GeneralDisorder

Sounds fishy. I would definitely be investigating that further - might be some fraud involved. As Rob sugests - compare the VIN's for sure. By the sound of your description of it - that's a DL alright. Manual everything. GD

I agree - I love the EA81. The problem is going to be supporting them - very soon all the parts for them will be obsolete. I have been having a discussion with a couple members about the EA81 oil pumps - it appears that the dealer has zero left in North America at this time. Aftermarket suppliers have them marked as "on order" and it's been that way for a year - at this very moment I cannot get one from ANYONE. I called my local dealer and he put a call in to SOA - the deal with these is that the supply is limited and they only order half a dozen or so at a time. The aftermarket suppliers probably aren't going to have them ever again as Subaru is only working through old stock. I placed an order with my dealer for two just to have them on hand and he says it may take a couple weeks to get them - he is pretty sure that the order will be filled this time - but the demand for them on a national scale is very low - it takes them three to four months to sell the half dozen they order. Very soon there will be no demand to speak of and critical parts like the oil pumps will be discontinued from the system. While I love the EA81, and plan to run a few of mine for several more years - the EJ swap is becoming more attractive all the time. GD

Actually - I have given it more thought - and I was wrong in how I was looking at the mechanics of it. The pressure plate fingers themselves are designed to be contacted by the larger 5 speed T/O so the Nissan T/O won't change how the pressure plate feels - actually it's probably still a little small so it will lighten it up just a hair. The other factor is the ratio of the fork. If the 4 speed and 5 speed forks are the same in length and location of the pivot - then the clutch feel will be identical to a 5 speed assuming the pedal lever is basically the same. GD

I understand what you meant - I'm talking about the ratio of the fork - which is determined by the length from the cable to the pivot ball and from the ball to the contact point on the PP fingers. The ratio is 2:1 on the 5 speed's according to my '85 FSM. The length from the ball to the PP fingers would be reduced by .1929" when using the Nissan T/O vs. the stock 4WD T/O. That would change the ratio...... I would have to take measurements to find out exactly what it would change to, but perhaps it will be easier to just ask backwoodboy how his clutch feels GD

Bouncing tach is often a sign of a bad alternator - have you seen it bounce since you replaced it last night? I just replaced the alt in my woman's EA82 sedan - all of a sudden we were driving and the ignition went to hell (no power) and the tach started bouncing like 1000 RPM throughout the range. Limped it home (3 blocks) and replaced the alt which had some bearing noise and about .5v of AC current comming out of the VR. Problem solved. GD

That's true - I haven't compared the EA81 fork to the EA82 fork but if they are the same overall length it shouldn't be any harder than a normal 5 speed clutch..... plus the difference is half the difference of the OD's of the bearings.... so the change in leverage is .1929" .....less than 1/4". I just did a 5 speed into a Brat with a new clutch kit, flywheel cut to XT6 specs, and new cable. The clutch is so increddibly light that even a bit harder would actually be desireable. GD

I seems easiest to run the tach using the yellow wire from the coil - that way you don't have a stray wire hanging out in the engine bay and no splicing for it under the dash. Worked fine in the '85 Brat I just did. GD

It's not worth trying to machine it - they are about $10 or less at the junk yard. You don't have to buy new one's since they are not a wear item unless the nut has come loose. Otherwise they last the life of the car. Machining it would have to involve adding material (welding) and then cutting new inner splines..... which is a lot of work when the replacement part is common as dirt and super cheap. GD

I haven't measured EA82 SPFI pistons, but since the bore/stroke is the same between EA81 and EA82's I would guess that it would effectively do almost nothing. The EA82 SPFI is already 9.5:1 (though carbed EA82's are 9:1). GD

I just remember them being really tight in there. I have pulled a few at the yards and there's more swearing involved with the inboard alt than any of the other models - since the alt is almost totally surrounded with brackets on all sides except the top I would be seriously concerned about how the delco would fit in there. Two solutions - either the Hitachi Nissan Maxima alt would fit (maybe), or you could switch over to the inboard AC compressor setup as used on the non-turbo's or perhaps convert entirely over to the ribbed belt system of the XT turbo..... GD

Is the '98 a 2.5 or a 2.2? GD

Use the RX manifold, wireing and distributor, and the Loyale long block. The engines are the same even if the wireing changed a bit - sometimes they changed connectors on stuff. Just to be safe I would strip the donor to the long block - gives you a chance to clean it up and overall it's less work that way. GD

Crank and heads - no they won't interchange. Pistons will interchange across all the 92mm bore engines - EA71/EA81/EA82. The EA71 pistons are taller from the wrist pin to the top of the piston - by around .010" IIRC. It bumps the compression up from 8.7 to around 9.5 GD

Wouldn't it have solid lifters? GD

My torque wrench comes out for lug nuts (avoids warping rotors), head bolts, and EJ series axle nuts. I have not experienced the need for one on any other Subaru fasteners. Nor have I ever broken one (except twisting them off when trying to remove a rusty fastener - which I try to avoid but am not 100% succesful at) or over tightened them..... or had a part fall off or come seriously loose for that matter. That's 10's of thousands of fasteners - without a single too tight/too loose failure. Of course - don't attempt it if you aren't sure you can feel it. If this were NASA I would be walking around in a white smock with a torque wrench in either hand. And I would be charging $10,000 for a clutch job - and it wouldn't be ready for 6 months. GD

Yeah - should be a simple thing to do. It's cardboard covered in fabric or vinyl. Lots of folks have just bought some fabric and covered it. You just get a can of spray adhesive and glue it down. Then cut to shape and fold the edges under. Really simple. GD

Yep - you blowed up the infamous Air Suction Valve. Unthread the metal pipe going to the valve and insert a quarter down into the valve body. Thread it back together and you are golden. GD

I wouldn't buy from that dude just cause he's trying to flip it - clearly has his head up his anus. Trying to flip such a car is asking for problems. That and he's clearly not real honest or intelligent. GD

That is a lot of advance - it would still run just likely ping under heavy load.... assuming the mechanical advance is working I usually set mine at about 10. GD

Ok - some numbers: EA82 4WD 5 speed T/O bearing: OD: 3.15" (but the PP contact "bump" is slightly inboard of the OD due to the stamped steel design) EA81 4WD 4 speed T/O bearing: OD: 2.5039" (Bore: 1.5748" - to mount to T/O bearing holder) 1990 Nissan D21 Pickup (2.4L 4 cylinder) T/O bearing: OD: 2.8898" (PP contact "bump" is right on the OD) (Bore: 1.5748" - same style mount as EA81 - on cast bearing holder) If it's me - I'm useing the XT6 kit like Ken sugests - but with the Nissan T/O. For the extra $25 it's just peice of mind. But.... it's a judgement call I suppose. GD

No. But I have mocked up the parts and also have had a T/O bearing lock up and wear through the PP fingers even with proper contact.... and I've seen plenty of PP's with wear on the T/O contact surfaces. I'm not saying it won't work - just that I would be concerned about it's longevity with ~1/8" of the OD of the T/O touching the fingers. Seems like it wouldn't last is all I'm saying. I'm sure it would *work* - just not comfortable with what I see looking at how the parts mate up. And if there's a larger diameter T/O availible that will correct this issue - why not investigate the possibility? What's wrong with at least taking the time to check it out? I agree the holding power of the XT6 setup is a good call. Just want to make sure it's going to give years of service for him. Maybe that is the key - I'll see if my dealer can answer as to the physical difference if the part numbers are still different. They are pretty cool about such things. GD

The only EA82 setups I would be concerned about for fittment is the ribbed belt XT's, and the turbo's with the alternator inboard of the AC compressor. In the former case the pulley is wrong though that may be an easy fix, and in the latter case the stock Hitachi is so tight that I doubt the slightly larger delco case would even fit. Maybe..... but I doubt it. GD

Hhhmmm - well it's probably all checking out till you start turning the wheels so it could be a cracked tone ring or something. If any of the sensors had an open circuit the light should be on all the time since the computer is able to check that while the car is not moving. After I cleared the codes the light was still on - I found an open circuit on the left rear sensor. I'm about to replace it now and we'll see if that takes care of the problem for me. I had 3 codes stored. GD

When I did it the first time it didn't work either - I had to slow down with my connnect/disconnect of the test lead with the #6 terminal. It has to be done within like 12 seconds but it seems that if you do it too rapidly it doesn't catch what you are doing. Either that or you have to pull the pin out - *then* do it three times. So it's almost like doing it 4 times. Anyway I got mine to go away by just modifying my procedure a bit till it worked. Give it a try with a few variations and maybe slow down a scoshe. And yes - I ended the procedure with pin IN the plug. Then I cycled the power and only got the code 11. GD