GeneralDisorder

It will accelerate faster and top out quicker. You will have to shift more quickly. Basically all the gears are shifted down to increase the RPM's in each gear. This puts the engine higher in the power band and means that the gear tops out faster. It means you'll need to shift more often. It's "sportier" for lack of a better word. But it does decrease the top speed that the car can reach (typically not an issue for american driver's as long as it can do 90 ). GD

No. GD

You cannot use non turbo heads - they are single port while the turbo's are dual port. The fuel/ignition system of the 86 and 87 are not compatible. They changed the entire system in 87 such that parts from 85/86 models are completely different and not compatible. The distributors are optical in '87 and up and mechanical/hall effect in 85/86. Basically nothing about those two years you have is compatible with regard to the FI/ignition systems. GD

You need to inspect all the data streams as you are trying to do in your other thread about cables/software, etc. It's obviously something that the ECU isn't detecting so you are going to have to check the data from the sensors yourself and determine the problem. GD

The only thing I've heard reccomended is the Trans-X that can sometimes help with torque bind. I wouldn't use anything but plain Dexron ATF myself. Some of the 4EAT's shift a little hard - just their nature I think. I've never seen that it's a sign of impending failure though. GD

Yes - the EJ automatic's (4EAT) are very reliable and with an occasional flush they will easily last the life of the car. They are more reliable than the 5 speed's. GD

Thanks for the experienced answer to that question. I may give this a chance on my wheeler - the big zip ties are now availible almost everywhere and they are super cheap. Good to know they last longer than I had thought they would and are strong enough to keep the boot on. GD

Straight back in the center of the firewall. It's the amplifier for the spark signal from the ECU. Definitely could be due for an O2 sensor at 95k. GD

I think the easiest way to use that chinese tester is to *assume* it's not very accurate but get some baseline readings from new batteries of similar size to what you typically test with it. That way you can get an idea of what the tester indicates for a good battery, and then from there decide if you can live with whatever percentage of "perfect" you read from subsequent battery tests. If you normally read 600 Amps and this one is 200..... I would probably consider a replacement...... We are talking about something that costs about as much as a cheap axle but can cause enormous amounts of frustration. Personally I have one of those rechargeable jump start boxes - the Harbor Frieght one that's $50. It has saved the day on many, many occasions and was well worth the price. Frankly one of the better products I've bought from there - it would be nice if it were more powerful but it pretty much does the job asked of it in the mild climate of the PNW. Probably wouldn't handle midwest and east coast winter jumps though..... I have a set of 4 AWG jumper cables my pop bought in the 70's for that type of work GD

Non turbo - pull engine. Turbo - pull tranny . GD

That's great - sounds like he's all set. You can file on the pins of the tool and make it fit into the snap ring hole's better. Just make sure you give it a profile that's slightly wider at the end than at the base of the pin so the tendacy is for the clip to slide farther up the pin rather than off the end. It's possible to get the snap-ring's off with a couple screwdriver's and some patience - which is probably what I would have done to avoid buying an ill-fitting tool. But it's not easy. GD

Drop in a used ignitor - they can and do go bad resulting in misfire. Basically it sounds like either you are running lean, or you have a weak spark. Clean the MAF, and check the output of the front O2 sensor - could be reading rich and leaning out the mixture - the fact that it only happens once warm is a good clue - the O2 only starts reporting after it reaches a specific exhaust temperature. Below that the ECU runs in "open loop" mode because it has no O2 sensor with which to indicate mixture. GD

+1 - the stock paper filters are much better at filtration. Plus you aren't figureing the cost of the filter detergent and oil into the equation. The gauze type filters like the K&N do not trap particulates as well as the paper elements - and the paper elements do not need to be changed every few months - they are large enough to last quite a while.... unless you are near a volcanic ash cloud GD

Yeah - not a powerhouse. But it's easier and cleaner to use this deck and a cheap seperate speaker amp than to try and fit a monster deck with a huge built-in amp into the console. GD

Threw me off that you said "diff" instead of transaxle or transmission - I figured you meant the rear. But yeah - that's a minor detail and most FWD cars are built like the later "innie" rear diffs and the late model Subaru transmissions with the innie front diff. GD

It's not the starter or the solenoid. It's the car's wireing. Add a relay to apply full battery current to the starter solenoid - your problem is you don't have enough current to fully engage the solenoid. GD

Interesting - someone around here swore they did for a short time. But I suppose they could have just run across some that had been converted. GD

Head gaskets Intake/exhaust gaskets Cam/crank seals and cam support o-rings Timing belt/2 smooth idlers/1 cogged idler/1 tensioner idler Water pump Valve cover gaskets/bolt grommets Don't touch the rear main unless it's leaking and don't touch the oil pan unless it's obviously leaking, dented, etc - they are RTV from the factory and almost never fail. GD

Remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint and pull it free from the knuckle. Or if that's too rusty you can undo the bolts for the strut - mark them first though as they are the camber adjustment. As you surmised - pickle fork is a last resort and will destroy the ball joint boot. It is actually possible to replace the boots without even removing the axle from the hub side. Though on the EJ's this is usually so trivial that it's not an issue. No boot spreader needed, but you will need a pair of snap-ring pliers - the $3 one's from harbor frieght will work, etc. Here's a write-up I did on EA81 axles - the joint dissasembly is the same though so you can get an idea of how they come apart: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

Yes - those are meant to be removeable. Later EJ rear axles (like '95/'96) are single peices and use the "innie" diffs. You have an innie diff with adaptor stubs which was done for a short time around 94/95. Just reinstall them and you'll be fine. GD

The EMPI kits use these ("Ear type"): http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=183 They are not the stock fold-over style. They use a special installation tool which was about $10 IIRC - from the same place I get my boot kits. It's this one: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=25657,25907,26515,26565&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=performance+tool+boot+clamp&cp=27&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&wrapid=tljp1284743301259116&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=12012613235868072141&ei=l6CTTOWPJYP4swOJ2Ny_Cg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&sqi=2&ved=0CBoQ8wIwAA# GD

Typically - heavier flywheels are chosen for larger engines to make them idle smoother. Larger displacement = bigger BANG when a cylinder fires. More weight on the flywheel causes it to coast easier to the next cylinder in the fireing order. It also causes it to accelerate and decelerate slower given the same displacement - inertia is the key player here. Lightweight flywheels are sold that will work with any of the EJ's - causing a rougher idle and a quicker throttle response and RPM drop between shifts. The weight of the flywheel's is dependent on the displacement and application for sure - but it doesn't directly affect fitment or correct operation in the case of EJ25 vs. EJ22 (or even EJ18 for that matter). They are functionally equivelent. Typically for an off-road wheeler you would want a heavy flywheel to maintain inertia and smooth clutch operation at low RPM, while for a street performance or racing application you would want a lighter one. Stock are usually on the heavy side for smooth idling and driveability reasons. GD

Yep - should work fine. All the EJ's use the same crank pattern, etc so the block you use doesn't matter. Pretty much all the non-turbo clutch and flywheel's are the same too so you shouldn't have any trouble with the Imp's transmission other than probably having more power than it will handle . GD

A matter of a few thou - I'm not even sure why they bothered. But yeah I've seen that as well on some. I've also seen deeper steps worn into flywheels that weren't supposed to have them at all. I agree - shouldn't matter. GD

Yep - you need to add a relay to provide full battery current to the solenoid. Do a search or check the related threads at the bottom of this post. This is covered once a week around here. GD