GeneralDisorder

*shouldn't* be any real vibration there. That's just the main shaft bearing carrier. Vibration would kill the bearing and quick. What vibration were you thinking would be present? Those bolts have lock washers on them - never seen one come loose so I think you should be ok with just the regular metric torque chart. The chart is not real flexible..... what I'm trying to say is that if a different torque value than that listed for the size/hardness of the fastener were required then Subaru would have used a size/hardness that is inline with the torque value they are looking for. Those charts are used by the engineers when sizing fasteners durring the design and development phase as well so they should be very close to what is actually called out. Hhhmmm - the EA82 CC system works off a chain on the pedal side IIRC - there is not a seperate throttle cable tie-in like the EA81's and EJ's. So if there's a problem to be found I should think it would be with the vacuum supply to the CC reservior - you may have inadvertantly disconnected or misrouted the supply to the big sphere on the passenger strut tower.... GD

I agree with Gary - don't concern yourself over the transmission issue. Definitely DO concern youself with the timing belt job. Insist that the water pump, front main/cam seals, and all idlers are changed along with the belt. Anything less is rediculous on a car that is supposed to go another 105k on those components. Chances are good that one of them won't make it. I've replaced many failed water pumps and cogged idlers and often it's on 60k belt cars that didn't have that stuff done at the 2nd belt change at 120k. Last EJ22 water pump I did was a total failure at 135k and the last cogged idler I did was a complete bearing lockup at 165k. When I buy cars to sell - I do a complete 60k/105k service on the engine (and any hoses, belts, etc that I am suspect of while I'm in there). I want none of these things happening to my customers and the measly $200 that the kits with all the components costs is cheap insurance for them and me. GD

To do it right you need to also swap the ECU and I think the IAC and maybe the MAF to matching components from the same year(s) you decide to use injectors from (probably 92 to 94 would be the best choice). The injectors have different flow rates and possible different driver coil's and could mess with how it runs. GD

There should be no modifications required to use the cruise control system with a Weber. If you use the stock throttle cable it should just work. Nothing about the carb itself has any bearing on the operation of the CC. Torque values: http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx Those are likely M8x1.25 so I would go with 150 In/lbs and call it a good day. Just for giggles - you should note that no real mechanic ever torques stuff like that. There is no reason to. You use a calibrated arm and the right sized ratchet handle. As my shop foreman used to say (ex-Pontiac dealer tech, master fabricator, and one of the guys *I* go to for help) - "Quarter turn before it breaks!" GD

It's very simple - you use the 5 speed gear selector in it's entirety - just bolt it up to the stud on the body. The front of the tray bolts to the tranny. For the 4WD selector you use the 4 speed assembly (again - in it's entirety) and add exactly 1" of rod to the middle of the selector lever that runs to the tranny. You pin it to the 5 speed using the same pin it used on the 4 speed. Thread the old 4 speed knob onto the 5 speed gear shifter and no one will be able to tell you have a 5 speed. It looks 100% stock inside and you don't need to cobble together a bunch of 5 speed console parts and make your interior look like frankenstein. Just buy Jerry's kit - all that stuff is taken care of for you and his price of $100 is beyond reasonable for what you get and how little work you will have to do. If you don't have access to a welder and fabrication skills, etc - Jerry's kit is a time and money saving opportunity that you should not pass up. Trust me - I've put more 5 speed's into EA81's than the majority of the regular poster's on this board. GD

Junk yard for the linkages - yes it can be removed with the tans in place. Dealership for new bushings, etc. They really make a difference. GD

MPFI is a 4 injector system. An '87 D/R (unless it's a turbo of some kind) would either be carbed or would have the single injector system (SPFI). If you swapped the dash harness and engine bay harnesses then the FPCU is located right above the hood release latch on the driver's side kick panel. It needs switched power, ground, tach signal, and it has a hot lead for the fuel pump as well as another one for the choke. GD

You may have to change the physical plugs but yes - you should have connectors in the same location for both. You can probably just unscrew your old switches and screw them into the new tranny and then it's plug and play. That's usually what I do with the EJ's. GD

That's a total ripoff then. This is why I hate used car dealers. . They try to get a premium price and then when you point out the flaws in this supposedly "premium" automobile they want to charge you to fix them. I would walk if they didn't do that stuff for free. Hell they should know about this stuff and do it before they try to sell it. They probably bought the thing on trade in for $1000 or less. Lame. GD

You have to use a carbed fuel pump and you need the fuel pump control unit and associated wireing, etc for the carbed pump to be properly wired in. In the SPFI car (trust me it's not MPFI), the fuel pump is controlled by the ECU which closes a relay and starts the pump durring cranking or running - since you tore out the SPFI harness you also removed the ECU's tach signal and in any case the ECU isn't going to play nice with a carb. You have to rewire the pump to run off the carbed FPCU instead. GD

I replied to your profile message. Yes - hopefully it's already been addressed but it does have low mileage so it's possible that it could still occur in the future. Not that big of a deal - when you first start to notice it address it immediately with that trans-x additive and you can probably catch it before it get's ugly. Knowing is half the battle right? They are changing all the idlers, tensioner, and water pump with that timing belt job right? I would make them..... you don't want a cogged idler failure on an interferance engine and beleive me they can and do fail. Last one I saw fail was on a '95 at 163k. That's long before your next belt change. GD

Well - you might not have the connectors for the low range indicator on your harnes. And some of the plugs for the other switches might be different. Things are almost never plug and play unless you are talking same part, same year, same model, etc. . But it should be very simple at any rate. You don't have to hookup the low range indicator lamp. It's pretty obvious if you are in low or not.... at least to most of us gear heads . I could see a total air-head female getting it into low range and then driving around and maybe noticing something was wrong buy not know what to do about it...... the indicator is pretty useless for most of us though . GD

I doubt you need to do HG's. Probably just replace all the coolant hoses (your engine looks really cooked so they are probably all rock hard) and do something about that lifter(s) . The coolant "tank" is for expansion - it being empty is a sign that there's a leak or that it was low when filled and the radiator sucked all that coolant in when it cooled. The fact that you saw steam would seem to indicate a leak. At this stage though I wouldn't suspect HG's if you aren't overheating. GD

IMO (and this is just my opinion) - to do it *right* you need to get a secondary fuse panel for the power supplies to the EJ piggyback harness. Painless wireing products (summitracing.com, jegs, etc) makes some nice fuse panels with various configurations - you should budget about $100 for that and associated wireing supplies like solder and heat shrink, etc. The rest of the tie-ins are relativley straightforward if you are swapping into an '82+ EA series. It's just a matter of knowing where to find the wire you need to tie into. Making it run is not so hard - doing a fused, correct, labeled, and mapped wiring install is harder. Most of the swaps out there are running with a fistfull of crimp connectors, no labeling, and no way for anyone but the guy that installed it to know what the hell is going on. This is a big drawback IMO - for one thing when something goes wrong (and it's more likely to happen to the dude with the fistfull of butt-connectors and wireing extensions all made from the same color wire ) it's going to be a nightmare to figure it out. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it - I'm saying get some practice at soldering, buy a label maker for $40 so you can make decent wireing tags, read up on wireing practices, and find out how other people have done this sort of thing. Personally I wouldn't want ANYONE to strip a harness for me - that's part of learning how the harness works and plays directly into the install process IMO. If you don't know how it works - you are going to be pulling your hair out when it doesn't run and you don't know why. There's a right way and a wrong way. I'm merely advocating the right way - be it you or someone else that does it - just don't do a hack job on the wiring as you will regret it later. Especially on a wheeler. GD

The TDC mark is not for the timing belts. There are three hash marks specifically for "valve timing" that are used when installing the belts. The TDC marks are for ignition timing only. Though I suspect that if you were that far off it wouldn't even run. So you probably meant that you used the center of the three valve timing marks right? GD

If you want to bring it by sometime I could take a look at it. It's very hard to diagnose EA carb issues like that over the internet. Give me an hour (my rate is $35 an hour) and I can probably tell you what's wrong, how to fix it, and maybe even fix it for you if it's a relatively simple issue. The best vacuum diagram is going to be the one under the hood - there are so many variations in years/models/etc and it sounds like you may have some wiring issues as you are burning up wires. Wireing (properly ) is one of my specialties. PM me if you are interested in dropping over. Today would be good actually - I'm in the shop all day. GD

I agree - I'm not saying it's outside the realm of possibility if the fuel pump were running (as in the check connectors were connected and the ignition was on causing the pump to cycle - that would be one way) but here is not enough fuel in the lines and rails to do this and gasoline can't travel through the pump unless it's running. I'm just looking for an explanation - obviously if you shot fuel out of the plug holes then we are talking about a LOT of gasoline. It got there somehow but I would really like a solid explanation of how this occurs. It's been discussed before on here and I still don't see how this happens. Gasoline doesn't flow if you break the supply and return lines loose from the injector rail..... maybe some kind of siphon effect from the return line side? Doesn't sound pluasible but..... I don't know the structure of the lines inside the tank, etc. In any case the tank is lower than the rails so I wouldn't think a siphon would be possible either unless the car was at a nose-down angle?? That I could definitely see - if the car were nosed downhill then the siphon could easily occur and cause the leaking injector to pull gas out of the tank and drip it into the engine...... I just don't get it. Never seen it either. GD

The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on. It should be off while running. Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch. GD

I haven't personaly run across that one. In fact I hadn't heard of it before actually. Probably because it affects specifically '99's and those only represent a small percentage of what I work on. Many have probably already been fixed. Don't use Lucas oil additives - in fact I shy aways from all additives except in extreem circumstances. The trans-x stuff gary mentioned can sometimes stop torque bind and apparently helps with this issue as well. GD

There simply is not enough pressure in the lines after the engine is shut down to fill a cylinder with gasoline. Go ahead and break one of the hoses loose right after running the engine - you'll see what I mean. Pressureized liquid does not compress so while it is under pressure, it does not appreciably expand in volume once the pressure is released. At most there might be a few Oz of gasoline that would be availible to leak out of an injector. Not enough to hydrolock an engine. That said - it does sound like you may have an injector issue if you are smelling gas in the oil and it's higher than normal. I have seen a little higher incidence of failure with the 90/91 automatic injectors (they are still very reliable). You might just buy a full set of reman injectors from www.rockauto.com - they are around $40 to $50 each. Much cheaper than the dealer. I would not even consider replacing less than all of them at once unless it was a single injector with a failed driver coil. GD

Sanding and priming should occur before painting. And you need to remove the valve stem to do a proper job. Due to the creases in the metal on steel rims I find that it is most effective to just sand blast them to bare metal and start over. The rust that forms in the folds of the metal tends to pop the paint in those areas. Prepping by blasting to bare metal and then washing with Lacquor Thinner before paint seems to work alright. Since you have time on your hands - why don't you post on craigslist and see if anyone can blast them for you cheap - then try one of those DIY powder coating kits at harbor frieght and bake them in your oven. You might actually make a few bucks on them that way. Cost to blast and powder coat a set is about $100 locally. If you do that you ought to be able to sell them for about that much plus the value of the rims. They aren't worth much unless they are properly finished. Maybe $10 a rim. Not really worth the time to paint them unless they are properly finished as above. GD

Screw a mechanical guage into the port and see if you have pressure while cranking. GD

It will bolt in - the biggest concern is the steering shaft which I beleive interfere's with the bell-housing slightly. You may have to grind the bell housing or modifiy the shaft to work. GD