GeneralDisorder

Likely they all have bulbs and are just burnt out. For the cluster you will have to pull it and access the bulbs from the back. The switches can be dissasembled and the bulbs replaced as well. Radio Shack has bulbs that will work. GD

You can use a hydro tranny by changing the fork so even that is not really an issue. Sometimes changing the rear diff is easier than finding a matching tranny. GD

Looking good and being functional are two different things. The wide offset is BAD. Got it? How many times do you need to hear this and from how many people before you stop questioning it? GD

Yes - ports on the top on the rear filter. GD

Yes - the flow is OUT of the driver's side head so that is where you would want the catch can - the flow is IN to the passenger side valve cover so it wouldn't do any good there. You may have a lot of blow-by - that is possible. Not typical of Subaru engines, but still possible. GD

You don't need one at all - if you setup the PCV as in that picture then it shouldn't be sucking oil into the intake. Mine never do....... GD

Front filter (vapor seperator) or rear (actual filter)? GD

Just drop in a '95 or earlier 2.2 - complete engine. There is no advantage to using the 1.8 heads - they are identical (and crappy just like the 2.2 heads). You can use '96 through '98 engines as well if you change to a single port exhaust manifold. The best heads are the '97/'98 single-port heads - they have roller rockers with solid lifters and are good for a little performance boost. The single vs. dual port exhaust deal does not affect performance. GD

That's too wide and the offset is all wrong. You don't want those. But we have already told you that and apparently you don't listen. GD

I'm pretty sure that 21 is the *nominal* current load that the link carries. I think the larger rating is it's max - where it will blow after 15 seconds.... consider that the alt is only rated at 55 amps and there are two other links that need some of that juice..... GD

Don't do head-work to the '82 heads - they have smaller intake valves so will not flow as well. Get a set of '83+ large-valve heads. GD

Just get em as close as you can and then readjust after running it for a bit. Your lifters could be deflated from sitting, etc. Incidentally - the hydro's rob power. If you want performance swap the hydro lifters for solids (they are accesible from under the oil pan) and readjust to solid lifter clearances. GD

It all depends on the maintenance - with synthetic oil and excelent service history the EJ22 can run half a million miles. On the other hand it could be near the end of it's life - there's no way to tell without tearing down the engine. I just removed an EJ25D with 147k on it - the owners probably rarely changed the oil and it looks like maybe they just topped it off once in a while. It had the updated 4 layer head gaskets since before 90k but now at 147k the whole bottom end is completely shot and the inside of the engine looks like a BBQ gone wrong. GD

That's not always the case - the 25D is a gamble with blown head gaskets - this routinely results in bottom end failure down the line due to repeated overheating and not changing the engine oil. They are also more expensive to maintain - valve adjustments, timing belt kits, etc all add to the cost of ownership over the 2.2. An EJ22 with torque cams (less than $200) is a good comprimise. GD

Aluminium push-rods with steel caps are for solid lifter engines. Without pulling the oil pan and checking the actual lifters I'm not sure you will be able to verify hydro vs. solid if you think the push-rods were changed out. Sounds like it has some mismatched parts though - be that valve covers or push-rods I don't know. Valve adjustment is done with the valve unloaded. Pull both covers and then just proceed with each cylinder in sequence - leave your ratchet handle and socket on the crank so you can spin it as you go. That's how I do the EA81's - better than jumping back and forth and possibly miss something. GD

Pull axle and it's fine. That's what I do. Though I have driven quite a few miles on my welded diff (welded by me) with the axles in place and haven't broken the diff yet - sometimes after taking it off-road I'm too tired to care about pulling the axle . I've also snapped rear axle cups doing it too. GD

I think what they are trying to say is "use any sealant called for by the maker of the gasket". Which on the case of Subaru and the felpro gaskets - means use nothing. GD

I don't know of ANY Subaru gasket that requires additional application of sealant. They either use sealant or a gasket - never both. Though I do apply RTV to the old cork stuff as it keeps it from absorbing oil. GD

And you probably will be till one of the following happens: 1. Rear main shaft bearing failure 2. Syncro grinding/failure 3. Shift-shaft failure 4. Blown up from too much power. I love an MT myself - it's all I drive personally...... But reality sucks - the AT's are better tranny's. I've replaced tons of MT's. I've replaced exactly one 4EAT. They are hard to kill. One example of diff failure is not representative - I can show plenty of examples of MT failure and plenty more of AT's that just won't die. My '99 Forester has 242k on the original AT and it shifts great. And with paddle shifters, ability to change the torque bias with a control knob, superior AWD performance...... it's hard to not like them just a little bit. Hell the 2010 Forester in my family has manual mode.... GD

Just some info - I needed to go from EA82 PS lines to my EA81 rack. A1-Coupling in Tualitin soldered JIC fittings to the existing hard-lines on both sides and built me custom hoses for a perfect fit. Cost was less than $75 out the door. Beautiful work too. GD

Overall the AT's are excelent transmissions - better at AWD than the 5MT's and more reliable as well as capable of handling a lot of power. As with anything you need to check fluid levels and notice things like big oil slicks under the car . GD

That EJ22 Legacy is like the space shuttle compared to your EA82 - which is more like a horse and buggy. EA82's are total crap compared to the EJ series. Get the car, put the engine in your Loyale. That's a 45 HP uprgrade and better reliability. GD

Automatic's occasionally fail - but not the MT's. They have other problems but not the front diffs. GD

Stripped hub splines - improper axle installation and/or castle nut torque. GD

Short answer - no it will not. If the front diff were bad then the transmission would be shot internally and it likely wouldn't move at all. Probably a stripped hub or broken axle. Subaru front diffs do not die like that. GD