GeneralDisorder

The bracket holds the pads - it's there. It's hard to tell from the pics but it looks like those are for non-vented discs... but it's hard to tell. What year did you order them for? Vented discs didn't come out till '83.5 GD

I just looked at my wagon and those are correct. I guess I'm used to looking at EA82 and EJ caliper brackets these days. That's actually pretty cool that it came with the whole bracket - usually they just come as a bare caliper in my experience. But yes - those are 100% correct EA81 calipers. The brake line holder is for the e-brake cable. GD

We don't have rust here. The body is metal..... I can weld and fabricate. I don't see me running out of bodys to wheel anytime soon. As to our wheeling style - well that depends on the individual. I have plenty of trail damage myself and I don't mind - wouldn't be fun any other way. GD

It is most likely a DCP-306-27..... something like that. The throttle base is seperate from the carb and can be rebushed if neccesary. There are kits sold online for it (it's a standard 6mm throttle shaft). I would look elsewhere for your idleing problems though. I doubt that worn throttle shafts are the cause and replacing the carb may not do anything at all to help you. I would test the theory. Since the carb has been rebuilt - take apart the throttle shaft linkage and insert an o-ring of proper size to seal the shaft openeing. I doubt it will make any real difference to your running problems. I've seen pretty sloppy throttle shafts and frankly it would have to be a LOT of slop to cause a big enough leak that you couldn't tune it to pass emissions. There is also the possilibilty of installing a Weber (properly tuned of course), in conjunction with a new 3-way catalytic converter and a modified air-box to hide it under. The stock air-box would hide a Weber nicely and some flat-black paint and some oil/dirt stains....... it could be done. Big enough cat installed in the mid-pipe would make it pass easily. GD

It's a judgement call for sure. And more depends on mileage (if it's even known) rather than year of manufacture. If I pick up something with 25k on it - probably not. But the closer you get to 100k the more inclined I am to do them. On an EJ engine - it's a few bolts. If I've got the timing belt off then it's 4 manifold bolts and however many head bolts. A little time cleaning and some new gaskets. Not a big deal IMO. Plus any used engine is an unknown. I want to see the cylinders and the valves. If I see something bad there - THEN I will call the supplier and complain. GD

Just about anywhere will be cheaper to buy a reman and do it yourself. NAPA can get reman carbs in the $450 range IIRC. But I would bet it just needs a refresh - very seldom are the throttle shafts worn to such an extent that it affects their ability to run correctly. If you want to find a used one and send it to me I'll rebuild it for $200. I've done a lot of the Hitachi's and I'm pretty handy with them now. It is possible for you do to the SPFI swap and get it to pass CA smog as well - it's been done. You have to get a ref to inspect it. Basically you are "installing" an EA82 and if you do it up right with all the correct systems in place it will pass CA smog as if it were an EA82 - they are OK with that because you are installing a newer engine for all intents and purposes (it's fuel and ignition system anyway). GD

I just hate the belts, I hate the ticking, and I've seen more OHC related failures over the years than I care to think about. They are not up to the usual Subaru quality and ease of maintenance that the EA81's and EJ's are. That's not to say that you can't get a lot of miles out of them - I just have always had bad luck with the EA82's. I suppose it doesn't help that I don't find the body style all that attractive either. I tend to use them for their SPFI and 5 speed D/R parts. This says a lot - I've cut up or taken to the scrap yard at least half a dozen Subaru's now. All of them EA82's and all but two of them were rust free and unwrecked . I'm slowely thinning the herd. GD

So just to be clear - this is for EA81's? Or do they make kits for EA82's as well? Very cool! Nice to see there is someone out there getting parts made up for the older stuff. Pics? What's the ballpark price on a full kit ($250, $500, $1000?), and what parts have to be obtained from the junk yard? Does it retain the EA axles or does it go to EJ/hybrid stuff? GD

That's great they are doing that for you, but - the problem as I see it is that if everyone complains about the head gaskets (which - after all are just gaskets ), then these company's are going to get wise to that fact and either not sell the engines at all or jack the price way up because they have been burned too many times. They are *just* gaskets. Really this should not be that big of a deal. When you buy a used engine, IMO - you should expect to do a reseal and hang new belts, hoses, etc. Gaskets and rubber, and external bearings.... normal maintenance. GD

But I am betting your's is faster GD

Not the coil - the ignitor - center of the firewall - straight back. GD

Check for spark - might have only half the ignition amp working. Disconnect it and shake it to see if there is water inside. GD

I love it! I'm going to pass that on to my friend that refered the owner of the Chrysler to my shop. GD

The cast impeller is an OEM (Paraut) style pump. The stamped impeller is aftermarket. There is no real performance difference - I've used both on many engines and both perform without problem. The water pumps are pretty cheap new - I would get a new one if it was me. They are still availible - about $35 in the aftermarket. As for getting the fan clutch off - a quality 10mm end wrench and a flat blade screwdriver to hold on two of the other studs to keep it from turning is what I use. GD

Sounds like a clogged catalytic converter to me. Run a vacuum test on it. Sounds like you have back-pressure on your exhaust. Your compression numbers are fine. A little low but expected for an older EA. Nothing to be concerned about. My 260k mile hatch has three cylinders at about 140 to 145, and one (#3) that's at 110. You can't even tell when it's running. Idles smooth and has great power for it's age. Probably just valve seats. Lots of things *could* be bad and not throw a code. You should run a d-check to be sure as it performs more complete diagnostics that way. EGR solenoid is not the cause if your power issue - that's just an emissions device and doesn't matter if it's working or not for proper running. O2 sensor would only come into play in closed-loop operation. For the first 5 to 10 minutes upon start up it runs without the O2 sensor (not hot enough to activate it) and so the problem would dissapear durring that time if the O2 was to blame. GD

That is correct. The grooves on the starter bump are the easiest to spot. There is cross-hatching but it's in places that are harder to see while it's installed in the car. GD

Your best friends for the job are the hammer/punch (for shock), penetrating oil (Yield is the best), and heat - for small stuff the propane/mapp gas works ok. You have to work it back and forth once you get movement or it will bind. It's rather like cutting threads with a tap in a way. Lots of monkey-fisted mechanic's break those too. GD

Try the retrofitting forum. There's plenty of info and stickies there. GD

Search EA81 + Weber. EA71's use the same adaptor plate and have the same basic layout and jetting requirements. They are just not as common anymore and the EA81 was used exclusively from '82 on and was used in '81 as well on the higher end models. That book is somewhat useful. It's floating around here on the board in PDF form but as usual with manuals it chickens out on the hard stuff and says to take it to the dealer - like for "pressing" out axles. For which you don't even need a press in the real world GD

You can leave pretty much everything on - even the throttle body, etc. I wouldn't remove any of that. Just enough hoses to get to the 6 manifold bolts and there is an EGR pipe on the passenger side that goes from the manifold to the head - you will have to unscrew it from the head which can be a pain sometimes if you aren't used to stuck flared fittings. You will have to drain the coolant and there is one coolant line from the block to the thermostat housing as well as the upper heater core hose. As mentioned the manifold bolts are very often badly corroded and if the proper technique isn't used to remove them they will break off - either at the head or at the top of the manifold depending on the amount of corrosion. Removal of stuck fasteners is an art all to itself and can be tricky - just remember to take your time. You can't rush it or it will break for certain. GD

The manifold gakets also seal the coolant cross-over channel in the intake. Use only dealer gaskets, clean the mating surfaces REALLY well and torque them to 12 ft/lbs. If part of the intake runner gasket has squeezed out like that there is a high probability that inferior gaskets were used and you should replace them since further degradation and failure will result in a large coolant leak and then overheating. GD

I have been having good luck with the EMPI axles. There's a place up here that carries them. They can also be found online - but I don't typically like buying axles online for the obvious warantee related issues that may crop up. GD

Have you checked for spark? GD

That would cost a lot more than $300 and a LOT more time to install. Trust me on that one. You would be lucky to get a reliable motor and tranny for that price at which point it would look very nice sitting on the ground next to the car. The Weber's can be had used - this board, craigslist, and ebay are good places to look. Figure on spending about $200 once it's all said and done for a used carb and to rebuild/install it. There are TONS of threads about Weber's on your engine and the EA81 (same basic install). Just do some searches and you'll find what you need. GD

Yes - the window glass is different but the door itself is the same as the Brumby/Coupe. As I recall, those are really rare in NZ and Aus. Only a very few imported - maybe for early rally racing? Though that particular model might not have been being it's a 2WD. If you need any hatch specific parts they will probably have to come from the US. GD