GeneralDisorder

Check for bad stereo wiring - more than one person has found their problem with the #5 fuse to be a poorly wired aftermarket stereo. The crank circuit issue will be solved either by addressing each component of the crank circuit (battery, cables, starter/solenoid contacts, ignition switch, connections, etc) or it will just get worse no matter what you do and you'll have to install a relay to power the solenoid. GD

Glad you got it fixed - sometimes, when it's not possible to do it the "right" way with the tools you have - it's best to pay a pro. Hope it wasn't too expensive. GD

Last one I did - bearing locked up but the belt was strong enough to spin the inner race - it used the bolt as it's bearing and squeeled like a stuck pig for 150 miles. Destroyed the bearing, the bolt, and the water pump. GD

There should only be a single wire. If you ground said wire the gauge will wrap over to max. It's typical of these sending units to read low and to leak as they age. Look for breaks in the wire also as the wire runs down near accesory belts, etc. GD

6207-2RS-C3 About $5 to $10 at most any bearing house. GD

Unless it forms an actual drip or starts overheating - don't worry about it. As much as we would like to think they are...... these just aren't swiss watches and a few minor leaks can be tollerated. It may stop as it ages. I would watch it and see. GD

Ignition timing? GD

Yes there will be play in the bearing assembly without the drum in place as it holds the outer bearing into it's race. You can do the bearings yourself though it does help to have the ring nut socket. You can use a punch to free the ring nut and spin it out if you don't have the socket. Once that is out, drift the bearing assembly out through the back of the arm, clean up the cavity, and install the new bearing outer race or assembly. Usually you can use part of the old bearing as a driver to install the new one. Make SURE you drive the axle stub out of the old bearings while it's still in the arm - before you remove the ring nut otherwise they can be difficult to remove once free of the arm. If you have access to a press it will be a simple matter. If not you can get the job done with a good sized hammer, some brass drifts, and a bit of injenuity. It's really a very simple thing. Most dealer's won't even bother to do a job like this. They will just send it out to a machine shop with a press. But half those monkey's don't know how to use a press or how to treat bearings. Bearings are delicate - you can't ever press or pound on a bearing in such a way as to transmit force through the balls. Every whack they take = -10% or more on their life. It can't be overstressed that it MUST be done correctly and in the correct order or the bearings will last 10,000 miles instead of 250,000. GD

The Hitachi is a two-barrel carb but runs primarily on the smaller of the two - thus only has a choke plate on the primary. So you should see a "flap" (properly termed they are a "butterfly" or just a "choke-plate" or "throttle plate") on the top of the primary, then if you look down past that one (open it with your finger, etc) then you will see the throttle plate. On the secondary side there is no choke plate so you can see right to the bottom where the secondary throttle plate is located. Sounds normal from your description. That doesn't mean there isn't something else wrong with the carb though. If you can get it started, look down in the carb as you manually rev the engine with the throttle wheel - observe the spray pattern from the primary nozzle (the center of the cross-peice above the throttle plate). It should look uniform and nicely aerated like the water from a sink faucet. If it's messy, dripping, and uneven then you probably have an internal blockage. Check for spark - with it running as slow as you can get it to - pull each plug wire in turn and see if it makes a difference. If it is running poorly, you pull a wire and it dies - that plug was working. If you then pull another wire and nothing changes at all - that cylinder isn't fireing for some reason. Then check for spark - if you pull a plug and nothing happens but it DOES have spark on that cylinder - time to run a compression test. Something could be amiss in the valve train. Another quick check - pull the outer cover on the passenger side timing belt. If that cam isn't turning you will lose both the #1 and #3 cylinders but because the distributor runs from the driver's side cam it will still run - just very poorly on two cylinders. 35 MPH top speed makes total sense for a 2 cylinder 0.9 liter engine with it's whole fireing order on 180 degree's of the crank. GD

Also check that the choke is opening. It's very common with the EA82 Hitachi carbs for the choke spring's to break where they attach to the lever that opens/closes them. If it broke and the choke were jammed shut then you would have similar symptoms. GD

My initial thought is that it might have blown an Air Injection Valve (the symptoms and the smell are good clues) - when this happens the hot exhaust will melt the soft plastic silencer (like a muffler) and that molten plastic gets sucked into the carb - it can jam throttle shafts, block ports, etc. First thing you should do is remove the air filter top and inspect - look for black peices of plastic down in the carb - look for oil in the airbox - is the filter completely soaked? Etc. If the PCV gets too blocked up it will suck engine oil into the filter and airbox and once the paper gets soaked it will choke off all the air to the engine. My other thought was the fuel filter - but unless it's severely clogged it shouldn't keep it from idleing. It's a possibility though. GD

Cracks between the valves are not a concern unless they are wide enough to fit your thumbnail into and/or the valve seats are loose. Make sure there are no cracks into the exhaust port as those will open into a water jacket. Get yourself a thick peice of glass large enough for a sheet of sandpaper and true up the head surface with some 220 grit, then some 400 grit. Use WD-40 for lube and to clean the paper. Use the Fel-Pro perma-torque gaskets. Torque them to 55 ft/lbs instead of the stock 47. Chase threads, oil, torque in sequence, etc. GD

Agree - sounds like either the hub splines are gone or they gave you a 25 spline axle (inner joint) for your 23 spline transmission. Mistakes happen like that with parts stores. GD

What were the conditions under which this occured? Did it stop or is it still doing it? Does it idle? Etc.... Need more info. Could be a lot of things. GD

I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds minor. Maybe do a retorque just to be safe. No - the gauge will not hurt the head gaskets. GD

That's what happened to the original engine from my lifted wagon. 165k - oil pump went bad and the lack of good oil pressure resulted in the #3 rod comming out of the top of the block. GD

They just updated the bracket - they are still using that stupid new style tensioner. It's more expensive and has to be replaced basically every 105k or you risk leakage or improper compressing durring assembly, etc. GD

As far as I know, that's correct. Subaru doesn't actually sell a "kit" but all the parts are the same as a CA spec (105k belt) EJ22 with the exception of the tensioner assembly and it's associated idler. All you need to do to run the older style tensioner is change the bracket. GD

The cover is but the plugs are steel. Thus drilling through them and then using an extractor or tapping and replaceing them is easily done. GD

Having the front end up in the air a bit (on an inexpensive set of 2 ton or 3 ton jack-stands or even a set of those drive-on ramps) helps to get more of the ATF to drain out. When I do it I usually have the front wheels about 4" off the floor and I typically get about 5.5 to 6 quarts out. I then drain that into milk jugs and asses how much needs to go back in, etc. I would do the job myself if I were you - the experience is more valuable than having the dealer do it for you. Changing/checking fluid levels, filters, brakes, etc are simple skills to obtain and require very few tools. If I had my way I would require people to learn these skills to get a license. Would make for safer roads and fewer breakdowns. And in general our society needs more "can do" attitude and less "can call someone that can do" attitude GD

Try one of the online Subaru dealer's - you can type in your part numbers and it will give you the price. Very handy tools. You also might try some of the transmission rebuild kit companies. They can usually help with stuff like that - even if they don't list a kit they can usually reference all the individual parts. GD

Depends on what you are doing with it - a mechanical non-turbo distributor isn't going to interface with any of the turbo ECU's so to use one would have to be part of a larger modification that would include ditching the stock ECU. For example - MegaSquirt could run the turbo engine using the non-turbo carbed EA82 distributor (if you used something like the Ford EDIS sensor). Without the CAS signal, the stock ECU wouldn't be able to time the injector pulses. Thus since the non-turbo mechanical distributor's do not have a CAS they are incapable of running the stock ECU's fueling program. GD