GeneralDisorder

There's nothing wrong with the 60k belts. The CA belts are spec'd to last 105k but that's really too long for the tensioners, idlers, and water pump on the EJ22E's.... IMO. It's cutting it awful close to a lot of water pump and idler bearing failure's I've seen. GD

The EJ22E is nothing like an STi motor. It's an open-deck block, good for maybe around 200-250 HP reliably under 4 or 5 psi boost - maybe upwards of 8 or 10 with slightly reduced comp. ratio. The STi engine's are capable of 800+ and the EJ22T's have been known to push 1000. Just putting on EJ25 heads will not lower it enough to enjoy the full benefits of forced induction. You need to change the pistons if you want to be able to boost 20+ psi. You have to change the entire engine cross-member to one that can accomidate the turbo exhaust, change the radiator to a turbo style (doesn't fit without mods), and add the upper water tank, hoses, etc. Drill the oil-return to the passenger side head for the turbo, blah, blah, etc. It's not a small amount of work and it's not something you want to "start" with if you aren't already familair with EJ turbo's. GD

He means the Maxima Alt - they are 90A. GM swap isn't worth it for the 100A version is what the reference is too. The large case GM's that do super-high output are just rarely needed unless you are running serious draw. The bigger you go, the more the neccesity to upgrade some of the harness to avoid potential issues with high current draw and overloading your wiring. If the battery is low for example - the alt now has the ability to melt your harness as the battery will have no issue drawing whatever the alt will push - bigger alt, bigger push. Stock alts are 50A for EA81, 55A for EA82. GD

Only the block is the same. From the heads on out it's entirely different. You would have to swap only the short block. If the "MPFI" is a turbo - forget about it. Compression is way too high on the SPFI block. GD

Just continue to spend "no money" on that lump and save your pennies for something that was meant to have forced induction. And no - no one makes a "kit" for it. If you want it you'll need a lot of parts, and more than a lot of knowledge to make it reliable. Sounds like one too many shade-tree types have been at work on that car. I wouldn't trust it to get me to work (let alone get me there any faster than it already rolls) with a cobbled together mash of parts like that. Run, don't just walk, away from that mess. GD

Depends on what you want.... 100% stock - 87.5 to 89 GL, D/R 5MT, SPFI 90% stock - '82 to '89 GL Hatch with D/R 5MT transplant. 40% stock - '82 to '89 GL Hatch with D/R 5MT + EJ22. That's as good as the '80's get's right there. Of course a low-mileage near-perfect Brat trumps all, but hey - not everyone can have one of those. GD

On the lever actuated transmissions, dry surfaces aren't so much of an issue (with stock sized tires). You can force it out of 4WD. With the push-buttons though they will not come out till you unbind them. You won't hurt anything as long as your tires are the same size/inflation. I use 4th gear Low range on my hatch because the 3rd gear syncro is totally wasted. I just skip 3rd, go to 4th low, then back into 2WD for freeway speeds. GD

If you want something to lift and play with get an EA81 Hatchback. The Loyale is not what you want at all. You need to look for an EA81 Hatch - 1982 to 1989. EA82's are too heavy, poor departure angle, etc. Plus the engine's suck and the cooling system's suck even harder. And a loyale has no low range - you would have to swap out the tranny first thing. At the very least hold out for a late '80's GL with a dual-range transmission. GD

A hydraulic press with a pressure gauge. You can't put more than a specified amount of pressure on them. GD

'98 is in that nebulous zone - could be either but probably the two-peice tensioner. You should check with the dealer. The ram-style (two-peice) tensioner is better and typically doesn't need to be replaced. Just the idler portion. As for the idler's - these things fail and this is EXACTLY why I can't stress enough that they should be replaced at every timing belt interval. Especially with belts lasting 105k now. GD

Typically I'm replaceing water pumps as well so with the radiator out it gives that much more room. Preventative maintenance - it's too cheap not to replace it IMO. GD

There are no special tools needed and no one ever pulls the engine for a timing belt job. Just pull the radiator and fans. GD

I wouldn't say the EJ18 is any more reliable than the EJ22. Both are excelent engines and the differences (valve train, and size) really aren't big enough to point out a reliability problem with either one. Also, the EJ22 is more availible as it was the only engine offered in Legacy's from '90 to '94 and the EJ18 didn't come onto the scene till the '93 Impreza was introduced. Both are good for 300k+ easily. GD

Yeah - Subaru clutches tend to shudder more than some other brands so it's always wise to have the flywheel turned and replace the pressure plate (and TO and Pilot bearings of course) with a new one. It's too far to go back in if something is wrong. GD

Engine is easier. And gives you access to more seals, etc. I always pull the engine. Only time the trans comes out of the car is if it's being replaced or the car is being parted out. GD

Never heard of them. But there are probably 100 different brands out there. And I'm betting most of them are made (or remaned) by the same factories. It's just the marketing people that rebrand everything and customize it for each store chain. GD

I usually just coat the splines (hub and transmission) in anti-seize. Grease works as well. Just a thin coat is fine. Glad you got it fixed and it wasn't as bad as you thought. That's often the case - people are more scared of doing something new than anything. Most jobs on Subaru's are far easier than other makes. GD

If the boots are intact then I would open them up - might just be that the grease has gone sour. Clean the joints out, regrease and reboot - they will probably work - slim chance they won't but the boots are cheap. GD

Some of us downshift in order to accelerate. I'm just saying...... Though I don't much care since I'll just tear the thing down and put in new syncro's when they start those shenanigans. GD

The Subaru dealer will also have availible remanufactured axles - which are similar quality to MWE, etc. I've heard excelent things about them, I beleive they run around $175.... in that neighborhood. Personally I use the EMPI axles - they are brand new and I haven't had an issue with one yet. EMPI is a well known brand and has a good reputation. $65 each and locally availible. You aren't going to hurt anything useing an impact on the axle nut - don't know where you got that from. I always impact them off. You can remove them without an impact - just put a 1/2" breaker bar or beefy ratchet on them and hit it with a 3 lb. sledge..... repeatedly. You'll eventually spin it off. It's basically a "hand impact". GD

Every manufacturer of filters has the ability to produce both high end and low end filters. I wouldn't be concerened that the OEM on them is the parent company of Fram. There's many, many products that you could avoid buying because the parent company also owns another unit that makes cheap throw-away stuff. That's business for you. Where there's a demand, there will be a product. GD

I'm assuming you have an automatic...... Could be a bad duty-c solenoid. Do a search on "duty-c", "dutyc", or "duty c" and read up on them. GD

The one-wire swap is stupid on anything but a race vehicle or something that has basically no electrical devices. It's only done so much because people don't understand the 3 wire remote sensing system. It's a much better system delivering more consistent power and has no real drawbacks other than it takes more than 2 brain cells to install it. I agree though - the quality of rebuilds in general seems to be really poor. I get the Bosch reman's for a good price and they seem fine for the half a dozen I've bought. Rebuilt parts in general are very poor these days. Axles, alternators, starters, etc are all largely junk and are almost worse in many cases than a carefully selected junk yard part. GD

Nope - 14.5 should be the max. If it's higher than that then the regulator is not working or the sense lead is telling it the voltage is low at the main junction. Where are you checking the volts? The alt is designed to put out enough voltage so the reading is 14.5 at the main junction (fusible links). Sometimes that means putting out more at the back of the alt though that generally indicates a poor wiring connection between the alt and the junction if it's more than a few tenths of a volt. 14.5 at the junction and 14.8 a tthe alt I wouldn't worry about - but over 15 is a problem. GD

Two long bolts on the top (one through the starter), and two nuts on the bottom. That's it. If it's not comming apart then I would say it's probably stuck on the dowel pins. Try driving a thin blade between the two - putty knife, etc. Sometimes it just needs to be pryed off the dowel pins. GD