GeneralDisorder

Try here: www.car-part.com I have bought a numer of engines and trannys from the yards that list on there - all excelent deals. GD

Fixed . GD

Upper is the main - pinion drive shaft is the lower. Noisy 5 speed's are usually a result of main shaft rear bearing failure. Typically cheaper just to find a used one - the parts will run more than a good used tranny with 100k on it. GD

You just need a new cable it sounds like. You have to use the cable that matches the pedal assembly - EA82 cables will not work but that's ok because the EA81 cables work great with the 5 speed D/R. I have use them on all the swaps I've done without any issues. A new cable is like $20 at the dealer - don't get an aftermarket clutch cable as they are junk. Make SURE you verify which cable you need - 80 to 83.5 uses one style, 83.5 to 89 (EA81's) use another style. The difference is at the pedal end and how the cable affixes to the pedal assembly. GD

Huh - we didn't do a thing to the head gaskets with the EJ25D and EJ22E heads. They looked close enough and it's running just fine on an EA81 radiator with 1-1/4" inlet/outlet . GD

Delta Camshaft in Tacoma WA. As for the retune - once the cams are installed check over on NASIOC to see who does dyno tune's in your area. They are getting pretty cheap - best to have it professionally done on your car. Not easily accomplished without expensive tools and a dyno. GD

EJ22's are simple - all marks at 12-o-clock. But you found that out it looks like. GD

Intake and exhaust will not help enough to warrant the cost or risk (with the intake) of changing them. They are not restrictive enough to matter on your engine. You might get 5 HP at 5000 RPM - not worth the trouble or expense. If you want power, the cheapest solution is to change your cams and retune the ECU. Beyond that you are looking at a LOT of money to do some serious head work. GD

Subaru's that smoke are pretty rare. A little on startup or when taking off after idling for a bit is usually valve stem seals. If it smokes like a chimney then just walk - it's been abused. GD

I would say something is up with the strut then - sounds like one side is not the right part. GD

I don't have a lift yet - but that's in the works. I'm going to put in a pit and a 24" lift (don't have the height for a full size). Frankly though - the only time I would use it would be for tranny swaps and those are pretty rare on Subaru's. It will come in handy when working on other brands - fortunately I mostly stick with Subaru's as I'm "known" in that community and there are tons of them here. GD

I also have the advantage that I set my own hours, and I buy/sell cars on the side in my spare time that I make more per-hour on than the actual labor of working on someone else's car - if I worked a 9 to 5 in a shop I wouldn't have the time or motivation for that. In fact working on other people's cars is sometimes secondary to flipping cars for profit - but it bring me customers that often buy a car from me later or send friends and relatives to me when they need one, etc. GD

Yep - I charge less than that for labor. But remember I'm a one-man show working from my home garage. So is Shawn I beleive. I charge around $35 to $40 an hour depending on if it's a subaru/board member/other brand car/etc. Everyone gets a good deal - I wouldn't make that much working for a shop and the customer would pay more as well. Plus it's more personalized and I think I provide a better quality of work than most shops and even the dealer in a lot of cases - often dealer's don't even resurface heads for head gasket jobs, etc . And the fact that the overall cost of the job is lower allows me to replace more old parts than other shops and still have a reasonable price for the customer - that adds value as well. New head gaskets with an old water pump and timiing belt due to the cost of the job being high and the customer not being able to afford those parts is a diservice IMO. I don't live in a Rural area - Portland is not Chicago, but it's still pretty freakin big. GD

I do them for $1000 out the door easily. And possibly a bit less on the SOHC engines. Everyone wins - the owner gets a good deal and I (or Shawn in this case) makes a nice bit of money for a weekend of work. A good mechanic will have machine shops that he uses - and I'm sure Shawn has plenty of resources to tackle the job without the OP needing to find a machine shop for him. GD

Subaru offers all the parts, but not a "kit" per-se. You would have to order the individual parts. A good source for aftermarket is www.rockauto.com. For gaskets just go to the dealer as aftermarket are inferior - for internal parts - Sealed Power (Fel-Pro) has been fine for the builds I've done. Rebuilding them is not typically neccesary in the usual sense of the word. The short blocks are very robust so it's usually just heads and such that have to be rebuilt - which doesn't usually involve any parts outside what the machine shop sources for valves, seats, and stem seals. Then gaskets and what not - which are best purchased at the dealer except for the heads gaskets - most of us use the Fel-Pro perma-torque head gaskets for the EA's because they don't require a retorque procedure. Rebuilding a short-block on an EA (unless you are building a high-output EA81 or something) is typically a losing proposition - the parts and machine work will run more than a good running car that has 150k left in it. GD

Nissan 200 SX calipers will bolt up the same but have an integral parking brake as well. Some have used these to convert to a rear parking brake. Actually kind of a neat upgrade. The backing plate, caliper, and hub are the important parts - I would imagine you can buy the disc locally over there? If no one else has a set, I can find you some I'm sure. Lots of cars in the yards here. Usually runs about $150 to $175 for the parts and my time to pull them. Someone else may have them for less off a parts car, etc, while I would have to buy them from a local yard so you may find a better deal. But I have no problem finding you some and shipping them. Maybe we could work out a trade - I want an EJ carb manifold with integrated coolant cross-over.... GD

I doubt very much you will find any sort of clog in the nozzle. Correct terminology is key when we talk about this - that's a nozzle not a jet. Not trying to be an rump roast but we *have* to agree on the terms being used or there really is no communication with something this detailed and complex. Much more likely there is a problem with the carb top gasket partially blocking a passage, or some gunk in one of the air bleeds or main jet (bottom of the float bowl). It does sound like there's a clog somewhere or you have a vacuum leak or something. Remember that carbs are operated by pressure differential created by the airflow into the engine - thus a problem with that airflow will affect how the fuel and air flow through the carb and can show up as poor spray patterns, etc - due not to the carb itself but to some other problem with the intake tract. GD

Yes you will need to tap it - just make sure you tap it straight and true. Length should be the same as the threads on the plug. GD

There are different types of nozzles based on that picture and what I saw in the one I looked at ('84 model). Some have two that are like the secondary in that pic (cast nozzle - that's how the '84 is), and some are a brass tube that's inserted into the venturi and has a slot cut into the bottom of it. So what are you seeing in yours that's troubling to you? The fuel should be a spray like from an aerated faucet. Should be nice and even. GD

Yep - Heli-coil time. Just do you best to avoid getting chips and such into the hole. Don't be surprised if you miss a few - don't worry about it. Aluminium will just burn away in short order or be blown out the exhaust valve. You'll do fine. GD

I don't think you are seeing what you think you are seeing. The only copper tube in the primary of the Hitachi's (I just looked) is the accelerator pump nozzle and that is cut at a steep angle so it should still not be blocked. And in any case that would only result in a flat spot under rapid throttle opening - which could be described as a hessitation. But it would do nothing to the idle and if you open the throttle slowely it would not produce a hessitation. Can you get a video of what you are seeing? Or at least pics? It's hard to do this from a keyboard. The Hitachi carbs are notoriously hard for people to rebuild correctly the first time around. It took me half a dozen tries before I got to where I could rebuild one and make it run in an acceptable (to my standards) way. I can rebuild your's for a reasonable fee but it's usually more cost-effective to just upgrade them to a Weber. That's what I reccomend. GD

It it were me - I would remove the cam caps (keep them in order), lube the cam journals, rockers, and lifters with assembly lube (I use Redline assembly lube), and then retorque the cam caps. That's what I do on the heads I get back from the machine shop. Then you will want to clean the head gasket mating surface with acetone or lacquer thinner (my preference) to insure it is 100% oil free (same with the block). Obviously anti-seize your plugs when you install them. After installation I would dump about 1/2 of a quart of the new oil over the cam and rockers, etc. Then install the valve cover and fill normally. Otherwise it looks good and there's not much to do there! GD

Yep - paint is rediculous! I got a QUART of single stage mixed for a hood and fender match on a '91 Legacy - over $80 for a quart of Dupont Centari mixed to match the original semi-metallic (most all Subaru paint has some metallic in it). That's not even including the reducer. GD

Any way you can - break the covers usually. That's a problem with those and one reason why most of us run them without covers. GD

Every engine seems to be a little different - thus why Subaru says to check them at 105k. Sometimes you get an exhaust valve that wears quicker than the other's. I've seen it on 2.2's and 2.5's - H6's are less common but the design is the same on the bucket/shim valve system and the valves themselves aren't any different in design. Checking them is simple (once you remove the valve covers - which is a messy job being the H6 is so tight) - adjusting them is the hard part. The wear is on both the seat and the valve face. The stems don't stretch or anything like that. But they get tight and checking them is a LOT cheaper than dealing with a burned valve let me tell you - if you have to have a set of those heads rebuilt..... easily $600 for the machine work alone. GD