GeneralDisorder

Philbin manufacturing in Portland, OR. I have had several distributors re-bushed by them. GD

Normally they don't care as long as there's no codes. They pull off. But it's a pain. GD

EGR is good for lowering cylinder temps and also promotes cruising at slightly higher throttle angles which makes the engine more efficient. No reason to eliminate it. The Weber has a port for EGR control. GD

Yeah I think all the Outbacks from that vintage had 4.11 final drives. Go on parts.subaru.com and cross reference the part number for the rear differential. Anything that matches will have the same trans. GD

There is nothing wrong with the car pictured. That is completely normal and how they were built. Look at the bottom of the car - the pinch weld area. It's level with the ground. Just as it should be. Draw a line parallel to the body trim line along the doors and see where it intersects the wheel well arches.... this is just the saggy-butt look of that vintage of Legacy. It's normal. And of course since that's entirely normal, replacing anything with stock parts will not "fix" it. The King springs would not only help to visually split the difference, they would handle more cargo weight. Just get a set and put them on the existing struts and hardware. Made in Australia and sold by a reputable US based small business. Just call Blake at Primitive Racing. Trust me. You don't need the matching front springs. They will sell you just the rears. GD

The stock cooling fans move more air than most of the aftermarket stuff unless you step up to Spal or Derale, etc. Been through this too many times on the WRX's and STI's. The stock fans are superior than any of the aftermarket offerings. I have had STI's overheat because some idiot put on aftermarket fans that looked really flash but couldn't move enough air. External transmission cooler is highly recommended for towing. If you aren't towing then don't bother. The 4EAT's typically last 250k+ at which point you huck them over the fence and install a used one. GD

The springs set the height and trust me - they ARE NOT bad. That's just the way these cars were. They look like they sag in the back because the rear wheel arch is physically lower on the body. Changing the struts will do absolutely nothing to the ride height. That is all set by the springs and with 106k...... changing them for another set of stock springs won't do anything. They don't wear out. GD

You can swap any year you like up to 2004 as long as you use the matching rear diff or the trans matches what you have. With 2005+ you also need to swap the front axles. Don't go beyond about 2007 though or you may find there is no way to install the speed sensor in the front diff. There's ways around that also if necessary but it involves some electronics to create a VSS signal from the ABS wheel speed sensor...... 99's are the same also. And you can use older transmissions as well. They just have a different transfer case housing and such. But they will interchange as long as you have a matching ratio rear diff. If you use a 90 to 98 trans it will have a 4 bolt bell-housing so 4 of the bolts will not be used. GD

Definitely ADF: https://awdadventure.com/ GD

There are no complete assemblies (that are not junk) for these cars. You don't need a spring compressor for the rears. You can just lean on them a bit and start the nut. The wheel arches are such that these cars always look like they are sagging and I'm about 95% that if you install anything that's "stock" it's going to look and act exactly the same as what you already have. A non-rusty car with 106k on it is pretty much guaranteed to have good springs, and at least marginal shocks (which have no effect on ride height). I would just get the King springs and put them on your existing struts and call it a day. Rick

Engine can't sustain those kinds of RPM without air. You have too much air going into it. Be that from the throttle or otherwise. GD

I treat all bad ideas - customer or no - with disdain. And if they don't like it they know where the door is. My reviews would suggest that in the *vast majority of cases*. my expertise is appreciated. Complex? I have no time for such foolishness. I have answers and I solve problems. That's what I do professionally - for several decades now. It doesn't matter what engine is in there unless it's not a Subaru engine - in which case you wouldn't be here because you would have already figured this out on your own or paid someone to fabricate a proper cooling system designed to cool whatever the swap may be. GD

No - the GT would have the Outback calipers, which got larger in 03/04 and required 16" wheels IIRC. They will work but require a larger rotor and possibly a different pad. And for the record. He may be the great one.... but only if The King proclaims it. And that's me. GD

That's all we can do is assume. It's the internet. Regardless of your level of experience or expertise, it doesn't change the fact that it's a stupid idea to modify the perfectly functional cooling system on a 95 Legacy. There IS an all metal radiator that will fit that chassis. It's not aluminium - which is what you asked for and doesn't exist. But you can figure it out. Seems that you have plenty of experience and don't need our advise. GD

Cars in general have MANY unused plugs. They are there for various reasons - usually diagnostics or options that model wasn't equipped with. GD

Intake's should be about 0.15, exhaust should be 0.20. Spec is 20 and 25 but that's too loose IMO. You have them too tight. Could burn an exhaust valve. Probably alright but you should do it a second time very carefully. GD

83 should not have a ballast resistor. Put the car back to stock the way you found it with the correct parts. It was not designed to have a resistor dropping the voltage while running. You have caused this failure by attempting to modify the ignition system incorrectly. GD

I am what I am. And I'll reply if my greater experience and knowledge can save you from being stupid and wasting time, energy, and money on stupid ideas. Which this most certainly is. I get it - I have racing radiators in my Legacy Sport Sedan, and my Trans Am, and we install them on virtually every build we do. I routinely build 500 AWHP Subaru's. I own a performance shop with an AWD DynoJet. I am more than qualified to HELP YOU make the right decisions. Get it? Did you bother to notice my post count here? Trust me - you don't need to modify anything and compromise the very well designed cooling system on your car. JUST DON'T DO IT. For the record. I'm not insulting anything. It's just the facts. A 95 Legacy, at this time in history RIGHT NOW, is worth..... virtually nothing. Someday it might go up a bit..... probably not as it's not really an Iconic car of the era like the Brat was for the 80's. It's just a plain old Legacy. It has a current KBB trade in value of $700 and private party is about $1500. In the grand scheme of things..... GD

They last 10 years. That's the life span of a plastic radiator. You really think this 95 Legacy that is 25 years old will be on the road when it's 35 years old. Even if it is, a Koyo plastic radiator is about $100 so that's $10 a year. Why would you bother with spending more? And no one makes an aluminum radiator for that chassis. Last time I had one custom made for an impossible application the cost was around $850. Been a few years and metals have gone up. Probably be $1k now. Just get a stock radiator and stop over thinking it. GD

Just get a stock replacement Koyo brand radiator. Hoses from Subaru. A 95 Legacy doesn't need anything special - don't overthink the situation and buy a $300 aluminium racing radiator for a $200 car. GD

Your distributor shaft bushings are shot. Has nothing to do with the module. GD

Have new keys made by the dealer based on the VIN. Your key is worn out. GD

Which locks? As in the key doesn't work in the door/ignition/glovebox/etc? Or the power locks? Or? Insufficient information to assist you. GD

Exhaust header will be too short to reach the heads without hitting the cradle. And you can just cut off the pipe, unscrew the fitting and drop a quarter down in there. Those spacers don't feed exhaust gas, they feed fresh air INTO the exhaust to charge the cat. So a Weber swap does not preclude their use. The converter will still benefit from the AIS system if you leave it functional. GD

It does have two functions. It also powers the choke. The FPCU uses the same tach signal as the tach. Negative coil wire. It's looking for the falling edge of the same signal that triggers the coil from the distributor module. What is your "distributor module issue"? GD