GeneralDisorder

Time for the blue-wrench I would say. Heat and lots of it. GD

What did the cone washer's look like? GD

I've never used anything on Head Gaskets - and never had a set leak either. I would say it's uneccesary at best and could cause problems with the gasket bonding to the sufaces at worst. Definitely chase all the threads, wire wheel the studs/bolts, and oil them durring installation and torqueing. GD

Your timing is fine. You may have some vacuum leaks. You need to figure out the source of that miss. If you want to pass you will likely have to replace the catalytic converter. The miss you have has surely destroyed it - unburned fuel will make quick work of a cat. The stock carbs are a real mess - be prepared for a fight to get it passing. GD

Single port came before interferance. I just sold a '96 that was a single port. I asked about this a while back and was "learned" on the differences. They did go to single port heads in '96 but it wasn't till later that they became interferance (and higher HP) as well. GD

The black canistors are the vacuum valves I spoke of. Remove them and block the manifold and carb body nipples. GD

Confirm - if there's no metal in the diff and the gears look good/tight then it's not your problem. I have only heard of a tiny handful of rear diff failures on Subaru's. It's very uncommon. The VLSD components are sealed with a special fluid and in any case don't even turn when going straight so can't really be associated with your problem. Are you sure it didn't have a nasty rear wheel bearing? Very common on the early Forester's and usually isn't audible till you hit freeway speeds. Otherwise I would also suspect the driveline - but if you find nothing there then I would have a look at the rear knuckles as it sounds like it could be a bearing. GD

My lifted wagon still has the Hitachi cruise control throttle cable setup on it. The system doesn't work and I don't have plans to fix it. Buy me a plain throttle cable to replace it and it's your's for the shipping. Or you could use an EA82 style CC setup where it's all on the pedal side. Might have to swap the pedal assembly for that to work - I'm not sure. Looking good though - you are moving right along with your install. Way to get stuff done! GD

Hhhmmmm - all Hitachi manifold's that I've seen were pretty much the same - you sure he didn't sell you a carter/weber? Those are quite a bit different...... I should detail how to bypass the metering ports for the Hitachi but I haven't had time. Ultimately I just plugged the majority of them. They don't work properly without the vacuum valve controls that open and close them under specific throttle conditions. I found that it didn't really matter for mileage. When I couldn't get the mileage up to a normal range I put on one of my Weber's and found that it wasn't the carb that was at fault for the mileage - the engine has a low cylinder. Still - it get's about 30 on the freeway. About 24 or 25 in town which is what the Hitachi got as well. So the metering ports don't really seem to make much difference in the end. Saving them isn't worth the trouble - just block both of them. GD

Glad you got it sorted out. It's not at all common sense that the heads would be interchangeable - such is not the case with very many engines. It's an understandable mistake. In the case of the old non-turbo's before EGR came on the scene - heads were interchangeable and you might not even know you swapped them GD

You need a good book on carb theory. Bigger is not always better. It causes huge driveability issues - especially progression from idle to main circuit and proper functioning of the idle circuit. The small engine does not create enough vacuum through a large carb to run the idle circuit, and similarly is not able to cause the progression mechanisms to function properly. You can put a huge carb on it - but without a matching race cam, and properly flowing heads you will see no benefit. But it will act exactly like a race motor in one respect - it won't idle for beans and it will have a huge flat spot off-idle. High RPM it could probably be jetted down to work - but unless you plan to drive around at 4 grand all the time I wouldn't sugest it. If you could find small enough jets and rods, something like a qaudrajet could probably work alright on the primary's, but I doubt you could get the secondary's to function with the availible parts as they are designed for V8's and large 6's. The Weber 32/36 is the right size for the engine. It's not much larger than stock and it's performance comes less from it's size and more from it's progressive linkage - the ability to open both barrels instantly from idle to WOT gives a boost in low-end torque or at least the rate of it's application. More than anything it just gives it a sporty feel and makes it a lot easier to service. They don't increase the ultimate HP at all without supporting mods. They are just a lot easier to maintain and tune when you *do* add supporting mods. A bigger carb will get you nothing without giving the engine the ability to use more air and fuel. As they sit, the Subaru engine's get all they can use from the stock Hitachi - if it were restrictive then you might have a chance, but they aren't. We use them because they Hitachi's are junk - not because they are too small. SPFI is better though as it requires no tuning. GD

Yes you need the SPFI distributor. Just posistion the existing distributor rotor to point at a landmark on the cap or the distributor body. Drop the new one in at the same orientation. If you screw it up then you have to find TDC of the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder and drop in the distributor to point at the #1 plug tower on the cap. Once installed properly you have to time it with a light. 20 degree's BTDC is the timing setting for all SPFI distributor's. You can get it roughly correct by turning the engine to 20 on the flywheel mark and then lineing up the distributor rotor with the #1 plug tower on the cap then locking it down. Final adjustment should be with a light. GD

You are welcome to do it here at my place and I'll lend a hand. I won't charge for that or using my shop/tools. I just can't justify doing the whole job myself as I have many, many projects to contend with. Pointers in the right direction while I'm working on something else I can handle though. You will need a base skill set. I need something to work with. . I can't run a tech school ya know . GD

The problem is that you need a boring plate to simulate the head being torqued down. The aluminium block will warp when the head is put on and your boring operation will no longer be straight. Few shops have a plate for these engines. If bored without the plate, the potential for cylinder liner's spinning is very high once the engine is run. What does that have to do with this discussion? I'm not sugesting he rebuild one. I'm sugesting he just drop in a used one. Plenty to be had for cheap in good running condition. GD

I have measured them and found them within spec even after 175k. Factory cross-hatch still visible. I'm not saying that it's impossible to wear one out - I'm just saying that if they are cared for they don't typically wear much over the life of the engine. I've seen more that still had the factory hone marks than I have seen one's that didn't. It's just easier to get a good used block than to pay for boreing and oversized pistons, etc. Because of the need for special tooling to bore them it's difficult to justify as there is no one local that will touch them. You can't base your opinion of an engine on a single example. Hell - my first EA81 blew a rod at 160k. No indication of abuse by the previous owner - rebuilt tranny, LUK clutch, clean, straight, etc. There are always a percentage of lemons with any engine. Casting flaws, assembly mistakes, etc. These things happen. Throwing away all the EJ22's because a single example failed on you shows your inexperience with cars and engines in general. It's a percentage game - 95% of the EJ22's (and EA81's) will make 300k. 2% will fail prematurely, and 3% will make 500k. It's a numbers game. Your experience seems more "real" than ours since it was your own. But I can tell you that myself and many other's here have owned a lot of EJ22's and personally I have yet to experience a major mechannical failure. GD

I've never had a 2WD trans around here to look at the seal area. On the 4 speed's you just remove the transfer gear section and replace the seal. Pretty easy on those - doesn't require dissasembly of the actual trans at all. If you post a picture I could probably point out how to do it. As for the mileage - pull the drain plugs and see how much metal is on them. You can also look up in the drain hole with a flashlight and see the ring gear, etc. Although that doesen't usually tell you much about the bearing condition. If you hear noises when you turn the input shaft then I would shy away from that unit. That usually indicates input shaft bearing failure. Incidentally, I think the 2WD transmissions may not have the front input shaft - similar to an EJ transmission. If that's the case they are prone to failure and it might be a good idea to open it up and replace at least the large rear input shaft bearing - that's the one that leads to input shaft play and eventually a whole lot of noise and metal. GD

They are 115 HP stock, yes. Turbone is saying that he has 137 HP *at the wheels*. Which is close to 150 at the crank I would say. He also spent more on the engine in his car than he did for the car. He's putting a "reliable" 10 psi into a completely rebuilt CCR engine. You can't assume that an EA82T with 100k+ will handle 10 psi for long. You are taking a big risk changing the boost on that engine. If you want it reliable you will have to replace the entire cooling system, add an intercooler, and DO NOT CHANGE the boost settings. Trust us - we have seen more people than we can count or remember blow these engines by doing exactly what you plan. If the head gaskets don't go, then the ring landings or something else will. The ONLY people that are doing a reliable (for how long - no one know's) 10 psi+ in an EA82T have completely rebuilt engines - either brand new short block's from Subaru or rebuilt from a reputable Subaru engine builder such as CCR. Gas mileage is pretty terrible compared to a non-turbo. 30 or very near it is possible with just about any of the non-turbo's from that vintage or even older/newer. 17 or 18 is typical with the turbo's. That's even what I get in my EJ22T - but of course I get 18 MPG for ~175 CHP (stock but with 3" catless exhaust - I'm probably being conservative on the HP). GD

No real differences - they are mirror images of each other. I usually do installs for about $100. Or you can do it yourself and I can just give you pointers. It's not that hard. GD

Boring typically isn't a good idea due to the cast-in cylinder liners. Without a bore plate they tend to spin in the block. It can be done but requires special tooling like RAM has. It's also typically not needed as Subaru bore's just don't wear out under normal use. It's much easier to get a good used block and give it enough hone to allow the rings to seat. GD

Pick up a used one on Ebay. They are simple carbs. Lots of VW people always selling them. Popular on Jeeps, etc. Last used one I got with good throttle shafts was $100. Adaptor plate is $37 around here, and a rebuild kit goes for about $30. Add a few jets to get it setup right and you can usually get one up and running for less than $200. I have a 32/36 DFEV sitting here that you could have for the $25 I paid for it. Needs a few jets and a rebuild kit. It's got sloppy throttle shafts but those can be bushed relatively easily with kit's availible for around $50 to $75. I prefer the DGV's myself so I'll probably never get around to using it. The Weber is totally worth it for the time/effort it takes to install them. Bring me a used one and a kit - I can rebuild them in my sleep. GD

As far as I know, the manifold bolts up exactly the same. The only thing I don't know about is the EGR passage - if it has one or not. SPFI manifold's from EA82's even bolt up. They are that similar. The dual carb manifold is no different - just built for two carbs instead of one. I've seen them installed on US market EA81 engines seemingly without difficulty. GD

I live very close to Mountain Tech. When you see their prices you won't be happy. I know people that used their serives - those folks use me instead now. The EA71 - built as you imagine (not the RAM version at 88 HP - that would likely be driveable) - would have a terrible power band. All high RPM (4000+), and little torque off the line. You will eat a top-starter transmission within a few HUNDRED miles with more than 100 HP. I've blown a few 4 speed's in my day - I've torn them down and even repaired one. They are junk under heavy loads. You get anywhere near double the power and you'll destroy them. Even the EA 5 speed's aren't good for much over 150 HP. An EJ22 with a 5 speed D/R would be perfectly fine in your car. There's another member here in Portland with an '82 hatch with that exact combo. Runs out very nicely. And there are dozens of other EA81 body cars and Brats with that combo. The EA81 Turbo Brat/Coupe/Wagon was right near 100 HP. The EJ22 is 133 HP. Not that much more. If you are destroying EJ22's then you are doing something wrong. And what exactly do you mean by "destroy". I don't consider having to replace some gaskets or loss of oil resulting in a seized motor to be the fault of the engine. That's poor maintenance. Properly maintained I'm not sure which would fail first - the EA81 or the EJ22 - both should easily do 350k+ with good maintenence. Though the EA81 might need a couple carb rebuillds, some distributor replacement's, and a whole lot of valve adjustment's to get there. GD

Terrible engine to start with if this is your first Subaru. Steer away if you still can - go for a first generation Legacy Turbo. The EA82T is junk as Subaru engine's go - perhaps the worst model ever produced. WRX/STi radiator won't work. Completely different in every respect. For one the EJ turbo's use a seperate pressure tank for the cap. The radiator itself hasn't got a cap. 10 psi is the limit not because of the fuel system - it's the limit of the head design and block interface. The bolts can't hold the gasket at higher pressure and converting to studs is expensive due to the oddball 11mm size. The primary reason people put the EJ turbo drivetrain in the RX is because the stock engine has no future at all. No aftermarket support, and it's a poor design for turbo-charging. 3 mains (compared to 5 on the EJ's), weak ring landings, poor flowing head design, troublesome timing belts, and weak head gaskets/head bolts. To fix it's problems would cost more than several WRX drivetrains. To increase it's reliable performance to close to stock EJ22T levels (165 HP) would cost more than a used WRX. Bolt on a few inexpensive mods to the EJ22T and it's beyond the EA82T in a flash. 250 to 300 HP are easily obtainable for $1000 or less in mods. The EA's can't hang I'm afraid. Seriously - take a look at the Gen 1 Legacy Turbo. GD

The longer you make the axles, the less angle they will run at for a given drop (obviously). Thus any length you can give to the axles and control arms, etc will be a good thing. As for "more than stock"..... 2" would be the most I would add to the drop without changing the transmission location. The Outback's are getting close to that anyway and you can use their axles if you swap over to a 5 lug (in the front). Rear's aren't as big of a problem as they aren't under compound angles from the steering knuckles. Though they can be over-extended as well. As for brands - if you are considering running 100% stock axles then you should get them from the dealer. They have an excelent quality reman axle program through SOA. I run EMPI axles mostly and have had good luck with them although the boots do eventually need replacement - I'm going to look into silicone or urethane boots to replace the rubber next time I have to do some. GD

A bit of a drive - but sure - if you want to come down this way I can likely fix it - assuming something isn't broken that I can't fix/don't have parts for. If you are going to make the trip - why not pickup a Weber and we can install that instead? GD