GeneralDisorder

I completely understand - if you can rebuild them and have no problem with the maintenance needs of them then they are *ok* transmissions - in the scheme of things they are a lot better than most american and a lot of other Japanese transmissions. 200k is not unusual to see on one. I just think that putting in a used one (especially into a Brat which will devalue it) is a mistake. A Brat that is already a manual should be left a manual. What people do to the other body styles is not as much of a concern because they are (basically) worthless except as transportation. With excelent condtion gen 2 Brat's commanding up near $10k now it seems an unwise move. GD

Yep - that's a far better machine than the Infinity. The EJ22T is an awesome engine - known to handle upwards of 800 HP in the right hands . GD

Ah yes - I've seen that Brat. It's a nice little unit. Bring it by sometime and we can have a look at things. Send me a PM, etc GD

I don't think the wheelbase difference of a gen 1 is enough different from a gen 2 to counter the difference in the lenght of the 4 speed vs. 5 speed - that's quite a bit of difference..... GD

Yes - just have it shortened - you need a 3.9 rear end for the D/R 5 speed - just make sure that the pinion flange on the rear diff matches the flange on the u-joint yoke of the drive shaft - should bolt right up once you have a new section of tube welded in and balanced. Strange that it's too long..... if it's the original 4 speed shaft it should be too short.... that's the usual situation - unless you are talking about the 5 speed's two-peice unit? Don't use that one - use the Brat's drive shaft and have it lengthened. GD

They are self-diagnostic for "codes" via the test connectors in the harness - but there is also a software program that can interface with the ECU via the Subaru Select Monitor port on the OBD-I cars - check over on www.legacycentral.org for a current address to the download page for it. You need to make a special serial port adaptor cable (using a Metra radio harness adaptor of all things ), and then run the software on a laptop, etc to read the real-time report data from the ECU. GD

Qman has a good point - you might want to at least get premium when you are at the pump next time if you plan to put it off for a while. That will at least make it a bit harder for you to get into a serious detonation scenario. GD

That is very nice! So what's the plan with it? Straight restore with a lift? GD

Subaru automatic transmissions of the vintage being discussed here were made by JATCO which is now a subsidiary of Nissan. The 4EAT was built by Subaru but based on a JATCO design. I highly doubt that anything used by Nissan was actually built by Subaru - most likely it was a Jatco transmission and the Subaru one's just look similar since they were all based on similar designs.... *edit* - as found on Wikipedia: "The Ford Motor Company also uses a transmission on some Ford, Kia Motors, Mercury, and Mazda products called the F-4EAT, which shares some similarities with the Subaru, since they are both manufactured by Jatco. The Nissan Pathfinder has also used this transmission in the past with an external transfer case attached." Made by Jatco - and not in any way compatible with a Subaru - most especially it would not share a compatible bell-housing. GD

You don't need it - just pitch it. Cap the lines on the EJ. GD

Yes - those are EA82 check connectors. Just leave them. Might come in handy for tracing wiring one day. I never remove the check connectors on my FI installs. I did that a few times back on some of my early installs and it was a bad move. The giveaway is that they are right next to the test and read connectors and are the same length. That is the hallmark of the check connectors. That and I recognize them..... GD

Turned out pretty good! Amazing those were just chilling in my shed of wonders eh? Glad they found a worthy home. GD

It's not the functionality that's the problem - when they *work* they are fine. It's when they *stop* working that the problems start. And this tends to be somewhere before 200k miles - often quite a bit before. They have a bad tendacy to lose all their forward gears (only work in reverse) or to develop a problem where the governor drive gear eats the governor driven gear - resulting it repeated destruction of governors. This was so common a few years back (before they were all crushed ) that we had a special term for this behavior - we called it "apple cored governor syndrome". :-\ These days the 3AT 4WD trannys are getting scarce because they have simply all failed and been crushed..... but even though it's a Subaru part you won't see me losing much sleep over the loss of the 3AT . The 4EAT is an awesome transmission by comparison but as I mentioned it is not suited to an install in anything that's not also fuel injected. GD

The 3AT (3 speed automatic) that would be the obvious choice (since Brat's indeed came stock with these in automatic config) is a big pile of crap. That's one good reason not to. The transmission tunnel sheet metal is physically different and larger on automatics so either the Brat would have to be lifted or have the tunnel beat out or modified to clear the auto..... You would need: 1. Flexplate and torque converter 2. Transmission 3. Rear driveline 4. Rear differential 5. Transmission x-member and front suspension radius rod plates 6. Pedal assembly 7. Shifter assembly and all interior consoles 8. Vacuum system for the modulator..... I'm probably forgetting some stuff since as Ed mentioned this is not a common swap - people go the other way because the automatic's are junk and tend to die. The later 4EAT is electronic and won't work on a car that doesn't have fuel injection as the TCU requires signals from some of the FI sensors like the TPS. Most of those parts other than the tranny and rear diff would need to come from a 4WD automatic EA81 - 81 to 84 wagon/sedan/coupe or 81 to 87 Brat or 81 to 89 Hatchback..... the tranny and diff could come from any 3AT 4WD car including the EA82's made till '94. GD

An '85 Brat does not have a 5 speed stock - never happened. It would be a 4 speed if anything. Or it's already been swapped. Automatic tranny swap would be a nightmare and would ruin the collectible value of the Brat. No one wants an auto in them. Put in a 5 speed D/R - you won't regret that upgrade. GD

I agree - and the fact that you lost spark, had it come back, and then lost it again would tend to rule out timing belt breakage. Thus why I didn't mention that. But easy enough to verify that the driver's side cam is turning when you crank it. GD

Could still be exhaust back-pressure too - that would cause blow-by under heavy load and loss of power, etc. GD

You can trace which pin on the ECU is for the read memory function - just go to my SPFI conversion page and download the PDF factory service manual at the bottom - it has the ECU pin-out for both SPFI and MPFI (I think). The pin is one half of the connector pair - the other half is just a ground wire. You can make a new pair of connectors by just crimping some male/female spades on - one to the ECU read memory pin and another to a ground wire with a ring terminal on the other end and bolted to a conveient ground under the dash. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

EA series wheel bearings are standard 6207's (2 per side) availible at any bearing house for about $5 to $10 each. You can get 6207-2RS bearings and have double-sealed wheel bearing assemblies. The seals are about $6 each from most auto parts stores. If you drift out the old bearings - using them to push out the seals - you can usually clean the seals and reinstall unless they are damaged. Typically they are just dirty. If they are still soft and not nicked or damaged - just put them back in. Especially if you use 2RS sealed/pre-greased bearings. GD

It should bolt right in to any of the EA81 body cars - 80 through 83.5 when they switched to the newer pedal. Though if you have a top-mount starter tranny..... you will have issues because the EA81 cables are longer than the EA71 top-mount starter cables. Might not work if you still have the old EA71 and tranny in there...... but a new dealer cable for your '80 pedal assembly will still be much better than the aftermarket. And if you have a *good* welder you can probably reinforce the '80 pedal assembly so it won't fail again. GD

I would get a new cable from the dealer (about $25) and a used pedal assembly from an '84 or newer EA81 - they have an improved cable mount (you have to buy an '84 cable to match). That will solve your problems with the pedal assembly cracking and having to be welded, and your cable length problems as well (dealer cables are much better). Don't forget the cable goes under the steering shaft AND the heater core hoses. GD

Yeah - the carbon can retain heat and cause pre-detonation if there is a lot of it built up in the chambers. You know they made a kit for that right-hand sweeping turn issue right? GD

Stock header (y-pipe), 2" out, straight through glass-pack on the end. GD

That is the ignition amplifier - they are REALLY expensive from the dealer and it's pretty rare to see one fail (I've seen many factory units that work after 250k miles). Your best bet is a used one - sounds very lilkely that this is the problem. GD

Check for an exhaust system blockage - perhaps the catalytic converter has failed or is plugged up. Seems like you have a lot of back-pressure under load - that would cause blow-by and lack of power. Also make sure all the breather hoses are clean and clear as well as the ports in the valve covers, etc. The critical one is the small 1/4" ID hose that shoots off from the driver's side breather line - that is the vacuum break for the system and prevents it from creating too much suction in the PCV system. The ticking could be pinging from the increased cylinder pressure of the exhaust blockage or it could be the timing is advanced too far..... You have a few things to check before you call the engine a lemon. Definitely sounds like there's a problem but I wouldn't call it a boat anchor just yet. GD