GeneralDisorder

Feeler gauge and a wrench - pretty simple valve adjustment on those. You just set the clearance between the rocker and the valve stem (with the valve unloaded) and lock the adjuster with the jam nut. 8 thou on the intake and 10 on the exhaust. GD

Cool - when can you start? I'm in the garage the next three days for sure. Hopefully wrenching on an OBW if I can get my cylinder heads back from the machine shop black hole they fell into Otherwise it's cleaning and organizing and probably some cutting and welding on my new shop table . GD

And I can change EA front wheel bearings in my sleep.... drunk. Takes me about 1/2 hour per side.... give or take..... you have to be one with the force. You will learn. I will teach you. GD

Maybe we can work something out for a trade. You help me around the shop - you learn some stuff - and I'll get you setup with wheel bearings or axles or whatever. I need my shed reorganized What do you think? (yes I'm serious ). GD

Needle nose vice grips are invaluable for pinching off lines. You can pinch the line between two quarters if you don't want to mess with soft-grips or tape, etc. GD

'82 *should* have the bolt holes for the power steering brackets if it's the original engine. '82 was the first year it was offered and I've seen them stock with it. Personally I don't like them without the PS - off road is a pain in the rump roast without it. The wheel jerks too much. GD

And what makes you think there's a right-side-up to a sealed cartridge filter? It's designed to be installed exactly as you have done (as long as you followed the arrows on the filter for inlet and outlet). In other words it doesn't matter in the slightest. EA carb fuel pressure is 1.5 to 2.5 psi. GD

Yeah - I wouldn't worry about them. It looks worse than it really is. Clean it off with brake clean and monitor it. Rear main looks good. I see no reason to change that. GD

It changes the caster of the wheel. That changes the tendancy to return to center after turning.... or not. Power steering/4WD changes how the car handles so they have two settings for the strut top. GD

You realize this requires a custom adaptor plate and flywheel right? '87 tranny has no neutral switch..... GD

A Brat isn't going to have anything in the way of an ECU and not much in the way of wireing, etc. For anything newer (that's worth the effort) you would need to switch to fuel injection and yes an ECU and associated wireing, etc would have to be added. It's no small job. Alternatively you could build up the EA81 - you will have to tear the engine down to replace the cam and pistons (for higher comp.), and do some head work to open up the flow. 100 HP is easily done on your stock engine. You probably are looking at around $1000 to $1500 to build up the EA81. If you are into the swap idea you could get an EJ22 donor car - usually in the $500 range - then do some maintenance items, reseal, and get an adaptor plate and flywheel, etc. You are still looking at about $1000 to $1500 but you will get 135 HP for your trouble. GD

DOHC = Yes. SOHC = No. If it's a DOHC I urge you to also do a valve adjustment if one has never been done. And yes stem seals are not a bad idea and you might as well lap the valves while you are at it. GD

It would probably be around $50 to $100 for me to get you one from a yard depending on what they charge me, etc. I have to pull it to inspect the joints and I won't buy a questionable one so I might have to pull more than one..... Then just shipping which shouldn't be too bad as you say. GD

That's the dealer and Subaru corporate has no control over what they charge for their services. Unfortunately that's the way it is and if you have any complaints it will have to be taken up with the dealership's service department or management. The most SOA can do is sympathize with your complaint and possibly call the dealer on your behalf. GD

I could also get one but I'm farther. We almost never se failures like that here. Occasionaly. Also there's plenty of places around here that are familiar with installing the replacement u-joints for these. GD

Just don't put it in 4WD with the driveshaft out (obviously that wouldn't do anything anyway) since the rear output isn't spinning and there is no syncro system for the 4WD engagement - it won't slip into 4WD unless you are at a full stop. GD

EJ22T heads are no different from plain old EJ22E heads except they have smaller valves . They are a total joke of a head. They will raise the compression just like the NA EJ22 heads will. It's the pistons that change the comp. ratio not the heads on the 22T. The heads are worthless. Worse than worthless actually since EJ22E heads would be an improvement. Yes - the 2.35 stroker is a monster engine. But it's closed deck makes it difficult to keep cool under high power situations and with the advent of the 257 it's not really a popular block anymore. If you already have one (like me) then it's a nice starting point. But these days most people go with the 257 due to availibility, larger displacement, better cooling, and ability to handle basically just as much power. GD

Maybe more. The deal is..... the DOHC heads *could* be built up to flow better and easily outstrip the frankenmotor in performance. But the cost to do so is rediculous. The cost for a frankenmotor build with 22 heads for renob123's Brat was $700. It would have DOUBLED if he had used 2.5 heads. The cams are more expensive per-each and you need twice as many. It would be like $500 in cams. Then the port/polish work would be several hundred more. The goal of the frankenmotor is excelent performance for cheap. It accomplishes that. If you spend a little time gathering parts it's actually very little more expensive than a regular 2.2 and bolts right in place of one. It's a very sneaky and cheap power upgrade. Basically you take any EJ22/EJ18 car (swapped or otherwise), pull the engine for a head-gasket job, and sneak an EJ25 block in under the old heads. GD

I've often wondered if you could just carefully split the tone ring with a hacksaw and then bolt the two peices on and have it work. If you did it with a thin blade and made your cut's down in the valley between the sensor tabs It shouldn't comprimise the hall-effect sensor's function. The only reason I can come up with for wanting to do this is in the case where I want to use a non-ABS knuckle on an ABS car to avoid a wheel bearing job - used knucjle is $10 cheaper than the new bearing *and* less labor. Front's don't fail very often so it's not a concern to me to put on a used one most of the time. GD

12 AGW should be more than enough for most of what you are doing. The only notable exception is when wiring amps or dual battery's etc. Chart: http://www.affordable-solar.com/wire.charts.htm I would run a good 8 AGW from the batt to the junction block - that gives your junction about a 50A total capacity which ought to be more than enough since it's doubtful you are going to run all those circuits at once right? From there base your wire sizes on the chart for the circuit you are running. GD

Removal of the tone ring requires dissasembly of the wheel bearing (removal of the hub). This basically means you have to replace the wheel bearing as it will be comprimised durring removal. You would be better off just taking the whole knuckle. And yes - they should be the same though the sensor might be different. GD

I understand. Don's been in contact with me about a replacement vehicle down the line and I'm going to keep my eye out for something. I agree that fixing it enough to make it driveable again is not without merrit. I just don't think that fixing it *right* and keeping it long-term is a worthwhile goal. It will NEVER be the same again. It will always be a damaged unit. GD

GD

It's a car - it's a hunk of metal. Your family, your health, and your welfare are more important. This falls *at least* under the welfare catagory. Foolishly spending money on valueless material objects because you think they have "sentimental" value is bordering on a metal disorder. That's how people turn into hoarders. They feel that if they throw away the object they are somehow throwing away all the pleasant memories associated with that object. That's a sign of someone that needs to seek counseling..... I can honestly say it and I honestly mean it. That NEEDS a front clip. The whole driver's side crumple zone is trashed. I've had to put a front clip on one that was damaged far less than that. That's a diseased mentality. I'm sorry but it's an '80s japanese station wagon.... it's never going to be worth much and it's certainly not worth being needlessly poorer over - I would rather blow my money on a vaction with family. If it's a hobby - great. But you still have to budget for hobbies and you can't let them interfere with things like primary transportation, etc. And (at least for me) it would be nice if the hobby saved me money or netted me something I couldn't otherwise afford. That wagon meets none of the qual's IMO. GD

+1. I would totally do that. It will look like hammered $hit but it will get you around. An afternoon of pulling and hammering is worth it for wheels. Plus you might be able to sell it to someone after you do enough work to get it to hold headlight buckets straight, etc. Not for much, but someone will want a $500 turbo wagon that you have put all that effort into. GD