GeneralDisorder

Not exactly. The gen 1 legacy turbo's, while looking similar on the outside to their NA siblings, are almost completely different cars. The engine is an entirely different beast, they use a pusher-style clutch and different transmission, the engine cross-member is different to allow for the up-pipe to the turbo.... even the whole front core support is different to accomidate the turbo's radiator. The swap can and has been done, but it's almost always done using a wrecked donor. I have a 91 Legacy turbo (the best year - oil cooler, rear VLSD, etc), and I love it. It's real easy to make 250 HP with them just by adding an IC, bigger turbo, and opening up the exhaust a bit. And your's isn't particularly rare - lots of L models came with 5 speed's. I had a 94 GT wagon not long ago with a 5 speed as well. I can find them on craigslist weekly. GD

It's a rare color, but I've seen a few over the years. I really like it personally and would love to get my hands on a pristene example. I would EJ it of course... GD

I just can't get past the look of the things. I guess I just don't think I would fit in one without looking like a complete fool - I'm 6' 2" and 225 lbs.... I think it would look like a circus car on me :-\. But I think they have potential - especially with the 4WD. ECVT are to be avoided I would think and as long as you rebuild the engine properly.... I heard the oil pumps were getting hard to find as well.... GD

Have to pull the cluster to get to them. Not terrible, but not the most fun job ever. Dealership is the only source for interior stuff like that. Or a junk yard but you won't find many 98's. A few, but not many. You could call around and see what you can find but I know when I bought a replacement trunk handle for my 91 it was only like $25 brand new from the dealer. GD

As slow as you would expect a 65 HP car to be. They aint fast that's for damn sure. GD

Agreed - with all the head gasket/piston slap/rod issues of the EJ25, I would MUCH rather have an EJ22 with 200k (they are good to 300k+ easily) than any of the EJ25's with the exception of the very new models. Most of the early one's had head gasket failure around 100k or shortly after. Some as early as 50k. GD

Flip the parking light rocker switch on top of the steering column to "off" The virgin switch strikes again! GD

I beleive it's the other way around. And I don't beleive that the N/A EJ22 was sandcast either. IIRC, the EJ22 and the EJ25 are both die cast. The sand cast blocks are the pre-96 EJ20T's and the EJ22T's. All the NA motors in the EJ line are die-cast as far as I know (open deck). And sand casting is the stronger, better process. It's also twice as expensive due to the problems with removing the sand and the finishing that is required afterwards. The die-cast process requires much less post-cast machine work. GD

Wireing mostly. But for the extra ~25 HP - why bother? The 2.5RS engines from the 90's were not great engines - if you want a fast car with possibilities then get something with a Turbo. GD

Probably an inner CV joint (Double Offset Joint). They clunk or vibrate like that. Just because the boot is intact doesn't mean the joint is good. GD

It's not neccesary. They move easily by sucking on the line. GD

The Justy engine's suffer from a specific oil pump failure that limits their ability to go for a ton of miles without a rebuild. They are also transverse engine cars like a Honda.... yuck. I stear clear of them personally. GD

Ultra Grey is a hell of a lot cheaper than Anearobic. Also I really don't like or use a lot of RTV period. It is often not the right sealant for a variety of reasons. In the case of flanged mating surfaces Anearobic is prefered as it will not harden and clog oil passages. Loctite makes a lot of very good sealing products and the VAST majority of them are not RTV. RTV has it's places, but they are few, and mostly on older engines that had inferior cork gaskets. GD

4 cylinders, 360 degree's in a full crank rotation, so 90 degrees per cylinder. Just look for both valves to close and check that the piston is at TDC using a drinking straw. Adjust the two valves for that cylinder and move on. When you get the process down it only takes about 20 minutes to do all 8 valves. GD

Newer engines can be fitted but it requires a custom adaptor plate and a custom drilled flywheel. Also a LOT of wireing modifications as well as cooling system mods to accomidate the radiator fans, different size and shape radiator hoses, etc. It's getting more common so the parts are availible to do it, but the know-how has to be there. The wireing is probably the biggest hurdle for most people - you have to strip out the ignition and fuel system wireing from the newer vehicle and piggy-back it to the existing wiring of the XT. It can and has been done, but it won't be cheap or easy if you have never done one. GD

Spring? What spring? The valve springs? No amount of adjusting the valve's will ever cause the springs to "shoot off" - they are held in place even if you remove the whole rocker assembly. Anyway - just rotate the flywheel 90 degrees till each cylinder is at TDC. The valves for that cylinder will then be loose and you can adjust them. I'm not sure what you are doing so it's difficult to help. Did you remove the rocker arms and make sure the pushrods were seated properly? Hell of a time difference - it's 11:40 PM here - must be morning for you eh? GD

Ok - the second diagram you posted is correct - but I think you're misunderstanding lies in what the marks you are lining up mean. The marks are for ignition timing - they relate only to the TDC (or BTDC/ATDC) of the #1 cylinder. They are in NO WAY related to the other three cylinders. So if you are looking for the TDC of the #2 cylinder then you have to do it by eye and by the valves. Both valves need to be closed (rocker arms loose), and the piston at the top of the bore - which you can check with a drinking straw through the plug hole. Adjust all the valves when they are loose - with each cylinder at TDC for those two valves. GD

Put the vacuum pot line to your lips and SUCK. Stick your tongue on the end of the hose to seal it - the pot should not bleed down. If you want to know what vacuum signal the pot is getting - pick up a $10 guage and hook it to the line instead of the pot. GD

Studs go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the head - making them stronger and less prone to pulling the threads out of the aluminium - with a bolt you don't have full thread engagement because you can't tighten the header down if you do. More thread engagement = stronger. They also allow you to remove/install the header many times without worrying about the aluminium threads. It's really all about protecting the aluminium from damage and using studs maximizes the safety factor. GD

How much is a "small amount"? The smear of anearobic sealant should be VERY thin. Like transparent thin. It takes very little. GD

It is that style, yes, but it ONLY cools the oil supply going to the turbo to prevent cokeing in the original non-water-cooled turbo's. Pretty neat item really. It will bolt right on to the EA82's oil pump - you will have to change some supply lines to the turbo I'm sure though. GD

I just told you that - a wire from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid's male spade terminal on the back of the starer.... GD

There is no need to replace them. They can be rebuilt for a few dollars in parts - brushes and solenoid contacts are widely availible. Honda and Toyota both use Nippon starters that use the same components. GD

Never rule out a clog - pull the idle jet and inspect the tip for blockage. They are very small and I've had them clog on me whiile off-roading. Fortunately they are right on the front of the carb and easily accesible with just a flat blade screwdriver. GD

Used Weber or brand new? I would say you have a good sized vacuum leak or a clogged idle jet. GD