GeneralDisorder

C3's are the common spec. It's the tollerances between the the balls and the race. C1's are very tight - used for machining equipment and high precision stuff. C3's are much looser and if they aren't labeled they probably are C3's. But I wouldn't want any chinese bearings anyway. Even Taiwan is better. Japanese bearings are good. Germany and Poland make nice bearings as does the US if you can find them. 6000 series radial thrust bearings are common as dirt. There are 10's of thousands of applications just for the 6207 I'm sure. Automotive isn't one of the common one's. You can't find a local bearing house? Everyone should stock them - McGuire is who I go through in Portland. Every major and most minor cities have a bearing warehouse of some kind. GD

Basically there are little pins that are spring loaded and they hold the shift rods from moving easily in and out of gear. The pins are either small ball bearings or sometimes when they operate on multiple rods they are oval shaped - the round end fits into a notch in the shift rod and spring pressure keeps the rod from moving around. Something is missing or broken - the pin has fallen out or the spring has failed. It will require a tear-down to fix it but it's probably not a major overhaul unless that's what you want - replace the offending pin/spring etc and it will likely work fine again. You will want to investigate *why* it failed - if the spring broke that's one thing, but if the pin has gone missing then you'll want to check on the clearances with the rod to see how it could have come loose. Something might be worn or need adjustment. GD

Other than the u-joint still beating itself up - without a load on it, it should be fine yeah. Can't be any worse than leaving the whole shaft in there. Won't hurt the tranny either way - just leave it in 2WD and you won't notice a thing. You could remove the front shaft and just install the slip yoke back into the transmission (after removing the u-joint) and keep it in place with a few large zip-ties. As long as you have it there to keep the gear oil from draining out and you keep in it 2WD so there is no power to the rear output it would be fine. GD

You can do it if you don't have an automatic - if you have an automatic (either the 3AT or the 4EAT) you will damage the transmission if you drive it without the driveshaft in place. You will burn up the rear drive engagement clutch pack. You may be able to put the FWD fuse in and limp around for a little while, but that's not a permanent solution. In addition - in case you aren't aware - the u-joint's are not technically serviceable. They are staked in place and must be removed with care - direct replacement's are not availible but there are options if you match them up by size to aftermarket u-joints. I beleive something for a Toyota fits - probably many other's as well. Just be aware it's not as simple as replacing the joint. GD

Looks pretty mild. The overlap isn't what you would want for a high RPM race cam, and the durrations are pretty short. When you start to see overlap above 40 or 50 degree's you are getting into that questionable idle quality range, and really prolonged durration's are often seen as well - 250+ degree's. It would likely have less overlap if it were for a forced induction application so it's probably an NA grind. Sounds like a relatively stock cam with good "street manners". I don't know the stock grinds for lift and durration so perhaps it's been modified in those respects - though from what I understand of the EA82's you can't change the lift much due to the design of the cam cases and need to be able to insert the cam into them. GD

It *could* have points if someone really had wanted them and swapped them in from an earlier EA71 - the distributor will swap over with only minor modifications (it's common to go the other way - EA81 disty into EA71)...... as unlikely as that sounds - I've seen stranger things on vehicles when they are in the hands of some "old timer" that doesn't understand or wish to learn about the electronic ignition module. GD

Just replace it with a good used HH - they are common and I'm pretty sure they didn't change the design of the valve much even through the mid 90's in the Legacy, etc. They can be rebuilt with new seals as well. It's not common for them to leak unless water has got into the braking system. GD

Yeah - if anyone wants a "special" socket for doing it - send me one and I'll turn it down on my lathe . I have carbide tooling for just such occasions. GD

Looks nice inside from that angle - who made those intake's? Looks like a fun carb setup...... GD

Don't be afraid to use it on dry pavement - just make sure the tires are the same size/brand and correctly inflated. It is differences here that will cause you problems - and of course turning sharp corners. You will not cause any harm or have any problems using 4WD any time you wish as long as you take it out of 4WD for tight turns on hard/dry surfaces. I've been using 4WD in Subaru's for a LONG time and unless you are lifted/welded with big tires you won't break or harm anything being in 4WD on dry pavement. Just observe the rules about tires/wear/inflation and put it in 2WD when you are taking a sharp turn, parking, etc. GD

I've never done it, but I would never attempt it either - not with a "factory" sunroof. The drainage system wouldn't be in place for it in a plain roof car. They do make aftermarket kit's that are designed for installation into plain roof cars though - I would look into that as they are designed to work without the drainage system. GD

The EMPI stuff suffers from the same problems of all the chinese brands to some extent - QA is poor. I haven't had one fail but I've heard enough stories to know they probably have issues with it. Guess I've been lucky. But for the price (and I get them local for $65) I can't argue too much. I give the shop a lot of business and they will take them back without question if I have a problem. Also - I think a lot of people don't know how to properly install the hub/cone washer and how to inspect them for damage. I beleive this, as well as mishandling/improper installation accounts for a percentage of the failures that have been reported. And lets not forget that engine and tranny mount condition have some sway in those premature failure's as well.......I've installed probably a dozen and so far I've not had to have one swapped out yet. Subaru runs a reman axle line through their dealerships - price is around tripple or more of the EMPI's. Around $175 to $250 for an axle - depending on model. GD

Did you change the fuel filter by the pump under the bed? GD

Sure - they exist. Not in '85 though. '80/'81 mostly. GD

Are you sure the power steering pump is good? Sounds like a massive internal failure to me. That bracket isn't going to bend - either it's installed wrong/loose or the pump is shot. GD

Just don't go any thinner than the EJ stuff. It might be better to take some material off, and also drill some holes to lighten it. I know Skip lightened a few - mostly for EA82T's I beleive. You might see if you can get ahold of him - though he might be in winter hibernation or something GD

That would be a STD, not a GL. GD

'83+ automatic's (including turbo) and all '85+ EA81's are hydro. I have an '83 automatic/coupe engine in my lifted wagon that's hydro. I have NEVER seen one with TOD. I own three personally and have worked on many, many more. EA81 hydro lifters just don't tick unless the engine has been abused or something. They are not the finicky things that EA82's have. GD

You won't lose any appreciable amount of torque. And remember - when it's in gear you have the weight of the pressure plate and the disc to help. The EJ flywheels are much thinner/lighter. Go nuts - just don't go so thin that it causes temp/warping issues. "starting torque" or the tendancy for the flywheel to assist with clutch engagement is an issue with larger, heavier vehicles and equipment. Mostly deisel stuff that's low geared to begin with. The flyhweel is so massive that the engagement of the clutch doesn't really slow it down much. With a Subaru this is not that big of a deal. Mostly they have big gnarly flywheel's on these things to help them run smooth with the 3-main crank. You might get some noticeable drop in idle quality, but that's about it. GD

No - you probably won't be able to tell other than the joint will likely not feel real tight anymore. Chances are you could clean/regrease/reboot the old axles and the vibration would go away for a time. Not worth it for the cost difference (~$25 savings per side), extra labor, and putting worn joints back in. $52 is a good deal. I pay about $65 local. GD

Bad front axle inner joint (DOJ). You need 23 spline axles. GD

Either the heater core is plugged, the heater control valve is plugged (or not working), or the coolant level is too low. Blown HG will not cause the heater to stop working. 190* is the proper thermostat - get one from the dealer and install it. GD

That depends on if you need to pass visual inspections and if you have an EA81 or EA82. If it's a GL as in your former post then it's not an EA71 as those came only on STD model hatcbacks in '85. GD

An '85 GL would not have a 1.6 - it would be a 1.8. Is this an EA81 or EA82? And does it have a feedback carb or non? GD

Obviously check all fuses and fusible links. Make sure the rotor in the distributor is spinning - timing belts can strip the teeth off and I've also seen pictures of broken cams, etc. To have spark the rotor must turn - verify it. If that's working then check the ignition amp on the coil bracket - that could have failed. GD