GeneralDisorder

The locks, windows, and sunroof are not computerized on these models. They are relatively simple circuits - windows and locks all run through the master switch on the driver's door and if that's got problems then none of it will work. I've also seen rodents chew up wires under the passenger kick-panel and that cause all kinds of issues such as these - windows, fuel pump wiring, etc all run through the front/rear harness interface located in that area. O2 heaters..... maybe a fuse although I would need to consult diagrams on that one. We still don't know why the 30a fuse for the fuel pump blew. We have no evidence of a high current draw but the pump was replaced prior to any meaningful testing being performed so it's anyone's guess on that account. My money would be on rodent damage somewhere in the harness. I've seen a fair amount of that over the years. Especially cars that have sat for periods of time. This is the kind of problems that make you crazy. I spent 8 months tracking down the wiring manufacturing defect in my M1079 (the Army truck you saw at the shop). I am quite sure the military was never able to fix it and that's why it had 1500 miles on it in the ~10 years they owned it and no meaningful maintenance was ever performed till I got it. GD

It all basically bolts together, yes. The 02 to 05 WRX platform cars and the 04 STi are the usual donors. Subaru made these in turbo variants in other countries so it's just a matter of acquiring the parts to put it together. It's quite easy really. GD

I would be asking $10k. These are rare and someone will be wanting to turn it into a 22B clone. They will pay for the privilege of the chassis. You are looking for someone that's wanting to spend $50k building their dream. Price their canvas accordingly. Consider what it would cost in fuel alone to transport a rust free example from the west coast - not to mention your time to track one down. You have to pay to play. This isn't a vehicle you are selling based on it's value as a medium of transportation. This is a rare unmolested canvas upon which dreams will be painted. Price it accordingly. GD

Never seen such a modification. I would plug it if you are removing the AOS. If you can I would suggest removing the valve cover, and tapping the hole used by the barb fitting for an NPT brass Allen plug. GD

The RX is the same as any other EA82T. So yes it will work no problem. GD

The phone tracks things you don't even realize it's tracking. Here's an example - in China so called "payday loan" apps are very popular. These apps determine your credit worthiness by all the usual metrics - your "credit score", your employment status, and all that normal stuff we think of when we think of getting a loan. But they track other things because they are a phone app - one of which I guarantee you haven't considered is the "state of charge history" of your phone's battery. You see they have found that people who regularly charge their phone's battery at nearly the same time and location are more "credit worthy" than those that have more sporadic charging amounts, times, and locations. You can extrapolate from this example how much information your devices track and you can see that there is NO END to the uses that your "provider" will find for said information. Imagine all the metrics they are looking at that you haven't considered or don't even realize exist?!?! In terms of your modern connected Subaru - what do you suppose they do with your digitally enhanced, recorded and function-fit fuel level data stream? Anyone?!? Sadly it's nigh impossible to get completely away from it. The best practice seems to be to abstain as much as possible from these "technologies". In reality they provide little in terms of actual benefit to the user other than entertainment and a good book will provide more than these devices could ever hope to offer. Reading and Doing (in that order) are two of my most important goals. I credit those two habits with virtually all of my success in business, mechanics, electronics, software development, etc, etc. Watching TikTok videos, playing with "friends" on social media, and being subjected to incessant advertising is for those that will end up giving ME their money for the privilege of having my knowledge and power fix their IOT junk and reconnect them to their drug habit or their wage slavery. GD

As a former software engineer that was, once upon a time, asked to implement SDK's for fingerprint scanners, and "facial recognition" among other insidious invasive hardware/software (circa ~Y2K), I can 100% inform you that any internet connected device is PRIMARILY used to sell product. What product you ask? Your data is the product. Where you go, what you do (how long you spend there) and any other habits that can be gleaned from the sensors connected to your vehicle. It's an ongoing revenue stream from hundreds of thousands of vehicles willingly purchased and happily connected to the IOF (Internet of Things) and reporting everything it can back to the mothership. This data is collected, processed, and used against you to sell you more products and services that you never knew you needed..... GD

They should be serviced. Regardless of what Subaru marketing says. Our recommendation is every 60k miles. Fluid is cheap. Transmissions aren't. Newer model CVT's no longer carry this lifetime fluid recommendation. And they have a suspiciously short maintenance interval for "severe service" - the definition of same being absurdly broad and encompassing such things as "stop and go driving" and "ANY amount of towing". That out of the way, these transmissions are absolute trash. They fail constantly and I wouldn't be surprised if it was reaching end of life at 150k. MANY failed within the extended warranty campaign that Subaru was essentially forced to put them on - 10 years, 100k miles - due to the extremely high failure rates. Metal "shavings" should never be something you see in a healthy transmission. You are going to see some amount of glitter to the fluid - these transmissions still have plenty of wet clutches in them and that clutch material is "semi-metallic" and as it wears it does produce "glitter".... which is different and distinct from "shavings" - which are generally large enough to easily identify individual pieces. GD

Compression test really won't show an early stage ringland issue. Oil consumption is typically higher in that cylinder. You can just do a cranking cadence test. Push in the clutch and hold the gas pedal all the way down. This will shut off the injectors and put the computer into "flood clear" mode. When you crank it you can then listen to the engine. If it sounds like every cylinder is even then it's likely fine. If it sounds like you would imagine the theme song to a three-legged dog would sound then you have an issue. We do this as a first step on cars with consistent idle misfires, etc. \ The best insurance against ringland failures is a good tuner that knows how to keep them from breaking. Detonation is what does it, and the factory Subaru maps as well as some of the COBB maps have as much as 8 degrees too much timing in them. We have pulled 8-9 degrees out of some of the cars and only lost about 2 HP. That's a massive safety factor gain. GD

Absolutely. '04 to '06 are the most common years for pickup tube failures. GD

We stock them for the same reason. Comebacks due to random misfires from poorly connected coil packs are common. We replace the housings anytime we find broken ones and the customer gets charged $15 per. Just the nature of these. GD

Don't bother with the junk yard. Those always break from heat and age.: The H6 uses the same connectors as the WRX. Just call iWire and get a 6 pack. All you need is the housings - you can depin the wires and slip them into a replacement plastic housing. No splicing that way. https://iwireusa.com/products/black-and-white-coil-pack-plug-kit GD

There's a class action on rod bearing failures. Engine replacement cost is rarely less than $10k. I have no less than 6 of that exact chassis awaiting engine builds at my shop currently. Wouldn't touch it with someone else's dirty d1ck beaters without lots of records and a thorough inspection including FILTER CUT and detailed inspection of contents. Young man will have REALLY high insurance costs. Manual transmission and turbocharger are both HUGE red flags to the insurance providers. Likely going to be $300 to $600 a month to insure it for a new driver. Transmission and drivetrain on them is pretty solid but he's going to burn through clutches. That model is easily capable of 315 HP @ THE WHEELS with an intake, exhaust, and a custom tune. That's not the 265 HP that's advertised. That's 360 HP at the crank and that's only going to cost him about $2k to get it there. He likely already knows this and isn't telling mom. He will be dangerous in short order or he will pick a poor choice for a tuner and blow it up. See my first sentence...... Honestly a terrible idea for a first car. GD

The later shimless engines have specs of .30 to .40mm. That's 12 to 15 thou. If you didn't hear a bunch of valve train noise then run it. It's not a swiss watch or a space shuttle. It's closer to a dirty, noisy, farm implement. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. GD

Was it noisy? If not leave it alone. Valve clearance specs increased a bit after the bucket/shim engines. If it's not noisy and didn't throw any shims..... run it 🤷‍♂️ GD

No they use the larger one's only used on the 2002 WRX EJ205 (one year only). After the '02 model year the EJ205 went to shim-less buckets: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2002_Legacy-30L-AT-4WD-Outback-Wagon/Shim-Valve-T=229-T=230/49225351/13218AE790.html Click on the "what this fits" tab. Sadly the cam follower is specific to only the EZ30 and so it does not appear it can be upgraded to the shim-less bucket like the early EJ205. GD

These vehicles are an orphaned, dead product. Your options are searching for new old stock, finding used parts, or modification to use parts from newer cars like the Legacy platform - which can be done but if you have to pay someone to do it for you it's a waste of money. Just buy a Legacy. They are dirt cheap for the 90's models which are also going to be unsupported and orphaned in the next few years and mostly already are in terms of cosmetic parts. Most mechanical stuff is still easily obtainable though. OTOH I can buy virtually every part for my 80's GM's. Lots of reproduction and tons of options. The choice is easy for me. GD

Usually almost nothing on a good engine. And the name is HIGHLY misleading. They are ABSOLUTELY NOT "Air/Oil Separators" - they are "Air/Liquid Separators" and the distinction is very relevant since engines produce large amounts of condensation during warm up. This is generally directed into the cylinders and burnt by the stock breather system. In an AOS it is saved and mixed with the normal small amount of oil vapor to produce a nasty concoction of milkshake-esque sludge that coats and restricts the normal operation of the PCV and breather system. It is honestly a horrible idea for a street vehicle. Catch cans and AOSs are RACE CAR parts. They can serve a function in a racing environment to solve specific problems related to ulta-high performance engines. These are engines that see intermittent use and have highly accelerated maintenance requirements - part of which is to clean and service these accessory systems to prevent clogging and empty collection vessels, etc. These are NOT appropriate for street use. GD

Check with Subaru? They periodically pull in stock from Japan..... Options will not increase they will continue to decline. Old Subaru's are not old Chevy's. Try to find ANY part for an 360 or even an EA63 or earlier.... crickets. There will not be more made or more suppliers interested in making these parts. There's essentially zero market for them and it's not profitable. GD

Throw away the AOS. Those are for idiots and people with blown engines. Buy all the factory PCV and breather hoses and put it back to stock. Make sure the turbo stay brackets are in place. If those are loose or missing it can lead to flexing of the oil supply line to the turbo and they can crack. Also if you don't know the origin of the tune - get it properly pro-tuned on a dyno before a previous owners bad decision claims your rod bearings. GD

Nice work. Yeah for suspension bushings you would want something stiffer. The carrier mounts were always real soft which is why I suggested 60. GD

Yes and the pivot ball can get pretty wrecked as well. I concur on ordering a new fork and pivot ball to have on hand. GD

Get the updated separator plate and bolts from Subaru. Yours will be plastic and cracked and leaking. And get a new wrist-pin access plate o-ring from Subaru as well. DO NOT touch the rear main seal unless it is obviously leaking badly. Slight dampness from clutch fibers wicking oil out of the seal is normal. GD

No clue on that one. Need pics of the insides and even then..... Israel got Brat's till like 1994 so it could be some weird thing that the rest of the world never saw. Probably similar to other ND or Hitachi electronic distributors though. GD