GeneralDisorder

I'll pull out the book and scan them for you tomorrow . GD

'99 Legacy L will be a phase-II EJ22 will it not? Either way - Piston slap gets quieter with increasing engine temp. Rod knocks get louder as the oil thins and typically they will knock under load and will have an audible "back rattle" when the throttle is snapped closed. At any rate thats not a real good price for something with an unidentified engine noise and freshly traded in with no maintenance, etc. What do you want to bet it's in need of it's 105k service? There's $1500 down the drain if he has Carr do it.....that puts the price (more realistically) around $5000 with that service and the array of other stuff it's probably going to need. He could do better. GD

I would say 4 to 6 hours - depending on how many shims you end up having to replace - a good number of them will just be a quick check with a feeler gauge - no adjustment needed (mostly the intake side never seems to need much done at all - they typically don't need re-shimming even after 210k). Others may require that a new shim be ordered if it's not on-hand. It neccesarily adds to the job when you have to stop, wait for parts to come in, and then proceed again. If you are not removing the timing belt set then it's just a matter of clearing some work-space around the valve covers, removeing them (plug wires too), and carefully checking each valve for proper clearance and adjusting where needed. Typically the ones needing adjustment are on the exhaust cam so are more easily accessed from under the car. It's really not that big of a deal - the worst part is actually getting to the valve covers, dealing with the spark plug boots, and removing the covers, etc. It's tight on the DOHC cars. I reccomend a valve adjust any time the engine is out of the car - clutch repair, oil seperator plate, head gaskets, etc - all of these are common enough on the EJ25D's that frankly it's rather odd to have to do the valve adjust with the engine in place since it's usually coming out for one thing or another . But it can be done and it's not that bad. GD

Fixed GD

I respectfully dissagree - the screwdriver is simply what *some* people have used in place of the Subaru valve adjustment tool - which DOES NOT require removing the cams or belts, etc. It is, however, $300 from SPX. It simply compresses the valve in place so that you can pop the shim out of the bucket. Obviously this doesn't work on shimless buckets but it DOES work just fine on the engines being discussed here. You use a large flat-blade screwdriver to compress the valve spring and bucket - the valve and bucket being the fulcrum and you use a convient spot on an un-machined portion of the cam. Many people have done this without any trouble. In place of buying a $300 tool that you may use twice in your lifetime or complete dissasembly of the cams, belts, etc it is an acceptable solution. Be careful of course - that goes without saying. But to call it "asinine" is not warranted - especially if you haven't tried it. GD

People do their own valve adjustment all the time - it's not talked about a lot on this forum but there are TONS of threads on it over on NASIOC (where a large percentage of owners have EJ20 and EJ25 DOHC turbo's). Many people do it with a large screwdriver used as leverage to compress the valve spring/bucket and pop the shim out. You take a feeler gauge and check the existing clearance - write that down. Then you pop out the shim, measure it with a mic. and order a new shim that's smaller to enlarge the clearance to spec. It's pretty simple and the shims are ~$6 each from the dealer. You are looking about about 4 hours and about $100 to $150 for some exhaust valve shims and the valve cover gaskets/grommets. This aint rocket science and I've seen what neglecting them will do - I wouldn't sugest waiting till you need a $1200 valve job or a head gasket replacement (especially if they have already been done!). This would be a mistake IMO. I would NOT assume a head gasket replacement means a valve adjust. Dealers very often don't even resurface the heads - let alone do a proper valve adjustment. Especially if the mileage doesn't indicate a need. Many folks open them up to find the clearances are fine at 105k - but don't bet on it because if they aren't you won't make it to 210k. You are only 20k miles short of where I've seen neglect of valve clearance go horribly wrong. Don't take the chance. BTW - you need to find a new shop - if your shop can't do a simple valve adjustment for you..... well that's pretty lame is all I can say. That's a pretty routine affair in the world of machines that I come from. Their price and labor estimate is pretty rediculous also. At that kind of labor rate you might as well just go to the dealer - you aren't saving much paying these jokers $90 an hour. Most dealers are right in the same price range. GD

Being you have an XT - there is a higher probability of wireing harness problems between the ECU and the engine bay - this is due to the ECU being in the trunk on that model vs. under the dash on all other models. People have found issues with the wireing harness factory crimp joints under the door sill trim, etc. Water can get in there and can cause corrosion of the wires and crimp joints - IIRC that typically results in a no spark situation. The thread I saw a few years back had pictures of the culprit connection which I beleive was located under the passenger side door sill/rocker trim. Perhaps grossgary will chime in with more info here - he has owned more XT's than probably any member on this site. Here's a site that details how to test a transistor (amplifier, or in igntion system terms they are called an "ignitor"). http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/tran.htm As you can see a resistance test is not the only thing used to verify that a transistor is functional - they are more like a diode than a resistor and will only conduct in one direction so you have to be mindful of the direction you test and to fully test them you need to switch them on and off..... But I think it more likely that you have wireing troubles. As far as ECU's - any XT4 ECU from one with the same type trasnmission will work - the numbers don't matter. GD

Yes - all the optical distributor systems are the same from '86 to '94. I know for a fact you can use any of the optical distributors and you should also be able to use the coil and bracket assembly from any '87 to '89 DL/GL with fuel injection and any '90 to '94 Loyale. The ECU itself is slightly different because yours is an MPFI system. But that ignition should be the same. GD

ALL Subaru EJ DOHC engines require valve adjustment. Subaru does not manufacture a DOHC system that uses any kind of hydraulic lash adjustment (that I have seen). The '96 OBW had an EJ22 and they were SOHC engines. Additionally - you WILL burn an exhaust valve if you let it go. I just did a valve job on a 97 OBW with a burned valve due to zero clearance on one of the #4 exhaust valves. Engine had it's original, factory head gaskets and had 169k on it. They missed the valve adjustment at 105k and it did not make it to #2. Before that I did a valve job on a SOHC EJ22 with solid lifters ('97 Legacy) that burned the same #4 exhaust valve at 199k. Also never had a valve adjustment. Again it did not make it to the #2 valve adjusment. IF YOU DONT ADJUST YOUR VALVES YOU WILL BE PAYING FOR A VALVE JOB. Trust me - you don't want to pay for that. On the DOHC engines it WILL be over $1000. The heads are very expensive to work on and run about $450 to $500 for machine work to rebuild them, repair the valve damage, and set them up with correct shims, etc. When the exhaust valves burn you lose compression in that cylinder - it will start small and work it's way (rapidly) up to a total misfire. The OBW I did ran like a 3 legged dog and had 60 psi in the #4. The EJ22 was much worse and had absolutely zero compression on the #4. You couldn't drive either of them really - very, very nasty idle and no power. GD

I wouldn't replace the flywheel - just have it surfaced ($40 or so typically). Exedy is typically a good clutch set but I always prefer dealer clutch parts due to many problems with aftermarkets of all brands - wrong parts, poor quality, fitment issues, etc, etc. I play it safe and hit the dealer parts counter if at all possible. Sometimes it's not due to financial concerns.... GD

Still sounds like a bad ignitor to me. ECU's on these almost never fail. I have never even seen it. What do you mean they didn't run that style long?!? They ran it from '86 to '94 - that's 8 years. And they are dead reliable systems - ignitor failure and CTS failure are about the only things you see and even those are rare. Just pickup a used coil bracket with the ignitor and try it. Even if it does turn out to be the ECU - they are common and cheap since they never fail. People are always ready to blame the ECU for stuff - they just don't really fail. I highly doubt that's your problem. GD

Only the front one is a converter. The other is a hollow resonator. GD

Sounds like there's no problem with it to me. You are not in 2nd if it's running at 3k at 45 MPH. And these don't have locking torque converters or a 4th gears so...... sounds like it's just fine. Take care of it and flush the tranny every 30k miles. It will help it live longer. GD

I would imagine that it's reading the knock sensor output and not seeing the pulse from it at the appointed time of ignition - the ECU is programmed to ignore knock sensor signals that are a direct result of cylinder combustion - but what people don't realize is that the knock sensor plays a "tune" that is sort of..... electronic music for the ECU. If the ECU sees a note being played where it shouldn't then it can detect a detonation or "knock" and adjust the timing appropriately, but the correlary to this is that if the ECU *does not* see a signal when the spark plug fires or that signal is different than expected it determines there is a misfire at the cylinder it just triggered. Also - NEVER go by the marks on the belt. They can be wrong - ALWAYS use the timing marks on the cams and the belt covers. I just ignore the belt marks if they have them. Many of the belts I have bought don't even have them - which is just fine with me. GD

Heh - following instructions is for people still in the Military. I ETS'd a long time ago and I do as I please! That's why I run my own business - I don't play well with other's. Sometimes better to ask forgiveness than permission - hell the thing is broken anyway so worst that happens is it's still broken and you shrug your shoulders when the repair guys comes out and say "no clue buddy!". . The first mistake you made was persueing the conversation after the first sentance - You: "what can you tell me about that big old heater up there.... can I use it?" Landlord: "It's broken.....". You: "Ah - I see. Thanks for the warning - I'll be sure not to turn it on." That's where I end the conversation. Because any further and I'm asking permission instead of forgiveness. Commecial "garden" hose is great for temp hookups with water. When she lets you know that a repair guy will be out you just coil the hose up in the corner . GD

If you wanted to do it you could just use an EJ22T ECU, add the boost control solenoids and MAP sensor, turbo MAF, as well as the turbo injectors (pink top) etc. Then you just drop the boost a little lower than what the ECU runs it at. I've heard of them handling 5 or 6 psi for many years and although that doesn't sound like a lot - at 9.5:1 compression ratio it IS a lot. Supposedly about 200 HP or so with a ton of low-end torque due to the high compression ratio. GD

We are going to need more than that - compression test? Check that the injectors are fireing? Good spark on all cylinders? Has the engine had a valve adjustment at the required 105k interval? GD

Subaru's STi division dates back to the mid 90's. Their rally history dates all the way back to the '80s - even to the early '80s with the EA81's. GD

Think about it - that thing supplies hot water as well as heat! - open that baby up and figure yourself a way to get at the hot side of the water - plumb THAT to the pressure washer instead of the cold supply and you have yourself a steam cleaner! I had to replace the hot water heater in my house (located in my garage) and so instead of a new tank model I "upgraded" to a whole-house insta-hot system. It makes continuous 140* F hot water. When I did the plumbing I included a hose bib for my pressure washer and now I have a 140* F pressure washer. It's not quite as hot as a real steam cleaner but it makes a HUGE difference on a greasy engine bay. The hot water makes the grease and grime just melt away. I don't even use soap or degreasing chemicals anymore. Hot water is cheaper. GD

You need an auto-drain. Here's a cheap solution: http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html Or you can do an auto drain with a timer (I have one similar to this): http://cgi.ebay.com/AIR-COMPRESSOR-ELECTRONIC-AUTO-CONDENSATE-TANK-DRAIN-/280535098804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415131e5b4 This way you don't have to drain it every morning and it keeps your tank water free any time the machine is on. You definitely need some filtration, and a regulator (I don't see one in that picture), and when you start painting you will want at least a refrigerated air dryer. An air tool inline oiler isn't a bad idea on the hoses you use for air tools. Keep seperate hoses for painting. I was a compressed air and vacuum pump tech for a while so if you need advice building out your air system just let me know. GD

I agree - use the adhesive goo (butyl rubber if I'm not mistaken) - that's what Subaru uses on the Legacy's and up. Makes them a BASTARD to remove but seals real nice. This stuff (which is a continuous roll unlike the strips that Hatsub listed above): http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=butyl+rubber+glass&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&prmd=ivs&resnum=3&biw=1736&bih=775&wrapid=tlif12898383797921&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=14561228223044447659&ei=WF_hTLbvGYOWsgP3s9m3Cg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CG8Q8wIwBQ# Which I've even used to seal "glue-in" windsheilds..... it's GOOD stuff. BTW - Butyl Rubber is used in the manufacture of chewing gum..... so you are quite literally sticking your lights on with gum. GD

Do you have spark on those cylinders? If so do you have fuel (injectors ticking)? If you have both of those run a compression test. If it's low then you probably have the belt on wrong. GD

Yeah - that's bordering on criminal. $250 for a clutch kit and about 4 to 6 hours labor. I do those all the time for $500 - and yes I'm replacing everything including the seperator plate and rear main if needed. Maybe a bit more if the clutch MC or slave or hose needs replaced.... typically not a problem but in your case it's hard to tell. Still they are ~$1000 out of line - that's freakin orbital pricing. I wonder if they just don't want the job because they aren't familair with Subaru's and are hoping you take it somewhere else. GD

Run a new water line. Wouldn't take much. Either that or rent a concrete saw and go to town! Or you could supply it with water some other way. Doesn't it just circulate water inside it's heat exchanger? I would imagine the supply is just for topping it off or filling it after draining? I have never messed with one of those so I could be totally wrong. But that seems like a right proper heater and I would make it do *something* for me GD

Curious - why don't you fix that big overhead heater up there - that looks like it could blow you right out of the shop ..... Like maybe it could get the temp up to ~70 F in less than a day and a half unlike that little propane candle you are standing over would take . Just a thought - I like fixing crap like that. Besides it looks like a monster and it looks fun to play with. I bet you could incinerate waste oil with that beastie..... GD