GeneralDisorder

It's a timing belt job. You have to strip it down till you can get the driver's side t-belt off. EA82 right? If it were an EA81 then you would have to remove..... the water pump/alternator belt. Heh. GD

Yep - when I get a used rig with unknown history, I march right down to the dealer and ask them to order EVERY cooling system hose for me. GD

All Subaru axles, except the Justy, are interchangable for left/right. I prefer the EMPI (new) axles - find a dealer of VW aftermarket parts and have them order them for you. I pay $65 per axle. Also - if it's only the inner's that are torn you can get replacement joints from Rockford and reboot the old axles. GD

I wonder if all Subaru rods are forged then? I remember reading that EJ18 rods are the same part as they use in the STi's.... can't imagine that being possible unless they are all forged. Subaru engines are known for their short, stubby, super strong rods so maybe? GD

That's an interesting solution but still required banging out the tunnel. His work sucks too. There's no reason to use the 5 speed 4WD shifter and wreck your interior like that. My Brat looks 100% stock and it required only that 1" of 1/2" rounds stock be added to the 4WD shift rod. GD

Here's how I used the 5 speed mounts on the 4 speed - might give you some ideas. Basically just bolt the tranny up into place and fab something. It's not all that hard if you have some skillz. If you don't..... buy Jerry's kit. I got one from him for helping him with some electrical troubleshooting and put it in my Brat - works like a champ and no rubbing on the tunnel. His kit is well worth his measly asking price - it is better quality than what most folks have the ability to do on their own and his design which allows the tranny to be fitted without hitting the tunnel is pretty intricate - tight clearances. I won't divulge how his is made and neither will anyone else - he has asked that we not. If you want to see one you'll have to buy one or crawl under someone's rig that has one already. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html GD

So much conflicting information. My EA81T rods looked cast to me but hell I could be wrong. I'm no expert in mettalurgy. GD

I had one do the same thing - I had pulled the whole cross-member and had left the control arm attached as I wasn't able to get the bolt out (junk yard). I figured no problem to do it on the bench.... haha. I hit that sucker with heat, a 3 lb sledge, and every chemical known to man. I ended up cutting just inside the mounting ears with a die grinder. Had to toss the control arm (never really wanted it anyway), as the bolt had become one with the bushing insert. GD

Replace the pump. Might only last a couple miles. When they go it's usually quick. As for the idle - clean your IAC and go from there. Check the CTS for correct resistance when cold. GD

Might be a clutch issue in there somewhere. I just can't tell from your description. Sounds like a hell of a mess to me GD

This is an automatic isn't it? Have you checked the tranny fluid? You might need to work on the governor. Axles are not your problem. If the governor, tranny fluid, or perhaps the modulator doesn't fix it then you need a new tranny. That thing has definitely had it. GD

But how is your driver's side connected to the air filter? What size hose? GD

They do stretch and the EA82's don't have hydraulic tensioners..... GD

Valves hit pistons if the timing belt breaks. 90 through 96 EJ22's can freewheel - no damage if the belt breaks. If you do put in a 2.5 (not reccomended), it would have to be a phase II - '00 model year or newer to be a simple swap. But you would also need to swap the exhaust as your '96 exhaust is single port and the 2.5's will all be dual port like the early 2.2's Stick with the 2.2 - they are generally good to 300k+ GD

If that doesn't fix your problem, then you have battery cable issues or issues with the crank circuit that engages the solenoid. Both are common - more common than contact failure's. GD

No - you need it setup like this: GD

Yes - those are the two. Just look at the back of the manifold where the lines connect. Whichever one goes into the intake manifold is the one you DO NOT want. You want the one that dissapears under the manifold as that one runs to the water pump. GD

Between the legs, or between the 4WD shifter and the e-brake. Seriously there's not much you can do about the cup holder situation without causing damage to the interior somewhere. My solution - drive a gen 1 Legacy as a daily. Cheaper to drive and easier to find parts for - plus I won't give a hoot if someone runs into me. GD

Yes - they are identical. The only difference is the way the switches look and the shape of the slider knob. You can pop out all the switches and pull the knob off and replace them with your original and it will look identical. Oh - and the backlight bulb is green on the newer one's. Again put your's in if you want the white illumination. There are differences in the design of the slider mechanism and strangely enough BOTH of the designs have serious flaws that result in them breaking. The intersting thing is that you can take the plastic slider out of the early control, fit the flat roller wheels from a later style control to it and install into the later model slide rail to make a superior control mechanism. The problem with the early one's is the shape of the roller wheels, and the problem with the later one's is the design of the slider. You just have to take bits from both to make a good one. GD

Unfortunately I suspected your PCV was setup something like that. In order to get positive flow and thus remove blow-by gasses from the crankcase, you need to have the passenger side open to the/an air filter (valve cover filter is fine), and the driver's side must go directly to the PCV valve. If the driver's side is also open to atmosphere as you have it currently, there will be no positive flow as there will be no pressure differential between the two valve cover's. The gasses in the crankcase must be displaced by a positive flow from one valve cover to the other - that cannot take place if there is no pressure differential.... do you see how there cannot be a pressure differential with your current sytem? Both ports are open to the atmosphere with the same diameter lines..... On the stock system there is only a 1/4" ID hose T'd into the driver's side and running to the filter - this is an "orifice" to control the flow and prevent oil from being sucked out of the driver's side valve cover. Several years of running without removing any acidic blow-by may be causeing damage to the engine's and thus your low compression, etc. GD

It's probably not all that bad once you get the trim off. Pull the whole rear seat assembly so you have room to work. And perhaps it's time for a new dog. My opinion is that if the dog runs away, destroy's stuff, poop's in the house, etc..... that animal is a reject and must be traded in. GD

Yeah - a plain flush kit for 5/8" hose will work. You just splice it into the heater core line and follow the directions. You want to splice into the return from the core so you are back-flushing it - the one that goes into the water pump. The one that comes out of the back of the manifold is the supply. I would dismount the radiator and completely flush it as well as clean out the fins. Really simple to do. Just remove the fans and the two bolts at the top and it will come right out. GD

It really sounds like a stripped hub from your description of it not moving for 30 seconds.... that's a long time and I can't see how it could happen unless the hub was stripped or there were internal transmission problems - but even then you have metal on metal and it should make one HELL of a racket if the hub were stripped, etc..... You say it doesn't do this in 4WD? That would also likely point to a stripped hub.... What year/model are we talking about? GD

Just convert it to an internally regulated alternator and get a later 80's fuel pump control unit for the pump. There's a few guides on here on how to do that - it's not at all difficult. GD

How is your PCV routed with the Weber? I suspect you aren't getting rid of acidic blow-by gasses properly and it may be leading to cylinder damage. The #2 and #4 cylinder are on the downstream side of the PCV and also your comment about sucking oil out of the valve covers gives me cause to wonder how it's setup. GD