GeneralDisorder

It will be a problem only if you aren't on slippery surfaces. You can drive all day in 4WD if you are on snow with mismatched tires. If you are interested - I have a nice set of agressive mud/snow tires with steel studs (no longer sold) in them that have never been run. They need mounting on 13" rims. I would let the set go for $125. They are Toyo 720 Snow Steel Extra's. GD

I dropped a rag into open timing belts once - broke both of them instantly :-\. I still run open though - 20 minutes to change vs. 3 hours. I'll take the risk. GD

They are dangerous off-road and so I rarely use them. If you *need* to roll backward because of a tipsy situation they can get in the way. GD

DUDE! - STEEL TOE boots. What are you thinkin man? This time it's not even accident. You should know better. I really like my Red Wings I got recently. Made in USA - hand stitched leather and all that business. $197 with my military discount and worth every penny. Comfortable, ANSI and CSA certified steel toes, puncture resistant sole plate..... lovin it. GD

Typically the cable breaks or it's not adjusted right so the cable get's removed. They don't really fail - they can leak but it's not common. GD

I have never used them even with cover's so I'm pretty sure you'll do just fine. I have run all mine without cover's as well and generally throw that thing away. The belts last such a short time that it's not worth trying to protect them - 50k and you'll be back in to clean and replace belts anyway...... GD

The VF11 is a better size for the EA82T though so you should consider that as well. And you can rotate the compressor outlet on the VF11 if you want to. They are both good choices - just depends on where you want the power to come on. The TD04 is going to be a bit higher than the VF11 just due to the size differences. I'm going to the TD05-16G on my 22T - the VF11 is just too small - always was undersized for my engine. Just about perfect for the 1.8 though I should think. 10 psi is all you want anyway...... GD

Sure it is. How much are you looking to spend? Cost, Performance, Reliabilty - Pick two. To do it *right* - put about 5 psi into the stock engine - used WRX turbo, intercooler, piping, complete exhaust system, engine cross-member, etc. Bigger injectors, fuel/ignition management, gauges...... Probably going to run somewhere around $3,000 to $5,000 depending on what you get and how much you know about building and tuning forced induction engines. It would be cheaper to buy a car that already has one. But if you really want it then there's no reason why you can't turbo it - hell you can turbo your riding mower if you really want to. GD

Nope - 4 bolts, rotate and pull. DO NOT pry hard on it. You will break the housing. Some people have found it neccesary to loosen the block half bolts in the vicinity of the oil pump. I've never had to do this - just rotate back and forth as you pull - sometimes I will pry VERY GENTLY as I rotate. It helps to have the oil filter still attached as a lever for rotating it. It's just bound up with oil varnish. GD

Between the water pump and the timing belt cover IIRC. There's likely a groove in the water pump housing for it if I'm not mistaken. GD

VF11 and TD04/TD05 have the same flanges (thus the same amount of work for either). The TD04 is easier though as the compressor outlet is not at a funny angle like the VF11. GD

I thought I read somewhere that on the DOHC engines they have intake/exhaust valve interferance but not interferance with the pistons..... or maybe its both. I could be wrong though. GD

Mouse nest perhaps? I've dealt with those before..... Nasty! GD

Did you clean and regrease them at that time? If you didn't that's probably 90% of the reason they won't move now. Lesson learned eh? ALWAYS grease the pins and replace any slide pin boots that are torn. Even here on the West Coast I see frozen caliper slide pins and we don't have any rust to speak of. GD

Best insurance you can get is to inatall a new radiator and replace all the coolant lines, thermostat, and radiator cap. Otherwise you run the very real risk of blowing out a head gasket or being stranded by a blown hose. Cooling system failures are the most common on your engine. GD

Well - *maybe* you could bolt it down with it backwards.... but the damper springs are supposed to be on the pressure plate side and if you turn it around the disc friction surface doesn't even touch the flywheel surface.... That would be a monumental "DOH!". I hope it's that simple for you. You'll be "learned" real good for next time GD

Realistically, these are 60k serivice kits. For the price just replace ALL the parts every time. They may be cheaper in quality, but the difference is negligible if you replace them as a maintenace item. Remember that Subaru NEVER reccomeneds replaceing the water pump and I've personally seen EJ22's with 200k+ that had the original factory water pump still going strong (scary, but dealerships do it and don't tell the customer it ought to be replaced so.....). For little more than the price of *just* the belt from Subaru you are getting every single part that could conceivably fail - thus virtually gauranteeing flawless operation *at least* till the next belt change - at which point you just replace it all again. It's not rocket science, nor are they swiss watches. It's simple economics and regardless if the vehicle is mine or I'm selling it - I would still use this kit for the price. If you think I would sell a car with substandard parts on it that I had any inkling were going to fail before the interval I have passed on to the new owner you are quite mistaken. What do you need that for? Just use a socket and ratchet. They stay in their respective posistions without much effort and it's a bit useful to be able to move the passenger side pulley a little as you put the belt on. GD

You need heat if you want to save them. Plain and simple. If you go the small propane torch route - get a bottle of Mapp gas. Burns hotter. The trick is to get as much heat to the caliper as quickly as possible - you want to expand the hole in the caliper while the pin stays relatively cool so it will break the rust and create a gap for lube. Failing that, get the whole stinkin thing as hot as you can and apply ice to the pins - shrink the pins away from the expanded caliper bore. Penetrant + heat = cappillery action. Take the whole bracket off the knuckle and find someone with an O/A setup. A minute or two with a rosebud and some penetrant (thinned ATF is just as good) will bust them loose. Only time I've seen red hot iron fail to release frozen rusted parts is when they were basically friction welded together. You'll lose the booties for the slide pins and probably the piston boot and o-ring but rebuild kits with all those parts are really, really cheap. GD

Good for cold climates. Never needed one here. Actually that is done on carbs and throttle bodies and is done both to keep the carb from iceing up and for emissions purposes. A warm intake atomizes fuel better and reduces unburned hydrocarbons. Bad for performance though - cold air is denser. GD

The difference is that they *do* break. Time is money for the pro. Snap-On, Mac, Matco, etc. have a lifetime warantee *and* you pay a fortune for their product because you won't be back to buy another one. They simply don't break. Broken tools are money lost. The pro needs to trust that they will not break - not even under abuse as it is sometimes required. The problem with a good percentage of the Craftsman stuff is that they are cheap, they do break (they don't mind giving you another because.... duh - their cheap!), and having owned some of those tools I would have to replace them every few months if not sooner. I do use a lot of Craftsman stuff - but there are items - screwdrivers are one of them - that simply aren't worth the metal and plastic they are made from. There is a WORLD of difference between a good screwdriver and a cheap one. They fit the screw, don't break, bend or chip, and can withstand the rigors of a real shop. Craftsman's "regular" line of screwdrivers don't even come close. There was probably a time when this wasn't true - I suspect it was sometime when my grandfather was a young man (born 1915). More than anything the Craftsman screwdrivers are just annoying as hell. I've broken way too many of them and do I really have time to return a single friggen screwdriver? Nope. Even my time isn't worth that little. For the $100 that a decent set costs I would rather not have the frustration. GD

I have taken to buying the Harbor Frieght 6 ton jack stands - invaluable if you do transmission swaps to get the car as high as possible. I beleive they are $39.99 regular but are often on sale for $29.99 Nice stuff - you won't regret the 3/8 cordless impact. I have a Rigid version and it's great. Take it to the junk yard all the time. I will caution you though - the "regular" craftsman screwdrivers (the big kit they always sell on sales) are pretty much junk. I did recently buy one of the "professional" screwdrivers and it's not too bad but the regular ones I don't like at all. I have taken to buying snap-on scredrivers. Sad, but what do you do? GD

You need a BIG hammer. Rotate that caliper up and smack it with some serious poundage. I like a 2-3 lb sledge for stuff like that. Also - sometimes patience is the best option. Soak with some penetrant or 50/50 ATF and mineral spirits (laqour thinner, whatever), Then..... WAIT. Seriously - douse in penetrant, wait 30 minutes and do it again. Then heat it with a propane torch till it's nice and toasty and douse with penetrant again while it's hot (don't use laquor thinner if you do this though). You want to get some cappillery action going. You *can* get them off. It's just going to take some patience and probably a bit of heat. If you can get access to an oxy/acetelene torch then you can take it off in a few minutes. GD

Yes - the bigger clutch works fine with the '82 4 speed D/R. GD

I did that to the middle finger on my right hand about 5 or 6 months ago. The nail is just now returning to normal - takes a long time. Mine got caught in a truck door. Boss made me go to the doctor for workman's comp CYA. Doc asked it I wanted the pressure relieved and I declined. Did it myself with a drill bit. I don't much like doctors - I was a combat lifesaver in the Army so I rarely see one unless I need chems. I go to the Doctor for a staph infection in my arm (needed a prescription for the anti-biotics - almost bought some online from Mexico instead ), and I get the third degree?! She's asking me if I'm a IV drug user? Says I have a lot of injuries on my hands and arms - what the hell? Yeah..... so I don't really like Doctors. GD

Depends on the model I think. Some came without. I know the Forester's have them and probably the Outback's as well but the regular L models often don't. Sometimes it's hard to tell since they get discarded very often. GD