GeneralDisorder

Try a different distributor. I've had one's with clean spark that still didn't run worth a damn. GD

Nope - they list the whole carb for $238 but no rebuilt kit. I have several bare manifolds around here that I don't need if you are looking to do a Weber swap. I also have a Hitachi that I've rebuilt and stripped of all the uneccesary paraphenalia, but it's been modified to accept a manual choke. You can get manual choke control cable kits from most parts stores - I think the one I used in my '83 hatch was $15... but that may not be how you want to set up the car for your daughter. This carb was my final effort, after 10 years of tinkering with them, to modify away the shortcommings of the stock Hitachi carb. It works well but it will never be a Weber or throttle body injection. I don't *really* want to part with it due to the efforts I put into making it run without all it's jewerly, but I also don't have any future plans for the poor thing and I know you need one built this way so.... make it worth my while and I'll send it attached to a manifold and ready to bolt on. As I said you will have to install a manual choke cable and teach her how to use it because I don't have the time nor the inclination to try and put it back to an electric choke - don't think I have the parts to do so either. GD

It is likely very close to 1 7/8" Anyway that should be close enough to do the job. GD

88 and 89 GL turbo's were often equipped with the Full Time 4WD single range 5 speed with diff lock or the Full Time 4WD 4EAT automatic. It is NOT AWD - it is FT4WD - there is no VC, only a center diff (lockable for true 4WD in the 5 speed). If you hang one wheel off a ciff you will be stuck unless you lock the diff. Not so with AWD - hang a wheel out over a cliff (or several) and you will still drive away without locking anything. XT6's got a similar transmission but in 3.9 final drive. GD

1.5 to 2.5 GD

The 32/36 would not be a good choice due to it's progressive linkage - it would be difficult to get both secondaries timed just right and I think you would have a nightmare of a time getting all the transitions correct. They can be modified for simultaneous linkage, but the different barrel sizes will play havoc with tuning them. I think you would be better off going with two single-barrel carbs or even something like the 38 DGAS. Why not drop the manifold and just bolt a carb to each head? You would need to fab a coolant cross-over and a way to do hook in the upper radiator hose but that's doable... GD

Mixture screw is only for idle mixture - base setting is 2.5 turns out from bottomed. I still think your timing is off. Are you sure you got the fireing order correct and in counter-clockwise order starting from 1? The distributor rotates counter-clockwise which is not intuitive.... at least for me. I have to get it straight in my head every time I do it. GD

Pull the plug and stick your finger in the hole. The comp. stroke will push air past your finger. GD

With #1 at TDC on the comp. stroke, turn the flywheel BACK till you get to 8 degrees. The rotor then points at whichever plug tower on the cap you want to be #1. The fireing sequence is 1,3,2,4 so you install the wires from the #1 tower in counter-clockwise order. GD

Here's the one I posted pictures in of the PCV setup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99600 Will it cause damage? Eventually you will eat the bearing surfaces inside the engine if you don't get rid of the acidic exhaust blow-by. GD

You will get more response if you follow these sugestions: 1. Speak in english. Full sentances. Use spell-check. If you can't be bothered to speak the same language as me, then I can't be bothered to respond. And MOST of the members here will follow that trend. We have no need of members that make the board difficult to search and besides that it's disrespectful. 2. If you have specific technical questions, ask them. You have asked exactly ONE nebulous question to which there is no good or single answer - despite that, you have received numerous answers that apparently were not to your liking so you have dismissed them. 3. You are new here. THINK about how outragous your claims are (regardless of their truth). You might want to garner some respect around here before you start sugesting respected folks with thousands of posts are full of $hit. It's as simple as 1, 2, 3. Otherwise you won't be hearing from me again - I simply won't waste my time. Neither will anyone else around here that has any real knowledge. GD

Install a used Hitachi carb and manifold. Throw a rebuilt kit at it.... that's the cheapest solution but not the easiest. Hitachi carbs are not the most forgiving things on the planet. They are finicky - took me half a dozen before I got proficient at rebuilding them to the point where they would run correctly every time. There's also the difficulty of knowing how to hook up the Hitachi correctly with it's assortment of vacuum and breather lines - you won't have any idea how to hook it up completely because your under hood diagram is for a carter/weber and you don't have another car to look at. Most of that stuff can be stripped off, but you have to know how, and what can/can't be removed to do that Easiest solution would be to get a Hitachi manifold, strip everything but the PCV, heater control line, brake booster, distributor advance, and EGR - then install a Weber 32/36 DGV (used they aren't bad on eBay - look for them from VW's, etc). The Weber will be easy to setup and is a mild performance upgrade as well - better throttle response. Plus rebuild kits are cheap and availible everywhere as they are very popular aftermarket carbs. GD

Based on the loose mounting and the parts store advice, I'm guessing you have the Carter/Weber single barrel carb as opposed to the more common Hitachi two-barrel unit. The parts store is pretty accurate - kits really aren't availible. Your best bet is to swap it over to the Hitachi (manifold has to swap as well) - you will find availible kits as well as the potential to swap over to a weber. You could swap to the SPFI (fuel injection) from the later EA82 engine.... GD

There is no help for you. Sorry kid. But I would enjoy watching you fail at trying to prove to the audience here that you have ever put 18 psi into an 82t. Either you are a lier or you just have really poor insturmentation. Anyway there's still no help for you. What the hell is wrong with the education system these days? GD

Given your skill level, I'll tell you right now you need to stick to 1990 and newer, no Loyale's, and no XT6's. That legacy you posted would be an excelent choice. Brat's, I'm afaid, are well outside the bounds of what you are looking for. Parts are not availible for the most part, and there are few auto shops out there that are willing or capable of working on them effectively. Stick to the 90 through 94 Legacy, or the first generation Impreza. Parts are everywhere, and just about any place can work on them. GD

You can use an EA81 225mm clutch disc in combination with the XT6 pressure plate and flywheel. It would work, but you are talking about 170 HP on a tranny meant for 90.... if you put enough rubber on the wheels to get decent traction you WILL break that tranny. GD

Change your fuel filter (back by the pump). What you replaced was the vapor seperator under the hood thinking it was the filter. (yeah - I read minds on my stage show in Vegas....). If that doesn't cure it then you have low fuel pressure, a maladjusted float or something else causing a lean condition under load. GD

Adjust the valve lash before you do anything else. The solid lifter engines are supposed to have a lash adjustment every 10k miles. You can inspect for a bent push rod at the same time. GD

I moved the one on my EJ22T without issue (and being a turbo, the knock sensor is quite important). I just moved it to an easier to access spot as the stock location is very difficult to get to. Been there for over a year now - no code, no detonation, no problems whatsoever. Move it and move on. GD

Oh yeah - we are on the same page. Synthtics are useful, but not for what people think they are useful for. It's better, but what the benz guys don't understand is that the life the car will have been exceeded several times over by the time the engine dies of internal component failure. And the neighbor will have already bought something better 10 years prior. Synthetic oil, for almost 100% of these guys, is money spent on use they will never get - maybe their kids if the car lives that long, or the next owner - but it's not an investment they are making for themselves and as such it's a poor investment IMO. Aluminium cylinder's should most definitely be left to lawn-mower engines.... I agree on the tolerances and lets not forget that even dino oil has come a LONG way since the 1960's. Some of the new "super" dino oils might as well be considered a synthetic for most purposes - they are that good. Additive packages have improved immensely as well. GD

It isn't based on what you thnk it is. And there were no similar year counterparts. GD

Glad it cleared up for you - that often happens when you have the heads off. I wouldn't touch the adjustment being that it cleared itself up. GD

The engine has hydraulic lifters and what you are hearing is probably one or two of them that have air in them. It also might need a valve adjustment - I suspect that because you mention head bolts working loose so it's probably been messed with in the past. These engines have valve adjustment on the rockers because prior to 1985, most of them had solid lifters. There is still a procedure for adjusting the hydraulic engines, but it is NOT the same as the solid lifter engine's. I don't have the procedure handy, but it's in the FSM if you have access to one. I might be able to scan it but not tonight. GD

Well - in defence of sythetics, you shouldn't be changing it at *only* double the interval.... and actually you illustrate my prior point nicely - you MUST do oil analysis to find out when to change it. Changing the filter ever 10k is also a must. Between what's lost in the filter, and what's lost through being burnt, the regular top-offs along with the filter change insure that you are always adding some new oil to keep the additive package going strong. I'll give you an example. So I work with air compressors - BIG air compressors. Generally in the 50 to 1000 HP range. In this range, you may or may not be aware, that in the last 50 years the technology of choice has been the oil flooded rotary screw compressor. Now as far as the "oil" they use goes - the earliest machines used SAE 10 oil - otherwise known as turbine oil in the industry. In the 70's everyone switched to using ATF - due to the rise in automatic transmissions in the auto industry, it was plentiful, cheap, and standardized. Well - fast forward to the early 90's and the auto manufacturers changed the formula for ATF - and in doing so caused it to outgas a foul smelling mothball like odor. This did not go over well in the compressor industry. In fact it shutdown some facilities due to the smell - evacuations and such.... not pretty. Anyway - the point of this is that ATF was cheap - and thus so was changing the oil. It HAD to be changed every 1000 to 2000 hours or it would start to go solid. The replacement oil's that have been developed are about 5 times as expensive, but the change interval jumped to 8000 hours. It's pretty much a draw really. But no smelly outgassing! Plus the stuff is so much better at it's job, that the manufacturer's have been able to increase their warranty period. In some cases, as long as you use the super-grade oil, it's up to 10 years! It really does work - that's why the military uses it. But again the only way to make it economical and effective is to DO THE ANALYSIS! GD

Looking at your pictures and realizing you have an '81 brat with the first-gen body I would say it probably never had the AIS spacers. Looks like the manifold should bolt directly to the heads. Subaru did this on some years anyway. You should not use bolts though - they should have studs in the heads due to the nature of the aluminium threads. GD