GeneralDisorder

Since there's no real differences between EJ18 and EJ22 heads - it should be virtually identical to what was covered in that thread. GD

It doesn't really matter - it takes all of 15 minutes to change the front crank seal on an EA81. Most of those methods are fine. The unromantic truth is that the outer edge of the seal doesn't really need anything if it fits properly and the inner edge only needs a little lubrication of some form to prevent it from running dry on the first start-up. Personally I use Loctite 248 (blue in glue-stick form) on the outer edge and I use Dow Corning 111 valve lubricant on the ID when I'm being really anal. On a Subaru engine seal I just coat the ID in oil with my finger and knock the seal in. Not a big deal. GD

You have an exaust leak in the y-pipe. Fix it. GD

What you describe is known as the "Frankenmotor" and is a pretty common upgrade. It's a high-compression build in the 180 to 200 HP range. You use the EJ25D head gaskets and the compression is aroun 10.8:1 to 11.5:1 or so. In conjunction with a cam regrind it's a real kick in the pants. GD

It's running lean on that cylinder - find out why. GD

Heads surfaced = $80 Gaskets, hoses (radiator), etc = ~$150 Thermostat (only buy from dealer) = $15 Timing belt/idler kit (ebay) = $130 So for about $400 and a bunch of labor you could have it going. For reference - I see used first gen Legacy's all the time for $750 to $1000 in good running order. If it was me I would probably take it but I have a lot of parts and have done this job many times. It would probably be a part-out car and I would use the engine for a swap, etc and sell the rest. Just depends on what you want out of the deal. I don't think it's a bad deal if the body and interior are nice. But it's not the best deal I've seen either. EJ22's rarely blow head gaskets and that begs the question - what else was abused? I have bought them for $200 and drove them home and I've got them for free, replaced something simple like an alternator and drove them home...... if I get one for cheap that runs and drives I can do just a normal 60k service (t-belt, water pump, idlers, and any seals and gaskets that are bad) and be into it for about 4 hours of labor and $150 over the purchase price. That's how I look at these anymore. Sounds like the time investment and the unknown quantities (short block condtion) are too risky to me. I would just part it out. GD

I've had good luck with lubing them. The few I've done (I removed them and worked them by hand till free) haven't required any furthre attention. Eventually they probably will - the rust and lubricant will form a grinding compound inside the joint and in a few years it will probably get sloppy. Yeah - mark the shafts with a paint pen. GD

The being stuck in 4th when you come to a stop thing - that's not related. I've had 4 speed's that do that but are otherwise fine and do not grind in any gear. It's not a big problem if you remember to shift to neutral before comming to a complete stop. Sounds like 3rd and 4th are gone as well as the getting stuck in 4th problem.... pretty typical at 250k+ with these. It's junk now . GD

Depends - are you heavy on the brakes? Some people (especially some Women I've noticed ) are heavy brake users - tailgating and braking constantly on the freeway and not using any compression braking at all.... this wears them very quickly. If you think you drive like a maniac then get the good one's and make sure the lug nuts are torqued properly - this may stave off the inevitable warped rotor problem. If you are a light brake user that never has problems with rotor warpage, and you properly torque the lug nuts, etc - the cheaper stuff usually works fine. Eventually they usually warp and the better quality stuff lasts longer before it does - but then again they are three times the price and probably don't last three times as long..... just depends on what you want. Personally I buy the cheap one's for my vehicles and if I have to go in and replace one, etc it's still cheaper than having them turned and they are brand new every time I do a major brake job. OEM will last longer with heavier use, will be worth turning down when they do eventually warp or wear, etc. But the pads won't last any longer and replacing the rotors is an extra 2 minutes to the brake job...... Judgment call. GD

Manual transmission's are not nearly as troublesome with regard to tire size. It's the automatic's that have to worry about torque bind typically. I would just rotate them and call it good. GD

Eventually 4th gear will just not be there. It will chew up the shift dogs to the point that they no longer hold and the gear just won't lock to the shaft anymore - you will be able to put it in the place where 4th was located - but it will just grind. 3rd is usually the one that fails so expect that to go next. There will be a lot of metal in the oil as well. I doubt it will stop moving - but you won't be able to go real fast without 4th. GD

It's shot. Not worth fixing. Tell him to upgrade to a 5 speed. GD

Fuel pump pickup/strainer has come dislodged from the pump or the pump is not attached to the bracket. Just fixed this exact same issue on a '97 Legacy. Someone had replaced the pump and discarded the pickup/strainer. I replaced the entire assembly with a good used one from the u-pull-it for $35. Only does it turning right because the pump is on the right side of the tank so when you turn right the fuel goes to the left and the pump sucks air. GD

If there is no metal in the bottom of the pan then it is unlikely to be a main or rod bearing. By the sounds of it - the noise and the smoking - I would guess a broken ring/worn cylinder and possibly a piston slap issue. That is just a guess though. I would say tear it down and have a look - or just replace it. Bad EJ22's aren't that common. GD

Get the Ford F150 pump - much cheaper. Napa part# 2P74028 GD

Was there any metal in the pan? GD

Hhhmmm - that's pretty strange. But yeah - if it's not there then I wouldn't worry about it. I haven't seen that myself. Wouldn't grenade - the ECU would just complain and pull some of your ignition timing to prevent detonation. It would run fine otherwise. It's all about the ECU you use I suppose. I know that all the 90 to 94 EJ22's have the knock control system. I guess later stuff is not always equipped - that's pretty lame actually :-\. GD

NEVER use Bosch plugs on a Subaru. NGK only (yes they make platinums). There are many, many reported cases of strange issues with using the Bosch stuff. Subaru uses NGK platinums in the STi and I wouldn't go any other route. I do like Bosch reman alternators though GD

Old thread - but I'll give it a pass since it's close to the 90 day window. It's common on all engines that have plug wells in the center of the valve cover's. Honda's and Mitsubishi's do this all the time. I've replaced them on lots of cars. It's a pretty standard deal. GD

'97 is still phase I. '99 is a totally different animal - it's basically a SOHC EJ25 with the EJ22 bore and stroke..... plugs in valve cover's, 8 bolt BH, etc. And it's definitely worth the price being asked if it's a good runner. Probably more. '99 5 speed's go for $800+..... engines are more than transmissions as a general rule. Yes - an older engine could be used in it's place but most people don't know that and as such the 8 bolt 22's are rare and rareity is considered in price. All USDM EJ's have knock sensor's as far as I know. Including EJ22E's from the 90 to 94 days. I've had to replace them on more than one occasion GD

A bad regulator can be determined pretty easily - obviously you should change the oil (gas?) before running it - then check that the fuel pressure is within spec. Also use a vacuum hand pump to pull on the regulator diaphram and check for leaks there. If both those check out then the regulator is good. Sounds like bad injector o-rings maybe. That's a lot of fuel to be comming out of an injector - I doubt it would run if they were that bad off. But it's not unheard of for them to fail on the MPFI cars so you might want to just rebuild them when you replace the o-rings. A fuel-cut off solenoid.... that should only be found on carb models and it's (as you suspect) an anti-dieseling solenoid that cuts off the fuel supply to the idle circuit. Injected models do not need anything like that since the ECU just shuts off the injectors and fuel pump relay when you kill the ignition. I know just what you mean about people randomely changing parts.... I hate doing that. Injectors are funny beasts though. Example - I just did a valve job on a '97 Legacy. Burnt a 1/4" hole in one of the #4 cylinder exhaust valves. My machine shop (that does a lot of Subaru heads) has never seen this before on a non-turbo. The only thing we could come up with is a clogged or partially shorted injector.... fuel filter was fine..... I tore apart the offending injector and could find nothing. It Ohm'd out ok. It never showed any codes - even when running on 3 cylinders. I replaced them on general principle as well as the fuel filter. I checked out the other usual suspects for a lean condition - coolant temp sensor, cleaned the MAF (wasn't dirty but still....), etc. Rebuilt the heads and it runs like a new engine. I'm pretty sure something was up with that injector - damned if I could find it though. GD

'99 Foresters have the EJ25 phase II. The 8-bolt part doesn't matter - you just leave out the 4 unused bolts. GD

It's all going to depend on your model and type of belt system. There was at least a dozen systems used just in the models covered in this section of the forum and even knowing your model and year will not help - we need pictures. GD

An '80 Brat techinically belongs in the Historic Section - you might get better response there. I've never worked on a first gen headlight switch so I'm no help. GD

I've rebuilt plenty of rotory lobe blowers - adequate lubricants are availible for the syncronizing gears. In essence, it's a tri-lobe lobe blower - or "low pressure, positive displacement, air pump" if you prefer. They are used in industry for many applications and the automotive one's are nothing special other than being smallish. I've done rebuilds on units where I could stand inside the housing. GD