GeneralDisorder

Here's the one I posted pictures in of the PCV setup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99600 Will it cause damage? Eventually you will eat the bearing surfaces inside the engine if you don't get rid of the acidic exhaust blow-by. GD

You will get more response if you follow these sugestions: 1. Speak in english. Full sentances. Use spell-check. If you can't be bothered to speak the same language as me, then I can't be bothered to respond. And MOST of the members here will follow that trend. We have no need of members that make the board difficult to search and besides that it's disrespectful. 2. If you have specific technical questions, ask them. You have asked exactly ONE nebulous question to which there is no good or single answer - despite that, you have received numerous answers that apparently were not to your liking so you have dismissed them. 3. You are new here. THINK about how outragous your claims are (regardless of their truth). You might want to garner some respect around here before you start sugesting respected folks with thousands of posts are full of $hit. It's as simple as 1, 2, 3. Otherwise you won't be hearing from me again - I simply won't waste my time. Neither will anyone else around here that has any real knowledge. GD

Install a used Hitachi carb and manifold. Throw a rebuilt kit at it.... that's the cheapest solution but not the easiest. Hitachi carbs are not the most forgiving things on the planet. They are finicky - took me half a dozen before I got proficient at rebuilding them to the point where they would run correctly every time. There's also the difficulty of knowing how to hook up the Hitachi correctly with it's assortment of vacuum and breather lines - you won't have any idea how to hook it up completely because your under hood diagram is for a carter/weber and you don't have another car to look at. Most of that stuff can be stripped off, but you have to know how, and what can/can't be removed to do that Easiest solution would be to get a Hitachi manifold, strip everything but the PCV, heater control line, brake booster, distributor advance, and EGR - then install a Weber 32/36 DGV (used they aren't bad on eBay - look for them from VW's, etc). The Weber will be easy to setup and is a mild performance upgrade as well - better throttle response. Plus rebuild kits are cheap and availible everywhere as they are very popular aftermarket carbs. GD

Based on the loose mounting and the parts store advice, I'm guessing you have the Carter/Weber single barrel carb as opposed to the more common Hitachi two-barrel unit. The parts store is pretty accurate - kits really aren't availible. Your best bet is to swap it over to the Hitachi (manifold has to swap as well) - you will find availible kits as well as the potential to swap over to a weber. You could swap to the SPFI (fuel injection) from the later EA82 engine.... GD

There is no help for you. Sorry kid. But I would enjoy watching you fail at trying to prove to the audience here that you have ever put 18 psi into an 82t. Either you are a lier or you just have really poor insturmentation. Anyway there's still no help for you. What the hell is wrong with the education system these days? GD

Given your skill level, I'll tell you right now you need to stick to 1990 and newer, no Loyale's, and no XT6's. That legacy you posted would be an excelent choice. Brat's, I'm afaid, are well outside the bounds of what you are looking for. Parts are not availible for the most part, and there are few auto shops out there that are willing or capable of working on them effectively. Stick to the 90 through 94 Legacy, or the first generation Impreza. Parts are everywhere, and just about any place can work on them. GD

You can use an EA81 225mm clutch disc in combination with the XT6 pressure plate and flywheel. It would work, but you are talking about 170 HP on a tranny meant for 90.... if you put enough rubber on the wheels to get decent traction you WILL break that tranny. GD

Change your fuel filter (back by the pump). What you replaced was the vapor seperator under the hood thinking it was the filter. (yeah - I read minds on my stage show in Vegas....). If that doesn't cure it then you have low fuel pressure, a maladjusted float or something else causing a lean condition under load. GD

Adjust the valve lash before you do anything else. The solid lifter engines are supposed to have a lash adjustment every 10k miles. You can inspect for a bent push rod at the same time. GD

I moved the one on my EJ22T without issue (and being a turbo, the knock sensor is quite important). I just moved it to an easier to access spot as the stock location is very difficult to get to. Been there for over a year now - no code, no detonation, no problems whatsoever. Move it and move on. GD

Oh yeah - we are on the same page. Synthtics are useful, but not for what people think they are useful for. It's better, but what the benz guys don't understand is that the life the car will have been exceeded several times over by the time the engine dies of internal component failure. And the neighbor will have already bought something better 10 years prior. Synthetic oil, for almost 100% of these guys, is money spent on use they will never get - maybe their kids if the car lives that long, or the next owner - but it's not an investment they are making for themselves and as such it's a poor investment IMO. Aluminium cylinder's should most definitely be left to lawn-mower engines.... I agree on the tolerances and lets not forget that even dino oil has come a LONG way since the 1960's. Some of the new "super" dino oils might as well be considered a synthetic for most purposes - they are that good. Additive packages have improved immensely as well. GD

It isn't based on what you thnk it is. And there were no similar year counterparts. GD

Glad it cleared up for you - that often happens when you have the heads off. I wouldn't touch the adjustment being that it cleared itself up. GD

The engine has hydraulic lifters and what you are hearing is probably one or two of them that have air in them. It also might need a valve adjustment - I suspect that because you mention head bolts working loose so it's probably been messed with in the past. These engines have valve adjustment on the rockers because prior to 1985, most of them had solid lifters. There is still a procedure for adjusting the hydraulic engines, but it is NOT the same as the solid lifter engine's. I don't have the procedure handy, but it's in the FSM if you have access to one. I might be able to scan it but not tonight. GD

Well - in defence of sythetics, you shouldn't be changing it at *only* double the interval.... and actually you illustrate my prior point nicely - you MUST do oil analysis to find out when to change it. Changing the filter ever 10k is also a must. Between what's lost in the filter, and what's lost through being burnt, the regular top-offs along with the filter change insure that you are always adding some new oil to keep the additive package going strong. I'll give you an example. So I work with air compressors - BIG air compressors. Generally in the 50 to 1000 HP range. In this range, you may or may not be aware, that in the last 50 years the technology of choice has been the oil flooded rotary screw compressor. Now as far as the "oil" they use goes - the earliest machines used SAE 10 oil - otherwise known as turbine oil in the industry. In the 70's everyone switched to using ATF - due to the rise in automatic transmissions in the auto industry, it was plentiful, cheap, and standardized. Well - fast forward to the early 90's and the auto manufacturers changed the formula for ATF - and in doing so caused it to outgas a foul smelling mothball like odor. This did not go over well in the compressor industry. In fact it shutdown some facilities due to the smell - evacuations and such.... not pretty. Anyway - the point of this is that ATF was cheap - and thus so was changing the oil. It HAD to be changed every 1000 to 2000 hours or it would start to go solid. The replacement oil's that have been developed are about 5 times as expensive, but the change interval jumped to 8000 hours. It's pretty much a draw really. But no smelly outgassing! Plus the stuff is so much better at it's job, that the manufacturer's have been able to increase their warranty period. In some cases, as long as you use the super-grade oil, it's up to 10 years! It really does work - that's why the military uses it. But again the only way to make it economical and effective is to DO THE ANALYSIS! GD

Looking at your pictures and realizing you have an '81 brat with the first-gen body I would say it probably never had the AIS spacers. Looks like the manifold should bolt directly to the heads. Subaru did this on some years anyway. You should not use bolts though - they should have studs in the heads due to the nature of the aluminium threads. GD

Yep - see my comment above about about people that buy cars for no good reason at all except to one-up their neighbor. My industry (industrial machinery) uses a lot of synthetics. And for good reason I might add. They really do work - although it's *mostly* just a way to keep from changing the oil so often. Don't do your proper oil analysis and submit the paperwork on it and you'll void your warranty - I kid you not! I work on a lot of German pumps. They are the most silly, obtusely designed things imaginable sometimes. I don't know what it is about the German engineers, but I do get sick of their shenanigans at times. German cars are no different (especially the newer stuff), and thus I would expect the type of people that gravitate towards owning them either have no sense of practicality at all, or simply own them for their "prestige" and just don't give a damn how much it costs. Either way - those folks can all go broke putting synthetics in their cars - I'll just laugh at them and their gullibility. GD

Heli-coils are designed to return a completely stripped hole (no threads left at all) back to the correct thread size and pitch. They generally include a drill and a tap to oversize the hole in preperation for the installation of the coil itself. So to answer your question - no that's not a problem. Trust me - I do this stuff every day. A simple heli-coil will fix your problem. GD

Heli-coil is much easier and the result will be stronger than the original threads. What is your issue with making a simple thread repair? GD

I think he bought the car (running) with that carb setup already on it. The swap seems to have been done by the previous owners. As for the sight glass - I don't think I have any EA82 carbs around here to look at. I have a single EA81 Hitachi that I keep for no good reason at all - it's a spare and I've rebuilt it so on the shelf it sits..... GD

As far as what's wrong with the EA82 - some of it is the heads, yes. Up to about 200 HP it's the heads and the head gaskets and the head bolts. Here's how you get to 200 HP: 1. Switch the head bolts to studs. ARP will make you a set for about $1000. They are a totally oddball size - 11mm. Note that you have to remove the engine from the car if you want to pull a head when using studs. The reason they used bolts is so you wouldn't have to do that. 2. O-ring the block. It's the only way you are going to get the fire-ring on the head gaskets to hold the pressure. 3. Forged pistons. Another custom animal but not as expensive as the studs. 4. MegaSquirt and very good monitoring equipment. You need to monitor EGT's for both heads, cylinder head temps, wideband for mixture control, and a lot of hope and prayer that you don't have an injector fail..... That would get you to a reliable 200 HP. Beyond that and you are talking about more than the 3 main bearing crank can handle and the heads would never make it. And at the end of the day it will never be as cheap or reliable as an NA EJ22 with 5 pound of boost - which generally comes in around the same 200 HP. GD

SPFI = 90 HP Early MPFI = 95 HP Spider MPFI = 105 HP USDM Turbo MPFI = 115 HP JDM/EMD Turbo MPFI = 135 HP At least that's how I have it remembered. Someone will correct any errors I'm sure.... GD

I think pretty much every Hitachi carb made in that era has a sight glass. I know the one's on the Suzuki Samurai's had them as well. Just judging by the backwoods, cobbled together nature of that car I wouldn't think they would have modified the manifold to fit the EA81 carb the the EA82 manifold. The bolt pattern is different. It's definitely an EA81 airbox though - that they cut the air intake bit with the carb heater port off of. Maybe the throttle base for the EA82 carb would fit the EA81 top?!? I doubt that but it's the only way I could think of that it could have an EA81 carb on it. GD

Looks like they used an EA81 airbox but that is definately the EA82 manifold and carb. In one of his pictures you can see where the upper radiator hose is located which gives away the EA82 manifold - the EA81 carb won't bolt to the EA82 manifold so I'm assuming it's got a complete EA82 setup on it. It wouldn't cost that much to go back to SPFI. Check and see if the ECU is still there or not..... you can post in the wanted forum for the parts. I'm sure someone has a setup they would sell. GD

Exhaust tubing is very thin wall. Running a decent bead on it is difficult for beginners. A small MIG welder is best - running gas sheilding. You need to clean the area to be welded very well in order to run a decent bead. GD