GeneralDisorder

Alternator has failed. GD

Really good code readers are about $25 on Amazon. There's zero reason not to have one now. GD

Pull the codes. CANBUS communications problems would be my guess. Every module is pissed...... and that right there is why I don't anything newer than 91 personally. I have to fix too much of this kind of BS at work. GD

Intermittent mode uses a different set of electrical contacts in the wiper transmission. So it only turns one rotation and stops to wait for the timer to expire...... here's a picture that better illustrates what's going on inside a wiper motor: https://images.app.goo.gl/KSVmdi9os99WopwKA They have sliding electrical contacts. If something goes awry in there or gets sloppy the contact ring and arm can be misaligned or in a burnt position, etc. When you move it you are literally moving the electrical wiper and contact ring to a position that conducts electricity and operation can resume. Generally you have a "park" position where the wiper goes to a lower position for parking out of the line of sight when it's off. For intermittent mode the wiper is not parked but held in a lowered, but ready position. GD

Wiper motor is likely bad. As to your question - yes all wiper motors have limiting switches and "tracks" with electrical contacts that "sense" the position of the wipers as the motor turns the eccentric drive wheel. Otherwise they would be unable to park themselves. It's all built into the motor typically - which has been the case for at least 50+ years. It may also be an alignment problem or looseness in the linkage.... on a Subaru this new, and in your climate I would have to guess this is a result of putting the wiper transmission and linkage against a heavy load like snow, etc. We don't ever really see problems like this on a model that new as such I would guess damage from improper use. GD

https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/#/login Purchase a subscription and download the manual. GD

Old Subaru's just aren't well supported with parts. Doubt that will change, and a 20 year old Forester is in the edge of being unsustainable also. Won't be long - 10 years or so - and parts will be basically unobtainable on the first gen Foresters also. Anything "new" like the Crosstrek or the upcoming Bronco are all in the 2005+ era of CANBUS module h*ll. Wherein the vehicle has between a dozen, and five dozen "modules" that exist on a serial CANBUS network. If any of those modules fail (lets say your "heated/cooled cup holder module" or your "ambient scent HVAC misting module") then it wreck's the CANBUS network termination or worse if the module goes nuts and pollutes the network with traffic that conflicts with important network packages, then the results will be unpredictable - anything from super-heating your iced coffee to a complete lock-out of the security immobilization system, etc. If you go "adventuring" in the back country where you may encounter conditions that are non-optimal for electronics..... you see where this is going. If you wouldn't throw your iPhone in a mud puddle then you likewise shouldn't throw your CANBUS networked vehicle in one either. As much as they are gussied up and appear to be "tough" I can assure you that none of the electronics in the carpeted, leather wrapped, climate controlled interior are in ANY WAY water proof or even resistant. Just look at what happens to cars that have been in floods. The farther back you go, the simpler the electrical systems are. My 84 GMC is a carbed 350 Vortec. It only needs +12v to the coil, and another +12v to operate the starter. In addition, the aftermarket support for the 73 to 87 square body GM's is exceptionally good. They are on the rise in value and NOW is the time to buy while prices are still reasonable. Not only can you get ANY part, you can get MOST critical drivetrain parts at ANY parts store and chances are it's in stock too. These are the qualifications that matter for an adventure vehicle. At least IMO. I've been stuck in the woods with broken vehicles. I've laid in the mud and gravel and filth fixing broken drivetrains. The less this happens the happier I am. The "amenities" that will fail on you and take out half the rest of the electrical system aren't worth the trouble. They will, however, ensure that the vehicle is obsolete in a timely manner for the manufacturer to sell you a new one. Also - to the OP and anyone else reading - if you can't/won't fix your vehicle when it breaks off road just stay home. Us that can don't want to fix your stupid mistakes and lack of preparedness. GD

There are collectible insurance providers that will cover it for whatever you tell them the value is. But they all require that the car be garaged and proof of same (pictures of the car in the garage, etc) and that it NOT be a daily driver. Read between the lines here - that means you need another vehicle that IS your daily driver. Otherwise you don't qualify. In all cases, even agreed upon values, etc..... if the car is in an accident that consists of more than a bird pooping on it, the vehicle will be totaled FOR SURE. Because the *actual* value of an EA82 in the current market is basically scrap metal value. And actual replacement value is very low even on very nice condition vehicles because the nicest EA82 out there isn't going to command much more than $1500 to $2500.... which is basically nothing in the scheme of classic car values. That's the value of a mostly clapped out 20 year old farm truck. Not to mention - if it does get wrecked - repair to significant structural uni-body damage is nigh impossible. Parts can't be sourced, and they are never the same after the uni-body gets tweaked. Unfortunately the reality of uni-body cars in general. Once they are damaged or rusted they are essentially throw away items as they are all spot welded together from sheet metal that folds up like wet tissue paper in an accident. GD

Manual's are not. The power is equally likely to go to whichever end has the least traction. The 4kg VC in the center diff will allow some power to go to the end with traction. There is no "bias" except in the case of the STI 6 speed where you can manipulate the bias electrically - different center diff entirely though. Auto's have different drive mechanisms for front and rear. The front receives power all the time, and the computer decides to send up to 50% power to the rear by locking the transfer clutch. This signal is easily bypassed and with the flip of a switch (mod) you can lock them into full 4WD which essentially negates the front bias as the computer is removed from the equation. Best value in a Subaru wheeler is a 99 to 04 Forester automatic. With preference for the 03/04 years. You can lift them and they have the most clearance in the strut spring perch. You can lock the auto into 4WD with a simple and inexpensive electrical switch mod. This will absolutely wheel circles around a CR-V. There are a LOT more "adventure" parts and accessories for the Forester than the CR-V. Honda isn't as well accepted in this type of market. Although the CR-V does have a more reliable engine overall. The resale value on both is very high compared to other vehicles of that era. Personally - my adventure vehicle is an 84 GMC Jimmy (Blazer). Because I want more off-road capability than any Subaru can provide. I want to throw 20 foot mud rooster tails with a 350 HP V8 and crawl over more aggressive terrain. Because fun. Yeah it gets 15 mpg but it's not my daily (well not usually), and has a 31 gallon tank so range isn't an issue. I paid $2500 with a blown engine and dropped in a $1500 drivetrain left over from a friend's LS swap. So $4500 for a short wheelbase with 35's..... and honestly it's simpler and more reliable than the Subaru's of similar vintage. And the fuel economy loss is well worth the fun factor. GD

As above - change the fluid and move on. These vehicles rarely get much past 250k before being scrapped out simply due to everything on them wearing out including the engine, suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. So that vehicle in all likelyhood has in the neighborhood of 50k left in it statistically before you or the next guy gives up on it. It's resale value at that point (frankly already with 230k) is in the toilet so a transmission swap won't happen no matter if the trans dies or not. GD

Look in the FSM. Convert the color to cross-sectional area and convert the area to AWG. GD

Don't worry about it. Just line the head up by laser eyeball and lock it down. It will be fine. These are decidedly NOT swiss watches. I've installed EJ heads with no alignment dowels and never had a problem at all. Obviously line it up as best you can by eye, but don't sweat it being missing. GD

The door window motor transmissions rust to the point of seizing. It's a known issue and lubricating the tracks won't fix the transmission. GD

It is not acceptable to re-gap iridium or platinum tipped electrodes. This can cause them to fracture. DON'T change the gap. Check it and if it's incorrect - replace the plug. GD

Amsoil CVT fluid surpasses both Subaru specs. GD

They were thinking they needed to alert you that the oil level was 2 quarts low. Which they did. Mission accomplished. GD

Engine is likely garbage. Anything that can result in that level of valve guide/stem/spring fuckery heralds THE END for that engine. Just find a replacement. GD

It's typically 2006 to 2010 that would be a direct bolt in. The 05's usually are not AVLS, and the 11+ engines are quite different externally. GD

Your vehicle had the trans swapped before the extended warranty ran out or at least before you got it at 145k,..... basically none of those 10/11 models made it that far without a replacement transmission. GD

What model and year are we working on? GD

You can buy the motor separate. That's the only part you can get independently. GD

Likely will have to replace the entire assembly. They are cheap plastic and cable driven. When they wear out they are garbage. Used is not a good option and they sell no repair parts. Get a new sunroof assembly from the dealer while you still might be able to. GD

Head gaskets are blown. Classic symptoms. That's just what this engine does because the gaskets were too thick. Replace the pistons with 00 - 04 EJ251 pistons. Use 770 STI head gaskets. Check the block for fire ring pitting. Resurface heads, etc. And get a new radiator and hoses. Definitely isn't worth fixing - being a 98 that needs $3,000 in work. You can do it yourself of course but it's way outside of the value of the car for sure. Could also put a 2.2 in it if you can find a decent one but they are all 22+ years old now. Mostly junk. GD

The 5EAT is hot garbo. Too many problems. Not at all reliable like the 4EAT was. GD

The 5EAT is crap. Many problems. 4EAT was great. 5EAT.... not so much. Wiring problems, solenoid/valve body problems, TC problems...... it's a laundry list and they were never fixed. The late model 3.6 has the "high torque" CVT and they have been great. I have a customer that's nearing 200k on a 2016 and he hasn't had any problems really other than a TC seal that was fixed under warranty. Amsoil's CVT fluid exceeds both of Subaru's specs. Regular and High Torque. Available in quarts. The Subaru fluid is in quarts now also I believe. Same with the gear oil. They discontinued selling pails of Extra-S. GD