GeneralDisorder

The short block will work. But everything else is different. GD

Not that you couldn't (easily) make one. But dear god.... WHY? That stock Hitachi junk is exactly that - JUNK. You get what you pay for and it's not impossible to fit a weber under a stock appearance air filter. GD

It would be comparatively rare to see a burnt valve at 108k. Typically don't see these before 150k+. Remember the first valve adjustment is required at 105k..... But the 205 doesn't typically suffer from piston failures either so...... You have a mystery on your hands for sure. If it were me and you have low compression, I would hookup either a leak down tester or smoke machine to the cylinder in question and find the source of the loss before tear down. Best to know what you are looking for rather than guessing. Can't really say much more than that at this point. Need to find the cause. GD

Subaru and Nissan use different Weber adapter plates so I conclude it will not fit. Besides. Stock Hitachi carbs have too much extraneous plumbing and smog related equipment. GD

Any three way solenoid valve that has similar coil resistance will work. For that matter so will a 4 way valve. You can get a generic MAC valve for probably $40 - $60 that should work. We plumb all kinds of weird stuff for custom applications and installations. GD

You can't rebuild an EA81. You can't buy oil pumps for them. Who is going to do a rebuild without a new pump? Not to mention *I* won't rebuild one without doing a mainline hone and no one is setup to do that to an EA. Best thing to do is just find a 90-94 Legacy and do a swap. We can easily put a LINK on it and it will have parts available well into the future. GD

Subaru is discontinuing their reman axle program. We just found out last week. We have recently had good luck with an aftermarket brand from one of our wholesale suppliers. Chinese of course, but seem to be working well. I have no doubt the boots will not last as long as OEM. They are branded "Suretrak" and are coming from a partnership with an east coast parts retailer by the name of "Parts Authority". They are around $100. Or you can order new NTN axles from Subaru for $499 each. GD

TD04? I got stacks of em. GD

Yeah you can't "rebuild" the turbo. Not really. Because they must be dynamically balanced as a complete assembly at about 150,000 rpm. The "rebuild kit" you see for sale is laughable. This really can't be done in even a professional environment due to the lack of ability to balance it when done. GD

"rebuild kit" ? What exactly are you going to attempt here? What you need is a CHRA. Melett in the UK makes the one's we use. GD

Sure. The LINK can handle AC easily. My Trans Am has a LINK and my AC has been converted to R134 using a 7 piston Sanden compressor for a semi tractor. . Also since these packages come with the auxiliary I/O harness to run the external MAP sensor, you will already have the necessary inputs to tell the LINK the AC is running and to increase the idle, etc. Incidentally the AC system has nothing to do with the FI on these cars, you just need some input to tell the ECU that the compressor is running so you can adjust the idle. Or you can just set the idle a little high anyway and let it drop a little. Lots of ways to do it. GD

Sure you can do it that way and just trailer it to the dyno and apply the hour to that instead. Typical dyno tuning runs about $500. That's for a solid, safe tune, with dyno printouts, etc. Things like launch control and anti-lag, etc are ala-carte additional options as Jason likes to put it. On an as-requested and case by case basis. I can ask Jason for a rough idea on each. Of course the maps are not locked and you are free to experiment with those features on your own at the track, etc. Being a stand alone that has full programmability, there are a LOT of features and setup of some of them can be quite time consuming. Think of launch control like adding NOS or meth.... it all takes time on the dyno. More features, more time. But you can't ask for a better tuner than the vice president of the manufacturer. LoL. GD

We pour Amsoil at my shop. But there are also other good options. Rotella isn't bad, but it is not specifically designed for performance gas engines. Subaru filters are pretty aweful. Made by Honeywell the parent company of Fram.... we prefer the WIX filters as the have a correct pressure relief valve that is up-front before the elemant. Amsoil filters are great too. Just expensive.

Nothing new really. PDX Tuning (our tuner, Jarrad) built an EZ30R twin turbo for Perrin over 10 years ago. Was in the neighborhood of 650 wheel. GD

Run a 5w40 synthetic in it. 30 is too thin for longevity and hard driving. We use 5w40 Amsoil synthetic in all Subaru's that aren't under warranty. Anything over 400 crank HP we run 15w50. GD

Wrong filter will not cause the codes. Possibly dirty oil would. Not just being non-synthetic though. The oil would have to be really poor and very dirty though..... We run 5w40 as a rule in all turbo engines and all our race motors get 15w50 and we NEVER get AVCS codes. We always reroute the turbo oil feed to the block main gallery behind the manifold. GD

Cut the oil filter and check for metal. Could be a timing belt tensioner - hard to tell from the video. If it's a rod, you will see metal in the filter. DO NOT drive it. You will wreck the cylinder heads and they are EXPENSIVE. Best deal going is the Subaru reman short blocks for about $2350. Cylinder heads will need complete disassembly and cleaning - especially the intake rocker assembly - of all contaminated metal. In the US this is usually about a $5,000 to $6,000 repair. GD

That forum does not apply to the XT6. The XT6, much like a Loyale, is an EA (ER actually) chassis vehicle and as such absolutely belongs in this forum and this forum only. READ the forum description. Which one says "XT6"? That is all. GD

You have never done a brake caliper? Brake lines have banjo bolts going way back.... But yeah you need new copper sealing washers jus like a brake line. You pull the banjo bolt, use a pick to pull out the filter, clean with some evaporating degreaser and reinstall. GD

Trans in park. Run it till the flow indicates the pan is empty. Change the filter after. GD

But the Subaru pans have a drain plug. So I'm not seeing how that's really all that useful. And if you unhook the cooler supply the trans will pump it out for you if you are doing a full exchange. GD

You can disconnect the cooler supply hose, run the engine till the pan is empty (about a gallon), then fill it up and run it again till you get to clean fluid at the cooler supply and fill it a third time. It's a bit of a process but it can be done. We generally just recommend two services a few hundred miles apart and that typically does the job. But I have done it the complete exchange method when changing fluid types on race transmissions and such. We use the Amsoil EA15K12 filters for the transmission. They are about $15 and are rated for this application plus they are a much higher quality filter than stock. We have been using them for years and not a single issue to report. We also use synthetic Amsoil OE ATF. It is compatible to both older Subarus as well as ATF-HP. much easier to just stock the one type and it far exceeds both of the required specifications. GD

They have them for the AVCS solenoids, yes but they are not used for the turbo oil supply. On the years I mentioned they have three - one for each AVCS supply, and one for the turbo. After that they eliminated the one for the turbo supply. The AVCS ones can fail or clog but it causes no real collateral damage. GD

Cheap knock sensors are a REALLY bad idea. Just because the sensor meets the ECU's expectations of circuit resistance says NOTHING about it's ability to accurately profile the noise from the engine and trigger the ECU's knock detection threshold correctly. The sensor is a piezoelectric microphone and buying the cheap ebay ones is the equivalent of buying dollar store earbuds and trying to listen to high definition audio. The accuracy of the sensor depends on MUCH more than the resistance of the circuit used by the ECU to determine if it's failed or not. They are also "tuned" to listen to specific kilohertz frequency ranges. Anything from about 2Khz to 17Khz can be found on different engines and the determining factor on knock sensor frequency is largely the bore and stroke of the engine. So for reasons of accurate knock detection it is a bad idea to give the ECU a different model of sensor other than what it was designed to listen to. GD

I will say that a proper explanation from Shawn would be a lot more helpful than deleting the previous thread. Why can't we all just work this out and help both parties to a mutually beneficial solution? I've got a lot of use from this forum and I thank Shawn for maintaining it for us. I would chip in for shipping to get this transmission to his customer if that's what needs to happen. I don't see this being that difficult to resolve and I don't see how ignoring it or deleting it will help either. GD