GeneralDisorder

Crank circuit is pretty simple. Start by testing the starter by jumpering a wire from the battery to the male spade on the back. If it cranks then you have a wireing problem, if you still get only a click then you have a dead battery or a starter/solenoid problem. GD

So what problems are you having with the Weber? GD

To answer "is the car worth the conversion".... well it depends on a lot of factors. 1. How many miles are on the car? You happen to have picked up THE most reliable engine Subaru ever made. They will happily do 300k and many make it to 500k or more miles. The EA81 is almost unkillable. The carb was the weakest link and probably why a good portion of the one's that have been crushed were removed from the road. Fix that and it will probably continue to run for the usuable life of the body. Transmissions are a different issue. All of them have their quirks. The 4 speed's (4WD) have third gear syncro issues and the linkage often gets loose over time. The 3 speed automatic's are prone to their own types of failures and rarely last much over 200k. The 5 speed (2WD) transmissions are pretty decent - usually suffering also from syncro failure somewhere in the 150k to 250k range - depending on how they are driven. All of them can be replaced with the later 5 speed (4WD) transmissions from the EA82 series cars - these are known reliable to 500k or more miles. 2. How nice is the car? Interior? ect? 3. What do you plan to do with it and for how long? Now - as for the ECS light.... that means the engine was equipped with the "feedback" carburetor. Basically it's a computer controlled carb. I'll give you the short answer on this: Replace the carb and manifold. I could go into the gritty details but there's no need - trust me you need to replace the carb and manifold on this one. Don't worry - nothing has to change - you can install the carb and manifold, and just unplug the computer - everything will run just fine and the light will go away. The slight hessitation is either a vacuum leak, improper idle mixture/speed, improper timing, or the accelerator pump has ceased to function. Anyway the best remedy is to replace the whole mess and do away with all the lines and hoses. GD

EA81's had oil coolers for the turbo (same turbo). This was done because the original turbo's were not water cooled. You could, however, adapt the EA81 turbo oil cooler to the EA82 - it screws on between the pump and the filter. Note that it ONLY cools the oil supply to the turbo. It does not cool the full flow of the pump. GD

I would pull the rocker arm assemblies and verify that the pushrods are properly seated in the lifters. Then reinstall them and give it a valve adjustment. There is no way to adjust the valve timing on the EA81 - it is gear driven and completely fixed unless you pull the cam out - which requires splitting the block. GD

I'll forwarn you ahead of time - most of the users of this board are in the US and unfortunately we never received the Justy II here. I don't know if there are message boards that are more friendly towards that model or not, but here it is almost unknown. In fact I would say this is the first post that I've ever seen mentioning a "Justy II". The Justy in the US ended in the early to mid 90's and Subaru has not decided to fill that niche market up again - they don't import anything that small anymore. GD

Have you changed the manifold gaskets? Carb/Throttle body base gasket? Coolant can only enter the manifold a couple of ways - mostly through the carb/TB base or the manifold-to-head gaskets. GD

It is usually an issue with the switch contacts. They get dirty - often cleaning them will take care of the problem. I would give the pull method a try as well - can't hurt. GD

There is a speed limiter in the ECU. If you disconnect the speed sensor signal from the speedo-head that should disable it long enough to make a run. I've hit 110 without issue so I should think that 130 wouldn't be difficult. Unless you run out of RPM's - there is a fuel-cut at 6500 RPM on the stock ECU. GD

The starter's haven't changed significantly since 1981. The old starter from my Brat got rebuilt and installed on a 97 Outback not long ago. There are some BS differences in the gear-reduction vs. non gear reduction. It doesn't matter - they will all interchange and work just fine. 4EAT is no different than 3AT, 5 speed, etc. There is no need to buy a new one. Replace the brushes and the solenoid contacts. If it still doesn't work, or especially if it only works intermittantly, the problem is the ignition switch and/or harness. Install a relay activated by the original solenoid wire that passes current directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal. GD

Yes, I did enjoy my work.... but really I enjoy wrenching on just about anything. Sooner or later I probably would have got bored when there wasn't anything more to learn about that industry so maybe it's a good thing. I learned a ton doing it and my resume is better for it - and I don't think any prospective employer will fault me for being laid-off for "economic reasons" durring this reccession. I have reccomendations if I want them and I wasn't the only one that got the ax..... I'm treating it as an opportunity. Been laid-off two days and already bought my first rig to fix and sell - bought a '99 Forester for $1500 that needs HG's. Got the garage cleaned up and in shape - setup my tool box from my old job and I'm ready to rock and roll. I pickup the Forester on Wednesday and I'm ordering the parts I know I need for it tommorrow. No messing around for me. Every weekday I go to work - no different than when I pulled wrenches for someone else. Unemployment will cover most of my bills but my goal is to bring in MORE than I made working for someone else. GD

150 ft/lbs is the spec for all the 36mm axle nuts. GD

Just follow my directions and you'll be fine. Get the two taps, and some all-thread and you'll be golden. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. GD

The surfaces do need to be clean and dry. No oil residue present. It's also a good idea to use something like the Loctite Primer-N - it allows the sealants to better attach to the metal surfaces and contains curing agents, etc. GD

I honestly have no idea how I do it. Mostly I just try to get *something* done every day. Between my House, Yard, Garden, 6 Subarus, 2 Fords, 1 Nissan, 1 VW, Aging parents, Girlfriend, 40 hr/week job, Bills..... I really am clueless as to how it all doesn't just fall to bits on any given day. I was laid-off on Friday :-\ so I'm sure I'll have plenty of catch-up time for everything else. GD

As part of a larger performance update to the EJ22, the hydraulic lash adjusters were dropped as they put pressure and thus performance robbing drag on the cam lobes. The solid lifters only need adjusting every 100,000 miles (thus can be done at t-belt interval) and this change along with several others netted something like a 15 HP increase with little to no loss in effeciency. GD

Yep - only 97 and newer. GD

Got it for $1500 So we had some really freakin hot weather a few weeks back - 106 at one point. Durring that the radiator burst at the upper tank seam. Ever seen that before? I'm wondering if a head gasket completely went on the poor thing. I'm going to try replacing the radiator and driving it the 15 miles back to my garage. What are my chances? Car looks nice - a few rock chips on the hood. New Toyo tires. All receipts. A/C works, CD player, recently detailed, etc. I think I'll do alright assuming I don't have to buy an engine for it . It's a nice looking ride and they have taken good care of it. Lots and LOTS of reciepts from the dealership. I think it will serve someone well. She said she thought the HG's had been done at one point - I'll have to go through the reciepts and look.... the phase II's go through them that fast? GD

Are you SURE you have fuel? Dump a little in the throttle body with the intake snorkus removed and see if it kicks over a bit. You might have a dodgy fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or? You need air, fuel, and spark. It should at least *try* to start if you have those and the timing hasn't changed. How are you determining that the belts are unbroken? Sometimes a few teeth can strip off the belts and cause the cam gear to slide on the belt - pull the outer covers if you haven't already and roll the engine over by hand inspecting the belt teeth as you go. GD

Just tap it over to 7/16x20. You can use a bolt for that one stud if you choose although it's better if you get some all-thread and make a stud for it. It's really no trouble at all. I can see how it's frustrating though if you don't have the time, money, or resources to conquer it quickly. Buy two taps in the 7/16x20 variety. Grind the tapered end off one of them to make a "bottoming tap". Tap it with the virgin tap, then the bottoming tap to get the last few threads. Cut a suitible length of all-thread, taper the cut ends to dress the threads and install. Easy as cake! GD

The write up is here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html But you can't use any of the turbo parts for the swap. That's a completely different system and requires the MPFI EA82 heads with dual intake ports. EA81's never had heads like this. GD

With the amp connected and powered you should have 12v to the coil + side with the ignition ON. If you don't then you have a bad ground or a bad amp. GD

That is the ignition amplifier - it is used to trigger the coil from the ECU signal. They are known to occasionally fail, but it's not common. GD

Either the screw fell out of the rotor, or one of your belts snapped. If you have fuel and spark, then you have improper valve or ignition timing. GD

If the caliper is frozen on the pins it could be holding the caliper body away from the disc. Thus allowing the piston to have excessive movement till it contacts the pads or the disc. Might need to bleed the MC as well. GD