GeneralDisorder

I will try this with one of the neighborhood cats. Tell me - does it go: wrench, cat, human, or wrench, human, cat...... I am trying to envision how this works and unfortunately it either ends badly for the cat or badly for me...... GD

Not to mention there weren't even any EA82T's made past '90 And "GL-10" is a trim package - it's meaningless. There were GL-10's that were not turbo. For all intents and purposes around here you can call it and EA82T - because that's what it is. But GLoyale's questions still stands - what year *is* it? '85/'86 would be completely different from '87+ and '87 will be slightly different from '88/'89. If it's from an '85/'86...... RUN AWAY.... FAST! Those are super primitive and you don't want one. Pictures would help. And as always - you should be doing an EJ22 swap. This is going to end badly.... GD

You got anything but a pile of marking hype written by people with degree's in business? That old saying "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" applies perfectly here. If someone wants to render a USEFUL opinion, he/she should go to college, complete at least an engineering degree, and learn about the fundamentals of research and data collection - such as what constitutes valid conclusions, what constitutes unsubstantiated assumptions that can't be backed up with hard data, what constitutes statistically significant data versus random variation or coincidence, what constitutes real hard data versus unverified "impressions", what constitutes research bias and how to avoid it, etc. After completing such an education, he/she probably won't be thinking the same way anymore... but if he/she still wants to maintain the same opinion, then at least he/she can do so intelligently and may seek some hard data to back up their point of view. Science, at its essence, is a set of rules designed to force us to reason logically, to remove or minimize personal bias, inaccurate assumptions, and all the other things that the average person usually does wrong when trying to think about a problem. Most people simply aren't logical or rational to the degree that science demands, unless trained extensively to think that way... so incorrect conclusions are commonplace, often based on little or no evidence other than what that person wants to think is important. THAT is the essential problem behind many "debates" about subjects such as synthetic oils, oil additives, and everything else that falls into "repair in a bottle" type of discussion. Anecdotal "evidence" by untrained observers is, of course, completely useless and means nothing. You are telling people to put XYZ into their crankcase and have yet to show any evidence that this is in any way useful, while I am advocating the use of precisely what the ENGINEERS said to use in the first place. It is YOU who is untrained and completely biased due to the opinion of your father. I don't see him on this board with any evidence of anything at all nor do I see any actual real-world unbiased testing of this Power Punch stuff - neither here not on their own site. There's a video of some dude whipping some oil like he's making meringue . Sorry but that's snake-oil sales tactics at it's finest. As far as being an engineer - that's just a peice of paper that proves you can sit in a class and listen to somone else's opinions on how the world works. They can fill you with information - but they can't teach you to think for yourself. Information is nearly free - a library card and $20 in late fee's will get you just as much as any degree. Why should I listen to someone that can't spell, punctuate, write out a clear thought process, or come to his own conclusions without making a distinction between truth, opinion, and meaningless marketing hype..... and/or isn't interested in spending the time on this discussion to do any of those things? GD

It's probably due to the corrosion you guys have. I've never seen one leak here. All the copper washers I've had to replace have been on industrial equipment - not brake systems. I would imagine the copper doesn't mix well with the salt and unpainted castings very near to the road surface GD

I see. Good luck with that. Riddle me this Batman - if this stuff makes sunshine fly out of my rump roast then why isn't it already included in the oil additive packages of all the major engine oil suppliers or being reccomended by the manufacturer's of engines? Answer (in case you really are that dense): Because thousands of engineers with more time, money, and resources than you, your father, or his engineer pal put together (x100) have determined that it's either uneccesary or detrimental. Gamble with your own engine - telling people here to put bottles of "wrench in a can" in their engine is irresponsible. As far as flushing with ATF - I only reccomend that on the dirtiest, nastiest engines. And frankly it's usually probably a "too little, too late" type of deal. It's often better to just let it blow apart and replace it instead. But it makes people feel better, doesn't cause any damage running it a few minutes at idle under no load, and sometimes making people feel good about something is important. It usually comes out VERY black compared to how it went in and will often quiet lifters for a time. It is not a permanent fix - mostly it's a "feel good about cleaning my engine" type of deal. GD

It's a 3AT - they didn't make a 4EAT 2WD back in '87. In fact those didn't come out till the Legacy years and only in the EJ platform. 2WD EA's are always the 3AT. How skilled are you with a wrench? We used to have an article around the site here somewhere about the 3AT governor piston repair. Basically the governor is on the passenger side of the transmission under a bowl-shaped cover - you remove the cover and pull the governor out. Then you can remove the spring clips that hold the piston and spring into the valve body. It's a matter of cleaning up the edges of the piston with a small file or sharpening stone so the piston slides smoothly in it's bore..... GD

Power Punch? WTF is that? What qualifications does your dad have and has he ever worked on a Subaru or know anything about oil composition or lubrication properties? MMO, Rislone, etc are fine products - but in essence they are ATF or very close relatives of same with a much higher price tag. ATF is a high-quality SAE 10 oil. It's very high in detergents and is rated for high-pressure applications (gears). Anything that MMO, Seafoam, Rislone, etc will do - ATF will do just as well and considereably cheaper. If you a have a problem with oil delivery then FIX IT - check the oil pump (backing plate) and seal, replace worn out lifters, etc. Repair in a bottle is just going to cause problems. There should be nothing but OIL in your oil. An occasional ATF flush (run 20 to 30 minutes at idle with ATF) is alright to clean out some of the gunk that will just foul your new oil.....but otherwise just run straight, clean oil. All these additives that people talk about are just soaking up the money from your wallet. Nothing more. They will not effect a lasting, permanent repair. If the oil pump is ok (this should be checked first) then you can simply convert to solid lifters from a '97+ EJ22, etc. Then you don't have to bother with replacing lifters and the associated expense. GD

I've reused hundred (maybe thousands) of copper washers over the years (not just on brake systems). 99% of the time they are fine. Occasionally you have to replace one but it's generally the exception. GD

Really? Why is that Gary? I thought the EJ and XT6 outer's were virtually identical. But I haven't closely inspected them side-by-side. GD

You *are* useing the XT6 front lower control arms right? That's what gives the added length needed to use the longer axles.... GD

Engine cross-member (or modded) to clear the exhaust...... GD

Personally I like to use the EA81 flywheel in order to keep the timing marks correct and not have to mess with the bell-housing. I have had them resurfaced to .815" step height. Then the XT6 clutch parts (from the dealer as aftermarket don't seem to be anywhere close to correct). You can use everything for an XT6 if you have the step height reground. This setup has worked fine for me. GD

If it's an '82 or newer the only one's that came with the EA71 in the US are the "STD" model hatchbacks. Everything else made after '81 was an EA81 or EA82 by default. To the left of the distributor on the block is printed the "EA71" or "EA81" indentification. GD

I agree - the shop he took it to is clearly out to make him a "return customer" by only addressing what is wrong right now and not considering the whole situation. On the other hand - he did ask them to fix the leak and sometimes if you don't want to hear bad news you should just keep your head stuck in the sand..... what if they had determined it was the rear main or oil seperator plate?!? If you don't want a nice fat bill for something being repaired that you consider "minor" then you should probably just ignore it till it's not minor anymore - then it will be a "major price" for a "major repair" GD

Nice tip on the lateral link bolt. I will remember that. Just might be your issue eh Gary? You monkey-fisted it didn't you? GD

Sealing up the leaks with some seal-swelling additives isn't going to stop an exhaust valve from being burned in a few thousand miles because the valve adjustment was neglected - I just did a head rebuild on an EJ25D because of a burnt exhaust valve at 169k - that's only 30k away for him.... Valve adjustment = removing valve covers. At that point I would just install new valve cover gaskets and grommets . GD

I don't use a torque wrench on them either. The axle nut doesn't set the bearing preload so I don't see any reason to torque them. Is this using the 4WD rear knuckle assembly with just the outer axle joint installed into it or is it using a 2WD Legacy rear setup (which I've never even looked at before ). GD

Bad strut hammering them by bouncing a lot?!? Hard cornering? I just did one on a '97 SUS not long ago - first one on that car at 212k. He drives pretty hard and corners it pretty tight on a regular basis and has since he bought it at 80k. We put a used one on from the yard but that was only about two months ago.... GD

I emailed your dad a reply to his question on the issue so check with him - but also I will note for further discussion by board members here that being an '81 your's will have the external voltage regulator so it could be that and not the alt itself. GD

Most of us that are wheeling Subaru's are running the older body style (EA81's, etc) and they weight about 2000 to 2500 lbs depending on the setup. Obviously the focus is on small and lightweight anyway so it sounds like what you are working on would be similar to what most of us would like to have.... GD

I'm sure they are bucket/shim or shimless-bucket. I have not seen that Subaru has a hydrualic bucket on anything so it would seem that all their DOHC designs require a valve adjustment at 105k. I would guess yes - and it won't be cheap - especially if it's shimless-bucket and you have to replace all the exhaust buckets - $16 each or some such nonesense . GD

Why not just fix your power windows? It's not that hard - give them power and they should go up and down, etc. Get out a multi-meter and trace out your power supply. Have you checked the fuses? Power window relays are under the seats.... GD

$900 would be a little high around here - about $500 is all they are worth out here on the west coast. I have no idea what the value would be in WY... craigslist is usually a good reference. $500 with a bad wheel bearing and tranny on the way south would be a no-sale in my neck of the woods. $300 and you are talking my language.... It's worth about $50 more than it's scrap value to most people. They are very sweet little cars though and this one has some value to you since you previously owned it so it's your call.... Weight is about 2300 to 2500 lbs or so. You can tow it with a dolly just fine as long as it's not in 4WD when you do it . If you have at least a V6 truck you should be fine. I've towed them on dolly's with mini-vans before - as long as you have 150+ HP and enough brakes to stop the train you'll be ok. Tranny will probably keep chugging along without 4th for some time. The one in my hatch (same tranny) has about 235k on it and 3rd is nigh-impossible to find through all the grinding - I've been using 4th gear lo-range for several years. Still gets down the road. GD

It is probably not either of those - those do not produce cabin smells when they fail (and they fail often enough that we would know - plus the purge solenoid would throw a code). It is more likely to be something with your fuel filler neck area or the vapor lines that go to another "canister" vapor box thing that's behind some of the trim panels in the back of the car..... GD

20w50 is a bad choice - stick with an SAE 30 oil. Thicker oil like that is for engines with higher bearing pressures like diesels. It will not help with anything on a Subaru. The manual says 10w30 for a reason and that should not be deviated from for any reason EVER over the life of the car. That stuff will increase startup wear and you don't want that. I just did an exhaust valve job on a '97 OBW with the original head gaskets that never blew out. It currently has 169k on it. It's very possible that you have OEM head gaskets that are just now failing. Especially since the engine was replaced a long time ago and now has at least 90k on it. It could have been rebuilt using the old (flawed) head gaskets. It wouldn't surprise me at all. GD