GeneralDisorder

If you use Outback struts on a Baja you would have to likely get a lifting spring or you may have tire rubbing, etc. And lifting springs will adversely affect the down travel..... They are reasonably priced from the dealer - like $149 each or something. They have plenty still. Just get the right part. It's not worth screwing around with stuff that isn't going to fit properly. I've been through this and we are ADF's official local installer. The best thing to do (for the moment) is to buy the correct parts from Subaru. GD

They are different and you can't interchange any other model. You have to buy them directly from Subaru. That is the only source if you want them to be the correct part. Run the parts through parts.subaru.com if you are curious. I've been through this many times and the Baja is a red headed step child of a car that uses quite a few parts that are entirely unique to it's chassis. Subaru doesn't sell full strut assemblies. You will have to be ready with spring compressors. And you should get new strut tops while you are at it. They are often bad or worn. GD

What is your secondary ignition voltage? A lab scope trace of the secondary ignition waveform would be a good place to start. Ignition modules die from heat. This is due high resistance in the secondary ignition, overly long dwell times, or improper cooling. GD

It's really not that "extreme". Many GM products from the 80's had similar setups. For the average consumer, they don't need to know what the exact temp is - giving them more information just turns into a customer service nightmare. We see this with AccessPort's on turbo models. Give the STI owner that barely knows how to drive an STI properly a bunch of internal ECU information and watch them freak out because they see some number change and they googled it and the interwebs told them their engine was going to blow up. GD

Head gasket. That's the only possible source. And this is technically an EA chassis so you will want to post in the old-gen forum. The Loyale was a carry-over of the GL from 89. GD

You are looking at 14" of the 10' long exhaust system..... trust me it's there. The scan data tells everything you need to know. First there is a complete absence of ANY codes related to the secondary sensor circuit - which would be present immediately if it were unplugged. Second, there ARE codes related to converter efficiency - which could only be generated by a secondary sensor that is sending data for the ECU to compare to primary sensor data. The fact that it has a P0420 code tells us it's there. All 95+ Subaru's have secondary sensors in the US. It was mandated by law. And if the OP can't get down there with a flashlight and find the sensor, or google image it's whereabouts on his model.... well I don't have the time to type out it's exact location. GD

Those are CANBUS serial communication faults. You should check the battery and terminals first. GD

You are both looking AT a bung. You should be looking FOR a sensor. Trust me it's there. GD

It's there. Look harder. The "MAF cleaner" is pretty useless. It's watered down brake cleaner. Just use full strength brake clean and you MUST scrape the elements with a pick. Otherwise you may as well just buy a new one. GD

No. You have a power supply problem.

All you have to do is pop the ball joint out of the knuckle. It's no big deal really. GD

Could always ship it to me and then drive it home. We have other customers in Colorado that come here for dyno tuning. Shipping from Colorado is typically around $750. A block replacement is likely somewhere between $6500 and $7500 done proper with forged pistons, etc. Dealerships are usually around $10k and you don't get anything other than stock. For turbos there's a LOT of upgrades that can make them significantly more reliable. GD

Not possible to make it FWD. 250k is pretty well done. I agree with your son. Replace the vehicle. GD

O2 sensors don't work when cold. If the problem is on first start and gets better as the O2's come online then that's not your issue. You have a lot of codes. You should probably start with a tune up (plugs and wires), clean the MAF (scrape the elements with a pick and use brake cleaner), and then clear the codes and test drive. Watch fuel trims, and see what codes return. Cylinder 4 misfire... if it doesn't resolve with a tune up you should do a valve adjustment asap as you may have a tight exhaust valve on #4 which will not end well if allowed to progress. GD

Not compatible. 99 is a phase II trans. GD

A and B are likely power and ground. Probably 12v but you need to follow the diagram. And you need to hookup the switching solenoid as well. FYI this sensor is critical for the computer to make fuel corrections based on altitude. GD

That compressor clutch is wrecked. Definitely need to replace the compressor. Check the idler pulley as well. You will need to replace as many of the system o-rings as possible, then pull a proper vacuum on the system and charge it with R134. GD

Post a video of this "loose" component. There's more to the system than power. Sounds like the belt was removed for reasons. Likely you will find out the reasons shortly. GD

You absolutely need that. GD

Use the entire intake from the 97 on the 99. All the sensor plugs on the engine are the same. If you find differences then swap the sensor. They are essentially the exact same car. You don't have to pull any drivelines if you dolly it. GD

They are the same and both are Phase I with the exception of the block case halves themselves on the 99. The only difference for you will be the 8 bolt vs. 4 bolt bell housing. Not an issue you will just leave out the 4 extra bolts that are not used with the 97 transmission. You will also want to use the 99's intake manifold which is a direct swap. GD

Change the fluid several times. No fix with the FWD switch and no AT temp flashing means it's a mechanical issue. Change fluid first. If that doesn't work pull the transfer clutch. GD

Pedal assembly should be easy - call John's in Gaston. I'm quite sure he has all that stuff. You will also need the clutch/flywheel, shift linkage, driveline, and matching rear diff if it's not the same. GD

You called and left a message at my shop - sorry I was on the other line. I'll just answer here though. Unfortunately I don't have any 3AT parts. You might call call John's Subaru in Gaston, OR. He's a Subaru specific junk yard. Also you could swap it to a manual transmission. Probably your best bet. Those 3AT's were $hit from the start and you can't get any parts for them anymore. GD

You can find stupid people doing stupid things all over the internet. Doesn't mean it's a good idea. You haven't seen how these are constructed of paper thin interleaved sheet metal discs with a silicone fluid injected into the housing and the hole sealed with a ball bearing peened into it...... trust me welding this mechanism would be a disaster and the results would be awful. I'm quite sure that young Billy-Bob and his cousin Skillet have done all kinds of things with their buzz-box stick welder that shouldn't be talked about in mixed company but it doesn't make it a smart choice. And for the record, a Viscous Coupling is not a differential at all - it is a form of limited slip device. It doesn't allow power transfer to be differentiated between a single input and multiple outputs - it allows slippage between the input and the output. The center differential assembly in the Subaru is composed of a differential in which one of the output spider gears IS the viscous coupler. GD