GeneralDisorder

Yep - under the air bleeds you will find the Emulsion Tubes - those should be F50's in almost all cases - good to remove them for cleaning though so I always double check. I have found a few oddball e-tubes before. Bend a 3/32" hook in the end of a paper clip wire - use that to pull the e-tubes from the base - you reach down inside and grab them through one of their air holes and pull them out. Sometimes they can get pretty stuck so soaking like you did helps. There's not much to the Weber's - anyone can rebuild one and jet it properly if they have the recipe for their engine. The trick is tuning and setup on them. Getting them to idle correctly with smooth progression and no deiseling on shutdown. It's a balancing act of idle speed, idle mixture, timing, etc. GD

Looks good - should work fine I would think. Primary/Secondary jets should be 140/140. Primary/Secondray air-bleeds should be 170/160. For an EA81 I like a 50 or 55 idle jet. EA82's like a 60. GD

rockauto.com Any Beck/Arnley dealer Retrofit some used EJ mounts Make your own Etc..... GD

Interesting - so do the sensors have the same number of pins, etc? Do they both have the same brand of ABS unit? If so I would say it's just a plug difference and they can be swapped - the sensor's are just hall-effect sensors and should all pretty much work on the same principle. GD

+1 to both of those. I'm getting less and less inclined to be bending over engine bay's - though I rarely work on EA82T's. My turbo car is not much more fun to wrench on but at least it's reliable and FAST so I can justify the extra work Personally - I would remove the engine. Then part out the car so I didn't have to put it back GD

If you search in the retro-fitting forum a bit it should give you an idea of the job. Basically the engine and exhaust bolt up with no mods. The intake is different so you have to use an EJ22 from an OBD-II car (96 through 99) and a manifold from either an EJ25 phase II, or there are wireing modifications I think that can allow you to use the EJ22 manifold if it's new enough - basically the car's computer will run the EJ22 with no problem - it's just a matter of giving it the manifold w/sensors that it wants. They are MUCH more reliable engines than the phase-I or phase-II EJ25's so if the car is nice it's probably worth the effort. Plus once the conversion is done, EJ22's are a dime a dozen since they rarely fail. GD

Most of the EA81's that didn't have feedback carbs had ASV's on both sides. Some are vacuum operated and some are not. Cut the steel tube about 2" from where it threads into the spacer under the head - put a quarter down in the bottom of the threaded port on the spacer and thread the 2" section of the tube back one. Eliminate anything else that was connected to the tube. Do the same for both sides. The low compression is probably exhaust valve seats. To fix you would have to pull the heads. The ticking could be exhaust leaks or it could be lifters. The lifters are accesible only with the oil pan removed and the push-rods loosened. If they are ticking it likely means they are dirty or worn - you have good solid oil pressure so that's not the problem. Try replacing one quart of oil with ATF for a while. The shaking at idle is probably a vacuum leak or a lean miss. Check for vacuum leaks and check how hot your spark looks and regap your plugs if you haven't done it recently. GD

The AC system does not have to be touched - just dismount the compressor from it's bracket and flip it off to the side - your manual is wrong about that. As for the head gaskets - your engine is an EA82T (T for Turbo) and is notorious for blowing head gaskets and cracking heads. While the head gaskets can be done in the car, it is easier to pull the engine. Everything you need to know about this engine is here on the forum - just do some searches for EA82T and EA82T head gasket, etc. You'll quickly find out all you need to know about them. If it's got a lot of miles and you think there may be more to the HG problem than just the gaskets (cracked heads, etc) then just get rid of the car. Those turbo engines are more trouble than the are worth and it would be better to get a non-turbo model or a first generation Legacy (EJ22). GD

Do an EJ22 swap. $1000 or less for a good used engine or donor car and not that hard to swap in. More reliable with a minimal hit on the HP (30 or so). GD

Are you sure you aren't moving two teeth instead of one? It's really easy to miss a tooth. And if the teeth mesh - then there is the same number of them - ergo it shouldn't matter where the teeth are cut in relation to the cam profile. There are enough teeth that the slot's for the distributor can move fully between the increment's of the gear teeth. GD

Yep - replace the pump. The bearings went out and are probably not seated in the housing anymore. You'll have to remove the timing belts and replace the pump. Don't forget to replace the heater core bypass hose when you do it. GD

They are typically the "trapped washer" style bolt where the washer's can't come off (they spin above the threads). But yeah - lockwasher would be prefered over just a flat washer and I don't think I would use a bolt by itself. GD

And it was a pleasure to work on too - simple and easy the way I like them. He has a 32/36 DGV-5A (manual choke) from carbsunlimited.com. My only complaint is that (like Redline) they send the tall filter element and those don't fit properly under the hood of non-lifted Subaru's. The other bothersome part is that the fuel inlet is on the wrong side of the carb so you have to yank that out, tap it to 1/8" NPT and install a new barb plus cap the other side off for it to look right and be routed nicely under the hood. The carb was poorly assembled (Weber's fault I'm sure) - I had to re-center the secondary butterfly as it wasn't closing completely - couldn't get a proper idle speed with the secondary slightly ajar like that. The new one I bought a few years ago had a malajusted float level - all relatively simple fixes but sad that I would have to dissasemble two brand new Weber's for adjustment right out of the box. Maybe you could blame the float on shipping but the butterfly was flat wrong. Hard to believe you can't get these in NZ? GD

Speedi-Sleeve's are not typically sold by application (though some are) they are a generic seal surface repair and are availible in any size you could want. You just have to get out the Mic. and find out what size you need. They are sold through industrial supply and bearing/seal houses - check with McGuire, Applied Industrial, etc. JB weld would not be the product to use, but there is a product called DevCon that could be used to repair it - but the process would be to remove the crank, fill the area and turn it on a lathe. You might get by for a short time with filling the area and then fileing and sanding it smooth but I don't think I would try it unless it were my personal vehicle. Not a professional repair. Of course if you were going to remove the crank then you would just have it spray welded and ground. GD

Speedi-Sleeves can be had in any size you like. Just find a dealer and place your order. GD

Part it. Not worth the trouble. GD

You have a single port - the dual port means it was either MPFI or Turbo. After 90 they didn't make either one for the Loyale. 91+ Loyale's are all SPFI thus they are all single-port. GD

The stock computer will not support much if you plan to throw big boost at it. It simply does not have the capability or programming for boost enrichment and will not "understand" positive manifold vacuum/pressure (higher than atmospheric). There are piggy-back solutions that can handle some of the issues - go over to the legacycentral board and do some searching around there. The biggest problem is that you will need larger injectors to support the boost enrichment but the computer will think you still have the stock small injectors - it will run super rich when it's not boosting. You'll want at least a wideband O2 to tune it properly and I would strongly sugest Exhaust Gas Temp sensors on both banks to monitor for a lean condition. In my opinion those three are the minimum additional gauge requirements for turbo-charging with a non-stock setup. I would also want cylinder head temp and coolant temp in accurate digital format's. GD

Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere downstream of that black fusible link. Start pulling fuses till you lose the short on your meter. If that doesn't do it the short is on an unfused circuit (fusible link only) or before the fuse box. First thing - check the connector from the harness to the ignition switch. Those like to melt sometimes and then you can get a short as two connections touch when the plastic melts away. GD

Yeah - it's easy enough to pick GL locks. Then just take the passenger door lock cylinder to a shop and have the new keys cut from the code. GD

It makes *sense* that you wouldn't want the steering to lock while the car is in gear..... maybe it's just usually broken or something. It's pretty typical that you can't shift out of park when the key is not turned on and your foot isn't on the brake - there is a brake pedal interlock with the shifter. I just haven't experienced the key interlock. I avoids automatic's and most especially the 3AT in the EA82's so it's entirely possible that I have overlooked this system since it doesn't apply to my cars. GD

Intersting - I'm not aware of any interlock mechanism between the key and the shifter on the EA82's. I just went out and tried it on the '87 coupe I have (FWD Automatic) and you can turn the key off and remove it in any gear. Perhaps the Loyale's have this feature..... I don't remember having that feature on the Legacy auto I just sold either. Hhhhmmmm - maybe someone else will know. 8 years around here I've never heard of this either..... perhaps I've blocked it from my mind from hating on the automatic's so hard. Give the graphite a go and see what it does. Never a bad idea to add some graphite to your locks anyway. Can't hurt a thing. GD

The lock mechanism is likely eating itself internally and all the metal bits are loose and sometimes binding, etc. Graphite may work to free it up but it should probably be rebuilt by a smith or just replaced with a good used lock. I would get a can of the graphite that has oil in with it and see if I could get some of that to flow past the key then grab the key with pliers and work it back and forth as much as possible without breaking the key. If the key absolutely won't come out then pull the steering wheel and column covers and remove the whole lock. Take it to a smith and have the thing repaired the right way. GD

That would be the main output from the alternator most likely. That's the main supply wire to the fusible links (main junction). GD

If you like the Forester then by all means keep it - if the engine blows up you can install an EJ22. How much of the work/maintenance are you going to be doing yourself? The head gaskets aren't a big deal if you can do them yourself - but it's $1000 to $1500 to have them done right at a shop if you can't. The '98 was the only year Forester with the DOHC phase I engine. The '99 and up have the phase II SOHC engine - much better IMO as they don't overheat unless run low on coolant - the leaks in the HG's on them are external. The phase I's also seem to have a lot of issues with piston slap (annoying, but not fatal) and quite a few people have had a rod failure - probably from being overheated due to neglected HG failure. The rear wheel bearings have issues - replace them with Legacy rear bearings to end the failures. GD