GeneralDisorder

Yes that is a nice looking wagon. Almost makes me want to go find a pristene example...... almost. GD

You can't easily rejet a Hitachi - where would you get jets? It's not like these things are availible in the aftermarket..... You best bet is a Weber or (even better) fuel injection. GD

The struts very likely *are* availible - dealer only parts and you will not like the price. Likely several times more than you paid for the car. That is the Subaru equivelent of a "glass jaw" engine. It is imperitive that you KEEP IT COOL. They will not stand overheating. The best advice I can give you is to go to the DEALER and have them order EVERY SINGLE coolant hose on the car. Some are not easy to get to. They need to be replaced - it will not be fun but you need to do it. GD

Yes - it is 4WD. It doesn't really matter which distributor you have - I have an '86 4WD with a nippon distributor and coil - Subaru changed that stuff around frequently and on the EA82's (such as your's). There is not hard and fast rule about distributor brand and it's relation to 2WD/4WD on these. It is very likely their parts listings are wrong or incomplete. If you really want to know then take the VIN down to the dealership and find out from the source. Napa and Autozone are not authorities on the subject of Subaru's or the proclivities of their engineers (which can be strange at times). GD

Maybe - or maybe the parts listings are wrong. Chances are - if the brand of distributor matches the brand of coil - it's original. GD

Even if you use one of these? GD

You will have to block the EGR (no big deal), and rerout the heater core return pipe if you are using that (or block if you are not), but yes it should fit I think as long as the thermostat doesn't interfere with the distributor..... I think it will be ok though. The thermostat housing is similar to many other '80s units - I found one from a Mazda Protege that worked well for my lifted EA81 project and I know another guy that used one from a Mazda MPV 4 cylinder. Also the older Nissan pickups have outlets that fit and point straight up. There are other options if you don't mind going to 1.5" hose instead of 1.25" hose..... If I were doing what you are doing I would invest in a tubing bead roller and run the radiator via hard piping. You could even have the thermostat housing and water pump inlet modified to accept JIC fittings and run braided stainless hose to/from the hard tubing. Or go to like a LENZ type fitting. Those would be more robust off-road with some flex-line added to soak up vibration. GD

They are compatible. eulogious's car had one rail with a grey and a black in it (and seems to run fine that way). That's how we know. They also have the same resistance on the driver coil and through threads that I've read the claim is that the flow rate is the same also - thus the question - what the heck is the difference?? GD

How inexpensive was it? Best price I found locally was $65 GD

The rails and injectors will swap between the 90/91 auto/man as well as the 91 to 94 22T.... In fact the rails on the '92 to '94 will swap also but I beleive the injectors will not fit the older/turbo rail. People very often swap the 22T rails for 92 to 94 N/A rails in order to fit the newer WRX injectors, etc. GD

'99 Forester's have the Phase-II SOHC EJ25 - which will be harder to swap for the EJ22. I would be looking for a replacement EJ25 as they are pretty reliable - I have a '99 Forester that has 242k on the original engine..... GD

Yes - the pink tops are 22T injectors. They *for sure* flow significantly more than the other's. That much I know for certain but I don't know the differences in the black vs. grey. GD

Impreza OBS will be open on both ends. Standard AWD system. Nothing special. VLSD's, etc are on higher-end turbo models mostly. GD

The clutch fan is ONLY on AC equipped cars. The electric fan is ALWAYS the primary and is thermostatically controled. If you don't have/use AC, and your cooling system is working properly.... you don't need the clutch fan. Those who need more cooling can source an EA81 AC fan - they are electric and will fit where the clutch fan was located. GD

Small correction/education moment: the pressure line in question going to the switch (known as a "Form X" style switch) does not trip the switch - it's purpose is to "unload" the discharge pipe from the compressor head - there is a one-way check valve that keeps tank pressure from flowing back into the discharge pipeing from the receiver. The form-x releives the pressure in the discharge line so that when the compressor starts again it will not be starting under a load. Since this tube alternates between pressure and atmosphere - it is used to signal the auto-drain valve. Consequently - if you ever have a compressor of this style (the majority are now built this way) that refuses to start after running up to pressure, shutting down, and then dropping below the switch set-point.... you have a problem with the Form-X valve, or the check valve that's threaded into the tank ("tank check"). Used to see this all the time in our shop - customer's would bring them in and be totally baffeled about why the machine wouldn't start up after the pressure switch kicked it off. Pretty simple fix with some bits from grainger or mcmaster-carr, etc. I've got more than one compressor for free with some stupid problem like this that takes 10 minutes to fix and cost's $5. Right - compressor discharge temps are typically about 200 to 300 F. So it might have been too close to the discharge and even if it's a good bit away - if cycled on and off rapidly enough it will get hot. If that's the case then you need to switch to copper tubing. Which is no big deal really - you just use common copper refrigeration tubing. Easy to work with and uses similar fittings. I agree - and the addition of a y-strainer to keep the valve clean would further improve upon the design. You wouldn't beleive how many plugged auto-drains I've cleaned - even the $700 "robo-drains" that are completely loss-less (drains the water but keeps the air) - because people fail to provide adequate filtration for their drain system. Pretty sad when you see these engineers install a $700 robo-drain and don't bother to install a $7 y-strainer :-\. GD

Sounds like you are over-tightening the nylon tubing fittings. It doesn't take much for the ferrule to cut into the nylon and compromise it - either that or the tubing is located too near to a heat source such as the discharge line from the compressor or even the discharge line unloader tube going to the pressure switch - I'm assuming these machines are of the reed-valve variety with form-x style pressure switches that automatically relieve pressure from the discharge pipe when they reach operating pressure and shut down? This is a pretty simple little unit - though if it were me I would likely replace the tubing with clear nylon and also add a strainer before the auto-drain valve. That will prolong it's life immensely and I could easily see the chinese black nylon tubing being junk - still for the price it's hard to beat even with a few pipe fittings, some new tubing and a Y-strainer to trap rust and crud. Nothing beats a timed-drain, but then $99 isn't in everyone's budget for their compressor. But you should do *something* as draining it every morning is really not sufficient and if you make your system basically leak-free you can just leave the machine on all the time. My compressor is always on. Having water in your air tools is BAD. GD

Alloy vs. steel shouldn't even matter - the thread engagement is the same for both from what I've seen. GDC

6mm x 1.0. The factory nuts are "whiz-nuts" with a built in locking flange. Or you can just leave the fan off - non-AC models didn't have one so unless you will be useing the AC (many don't work so people just pull them off) then you don't need the compressor fan. GD

Any bearing house - 6207-2RS-C3. It's a sealed electric motor bearing - same thing. GD

Replace the solenoids with 33 Ohm, 5 watt ceramic resistors - either at the plugs for the solenoids or at the ECU itself. The ECU is just looking for a valid resistance from the solenoid's actuator coil. I do this all the time on my SPFI swaps. You can also just leave the solenoids connected as this will do the same thing but they are messy to look at and do tend to fail unlike the resistors - cleans things up, less likely to fail, and they cost about $1 each . GD

You are using oversized 1600 pistons? You should be using EA82 SPFI pistons. The compression increase is better. Boreing it is a bad idea - the cast-in cylinder liners can spin in the case if it's not properly bored and most machine shops do not have a bore plate for these. Take .020" off the heads, and some off the block - that will also increase compression. Accell coils are junk - use the stock coil or one of the non-mexico MSD's etc. 2WD distributors don't have any benefits. The advance curve is the same. And the module's are more expensive and they suffer from more rapid bushing wear. You should do the SPFI conversion instead of a Weber. Use MegaSquirt for the control system and you can likely push about 120 to 125 HP. GD

Go to the dealer - they are like $12, etc. GD

Just post in the wanted section here - somone will have a set. They don't typically go bad - the block threads are aluminium and a wire wheel will typically clean them up. I would just reuse them personally. Your local dealer can order them as well. GD

Yeah - I could be wrong on that 2.0 shimless comment. I didn't use wiki for anything - all that is from memory. I'll fix the EJ20 deal but I'm pretty sure the rest is accurate. At least that's been my experience anyway. GD

They look just fine to me. You have plenty of thread engagement if that is your concern - as to if these nuts are the proper one's for those rims - you will have to inspect the seat in the rim to know for sure. Being Subaru alloys I suspect they are just fine but it never hurts to double-check. GD