GeneralDisorder

What do you need? GD

Between the valve and the metal pipe is the best place for the quarters. GD

There's several choices it would seem. I have heard anywhere from $25 at a radiator shop to it not being worth it at all. I know a place that dips car bodies that could likely do it here in Portland. I would guess their price would be somewhere around $100 or less. There is also the POR-15 gas tank repair kits that come with flushing and cleaning fluids as well as a sealer product that is supposed to even seal small leaks. That's around $75 for the kit. That may be the way I go with my GMC as it makes the inside of the tank basicaly impervious to further corrosion - which would be better even than a new tank. GD

Probably, yes. Vacuum hoses and such mosty I should think. GD

Pretty straightforward - just drain about 1/4 of the coolant from the radiator (there's a drain-cock on the passenger side at the bottom), and then remove the two 12mm bolts at the thermostat housing and pop it open. If the bolts are rusted take your time - spray them with a good rust penetrant and work them back and forth to loosen the rust. Then you scrape or wire wheel the gasket surfaces clean, drop in the new thermostat and a new gasket (dealer for both is highly reccomended) and install the bolts again (anti-seize after wire-wheel treatment of the threads, etc) and put your coolant back in. Work carefully getting to the thermostat housing so as not to break any fragile plastic vacuum nipples, etc. Twist the rubber hoses to loosen them before pulling them off, etc. Work slowely and carefully and label things as you go if you aren't familair with them - take your time and you should do fine. GD

+1 on the silverstar's - good bulbs. I don't like the JDM/EDM headlight assemblies simply because they are glass. With the plastic you can buff them out and clean them up. If the glass cracks you are screwed and you can't just pop down to the local yard and pickup a replacement. I'm not a fan of the HID stuff either - blinding and dangerous and uneccesary IMO. The HID "kits" are to be avoided for the most part since the reflectors in the stock assemblies are not designed for the high output and will not focus the beams properly. If you need more light get the Silverstar's, or a set of aux driving lights or offroad lights if that's what you need them for. GD

The PS rack in my '84 wagon leaks quite a bit - but I've pounded the hell out of it off-road for years and for a long time it had bad boots because I was too poor to afford them from the dealer and didn't know any other sources till rockauto came along - I had tried a few stores but without any luck. As for more failures - well it might just be due to heavier vehicles with more power, bigger brakes, etc. It's possible to punish them a lot harder with 170+ HP and twin-pot brakes than it is with 80 HP and 13" rims. GD

One simple thing - since it's related to temp - check that the choke is closed when it's cold and that there is power to it, it's openeing as the engine runs, fully open when at running temp, etc. Pull out the secondary idle jet and inspect the hole in the tip of it - you may not have a secondary idle jet but often the Weber's do. It is used to assist in progression from primary to secondary - which could be part of your problem at mid-throttle. It's a quick check. After that all the ignition components should be checked for sure. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Clean and regap the plugs and see how it runs if you can't replace them all right now. GD

Front main is in the oil pump housing - that's a not-uncommon leak area. Same with the cam seals - those are the biggest source of oil leaks on EJ's. GD

Yep - Generally the mesh "sock" actually touches the bottom of the tank or is very close. Plus you have the saddle pump on the legacy's constantly transfering fuel over the differential hump to the pickup tube side which sucks crap from one side and stirs it in with the fuel on the other side..... it's a mess in there and frankly if the tank is dirty enough to clog the pickup tube sock it's time for a new tank or time to have it boiled out/coated. GD

I let the light come on all the time on all my rigs. Hasn't seemed to bother any of them. But here on the west coast we don't get any real rust so unless the car has been sitting or something..... I've never experienced a problem with a Subaru due to sucking up crap from the tank. That probably applies to some other brands but Subaru's have their pickup tube at the bottom of the tank anyway so I'm not convinced it makes any difference. Additionally - the electric fuel pumps they use are pretty much impervious to small foreign objects - and if the filters are changed none of that stuff really makes it through to the injection system (or carb). Anyway - just my experience - I've never had an issue with running them right down to fumes. Never had a clogged tank and no filter that I've replaced has needed replacment again durring my ownership. My '69 GMC being the exception - tank, pickup tube, float, etc are all a rusted up mess inside due to sitting for decades - it was a camper truck and apparently sat without fuel in it for long periods. I've got multiple filters in there - before the pump, after the pump, and a new pickup tube/float with new sock on it. I'm still cleaning the filters out of crap and I had to put in a regulator because the mechanical fuel pumps keep clogging their internal relief valves an want to put out over 10 lbs. . I'll probably end up changing the tank or coating the inside of it. GD

When you release the tensioner it will pull the right side cam into alighnment. Ultimately they are never perfect - just as close as you can get to the marks. If it's off by a tooth it will be WAY off - look at the distance the pulley has to travel to be off a whole tooth. Ususally they are within half a tooth or less of lining up with the rear cover - that will be correct. GD

Lucas is crap - it foams at high speed. Don't put additives in your oil's. Only thing that should be in oil is OIL. If the manufacturer thought it would do any good over the long term they would have added it at the refinery. GD

A lot of factory EJ's used solid pulley's. I'm not sure what the criteria was for which one's got harmonic's and which one's did not - but I've seen both. In fact the non-harmonic seems to be more common. Most of the EJ22's in the 90 to 94 Legacy's have solid pulley's. They are not keyed to the shaft - just held in place by bolt tension. GD

EA71 or older by the looks of it. Nothing newer than the EA81 uses anything close to the design of the pushrod engines. Being you got it from the dealer I would say EA71 because I doubt they even have any pumps for EA63's or older left in inventory. They may have got it confused with a STD model part number or if the car is very early (80/81) then it may have referenced an EA71 if they aren't very familair with the old stuff. GD

5k RPM is a lot of air-flow. Engine's are just air pumps. Where is the air comming from if the throttle is closed? The throttle opens one way and one way only on the SPFI - with the accelerator cable. It's all well to consider other possibilities like the idle air control valve - but I've never had one rev up that hard. 1500 - sure. 2500...... *maybe*. 5000 - no es beuno. I would have to experiment with it to see if it's even possible but my gut reaction is that it's not - at least within the bounds of how much air the IAC can provide through it's little hole under the throttle body. I've had them malfunction and the idle does get higher but not by 4 grand. It just can't suck that much through it's 1/2" ID drinking straw of an air supply line. GD

Check the rotor to make sure the screw hasn't fallen out, etc. GD

I put EA82 seats in my hatch - found a nice set at the junk yard for $30 and just made some adaptor brackets and welded them to the seat for proper mounting. I moved both rails inward the same amount to keep the seats centered. GD

Rip it out and cap the lines - you don't need it. GD

I don't run EA82T's.... . Are you saying you have blown one up due to preignition from bad plug wires? Turbo's have problems with detonation anyway - it's because of cylinder pressure's and fuel mixture issues. That's just something you have to watch out for with forced induction. GD

Ignition and detonation *are* two different things - the former happens when the plug ignites the mixture - the latter when something hot, or shear cylinder pressure causes the mixture to spontaneously ignite (no spark). You would have to see the EJ plug wire routing to understand - the wires are not real close to each other and it would take some really bad wires to induce a spark in an adjacent cylinder. In practice this just isn't a concern. GD

Why? ATF is used in transmissions is it not? What do you suppose is inside the Subaru automatic's? Unicorns and rainbows? The only thing the ATF isn't rated for is the hypoid gears in the front diff. 100 (easy) miles won't hurt them though. Hell - people put 100's of thousands of miles through them with broke-down, sheered-off, dirty gear oil that should have been changed in a previous decade. GD

My speculation is that it would help mostly when the engine is cold - the cold cylinder walls tend to collect droplets of fuel like a cold soda can in a warm room - the fuel is then vaporized but not burnt durring the combustion cycle and the extra spark durring the exhaust stroke lights it off. It may also help at WOT conditions where the fuel is at a much higher ratio than at idle or criuse. WOT mixtures can be as saturated as 12:1 or more with turbo-charging. Especially with turbo's as more fuel is added to cool the combustion - some of that rich mixture just isn't going to burn and so the extra spark has a chance to take some of it out before it gets to the cat - takes some of the load off the cat under the right circumstances. GD

Just about 0. LOL. That's a 9.5:1 compression block in an engine that's got all the same problems (too numerous to discuss here) that the 7.7:1 comp. turbo block's have. You'll pop the headgaskets or worse (think holes where they shouldn't be) if you turbo it. On the bright side you can rest assured that cracking the block will probably not be a problem - that never happens. Big, gaping cracks in the heads, sure. But the block will take it. You should do some searches on the EA82T and what it's failings are before you decide you want to turbo that heap. The EA82 with SPFI in it's non-turbo form (your engine) is an *ok* engine. They will last a long time if maintained and if you can stand the timing belts and the quirkyness of them - turbo it and you'll be crying in your cheerios. GD

Synthetic is not fake - it comes from the same crude oil (yes - from the earth) that the dino does. It's just in how it's refined that it differs. Dino oil is filtered, seperated, chemicals are added, etc. Sythetics are done in a couple ways - one of the most common - invented by Standard Oil (Chevron) is to vaporize the oil (vacuum boiling typically) - at which point all the contaminates don't vaporize and thus are removed. Then the oil is brough down to normal pressure again after some other processes remove the sizes of carbon chains that are not wanted for the final product. But it's still oil - from the ground. And it has it's uses for sure. It's just not often justified for consumer products like automobiles IMO. The cost and the added complexity needed to use it properly (analysis, etc) is beyond what most consumers are willing to take on. GD