GeneralDisorder

Compression check - could be some seriously messed up valves, etc. Plugs will very seldom cause something like that. GD

CV's don't typically squeek - it's probably an axle nut/cone washer issue or a dry wheel bearing, etc. GD

Tensioners, as a rule, always come pre-compressed. I have not bought one that wasn't compressed though I haven't bought an XT6 one either.... GD

The full XT6 clutch kit is working fabulously behind the frankenmotor in renob123's Brat. 100% XT6 parts from the dealer is working very well and handling the power no problem. Do the Frankenmotor - you will like that. As noted there is nothing wrong with the EJ25D except the expensive-to-work-on heads, headgaskets and the potential that a used one has been overheated and comprimised the internals. Otherwise they are great engines and with 2.2 heads and torque cams on them they scream. GD

Special tools for Subaru's are not handled through the dealer anymore - they are handled by Kent-Moore.....bend over and grab your ankles! http://subaru.spx.com/ GD

Hhhmmm - maybe a case of it not neccesarily needing a wheel bearing job before he started..... but it *does* now! Good thing you are involved loosely here Spencer - I'm sure it's easier for you to solve this than bring it to me . GD

The timing belt job would be comming up at 105k for both of those vehicles. It's roughly a $1000 to $1500 job depending on what you have replaced (if you have it done at the dealer). There are members of this board that can and do provide shop services (I am one of them but I'm not local to you) and the rate is much more reasonable - somewhere in the $750 range I would guess. The parts are around $250 to $300 if you buy quality aftermarket, or somewhere around $800 if you buy them from Subaru and have everything replaced. The labor is about 4 to 6 hours typically. Other than that job (which would take the car to 210k without any further major scheduled service), it's just maintenance items and fluid changes, etc. Relatively minor stuff really. I would still go for the OBW - that is a cost that you will incur either way. And you have another easy 25k to put on the OBW before it would need to be done. Unless you drive a TON that's at least a year away for most people - possibly two years. GD

Heh - He's laughing at you, not with you kid. I got nothing against you personally or your father - but you need to change the way you think. Start questioning things a little more and start asking *why* a little more. Do some reading and some research before you stick your foot in your mouth - because if you don't someone like me is going to come along and ask questions you can't answer. Check out my Avatar. http://www.skeptic.com/ Maybe that will help you understand. GD

I don't know about specifically the XT6 pulley's but even on the EJ's most of the bearings are pretty easy to knock out with a punch and install a $6 bearing with a couple sockets and a hammer. Generally on stuff this size a press is uneccesary - the bearing fit's on these aren't that tight. I don't often *bother* doing this as the EJ pulley's are cheap from ebay etc. I just get the whole kit because my time is more valuable than saving $5 per pulley (and having to custom build a "kit" containing only the parts I couldn't rebuild ). But for the XT6 it might be worth it if the kit is truely $300 . Hell even the EJ25's are around $225 for everything. That's a high figure for an '80s car IMO. Rareity is not kind to parts pricing. GD

Yeah - usually it's just a couple tapered roller cups that are driven into the drum and then the bearing cone rides on the spindle - one inboard of the drum and one outboard. With a castle nut that's torqued lightly and then backed of a notch or three . I've done a few 2WD bearings along the way - not Legacy's but other stuff and it's all pretty similar. GD

They are very similar - engine and drivetrain, etc will be almost identical. Head gaskets should not be a big issue for them - all cars can and do have gasket failures and there's no gaurantee that you won't have a problem down the line. But the failure rate on the '05 and up stuff is low. Just remember - it's a *gasket* - it's not like the engine is a mechanical failure - it's just a seal between the cylinder and the head. They have a lifespan and it's usually somewhere around 200k to 250k miles depending on too many factors to list. This is true of most modern cars - you buy a ford or chevy and chances are you will be replaceing the head gaskets at some point around that same mileage. It comes down to what you want - the Legacy Outback (I'm assuming it's a Legacy Outback and not an Impreza OBS?) are nicer and higher-end cars. They typically have a nicer interior package, a LOT more leg room and cargo space. Personally I like the Legacy's better. But it's really up to you. GD

Here's a couple links with pictures that you can reference. And yes - post some pics of what you find. http://www.stemco.com/Portals/0/Reference/BearingFailurenew.pdf http://www.actionbearing.com/technical_toolbox.html The FWD rear knuckle is probably a very simple unit - from my experience with the EA's it's probably a drum-brake set on a fixed spindle with some roller bearing elements that are likely small and cheap. It would, at the very least, be much simpler and cheaper to replace the bearings on one. GD

I use a 4lb drilling hammer and a brass punch. You aren't going to get anywhere without some weight. If you want to move metal you need weight..... If you can bring the knuckle down to West Linn I'll install them for you - no charge. PM me if you need help. GD

I would first determine the cause of the bearing failure. It might not even be the car's fault. I understand your frustration but how much time have you spent changing hubs already? At this point time has already been wasted (not that it was your fault, etc - but wasted none-the-less), and now it's time to get serious and figure out what's actually going on. Haveing done a fair amount of failure analysis over the years I can say that it is often VERY helpful to see what the failure was caused by. I just did an EA front wheel bearing - similar situation - failed soon after replacement (it was a new bearing from a local bearing house). Upon inspection it was found that there was clear brinelling on the inner bearing race - the bearing was very likely dropped prior to installation or some hammering took place durring installation that damaged it. Being a Legacy it should have the tapered roller bearing assembly so it should be as simple as driving out the hub - at which point the outer race can be inspected without pulling it from the knuckle, and the inner races can be inspected easily - one haveing fallen out the rear and the other being still pressed onto the hub..... should only take a few minutes with a socket and a 4lb hammer to have that apart for inspection. GD

I'm assuming he wants a D/R tranny - which would only be from '81 to '89 actually. '79 is a whole different body style and '90 would be a Loyale which didn't come with D/R..... but I'm sure *you* know that already . GD

Yeah - spline rust on the EJ's - that happens and those can be a real chore. The dealer has a special pusher for that occasion. But he's here in the NW where rust isn't an issue and it looks like he's running an EA vehicle (judging by where the post was moved to and his avatar pic) and there's just no reason to use a press on the EA knuckles. The bearings drift right out with a brass punch. GD

I've never used a press on any Subaru wheel bearing. What year/model please? And this should not be in the "Meet 'n Greet" forum . GD

Do you have a failed one around that you can cut the bearing race open on and inspect for the type of failure that occured? An inspection of the bearing will tell you a lot. GD

D/R was in all 4WD, non-turbo, manual transmission GL's from 81 to 89. DL's were single range and '85 to '89 GL turbo's were also single range. GD

Should be fine and probably a good idea for -40* (). It's still an SAE 30 oil at operating temp - the 0w means it still flows at lower temps. For severe cold temps like that - I would DEFINITELY run full synthetic. It flows much better at low temps and will help with cold starting as well as prevent serious startup wear. You should also let the engine warm up for 10 minutes before driving it..... and invest the $35 at the dealer on a block heater for when you have access to power. GD

Where have you been getting these bearings from? Has there been problems with the axle shaft splines being rusted to the hub splines? Hammering on the axle shaft to free it from the hub splines would easily be enough to comprimise the bearing durring removal..... are *you* removing these or are they comming from a yard where some *non-english-speaking* "dissasembler" is pulling them for you? Do you still have any of the failed bearings around? Cut one open and inspect the damage - what kind of failure is occuring? Brinelling could indicate a failure from "hammering" on them durring removal or installation.... etc. Probably time to get real technical about this problem. Failure analysis is called for.... GD

It is clearly you who is ignorant. Here's why: 1. Expecting people to take any kind of reccomendation from you seriously is ignorant - you have no reputation here. 2. You speak of second-hand glowing reports of success with a product that you personally have not tried out - yet you defend it as if it's a religious tenant. 99% of the people on this earth share the same religion as their parents - why do you suppose that is? Yep - Ignorance. 3. You make ludicrous statements such as "all it does is lubricate". Yeah - so does KY and Astroglide - but I wouldn't expect you to know much of either of those . The properties of engine oils are a *little* more complex than that. Again - ignorance. 4. You seem to think you have agitated me in some way (or that I'm bloated!? .... how quaint - attacking my gender! Well done kid!). Nothing could be farther from the truth. I am simply protecting the members here by providing counter-point to your proselytizing. It's of little concern to me what *you* think - I'm not trying to change your opinion - merely to show everyone else how ignorant you are being. 5. You claim it's been tested, proven, etc. But where is the data? You claim something you cannot (evidently) prove to me yet you insist it's true. The mark of ignorance is strong - I ask for proof - yet nothing is given. It is like talking to a child (which I'm sure is not far off). GD

Use the injectors that match your ECU. Always.... unless you do a custom tune (not possible with that ECU) or are running some form of engine management. You will need to use the entire manifold from the '91 since the 95/96 manifold is OBD-II and will not be compatible with the '91 ECU. There might be some cross-over but safe bet is to stick with the '91 electrical components. GD

What "fuel system stuff"? That's like the easiest part - grandpa doesn't think you can handle some gasoline?!? You change some soft lines (to FI rated) and install a different pump - pretty much as simple as that. GD

How about you get not only the knuckle/hub from a donor but also the two links and the strut at the same time from the same car and see if there's any difference? This is pretty bizzare..... you sure it's not something to do with the environment in your shop or your transporting/removal technique of the used part?!? Did I mention this is really weird? GD