GeneralDisorder

I don't see how a change in RPM's would cause the clutch to stick. Are you sure it's not just slipping? If it is sticking - replace the cable first. If that doesn't cure it then you'll have to pull the engine and take a look at the clutch setup. Something could be worn out. GD

You can install a pedal switch on the clutch pedal to act as the neutral switch. That works well enough that you won't get the code. GD

Really? No slope at all? I thought there was usually a slight slope to the door so you could easily wash down the floor and so stuff drains out instead of in..... very slight of course. Like 1" total slope. I could be wrong though. GD

The EA81T is 95 HP, rare, and has a primitive form of the EA82T's fuel injection. Hard to find parts for them anymore and expensive to maintain for a mere 20 HP over the stock EA81 non-turbo. You can get almost the same power from an EA82 SPFI, and WAY more power from an EJ22 without any of the complications of the turbo or it's entourage. The RAM performance EA81 Supercharged aircraft build is 200 HP and cost is about $14,000 As for the EJ22G/EJ20G turbo engines - they are good and at 165/230 HP respectively will yeild a ton more power. I wouldn't say they are "easily" upgraded to 600+ HP..... it's possible but it generally cost's about $5,000 to $10,000 by the time it's said and done and you won't get there on stock internals. I wouldn't call that "easy" but at least it's possible which isn't something you can say for the various incarnations of the EA's. Just to straighten out a few facts. If you want a turbo EA81 then swap out the pistons with EA82T pistons, add a custom cam, port/polish, and do a blow-through setup using an appropriate carb. The DGEV Weber can work but it's better to use something like the 38/38 DGAS as it's easier to tune two barrels of the same size than it is to tune two dissimilar sized barrels and work around the progression issues. Also the 38/38 has e-tubes that are appropriate for forced induction. There are numerous issues with doing a blow-through but nothing that can't be overcome. I did one recently to a Samuri with a co-worker. It was a lot of R&D and he's still working out little issues. GD

5 is a model code that indicates no fault. It just tells what the transmission type was of the car the ECU came from, etc. GD

Yes. The push-button 5 speeds came in 3.9 and in 3.7. Your Loyale should be 3.9 so it may be that your used tranny came from an older 3.7 car. GD

Right on - two-car, extra deep or three-car? Hard to tell what the orientation is supposed to be..... That's about what I work out of as well. Thinking about putting in a lift in the next few years. Would be very useful for me. GD

There is typically a fuel pump relay of some kind. On the carb models I beleive it's just the solid-state relay in the fuel pump control unit that does the job. There might be another but I would have to consult my FSM diagrams. GD

It's an automatic system - it's got a 12v DC compressor and all the associated nightmare of tubing and wireing that goes with it. Yes they will fit the standard knuckle but the system was VERY unreliable and almost all of them have been replaced with standard coil-overs. GD

It's one of the relays under the dash on the driver's side IIRC. You'll see them. Don't hard-wire the fusible links. They are there for a reason - so you don't earn a darwin award by burning yourself to death. GD

You check the fusible links and insure they were tight and good? Other than that I would check the lighting relay under the dash. Might be bad. A bad alternator can cause other failures. Overdriving components in excess of their designed voltage will eventually cause that. GD

If it has air suspension then it's not a good candidate I don't think. I would look for a non-turbo without the air suspension if you are looking for used springs. GD

Turbo's are typically different. They would fit for sure, but the ride height and/or stiffness may be affected. GD

The front strut springs are only like $50 or $60 each from the dealer. GD

There is no such thing as an EA81 turbo axle. They were 23 spline just like the N/A versions. So being the roll pin was sheared away..... I don't know. Generally if you can even get the EA81 axle on the car then it will pull the joint apart rather than pull the end off the transmission. This is pure speculation though. GD

99004.731 GD

What will really blow your mind is that the filter that comes with the Redline kit is too tall - it hits the underside of the hood on EA81's without a body lift. You'll want to invest in the 1-3/4" filter instead of the 3" that you have. The clips are still the same though. On some of them you can gently lift the base of the filter and slip the edge of the clip between the base and the carb. Easier if you have installed the gasket that goes inbetween. For the ones that don't want to slip under you can grind on the bottom edge if you want. You could just leave them sticking out a bit as well - they don't ever come off that I've experienced but maybe if you were bouncing around off-road a lot. I always try to tuck mine under or grind them. GD

I've said my peice freind. Take it or leave it. I type VERY fast (also a software engineer) so it's no trouble at all to go on. But it's clear that it's wasted on you. Good laugh for me and the crowd though. Hope you're stocked up on the blood pressure meds if you are going to stick around. GD

$750 would be top dollar considering the issues it has I would say. If it's a turbo then possibly a little less. The EA82T's aren't highly regarded in the community. Thing is - you can get a nicer, newer gen I Legacy for under $1000 any day of the week in running/driving condition. More power, better all-around car for the money. It's also not going to be easy or cheap to replace that 4EAT transmission. They only made them for like 3 years. Although on the good side they aren't as prone to failure in the first place as thee earlier 3AT. Just not a really desireable car being an EA82 and an automatic, etc. You would definately have to find *just* the right buyer to give you anything close to $750 for it. If you want it gone in less than a few months you'll have to take less than $500 for I would say. You would do well to at least consider looking for a used tranny and putting it in. Might only cost $100 or so and could easily bump the value up to around $1000 - $1200 to someone that just needs reliable transportation. I don't think you'll entice that kind of money out of a Subaru enthusiast as they typically aren't looking for that model. GD

$35 at Discount Import Parts here in Beaverton, OR. Special order, but that only took 1 day. GD

Yes - that's an EA81 manifold. Should work just fine. GD

So did you check the spline count? GD

Sounds like there's a possibility you were given a turbo axle (25 spline) for your 23 spline application. That would cause the roll pin to shear away - which usually takes less than 50 feet. They usually don't fall off the transmission though so that sounds a bit fishy.... GD

Just under 4 quarts typically. GD

I think you are refering to the "C" clearance number of the bearing yes? Here's a good tutorial on the subject. Subaru wheel bearings are C3's. Unmarked bearings are typically CN which is some nebulous clearance between C2 and C3 according to this document. Might be ok, but then again maybe too tight. http://www.ahrinternational.com/bearing_radial_clearance_explained.htm I prefer to stick with SKF, NTN, FA G (no space), and the other big-name bearing suppliers. Qaulity of construction and inspection seems to be lacking on the cheap stuff. GD