GeneralDisorder

Wouldn't you also have to swap the ECU and the MAF? Maybe other things? GD

Probably not. But it's not all that hard if you have the right tools and some patience. A bit of experience with precision layout operation, a drill press, and at least a bandsaw to freehand the shape if you don't have a laser/water jet/etc would be prefered. Though I'm sure more crude tools could do the job if you wanted to be a month making it. This is covered by the splash plate that bolts to the bottom of the engine. There has to be a way for fluids (oil, water, etc) that get into the bell-housing from a leaking rear main, bad clutch fork boot, etc to drain away. If I were going to free-hand the thing with a bandsaw or saber-saw (yikes), etc then I would use 1/2" (13mm) aluminium plate. Because the plate is open at the bottom you could pretty much do the whole plate using a band-saw. You need the dowel pins from both - EA dowel pins go on the transmission side, EJ dowel pins go on the engine side. They are different sizes and in different locations and must be precisely located on the plate for proper shaft/pilot bearing alignment. This is THE most critical alignment of the plate. The rest is just bolt holes for bolting it all together. GD

Toyota's are good cars - I have nothing against them. Don't own any but my family's fleet has a Nissan, a Ford, and a GMC so I occasionally work on stuff other than Subaru's - have to do a timing belt on my neighbor's Honda soon Friday's are usually a good day - the woman is off at work and I'm in the garage most of the day if I'm not out getting parts or at the junk yard. GD

You are more than welcome to drop by and see what's going on in my garage any time. There's always something major happening it seems like. EJ22 swap in a Brat is getting started this week and I have a Weber install on an EA82 wagon happening in the other bay. Plus various other projects. Clutch replacement's and transmission jobs come and go around here at a regular pace it seems like. Even my personal rig (EJ22T) needs a new clutch right now. GD

You could replace them with proper amperage circuit breakers as well. That way they can just be reset. GD

It's a pretty simple job. I don't know that I can spare a lot of garage space - you could nose it in so you are working in the dry or if the weather holds you could do it in the street out front. There's an EJ22 swap going on in one bay and the other is my personal space for business use, etc. You don't have to pull the engine completely - just forward enough to slip the clutch down in. It's actually pretty quick and easy - pull the radiator and fans, remove starter and loosen PP blots, lift the engine to clear the motor mounts and slide it forward off the tranny, then R&R PP/disc/etc, and reassemble. It only takes a few hours typically. Depending on how bad you think the flywheel is - I have an EA82 flywheel that you could swap me for and have surfaced in advance so it's ready to go. I'm in West Linn so probably pretty close to you. GD

If all else fails you can thread 1/4" nylon rope into the #1 cylinder on the comp. stroke till it can't turn over. That works as well. Typically I use the "hand impact" method with ratchet and hand-sledge because it requires no battery, no starter..... no car in fact. That and I don't like bumping starters and throwing breaker bar's into the neighbor's yard. I've done it, but it's a pretty unprofessional move IMO. GD

Yes - it's very small. I don't know the exact dimentional difference with EA82 carb vs. EA82 SPFI, but I know that EA71 pistons are about .008 - .010" taller than EA81 pistons and give a ratio increase from 8.7:1 to around 9.3:1 when combined with .020" off the heads. That was off some calculations I ran years ago when I built up an EA81. GD

Turbo pistons (which are also MPFI engines) have indents - they are 7.7:1 ratio pistons. N/A pistons have valve cut-out's but are not "dished" like the turbo pistons. GD

Carbed engine is 9.0:1 SPFI/MPFI are 9.5:1 The difference is the pistons. They are taller above the wrist pin's. Not worth the difference in HP for an N/A engine though. Too much work for too little gain without further mods. GD

What "smog garbage" are you refering to? Muti-Port FI or Single Port FI? GD

Yep - I've seen them fall out as well - very common on worn 4 speed's. Just swap it with a 5 speed - it's on it's last legs and not worth rebuilding. GD

For more power you need more fuel and more air. You are already forcing the air into the engine at higher than atmospheric pressure with the turbo and so if you want more of it you have two options - increase the pressure, or increase the volume. Since increasing the pressure is out of the question for this engine you need to determine where your bottleneck for volume is located (if there is one). Ports, valves, or the CFM of the compressor wheel on the turbo - a larger turbo will flow higher CFM at the same pressure. But it may be that you are already approaching the volumetric efficiency of the engine and thus the only way to increase the volume would be to increase the displacment. I suspect that if you want more power you will end up needing higher boost. We all know that it's a mistake to do this with a stock engine so if you want that you will need to o-ring the block, replace the head bolts with studs, and change out the pistons. With careful management you could probably see 175 HP or a bit more. But the cost is high for that type of custom work and you may not get it right the first time around. That's why you see so many people doing EJ swaps. A non-turbo EJ22 with 200k on it will handle 5 psi all day long and twice on Sundays making 200 HP. You can pick them up under any rock for the price of dinner at a nice steakhouse. GD

rockauto has the grey top's for $32.79 each. Maybe more than you were looking to spend but thought I would mention it in case you were considering a new set. GD

1/2" ratchet + socket. Smack the end of the ratchet handle with a sizeable hammer that has some weight. I use a hand sledge. Repeat until the bolt comes loose. You could prop a breaker bar against the frame rail and hit the starter - though I prefer the first method. Possible that it's too tight for the 1/2" gun. Just do one of the above. You should get used to using the first method as it's the best for junk yards. GD

Don't mess with hooking up the hard-lines from the EGR/Advance to the carb - just run new vacuum hose from the carb to the devices you want to run. You don't need the idle-cut solenoid. GD

I haven't had a bad EMPI yet - though I think I have a boot going out on one. They have been good to me for the price. GD

Are you sure there isn't some other reason that it's difficult to steer? Bad strut tops, improper tire inflation, etc? How much power are you expecting it to have? GD

Pretty typical, yeah. They rarely fail. Don't worry about it - worst that could happen is you lose PS and have to use your arm strength to turn the wheel - it's not that big of a deal with a Subaru. GD

I can tell you right now those blocks are too thin unless you sleeve the bolts or reinforce them from the open sides. Anything thinner than 1/4" wall thickness will be smashed (the sides will bow outward or the whole block will start collapsing to the side). I've seen this first hand with a 4" lift on an EA81 - 3/16" wall thickness was used and the blocks collapsed and the bolts came loose. It will be ok if you aren't doing any of the rough stuff at all - just driving around town on the street is ok. But when you need to get some suspension action going..... bad juju my friend. Also - I no longer through-bolt my blocks. I use the stock body bolts on the top of the block and a new set of short bolts/washers on the bottom - this way no amount of flex in the block will cause the bolts to loosen or rip away from the body and the required hardware is much cheaper and you can use SAE. Yes - it makes it harder to tighen them but it's worth it. You just get in there with a wobbly and a long extension. Also I don't drill out the blocks for a clearanced hole - I tap them and thread the bolt into the block and then use a fender washer/lock nut/nut on the other side as a locker. GD

Depends on the dealer - mine gives me local shop prices (they call it "cash wholesale) which are comparable. It's about dead even after shipping so I just deal with my local dealer instead. There's just no big win for ordering online. And the more business you take to them - they more they see your face, etc - the cheaper the parts get. With a local dealer it's about building a relationship which isn't effective for a lot of folks either because they do too little business with them or because their dealer parts department is staffed by asses or those who are not friendly to your vintage. GD

Do it. Shouldn't be a problem. GD

Somewhat desireable for a rural postal carrier. Otherwise unless it's pretty nice and you can find someone interested in doing a JDM twin-turbo swap or something..... not all that desireable. As a "car" it's got a limited audience as most people just looking for something to drive will not want the oddball RHD postal legacy. I would likely pass on it myself - I buy to fix/resell though so it wouldn't make any sense for me. If you just want it for transportation and are willing to wait for a postal carrier to buy it off you then by all means. If you find the right person at the right time it could be an easy sell for a decent profit as postal Jeep's are expensive and hard to come by for the rural carriers - thus the reason Subaru made the RHD Legacy's for the US market in the first place. GD

It's a normal 60k service. 60, 120, 180, 240, etc. Timing belts and all that. Sounds like you already took care of it. It's in your owners manual if you have one. GD

Bumper, lower grill support, marker light, fender. Easily done for around $100 at most yards. Get some matching paint ~ $100 in materials for paint/prep. Shoot the fender, grill support and lower bumper off the car - re-black the top of the bumper. Install. You will have some straightening to do on the core support where the fender bolts on - but it doesn't have to be perfect since the fender hides it and it's not visible from the engine bay. A LOT cheaper than the Sentra to repair. GD