GeneralDisorder

What exactly are you trying to "dial in"? It's not as if you can tune these ECU's. None of the factory Select Monitor's (including the SSM IV for the 2020 models) come with any sort of wireless features. If the dealer tech's don't need it why do you? GD

Just get a $25 Launch c-reader. Don't bother with Bluetooth. The refresh rates suck and there is frequently compatibility issues. What do you need wireless for anyway? GD

No it means the water pump is shot. Yes you have to pull the chain cover to replace the pump. GD

Yes

That's a surge tank. One pump (the little squarish one) is a lift pump, that fills that little tank. The round pump is the high pressure fuel injection pump. Seems like either some part of this car (perhaps the fuel tank) didn't come from a turbo model and so someone has rigged this surge tank to circumvent the need for fuel tank baffles, etc..... Don't be so hasty to delete everything you see. You need to make sure it doesn't need a surge tank before you go de-engineering the car. GD

You can go with a thick gasket, but that was the entire reason for the HG failures on the 25D. Gasket is too thick. Also absolutely destroys your quench and if you expect a full timing curve at mid 11's it's going to be a real detonation prone engine with poor quench. Subaru's DO NOT HANDLE detonation. They want a lot of timing, and detonation kill rod bearings FAST. You want to do everything in your power to prevent it. So if you have a standalone you can run it on so you can pull a bunch of timing out of it..... that's not going to run for beans on a stock ECM. GD

The EA81 was produced from 80 to 89, but was only used in mainstream models from 80 to 84. The EA82 wasn't even introduced till 1985, and you should be using a 1985 GL Wagon with a 2 barrel Hitachi carb as your base for ordering parts. Nothing from an 83 will fit an EA82 in a 90 Loyale. Swapping the drive gear will require drilling a new roll-pin hole in the distributor shaft. It would be much easier to just acquire the correct distributor. GD

Get our your lathe and some bushing bronze. Only way any of that is going to get fixed at this point. All those parts are NLA. GD

That's an EA81 distributor. You need an '85 to '87 EA82 carb model distributor. The one you have there has the wrong drive gear and only a single mounting ear that will not line up with the adjustment bolt. GD

Misfires aren't caused by the TPS. You are barking up the wrong tree. Fueling is done by mass airflow and timing largely by RPM.... The TPS would have to swing a LOT to make considerable changes in timing enough to cause a misfire. TPS is largely used for acceleration enrichment and transmission kickdown, etc. Not achieving 100% isn't really an issue as anything over 80% is generally considered wide open for purposes of tuning (the point where the ECM enters power enrichment mode). Figure out what's wrong with your ignition or fueling or compression. TPS isn't your problem. GD

You do realize that a "full rebuild" is essentially impossible due to lack of parts right? The oil pumps for the EA81 have been discontinued for many years now. GD

ECM is not involved in starting on an 84. GD

Probably not a good idea. Best bet for you is to find a good used knuckle and swap it out yourself. GD

You don't have one. 2011 is drive by wire. Try cleaning the throttle body. GD

If the pump looks like that, then the rest of the engine is likely not far behind it. Putting a really nice pump on there is a great way to destroy the good pump when it encounters all the metal from the engine. The pump isn't going to help the situation. GD

You can buy just the Killer-B pickup tube. They are $180 and they fit the stock pan. GD

If there's metal in the pan, there's no reason to do anything with the oil pump. You can get a seal kit at the dealer. Oil pumps don't produce "pressure", they produce flow, and the volume of that flow in conjunction with the restriction to that flow provided by the clearances in the engine creates the pressure. Since it is unlikely that the pump's volume has been reduced significantly (unless it's wrecked inside which doesn't seem to be the case based on the cold pressure readings), that leaves the clearances in the engine are likely shot. There's no purpose in replacing or rebuilding the oil pump if the engine is hosed internally. Any metal that you can see with the naked eye is bad. And yes - the oil pumps for the EA engines are discontinued. No one can get them. The only source was Subaru and they stopped being interested in making them. GD

I absolutely believe it does. The portion of the tube above the level of the oil is shorter than on the flat bottom pans - all things vibrate, but shorter things vibrate at higher frequencies. Just like when you shorten a guitar string. The portion of the pickup above the level of the oil vibrates at a higher frequency (more vibration per second) and fatigue failure occurs. We don't see these failures on the pans that have the oil level lower (longer dipstick). The STI's actually have smaller oil pans, but they just run the oil up closer to the crankshaft and shorten the dipstick to get the same capacity out of them. Unfortunately I guess no one did the math on sympathetic vibrations and what that was going to do to the pickup tube. GD

Generally this is a weak spring in the slave. And possibly a leaking hose. Master's rarely fail. GD

251 pistons are flat top, while D pistons have a square dish in them. The problem I see is that 25D pistons are what you need, but it's essentially impossible for it to have D pistons with those thin head gaskets. The D piston requires a 0.051" gasket (IIRC) or the pistons hit the cylinder head. Of course they could have done custom pistons or mixed and matched rods or something but it certainly wouldn't be stock. If it turns over and it's made of stock parts then it's likely a 251/253 and the compression will be stupid high. Like 11.5 or more if heads and block got decked. Would run on E85 but not using the stock ECU GD

What pistons are you using? You need 25D pistons and it looks like, based on your head gaskets you are using 251 block and gasket thickness. The compression ratio on that combo is too high and it will suffer from severe detonation. The ECM will yank out your timing and kill the performance. Looks like those heads may have been decked. There shouldn't be a significant fitment issue with more or less stock block, heads, and intake. If you have plenty of parts to shop then the combo you want is a 255/257 rotating assembly, #5 thrust block, and 25D heads. Shave off about 0.020 on the heads, run 257 gaskets. You will need eccentric idlers for the timing belt, and you will have to enlarge the holes on the 25D intake. Very exceptional power band from that combo. GD

The pickup coil for the reluctor is integrated into the module..... it has to be next to the reluctor to sense it. It could be redesigned so that all you have inside the distributor is the coil itself without the electronics that convert the sine wave reluctor signal to a square wave coil firing signal. But that's not how they designed it. GD

Honestly it's typically easier to just snap the suckers off and drill them out. Assuming you have the skills to core it with a drill bit right down it's axis and save the threads. I've done this so many times at this point that I'm about 90% at drilling out broken/rusted/etc fasteners and saving the threads. GD

Disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes, and hook it back up. Or buy a scan tool on Amazon for $25 and clear the code with it. GD

That would be on the 255/257 with the narrow oil pans and the short dip-sticks..... not applicable to the 205 with it's flat bottom pan and low oil level. GD