GeneralDisorder

http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp GD

Not without an overflow bottle it won't. The EA81 radiators will puke out what they don't want in them from heat expansion. What is left will always be less than full when cold. GD

Confirm - the struts will bend at the knuckle if you jump the car. GD

Hose reversal will not make any difference to a properly functioning core. The flow through the core can be any direction you like. Reversing it may have seemed to help due to dislodging some deposits inside the core or jammed in the heater core shut-off valve but ultimately it's just a simple radiator and the direction of flow has nothing to do with it's heat transfer abilities. How have you tested flow rate through the core? And have you verified that there isn't a partial or complete blockage in the heater core bypass hose from the water pump? GD

Nope - if you are at 8 degree's on the gun, then you are good to go. Typically with a Weber you can push it up to 10 degree's. But where the slot is in relation to the bolt has nothing to do with it being timed correctly. If it shows good when you check it and advances properly with vacuum and RPM's then it's functioning as designed. GD

EA81's don't have overflow bottles. The radiator seeks it's own level and when properly functioning it does not affect the heat at all. All my EA81's have excelent heat and I've never added a single overflow bottle to them. Iv'e seen one's where people have added them but it just isn't neccesary if everything is working as designed. GD

It's TOTALLY worth it. For $150 a month, I never touch a cleaning product, vacuum, etc. She cleans every appliance, toilets, shower, dusts every surface, washes the sheets, makes the beds, folds laundry, etc, etc. I can get $150 worth of work *I like doing* done in the time she's at the house every month. She does a better job than I would do (if I did it at all ), it gives me an excuse to pick-up and organize before she comes, and I'm helping her out - she's single with two teenagers and no formal employment other than her maid service clients. I could give you a reference if you like. My mother also uses her and she's done excelent work for both of us. She's willing to travel a bit - comes out to West Linn from Troutdale to work for myself and my mother. Perhaps we could collaberate on the project. The wood chipper I have for a donor is not worth beans I'm afraid. It's a 1960's Craftsman - has no parts availibility at all, and my grandfather pretty much used it all up. It's been fabbed on with rivets, welds (stick), and it's pretty well toast. Even my grandfather had to eventually admit it was too far gone to function as anything more than a yard ornament and bought himself a new chipper that he used for the last 10 years of his life. The old machine just sits in my shed. It takes ether to start the old Techumseh engine but I'm pretty sure I can make it run (hasn't in 15+ years I would bet). It was drained of fuel and it's been indoors that whole time. GD

Nope. Not even close. You can do a five-lug swap using some XT6 parts but I don't know if that will interface with STi axles or not. If I were you, I would use an Impreza body for this swap. The EA82 body is not very stiff. To be race ready they have to be gusseted and seam welded almost everywhere. Even then they aren't that strong. There is no aftermarket for anything on the car and all the newer stuff is different. When you hit 1990 and the Legacy (and later the Impreza), everything changed. It was nearly a complete redesign. It can and has been done, but typically not with STi stuff. The USDM STi's are a little too new to make the swap easy. The older WRX's are a little more managable and some of the JDM import WRX/STi stuff is easier as well. GD

A TON of wireing and not a little bit of mechanical work. Hydraulic clutch, pedal assembly (E-Throttle), DCCD controller, custom exhaust, complete suspension swap (not simple)..... lots and lots of little issues. If the GL-10 isn't a turbo that makes is even harder - you will need an EA82 x-member from a turbo, etc. The GL-10's suspension and brakes will not handle 300 HP. You will have to do a lot of work to make it safe at that level of performance. GD

Get out your DMM and start checking components. Start with the coolant temp as noted above. GD

Not at all is the answer to your question. The STi is so far removed from the GL-10 they might as well be different brands entirely. The Leone body of the GL-10 is about 5 or 6 generations of car and one major generation of engine back in time. The STi engine/transmission won't even be easy to fit. While possible, it will take a LOT of work. GD

I am well aware of what engines were made for Europe and the US. You do NOT have an EA82 engine. You DO have an Overhead Valve 1.6 Liter EA71 in an 3rd generation Leone body. Go take a look at your valve covers - they will be green or blue and you do not have timing belts - that means you have an EA71. GD

So it has overhead cams? If not you have an EA82 body with an EA71 (I've seen this combination). If you have some other flavor of engine it still would not be an EA82 as that both indicates the engine type as well as the size. EA82's *ARE* 1.8 liter engines. If you have a 1.6 then you do NOT have an EA82. GD

If the return line is hooked up as stock, then *very* little airflow would be possible while blowing into it. There is an orifice at one of the hard-line connections under the hood that contains a silicone "nozzle" for lack of a better term. I'm assuming it only opens under pressure..... my guess is that the return line is only there to prevent the fuel pump from overheating in the case of the float getting stuck closed. It can only flow a tiny amount with that orifice and the tiny hole supplying the return line hose barb from the main supply line barb at the carb. Fact is - I have no idea why these cars were equipped with return lines. 80/81 models didn't have them and the pump was under the hood. It was only in '82 that they began putting the pump under the car (to minimize the possibility of fire by insuring that the pump always has liquid in it and never explosive fuel vapor). At the same time they introduced the return line..... I've hookd up Weber's both with and without the return line and never noticed a bit of difference either way. GD

Something probably fell down into the air bleeds for the main and/or idle circuit. Take the top off the Weber, remove the air correctors, E-tubes, main jets, and idle jets - blow all the passages out with compressed air and reassemble. Should clear up your issues. This has happened to me several times while off-roading. The Weber air filters are not great at keeping out debris. GD

Sounds like it's drivetrain related - nothing inside the bell-housing should be moving on take-off that doesn't also move when changing gears. I would be looking at drive axles and driveline's for a noise that only occurs on take-off like that. For these older Subarus - pick your mechanic carefully. The best mechanic is YOU. Every time. Next best thing is a board member from here or one of the other Subaru forums that knows his stuff. GD

You have an EA71 not an EA82. These were commonly put in the EA82 body in markets outside the US. You would need to do a lot of custom work to do a blow-through carb setup. Custom turbo exhaust, custom intake, and proper rejetting of the carb just to name a few. It's no small task but it can and has been done. GD

My project list has been out of control for years now. Some days I just twirl in circles not knowing what to do first. Currently I have 7 Subaru's here - only 4 of which are drivers and only 1 *maybe* parts car. All of them are project cars to one degree or another. Then there's the house. I have a leaky water-heater that I haven't had time to replace (new unit is sitting here in the box), yard to care for, ageing parents, girlfriend, etc, etc. At least my house is clean since I started hiring a maid for 3 hours every other week GD

I'll add that parts are cheap for the HF welders. I just bought a new MIG gun and cord for my 110v HF machine and it was only $33 shipped. The hardest part was understanding the gentleman on the phone. They do have a technical support number as well that might be able to sugest which parts need replacement. Congrats on your new 190 amp. Just bought myself a Thermal-Arc 180 a couple weeks ago. GD

Make sure you tell him that cracks between the valves are NORMAL for these engines. Both heads will have cracks there - it's a gaurantee. But it doesn't affect the engine any. GD

The ASV is the Air Suction Valve. If you look at the exhaust ports on the heads you will see a spacer with about a 3/4" diameter tube running out of it. Follow that up to the ASV. Unscrew the valve from the tube you just followed and put a quarter (yes - $0.25) inside the valve body and screw the tube back on. Do this to both sides if you have two valves. That will cure your backfireing. GD

I'm assuming you are refering to the accerator pump nozzle then. I suppose it could be that the float is set too high - I'm not sure if that would cause it or not. Typically the nozzle is way above the fuel level and the fuel is pumped to it by the accelerator pump plunger. Perhaps the plunger is not sealing well.... GD

Probably didn't hurt the engine at all. Change the head gaskets and mill the heads flat. Should be fine. If it had got REALLY hot it wouldn't have driven due to detonation. So it didn't get as hot as I've had them before. GD

Sure seems that way. I don't know what their problem is here - maybe it's got something to do with liabilities in my area. I don't know all the laws but as much trouble as we have here there must be something behind it. Most of the problems I've heard about were bottles that were being "leased". As I own all of mine and always go to the same dealer I've never experienced it first hand. GD

Perhaps - are you using the return line? What orifice does the fuel leak from inside the carb? Is is leaking from the accelerator pump nozzle or some other place? I wouldn't think that .5 psi would make any difference and frankly there should be no real pressure present when the fuel pump shuts down. The fuel inlet to the carb is solely controlled by the float and needle valve - 3.5 psi is not enough to blow the needle off the seat. I think the key is going to be in finding out where the fuel is comming from that's leaking onto the throttle plate. GD