GeneralDisorder

If it's been sitting for a while the pump might fail to kick on. Though that's pretty rare with those. I'm assuming it's an SPFI/MPFI rotary style fuel pump? Hate to say it but the quickest way to figure this out is to check for power at the fuel pump connector while the test mode connectors are plugged in and the relay is cycling..... There is an intermittant connector set behind the passenger side kick-panel - but it's several very large connectors with many pins. And it wouldn't tell you if there's a problem with the wiring back at the pump, etc. I don't know where the fuel pump ground is connected but very likely it's connected to one of the harness ground "busses". If the pump didn't have a good ground then likely other things would be affected as Subaru tends to tie lots of grounds together within the harness. GD

Drain the gear oil and count the ring gear teeth. It's pretty simple with a flashlight..... GD

Agreed - it takes an almost imperceptible amount of play for these to starting doing really funny things. The jumping tach and power loss is a typical sign of impending doom. If there isn't any permanent damage to the reluctor or pickup then it can still be saved. GD

Yeah - that ball bearing just hanging around inside the cap is a bad sign. That part can be had from a used distributor though - those are a much less common failure than the bushings. GD

Yeah - Philbin Group - http://www.philbingroup.com/ You can also get the bushings and install them yourself. Though there might be some machine work that has to be done - not sure if the bushings are honed to the correct size after install or purchased that way. A small brake-cylinder hone could be used to finish hone some off-the-shelf oilite bushings. Probably be a couple bucks each from mcmasters and a 10 or 20 spot for a cheap brake hone. GD

EA81T's had mechanical fans off the water pump like the EA82. In fact it's probably a very simlar water pump to the EA81T. GD

The stock dome light is poorly designed. You can just leave the cover off or you can find a dome light assembly from a STD model hatchback that has the clear lens. They are rare though. GD

Why the need for 6 cylinders? There's plenty of H4's with as much or more power and the parts are cheaper plus they are easier to work on. Seems like a poor choice for a daily unless you are moving up in the world and don't mind dropping that kind of money. GD

The problem is the depth that it is driven in to. If you drive it too far you partially block the oil drain-back hole. This causes oil to pool at the seal and causes a leak in short order. It is also a large diameter seal - if it is not carefully driven to an even depth all the way around the seal runs on an oval-shaped shaft (cross-section of round shaft taken from a non-perpendicular angle) - this causes uneven lip pressure and damages them pretty quickly. Correct sized driver is a 3" ABS pipe coupler. I use a "drain clean out" and install a threaded cap in the end. GD

The EA81 radiators are brass tank units - a good radiator shop can clean that unit up, repair any leaks etc, and have it good as new for about $50. Worth it IMO. Less than half the cost of a new one. GD

When was the last time the plugs were gapped or replaced? Cap and rotor? GD

No. The Brat would have to be rewired as that is an 80/81 cluster. GD

Hope you didn't put that flow restrictor on the front O2....... Yeah that's way overkill and too much work. Spacer on the rear O2 is all you need. I've done half a dozen of them.~$5. Research fail...... GD

You can use either pulley. You may have to make the spacer a bit shorter to clear the threads with the single groove but it will work. I've used both. Initially I used the two-groove because it's what I had laying around that happened to fit. Since that time I've used both without problems. GD

It's both - there won't be enough threads to get the nut on and it ALSO doesn't line up. Cutting it down moves the pulley into alignment and also gives enough thread to hold it on with. Yes - it's basically an eyeball thing. Being a V-Belt it doesn't have to be perfect. This is not a swiss watch part. The most critical part is that the spacer be the same thicknes all the way around so the pulley doesn't wobble. When I did them by hand I would measure them in 6 or 8 places and mark where it was too high then take off more material with a draw file and the spacer held in a vice. These days I chuck them up in my lathe - run a dial indicator on it and then spin off the amount I want them shorter. GD

A new ignition switch is $32 from the dealer. Would be a lot simpler to just get one of those when you go for the permanent fix. I understand having to get to work, but don't leave it that way. GD

Most of the parts for the 4 speed are availible through the dealer. But I would caution you against rebuild one - it's not worth it when 5 speed D/R's bolt right up to the engine and are more reliable and easier to get. GD

The voltage regulator is EXTERNAL to the alternator up till 1982. GD

There were multiple setups for AC - some inboard and some outboard. You have the idea - swap your pulley over. You will have to make the spacer under your pulley smaller as pictured in my first post. GD

Not unless it's bad. You can easily check them against spec with a DMM. GD

Based on his previous posts and his Avatar he has an '83. GD

Go and buy a spot-weld drill. Then you center-punch the welds and it's got a spring loaded centering pin and a tiny little hole-saw on it..... Harbor Freight has them for like $4. *edit* Ok - no power tools......... hacksaw - one with a bow and another "keyhole" style. NEW blades. If you could get ahold of a cordless drill and a spot-weld cutter....... much easier. Otherwise a cordless sawzall and just lop the whole front off right in front of the strut towers. That's typically what I do at yards. GD

Check the screw in the distributor rotor first then check the timing belt - the passenger side one. Loyale's are fuel injected and it's very unlikely that it's got anything to do with the fuel system. Since it apparently has spark and tries to fire - coupled with the fact that it died while running..... it's a timing belt or a rotor screw..... or it's out of gas. GD

Don't ask the dealer for pricing if you are that cheap! $20 to $30 each is about what they go for. That's really not unreasonable considering what they are. GD

Yep - bad regulator. GD