GeneralDisorder

Incorrect - all EA81/EA82 series wheel bearings are 6207-C3's EA82's have a different diameter inner bearing SEAL. EA81's use the same seal on both sides while the EA82 uses that same seal on the outboard side but a small ID seal on the inboard side. GD

Most supercharger design's are rotary lobe blowers (roots blowers) which can't be driven by exhaust like that. Either that or they are screw style pumps. Being they are generally driven at engine speeds, they are "positive displacement" pumps - the amount of air they flow is almost directly proportional to their speed and there is very little or no "slippage" through the pump - that is that once air goes in, it can't go back the other way. They operate in that 3,000 to 10,000 RPM range - same as the engine. Exhaust gas can't spin the blower with enough force to do any kind of work. Basically the blower isn't efficient enough to extract any useful energy from the exhaust gases. Now turbo's on the other hand are what's known as a turbine. They operate on a completely different principle. The turbine is used to spin a fan which blows air into the engine. The fan must spin VERY fast to increase the pressure on one side of the fan by typically around twice that of atmospheric pressure. The reason it must spin so fast is that the fan is NOT a positive displacement pump. It has to overcome the tendancy for air to slip back across it's blades. The exhaust turbine uses the relatively low density of the exhaust gasses to spin the fan at speeds of around 60,000 to 120,000 RPM - the smaller the turbo the faster it spins as they are limted to speeds below where the tips of the blades break the sound barrier. Obviously you can't really do this by running the fan side of the turbo from the crank pulley unless the fan were very large or it were geared up with a REALLY big gear driving a teensy-tiny gear - which is how it's done in the world of turbine compressors. A 2' diameter gear drives a 2" diameter gear - but that's with compressor fan's that are 6" in diameter. A Subaru turbo has a compressor fan that's about 1" in diameter and as such the size difference of the drive vs. driven gear would be even more radical - that 1" gear would probably need a 10' diameter gear to drive it at the requisite speed with the engine turning 3600 RPM. Not practical. Turbo's work because they are highly effecient at turning the exhaust gases into work - the exhaust gases flow freely by the turbine wheel and impart force to it's blades as they pass. Lobe blowers can't do this - there is too much back-pressure from the positive displacement design and they are very inneficient - requireing 10 HP just to drive them at full engine speeds with a mechanical coupling...... GD

Did the improved extension cord and gas help? GD

Yeah - I don't have one to take pictures of at the moment. I realize that it would help to have a walk-through of both axle removal/installation as well as wheel bearings but I just don't have the time right now. It can be accomplished with a little common sense and a few hand tools though. GD

Year? Part number? That's awesome! How did I miss that one? GD

Looks like a cracked vacuum plug to me. Cut a peice of hose, slip it over the nipple, and stick a bolt in the end. You'll want to adjust your idle speed after you block it as you have fixed a vacuum leak and it should idle better. GD

Not a bad idea. Good used alt and a battery jump box. I've heard stories on here about people having to replace the Duralast one's three or four times and then throwing a tantrum at the store trying to get their money back. Usually works if you make a big enough scene on a Saturday when the place is busy. GD

You might want to upload those pics to something other than myspace. I don't do myspace nor any other social networking sites. And frankly most of the people here that have the knowledge you are looking for don't either - no time for that stuff. GD

Yeah - not much you could do given the circumstances so you didn't do too bad. Personally I avoid the Duralast stuff - frankly I avoid Autozone for anything other than emergency chemical and fluids needs after hours of my normal store. I get Bosch reman's for $135 after I bring in the core. Been good to me. The best are the Subaru reman's but those are about $225. I sometimes find them and pull them at the junk yards. GD

I already did - I outlined the procedure in my post above. What more do you need? I told you exactly what to get and where, as well as how to do it. GD

Shouldn't need the adaptor. All the 5 speed's after '94 use the larger adaptor for the shift rod. The 2.5RS kit should work I would think. GD

As I understood it, the bushing had to be bored out and it wasn't a particularly easy job. I take all mine to Philbin Manufacturing as it's not worth the hassle for the $75 they charge me to rebush and rebuild the vac can. GD

I would box in the whole thing. Making it smooth to the wheel-well side with no possibility of debris or water intrusion. What *I* would do is find someone who can cut the lower section of the fender off for you from the west coast - send that in a flat rate box. Then braze the sucker to your fender with a lap joint and all is well again. Very little prep and some paint. Then spend your effort making the patch panel to box in the inside so it can't hold water and debris. Or you could come out here and wrench with me - then just replace the fenders GD

If it's the 5/8" line you are talking about that runs under the EGR, etc. That is the heater core supply line.... I would try to find another intake from a board member. That's a tough one to fix for most folks. If I were going to fix it I would probably remove what was left of the old pipe, get some some tubing of the right diameter (metric steel tubing would be my first choice, but a hard copper of the right size might work as well...). Bore out the hole to the right diameter for the tubing if it wasn't already and then silver solder it in place. That's a very uncommon failure so I would try to find a replacement intake. You can use the EA82 intake if you use the matching upper radiator hose and either an EA82 Hitachi carb or a Weber with the right adaptor plate. If you have any EA82's carb models in the junk yard then just do that - or you can do the SPFI swap GD

Should be the same as for an EA81 if the compression ratio is the same. Compression ratio, not engine size, dictates what the numbers should be. But as long as they are over 100 psi it really doesn't matter what the actual numbers are - there are so many variations due to testing procedure, aparatus and environmental conditions that you can't effectively compare numbers. Each test should be veiwed as a unique entity - the only thing you are looking for is that the cylinders are within 10 to 15% of *each other*. The numbers should be somewhere north of 100 psi but that's about all I or anyone that knows anything about the inner workings of a compression test should be telling you. GD

Are you sure you can even set that gap? I thought it was fixed by the design of the advance mechanism..... been a while since I had one that far apart but...... GD

Probably not an intake gasket with all that milkshake. Intake gasket would cause it to burn coolant, possibly leak it out on top of the motor and overheat once it gets low - won't mix coolant and oil like that though. Make sure all the freeze plugs are in. Pull the oil pan as you need to clean it out anyway and check for freeze plugs in the pan. Otherwise - almost a for-sure headgasket there - I've seen milkshake to that level before and that's almost a sure sign of HG's or freeze plugs. Don't run it much or you will score the bearings and it will be junk. Might already have comprimised the rod bearings - I would be very tempted to drop in a replacement/EJ22 or do a rebuild and Delta Cam, etc. GD

Well Gary - I run comp. and leak-down tests on all my rigs when I get them. It doesn't stop me from buying them - I just want to know in case I notice the running conditions change later, to tell overall condition, and to thumbnail gauge what I might expect from the engine for the future...... My '83 hatch that I've been driving pretty much daily for the last two years has 240k on the motor. Compression test results were: 1: 165 psi 2: 135 psi 3: 160 psi 4: 165 psi That low cylinder doesn't affect it much. The gas mileage is the worst effect as far as I can tell - I'm around 26 MPG with my lead foot. But around 32 on the freeway. It could be 1 or 2 MPG better without that low cylinder I'm sure. Can't tell by the way she runs though. Purrs along like a kitten at 700 RPM with a DGV-5A Weber. Enough power to chirp them into 2nd. GD

I've gone over this many times so a search would yeild a ton of info.... 1. Bearings are standard 6000 series ball bearings. Go to a bearing house and ask for two 6207-2RS-C3 ball bearings. Should be about $12 each. By buying them this way you will get higher quality and sealed bearings for $10 less than the dealer "kit" that comes with open bearings. 2. The seals are $6 or so from any good parts house. The inner and outer are different diameters on the EA82's so make sure you get both and not two of the same one. 3. Remove the axle, and optionally remove the knuckle frome the car. Drift the old bearings out with a brass punch. If you are really fancy like me, you can cut the outer race off one of the old bearings, weld it back together and to a pipe nipple + cap for a driver tool to use on the new one's. You don't need a press and you don't even have to pull the knuckle off the car. It does help to disconnect the tie-rod end from the knuckle so you can spin the knuckle 180 degrees and drive from the back with your punch though. GD

Won't fit. 14's won't fit over the calipers. GD

My impact has a variable speed trigger like a drill motor so you can be pretty gentle with it. They may not all have that option though. I got the set with drill, impact, flashlight, radio, and two batts for $179 on sale at home cheapo. GD

First try smacking them as hard as you dare with a punch. There are also "impact screwdrivers" that you smack with a hammer - it's like an impact gun for screws. I have a battery operated impact - one made by Rigid - 18v, 120 Ft/lbs, and it's got an arbor like a screw gun - I normally run 1/4" or 3/8" socket adaptors but if I have screws to take it I just swap it with a regular driver bit. This is a GREAT method and rarely fails. The last option is a *propely* fitting screwdriver (Snap-On, Mac, etc) and some valve grinding compound on the tip to keep it from slipping. GD

Huh - I was only refering to the color of the top - where the harness plug is. I didn't think the color of the filter screen mattered since you can't see that when they are installed..... all the OEM injectors I've pulled had the same black filter screen (white, black, and pink tops) so I think that's just the aftermarket people that do that. GD

It sounded like you meant pink was for MPFI models. Perhaps you meant "turbo" but your fingers didn't comply with the thought? Where have you seen blue/green injectors on a '90? GD

I have a '91 AT with white top's, and a '90 AT with white tops and I've seen black on '90/'91 MT's. The turbo injectors on my '91 are pink. I've never seen blue or green on a gen 1. They should all be MPFI so I don't know what you mean by that? GD