GeneralDisorder

If you have access to a used ignitor - plug it in and try it. It's worth the 5 minutes it will take to do that check. It's more likely to be something simple like an ignitor failure which is not common but is not unheard of either. GD

I'm sure anyone would wonder that if their only experience was with the worst EJ series engine produced. Fact of the matter is that the phase I EJ25's like your's have known issues - the most prevalent is HG's. And since their HG failure's typically result in repeated overheating - they also suffer from bottom end failure - something that is almost unheard of in any other Subaru engine. This is due to abusively not changing the head gaskets at the first signs of failure. I'm sorry that you got stuck with a lemon, but it's widely known and frequntly talked about on here. A little research before you buy goes a long way. Your problem is not unexpected and to condemn the entire brand is pretty much ignorance. That's like saying Toyota is junk because you owned an early 3VZE - they had similar problems with head gaskets. Your best bet is to drop in a used EJ22 - they are much more reliable and it's an easy conversion. GD

Is there any possibility of running a die over the threads and cleaning them up enough to use? A metric thread file is a useful thing to have anyway - about $25 or so. They can be used to clean up buggered up threads. If the threads are totally gone, or can't be repaired easily with a die or thread file - it's going to be cheapest to just replace the axle. $65 will buy a new EMPI replacement and while the old axle could be fixed, it is not going to be cost effective considering the price of a replacement and the labor would be the same since removal and installation will be required either way. Rear axles do no use the same system - they are splined on both ends like the front inner joint. They cannot be used in the front. GD

If the rod itself failed and the piston isn't moving then it would - but I agree - more detailed inspection is needed. A "Rod bearing failure" will result in a broken rod. But 99% of the time they smash a hole in the block under the manifold - spraying oil and coolant everywhere. GD

I wouldn't neccesarily believe the first inclination of a dealership tech - for one they are in the business of working on and selling newer Subaru's. And for another they probably don't even *want* to work on an EA82. It could simply be that it has a very loud lifter tick (which can sound like a rod bearing on an EA82). Fact is - I have never seen or heard of a single documented case of a rod bearing failure that didn't result in the rod blowing a hole in the top of the block. GD

How do you know it threw a rod? When that happens they typically break the case and they puncture vital things like coolant passages, etc. GD

Go through your favorite dealer for the pressure plate. The rest of the stuff doesn't matter so much. And resurface the flywheel. GD

Yep - your ignitor is toast. Seen it happen due to water intrusion. I have no idea why Subaru doesn't mount these in the cabin . On the EJ swap I just did we had one fail from water - mounted the replacement in the cabin and all is well. GD

It's the bearing. It's pretty normal to only see a single failure like that. Doesn't indicate the other's need any attention. Just do the one and call it good. GD

It may actually need a new cable at this point. The damage to the inside of the cable sheath may be such that re-routing it won't even help much. A new cable (dealer only) is probably in order. Fortunately they are reasonably priced - around $25 or less for a replacement cable. GD

Both of those upgrades are straight bolt-on's with Jerry's kit for the transmission. You have to have a driveline custom made or fit the 5 speed's two-peice driveline but if you have one made it's also a bolt-in. It's a pretty simple swap really. Yes - I've earned my title apparently. Seems that I crush "hopes and dreams" around here too often GD

Grey. STD and DL models were always grey I think. There was a pretty ugly brown color in 80/81 as well and the blue from those years is lighter. Most were tan or blue. I've always lucked out and ended up with blue. Tan is pretty horrible IMO. GD

They can be a pain in the neck if you aren't used to them. I've had problems with the quality of the rebuild parts that are availible. If I were you I would be putting on a Weber. The stock carbs are gutless and I can't even bear to drive around with one personally. Plus the Weber really cleans up the engine bay - starts to look a lot like an old Chevy truck under the hood. GD

The cheap pocket code readers are fine. Mine is a little above a dirt-cheap model but really doesn't do any more. I use it a lot though as I work on other stuff besides Subaru's. The cheap pocket readers are just fine. As I said most of the vehicle specific stuff like TCU and ABS codes you can access without a reader. And seriously - there's no point in writing any software to do this stuff - you have a base model Legacy that's 13 years old. Seriously? Just get the codes and drive on. It's not worth the effort to reinvent the wheel here as there is nothing to gain. You have already wasted time and effort (IE: Money) waffleing over the purchase of something that only needs to be very basic for your uses. Just drop by your local auto parts store and pickup a code reader. It's not like these are $100+ items anymore. GD

Intake manifold gaskets or carb base gaskets. EA81 head gasket failure is rare. In any case you will not need new heads and no - you don't want to be replacing pistons. This is almost nothing like an air-cooled VW. GD

I use a $50 hand held OBD-II scanner. For Subaru's this works just fine. The rest of the codes such as the ABS and TCU codes can be accessed without any scanning tool. I wouldn't bother with the expense of hooking up a laptop - not for a plain '97 L series. It's overkill frankly. Unless you are tuning turbo engines, etc - waste of money. GD

YES. Change it immediately. The steering shaft will chew a hole in the outer sheath of the cable and cause premature failure and it allows water to get into the cable. Eventually the cable will snap. GD

Could be a CV joint, or it could be axle/hub splines with a loose axle nut, or loose lug nuts, etc. GD

If it fit's an Impreza, it will probably fit a Forester. The Forester is based on the Imp not the Legacy. GD

Yeah - that's the one. $8 shipping is pretty steep though. I beleive they are $8.99 where I buy them. Check around - you might have a dealer in your area and not know about it. Any performance VW shop (even if it's not a store) probably can buy EMPI parts. GD

The choke spring is probably shot. Someone turned up the idle speed so it would idle cold but once it warms it climbs to the unaturally high idle speed of 2k RPM. You will likely have to replace the choke spring. But a better solution is to go with a Weber carb or do that EJ swap you are talking about. GD

The 5 speed is totally an upgrade and will not be frowned upon even by purists if you do it and keep the interior stock (Jerry's kit is excelent for that). NO ONE wants the 4 speeds as they have problems. It's worth it to do the 5 swap. Rear discs as well though if you want them correct you need to install the proportioning valve that goes with them or an aftermarket adjustable. Nothing wrong with either of those upgrades and you will not hurt the value of the Brat to do them. GD

The steering donut happens to be exactly the same as the old VW Bug one's. For $8 you can get a shiny red urethane one from any EMPI dealer. Yes I'm completely serious about that. I've used half a dozen of them. It is 100% direct bolt-in . The steering u-joints can get pretty weird when the start to freeze up. It's worth it to remove it and inspect. And replace the donut since it's just a no-brainer. GD

Upgrading the wire from the alt to the battery is so you don't fry the stock wiring if/when a near dead battery tries to pull the full amp capability of the alternator. The stock alts were 55 amp and the wireing is sized for that many amps and possibly a little overhead (though I wouldn't count on it after 20 years). If you drop in a 100 amp alternator, the battery can and will pull all 100 amps off it if it's low. Battery's don't care what your wireing is capable or and are not goverened by fixed draw's like lights, fans, etc. And that is only part of a properly laid out electrical system. It should NOT go directly to the battery terminal as that is a huge fire hazard. It should first go to a circuit breaker close to the battery and then as short a lead as is practical should go to the battery terminal. In addition, accesories should NOT draw off the battery terminal - instead setup a new fuse panel that is driven from a junction off the battery terminal. You can find these junction's (simply a plastic deal with a threaded stud and some prongs for wire routing) on many GM products from the 80's and 90's in the junk yard. From there you should run through a circuit breaker and then to the main power input of your new fuse panel. I have been using the painless performance fuse panels and so far I like them. They are offered in water resistant varieties. summitracing.com etc carries their whole product line. GD

I'll see if I can snap some pics when it comes over next. He's mostly been driving his S10 recently since it's pukeing oil out of the valve cover as of a few days ago. GD