GeneralDisorder

The 3.6R is an excellent engine and the last years with the high torque CVT seems to be quite reliable. We have a customer with about 200k on a 2016. He's killed three deer with it. Dealer replaced the trans at 100k for a converter seal leak (minor). Unfortunately I cannot recommend the 05-09 Legacy chassis cars. I would absolutely get rid of it before it becomes an albatross. The junk yards are FULL of those cars with no body damage. Just scrapped because of drivetrain failure and the cost to repair far exceeds their value. They have an STI engine with all the same costs to repair and upgrade but the rest of the car is less reliable than an STI. Bad combo. Oh yeah - the 5EAT auto likes to eat valve bodies, wiring harnesses, torque converters, and the occasional TCU also. It's also rather a troublesome unit. GD

Probably was already failing. And no they aren't "notorious" for failure. They are quite reliable. Get a junkyard compressor and charge up the system. Will likely be fine. GD

We run a braided stainles -3AN line from the rear block main gallery (behind and to the right of the throttle body) directly to the turbo using only the original banjo bolt at the turbo for its orifice. The three other critical pieces for these is to replace the oil pickup tube with a Killer-B, remove the up-pipe cat, and get an Access Port and proper safe tune to ensure you don't break the cast pistons. Or replace them with forged. Also at some point the factory intercooler will split apart at the end tank bolted to the turbo. AVO makes a nice aluminum replacement. The radiators tend to crack as the front core supports have more flex than the Impreza chassis that had the reinforcement brace. There are some braces for the Legacy's out there. And be prepared to replace the short block at some point or at least the pistons with forged. I think the 05/06 LGT auto has the highest ring land failure rate we have seen. These cars can cost a HUGE amount to bulletproof. I've had multiple customers spend $9k to $12k doing it. GD

Unless you have testing in your area you don't need it. But on a 2005 there are three cats. One in the up-pipe (dangerous for the turbo and should be deleted as Subaru did after 05), and two in the downpipe. Aftermarket high flow downpipes either have one high-flow cat or none at all. Be aware that if it's automatic you need a specific downpipe that's only for the 5EAT Legacy GT chassis. Those cars suffered from turbo failure due to oil feed restrictions. You should reroute the oil feed from the primary block gallery. They have quite a few other flaws also. Honestly the 05/06 LGT platform cars were quite the mess. Ring lands, pickup tubes, HVAC/radio panels, turbo oil feed, up-pipe cats.... the list is long. GD

Dakota Digital SGI-5E is one that I have used. Also the DCCD-Pro guys in canada make a VSS-Pro that does similar. It's just a square wave that pulses like 4000 or 8000 pulses per mile. You just need to to change the frequency of the sensor output. GD

Neither the IAC, nor the test connectors will cause a no-start. Unfortunately, without live data from the ECU, you have no real way to determine if the sensor inputs make sense. I reccomend you order an OBD-I SSM cable and download EVOScan to see what the ECU is seeing. GD

Get a factory hose while you still can. The flex hoses are stupid. GD

There should be history codes stored. GD

Really? Disconnect the wires. Remove the bolts. Installation is reverse. GD

Get the factory hoses. Nothing aftermarket is worth having. They are about $20 retail from the dealer. GD

Coolant temp sensor is a suspect. Check the resistance on it. Best to get one from Subaru. And yeah WOT is clear-flood on most fuel injected engines so you do appear to have a flooding condition. GD

No idea. You need to pull the codes. GD

The turbo shafts break because they seize at high speed due to lack of oil and the shaft shears off. You have fundamental issues with understanding how all this works. That's fairly obvious from your questions. Oil stop leak is a VERY bad idea for any engine, especially those that have turbochargers with tiny oil passages that need to remain clear for proper turbo shaft lubrication. Stop leak will clog things - that's intentional - how else are you going to stop leaks? Well that probably destroyed the turbo and very likely you won't be able to get that crap out of the engine without a complete tear down and it's likely destined for the scrap heap. I would write it off and either find a complete engine or get a different (newer) car that you can actually buy parts for. The EA chassis, especially the EA82T, is a dead platform with very little parts available - no oil pumps, and things like seals, gaskets, and timing components are rapidly disappearing from warehouses and within the next 5 years will be entirely unobtainable. NEVER use stop leak products on engine oil leaks. They don't work and they frequently cause long term engine damage and eventual failure. Unfortunately it is VERY likely you killed it off with that decision. GD

Turbo failures occur because of lack of oil or oil contamination to the turbo. Also the failure of turbo sends shrapnel into the engine via the oil return. It is likely you have an oil pressure problem, bad bearings, etc already. Replacing the turbo without fixing the underlying cause of the failure will only result in another turbo failure or complete engine failure. GD

Rebuild the distributor (Philbin manufacturing) and replace the stock carb with a Weber. GD

Grounding problems. You don't get that many codes and still have the engine run if all those things are actually bad. Check the 5v reference from the ECU at the ECU plugs and at all the sensors, check the sensor ground pins, etc and check the resistance of the CTS, etc at the sensor and at the ECU.... clean all the grounds, etc. GD

I have two or three of the earlier ELM327 units kicking around in drawers from about 10 years ago (back then they were $15 free shipping). Maybe things have improved but for the price.... I doubt it. They were so incredibly frustrating - very occasionally you would get one to work for a minute or two before it disconnected and then mysteriously wouldn't work again with that device but might work with other devices. They were garbage in my estimation. Maybe things have changed but I have no use for them anymore having spent the equivalent of a downpayment on a pretty nice house on my current diagnostic selection. The thing I hated about Apple - they constantly assume all their customers are idiots (it may be true). Why build a mouse with only ONE button?!? I have 5 fingers..... i swear their products are made for Barney the dinosaur. GD

And hose and fitting supplier could likely source an adapter to whatever metric thread it is. Or solder in a new brass bung and just leave the old switch to plug the hole. GD

The cheap bluetooth one's, if they work at all, have too much lag for decent real time data analysis. Last I checked you had to spend about $100 to get a decent dongle. The wifi one's may be better - I haven't tried because well..... f*ck Steve Jobs and the horse he rode in on. Never liked Apple products and I can trace the roots back to the 80's on that account. I'll never own any Apple product nor condone them in my household. GD

Replace every timing belt. GD

Among a host of other problems (turbos, ring lands, HVAC panels, etc), those early LGT's suffer from TCU, trans wiring harness, and trans valve body issues with 5EAT. My advice - sell it or trade it while the codes are off. GD

If you are getting battery corrosion around the terminals it's likely because the terminals have been over tightened and broken the seal between the post and the plastic body of the battery. This is a common mistake and ruins the battery. The buzzing in gear is the PWM solenoids in the transmission. Normal. Sounds like you need to replace the battery cables and terminals to me. Also the inhibitor switch on the side of the trans. For good measure you should clean all the ground points you can find as well. GD

You have to watch the video. You just smack it with a hammer to remove the keepers, and you give it a sharp downward push to install them. It takes seconds. GD

Heads for an 11 will be $$$$$. Gentlemen. I present the VALVEMASTER! https://www.toyotool.com/ GD

Then you likely need to replace the valves. They are cheap. I don't believe the 08 heads will work. I would just fix the 11 engine. Valves are cheap. GD