GeneralDisorder

When it refuses to start - does it crank and not run, or not crank at all? GD

Computer controlled carbs use PWM solenoids to control idle and cruise mixtures. O2 sensor, computer, feedback loop, etc. GD

Should be around 12 psi. The VF40 turbo on these is a common failure as the design of the turbo oil feed was very poor. Either the turbo is bad or your have a large boost leak. The turbo is incapable of making less than 7 psi as that is the pressure at which the wastegate opens. If you are making less than 7 psi you have a huge exhaust leak, a sizable boost leak, the turbo is bad, or the wastegate is jammed open or the puck is gone. The 05/06 LGT platform is one of the worst for reliability and longevity if not properly maintained - they have a LOT of compound problems that take a knowledgeable expert to overcome - there's a regimen of about $6500 worth of upgrades that are usually required to get one into the right shape for reliable safe performance. GD

Probably better off fabricating your own mounts. Not much available that's decent quality. With that kind of mileage and in mint condition - much better to sell it to some foolish collector than to keep it. Rob some fool of multiple thousands of $$$ and run away before they can renege on the deal. GD

6 wire unit is for feedback carb models and controls power to the electric choke. Blue module is for non CC carb. GD

Call John's Subaru in Gaston OR. (503) 985-7110 GD

I checked with Subaru and they are NLA. So you will have to find a used one. GD

They absolutely still have some parts for your year. You need to call a parts department that knows how to open up the paper parts manual and lookup the part number. GD

That's a hatchback. Not a wagon. Have you called Subaru for a replacement? GD

It's completely irrelevant. You can run either. Nothing bad is going to happen (unless you mix them). Subaru switched (to OAT coolant) because everyone else is switching - if anything the blue coolant eats the plastic radiators quicker (which you should change soon as it's beyond it's fail-by date - we have seen a huge rash of 11's with blown radiators due to the blue coolant softening the plastic). I would run the green, install a new radiator (and whatever component is leaking coolant), new OEM hoses, and call it a day. GD

The overflow reservoir does not get filled. It should be about 1/3 to 1/2 depending on system pressure. Head gaskets on that model leak oil, not coolant. It's really not a matter of if, but when they start leaking. Had you done your research before buying you would know that. The dealership is THE WORST place you can have the gaskets done. You can expect them to leak again in 20-30k. They use the wrong gasket and insufficient cleaning / surface prep. You are likely stuck with it, unless you are able to return it, or pay a proper Subaru specialist to do it right with the turbo model gaskets. GD

Never seen a bad valve stem seals on an EJ. We don't touch them generally. GD

I would just lap the valves (optional), resurface them, and put them back on. We do a LOT of head gaskets and block replacements and it's very rare that we "rebuild" a cylinder head. Usually only if it's got burnt valves, etc. GD

Ebay is a crapshoot - might last, but probably have issues. I can't do a long block rebuild for that price - not correctly with quality parts anyway. Wouldn't trust it and no one local to deal with so that's an absolute full stop IMO. The reman blocks DO come with all that included (I buy 2-3 a month). And they DO have a 3yr/36k warranty. That warranty is subject to the VIN being provided as AFAIK the warranty is available to anyone the dealer wants to offer it to - be that their own service department, an independent shop (such as myself), or an individual. I can ABSOLUTELY tell you that I have warrantied out reman parts through my dealer...... they have ZERO problems with us doing that (I buy something like $75,000 - $100,000 in parts from them annually). It's VERY rare and I can only think of maybe half a dozen in 10 years. Never a short block, but other reman parts. They DO require the VIN and that the part number matches to that VIN for a warranty claim. So it depends on your dealer. Some will offer you the warranty, and some might not. And it depends on your relationship with said dealer. I buy a huge volume and it's very much in their interest to trust my judgement since that teensy warranty claim is nothing compared to my business volume. GD

257 will lower the compression and isn't going to be useful for a non turbo application. It's additional strength will never be used. The places it is stronger are never failure points on the NA engines. The reman block is a different part number. It comes with oil and water pumps, pan and pickup installed, etc. They are around $2350 and have three times the warranty of the new short blocks. I don't know the part number (there's a few for different years) but any dealer parts department should be able to look it up if you ask specifically for it. GD

Keep the engine for a spare/spare parts. Give the transmission the proper burial that it deserves - which is a sleeping bag filled with cinder blocks and dropped into the nearest river. 3AT's are hot garbo and I don't wish one on anyone - especially one with problems. GD

Better option is the Subaru reman short block - 3yr / 36k warranty. GD

Too many possibilities. Either take it to a competent shop for a diagnostic or download the service manual and start testing. Obviously check your fuses. No one here is going to be able to do any of that for you. Too many control modules on a '17. GD

The Sparco's are heavy too. People don't care. The K02's have good sidewalls which is more important than weight if you are going to bounce around off rocks. Though most people never go over anything larger than a speed bump taking little Johnny to school. GD

You don't time a Subaru at TDC. You time it off the timing marks. GD

Run it with all 4 wheels off the ground and listen to the bearings with a stethoscope. GD

Anything AWD in New England that is 17 years old is likely to have a lot of rot. And as cars go the Forester isn't bad on reliability, but it's far from the best - they had head gasket issues and I've seen plenty with failed engines since that era had really small oil pumps. If your friend wants something cheap that will be really hard to kill find him a Corolla from out west. GD

They don't have any manufacturing information on them. They are made in Japan and are likely out of production. You're not going to be able to source them from the manufacturer - that's wishful thinking. GD

2" ADF lift, Sparco Terra's, and BFGoodrich K02's.... that's pretty much what everyone does. Very original - same as everyone else.

You need a more advanced scan tool. Generic scan tools only talk to the ECM. GD