GeneralDisorder

I have seen absolutely zero videos that do a block measure and assembly properly. The reason I say not to attempt it, is not because it can't be done by mere mortals (which might describe me - on a good day), but rather because the investment in proper tools, and the steep learning curve generally precludes it being worthwhile and without hands-on training on assembly techniques and the minutiae of accurately reading 10ths bore gauges, the chances of it going very much sideways shortly after startup are quite high. The problems are many, and the pitfalls serious and deep. Primarily you are dealing with an aluminum block where main bearing clearances and not stable with respect to temperature. So that cold clearances (setup) are half what operating temp clearances will be. Further you have a split block that has two dowels that align it - after a dozen dissasembly and reassembly cycles during cleaning, checking, and so forth they are no kind of accurate. With cold clearances being between 0.0003" and 0.0012" you can EASILY be out of alignment on the case halves by MORE than half your total bearing clearance resulting in immediate main bearing damage on startup. Just think about that for a minute..... There's a lot of other pieces that are unknown or ignored. Too many to go into and honestly most of this is hard won trade information that's not known or published anywhere including the factory service manual. I will leave you with this. The FSM states there is NO remedy for enlarged main bearing clearances. You must replace the block in cases where it doesn't meet spec. I have measured a LOT of blocks and NONE meet the spec. So written between the line of the FSM is that virtually all blocks are garbage and should be disposed of..... a good machinist can line hone a block once or maybe twice. After that they are indeed scrap. GD

Missing the crush washer. GD

Just as good. 1/4 the price. GD

Yes. If there is no evidence of metal in the pan or in the filter (cut it), then just get new rings. NPR Japanese rings are a good choice. Make sure you check the end gaps. DO NOT HONE. Do not touch the cylinder walls. GD

Don't mess with the bottom end - or if you do have it professionally line honed and assembled by a proper Subaru experienced engine builder. Trust me you don't want to attempt a block split without any experience. The chances of it ending up better than not touching it at all are extremely small. GD

Are you testing across the injector or from injector power to chassis ground? These injectors are likely low impedance peak-and-hold units. GD

No. The distributor is just an optical pickup. It has no ability to trigger the ignition coil. You need a carb distributor and matching coil. What you should have done is just go to a LINK standalone and use whatever sensors you like for the FI. This would have retained the fuel injection and gave it universal compatibility with a HUGE variety of sensors. GD

There really is no significant performance to be had on the NA 2.5's. Volumetric efficiency is already quite high. GD

Just tune out the code. Get a Tactrix cable and pull the rom off it. GD

If they are pitted from rust, etc. then replace them. If they aren't just clean them in some mineral spirits. DO NOT wire wheel them. You will remove the anti-friction coating they have. Use Amsoil assembly lube (a LOT of it) for head bolt lube after chasing the block threads and making sure they are brain-surgery clean. GD

A normal good-running NA engine will throw about 190 compression in the car. After sitting I would expect it to be lower. As long as they are even the number doesn't matter. If I pulled a cold compression from an engine that had sat on a shelf I wouldn't be surprised to see all of them around 100. GD

The gaskets are only $100 retail from Subaru and if you buy them online it's probably about $80 or less. You can resurface the heads yourself with sandpaper and glass. On the EJ22E you can do the HG's without even pulling off the valve covers. I would absolutely do them prior to installation. GD

Agree. Unknown rebuilds I would not trust. It takes a special eye for Subaru split-block rebuilding. This isn't your grandads small block (those aren't as simple as people think either). GD

If it's got over 200k then you SHOULD do the HG's on that motor. The EJ22's will eventually blow. Usually between 250k and 300k. One of my loaners has 330k and it blew the HG's at 285k. Was never abused. One owner with meticulous maintenance and mobile 1 synthetic it's whole life. GD

It's not for the un-initiated.... splitting the block that is. I don't even bother with NA engines though. Just get a reman block from Subaru and chuck the old one in the box for the $200 core. It isn't worth the time, effort, or money to rebuild them. The Subaru reman blocks come with a 3yr / 36k warranty. GD

I'm just relating my customer's experience. And I hate to see anyone supporting PRE. I've seen them blow up a LOT of engines. Their builds are awful and their tuning is absolutely horrific. GD

It's possible for a valve strike to crack a piston or break the valve off which will destroy the cylinder. GD

I have not installed them but have had complaints about them. PRE bought RalliTek after IPD ran the name into the ground and has been selling all their old stock. If PRE's operation of RalliTek is anything like their performance side of things then the poor reputation will follow over to RalliTek. They installed some springs for a guy that ended up being my customer because the springs had coil bind and their solution was to zip-tie some heater core hose to them to dampen the noise. I'm not impressed to say the least. GD

Very likely a later model EA81 intake. No thermostat housing so it's not EA82. It's got the AC idle up pot so probably a later Brat with the EA81. GD

If you haven't replaced the AVLS pressure switches then do so immediately. They fail and leak often. GD

The regulated pressure is much lower than the dead-head pressure. The 80's Ford F-150 frame rail booster pumps are typically just fine for any of the EA fuel injection applications. The pulse damper can be eliminated, and if you get a modern pump it will likely be a turbine style and won't have those pressure pulses anyway. GD

Granted, they suck, but you can get one with a blown turbo/engine/etc for next to nothing and just rebuild it. Or go through and actually do the necessary upgrades to a good running example. Still a lot less work than a proper swap. GD

Buy an 05-07 Outback XT. Turbo swap is way too much work on a 2000 model. You will be looking at spending $10k easily. GD

Nope. Have to pull the wheel. You can't modify the harness, and the connector is not accessible without pulling the wheel off. And yeah - comparative testing should probably be performed with a lab scope on this one. Similar (apparently working) circuits in the same car, or a functional similar model. Or take it to a competent dealer with the testing kit. GD

As I said quite some time ago - you can't essily do the diagnostic on this. First of all you don't have the diagnostic harness/resistor kit. And second Subaru doesn't publish the specifications for harness resistance, etc. They rely on the diagnostic kit and a detailed procedural plan that will allow the bearer of the kit to find the fault. The only way forward would be to do a lot of comparative analysis between different circuits of the system or a similar model that's functional. Beyond that you're pretty much going to be doing parts swapping. GD