GeneralDisorder

1. Put the choke back on - use the Hitachi's rubber spacer to get some height and then put a dent in the PS reservoir large enough to clear the choke. No it won't hurt it. 2. Whichever vac line on the distributor pulls on the advance plate is the one you hook to the carb. Leave the other open. 3. Hook the EGR line (or add a line going to the EGR valve) to the other port on the front of the carb - the one that's currently blocked by a small brass screw. 4. Yes you need the power brake booster line. Leave it. 5. Use the throttle linkage from the Hitachi - just bolt it on the Weber's shaft and then fabricate a holder for the throttle cable and adjust it so the cable is just barely tight when the choke has pulled off and the fast idle cam is not engaged. 6. Warm it up before tuning the idle speed and mixture. The mixture should be at around 2.5 turns out, and the throttle plate should be barely cracked open. Just tune it by ear - turn the screw out till it stumbles (rich) and then in till it stumbles again (lean) and pick something in the middle of those two. Usually as lean as you can get it with a solid idle. GD

The guy who wrote that.... which apparently wasn't you. Being that you asked, I find it disconcerting that you wish to lash out at me for providing what information I could. I doesn't engender an environment where I wish to help you in the future. GD

Bolt pattern is the same but the EA82 holes are about 2mm larger diameter. One of them is thicker by about 2mm - can't recall which just at the moment. The step spec for the pressure plate is slightly different. All of these can be overcome for swapping them in any way you like. It's a matter of using the right clutch components - some EA82 discs for example will not fit inside the EA81 pressure plate. GD

In all seriousness I wouldn't try that - at least not with a sealed bearing as I'm not sure what would happen to the rubber seals and the grease inside. I'm pretty sure some greases will break down if you freeze them like that and I would be concerned about the differential contraction rates of the steel and the rubber seal. I think you would probably regret the results. As I don't have any liquid nitro to play with I can't say for sure.... I would rather wait for the deep-freeze to do it's magic. GD

The mixture screw is only for the idle mixture - which can affect the transition from idle circuit to primary but will not affect anything once the throttle has been cracked open. If you want to make changes to the primamary and secondary circuit mixtures you will need to start changing jets and air bleeds. I sugest investing in a wide-band O2 sensor for tuning if you are really serious about it - takes much of the voodoo, ritualistic magic out of tuning carbs. The Weber is a good choice for replacing the stock carb if carb technology is what you are looking for (and many folks are). It's not a "performance" enhancement and never has been touted as such (at least by me). It will increase your off-idle torque simply due to the progressive linkage and many folks have mistaken this for a performance increase - in a way it is, but the HP of the engine has not changed appreciably. It makes them feel a bit more sporty and sometimes that's all they need. If you want real performance increase the Weber is *capable* of supporting the mods neccesary for it - porting and polishing, and cam changes being the most common. The 32/36 can nicely accomidate modifications if you rejet it as you go. The stock carb cannot. The SPFI is a better choice in my opinion as it will do everything the Weber will do but requires no tuning even for mild performance modifications. GD

Classic hydraulic lash adjuster ticking. Check this thread - i made a post about the procedure to track down the cause. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102428 GD

It's the additives that make it different - it's all based on glycol - we have run across similar problems with import equipment at work. The Isuzu engines that come to the US from Japan have a coolant that does not have a direct replacement here in the states. Anyway - if you flush out ALL the original coolant it can be replaced with something like Dexcool (which is the modern GM long-life coolant) that's available anywhere. It's really not rocket science - it's glycol with some additives. The color is meaningless as there is so much variation in the industry that it's impossible to tell anything about the stuff from it's color. What you are looking for is a long-life glycol mix that is not going to attack plastic, ferrous metals, or aluminium. Dexcool will suffice and as long as you do a thorough flush you won't have problems with additive interactions. GD

The only difference is two wires on the distributor. Or you can simply pick up any 88+ EA82 FI distributor to go along with your 88+ ECU and you will be fine. GD

You need two per wheel so if you do both wheels you are looking at 100 bucks - plus the ones from shucks won't be -2RS (sealed) so you would need grease and you will be packing them yourself..... no thank - not for that kind of money. Lets see.... you are in lake-o so head over to applied industrial off tualitin-sherwood - call first and make sure they have them in stock though as they aren't as big as McGuire. The freezer trick works good when you would rather avoid heating something or when you don't have a big enough torch. GD

Yes - just swap the flywheel from the engine you are taking out to the engine you are putting in. GD

Yes - the TB stays on the manifold. GD

Sounds like bad front wheel bearings. For each wheel you will need (2) 6207-2RS-C3 ball bearings and two seals. After you remove the wheel, brakes, and axle, you can drift the bearings out with a punch. Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and they should go in with minimal effort. I get my bearings from McGuire bearing downtown - $10.12 each but that's with my company discount. And yes - I would replace your thermostat. Get one from the dealer as they are superior quality. GD

If it fails, remove the JB weld, use a die-grinder to put a slot along the crack and then fill it with Devcon. Or just have it TIG welded - that would be a simple repair. Hell we broke 12" off the end of a 36" aluminium pipe wrench handle at work. My boss TIG welded it back together and I've had all my weight on a 6 foot cheater pipe hanging on that repair. If the engine runs and doesn't overheat - I say weld it and save the work of putting in another engine. Don't be surprised if the JB weld doesn't hold. Especially if you didn't make a slot for it to get more purchase on the edges of the crack. GD

Get some Devcon for Aluminium - JB weld is not the right stuff to use for that type of repair. GD

I have EA82 rear coil-over's on my '84 wagon - they are far too stiff with the torsion bar in my opinion. I would get the air-shocks as sugested. Rancho probably makes one that's a direct replacement for the longer plain shocks you have now. GD

You get an ecu or you use something like MegaSquirt which is a configureable, open-source fuel and ignition management system. Then later when you want more than 95 HP you can just plug in another engine, change a couple parameters and away you go! The stock ECU's are simple and availible around this board and the XT specific board. I believe an EA82 turbo ECU will work as well as the MPFI was really just a high comp. turbo fuel/ignition system without the turbo. GD

The "tick of death" or TOD is, fortunately, anything but. It does not herald the end being nigh. In fact, no permanent damage will EVER result. You'll just have that crappy noise for eternity. The engine will still happily do 300k before it loses a major internal component. TOD is a symptom, not a problem. It is the result of air being inside the pressure chamber of the hydraulic lash adjuster (as opposed to oil, which is what it should contain). TOD has three primary causes: 1. Low oil pressure to the lifters. This is caused variously by either worn out oil pumps, leaking seals, or bad HLA banjo-bolt releif valve springs. 2. Aerated oil. This is the result of certain seals (the mickey mouse seal primarily) sucking air into the oil passages and sending it downstream to the HLA's. 3. Dirty lifters. Crud builds up inside the lifters and does not allow them to purge air bubbles or take in clean oil. The solutions are as follows and should be performed in the order given as it proceeds from least expensive to most expensive. 1. Check the oil pressure with a known good mechanical gauge. You shouldn't see less than ~ 15 psi from a hot idle directly off the pump. If you do then the pump needs to be replaced. 2. Reseal the pump to be sure it's not sucking air into the system. 3. Add some ATF, MMO, Rislone, etc to the oil - this is to clean the lifters - sometimes it works but often it's very temporary in nature as the true problem lies elsewhere. 4. Replace the cam case o-rings and check the banjo-bolt pressure releif valve spring in the cam carrier. 5. Replace all the lifters. If you do it in that order it will be cured. I can tell you that it is very likely that you will have to do #5. After they have been allowed to tick for a considerable amount of time the lifters are so worn they will not hold pressure anymore. GD

You need an EA82 carb distributor and coil. They are hall-effect units with integrated ignitors. You will lose performance going away from the MPFI - I would reccomend just wiring up the injection - it's a really simple system. GD

Yep - sounds like a lifter. If it's just a single lifter try a quart of ATF with the oil. GD

Heh - yeah I understand where you are comming from. I don't work on Automotive for a living so I can't be quite as picky. Actualy there's almost nothing I work on that I really despise - with industrial machinery form nearly always follows function and for the few designs where that isn't the case..... well they don't last very long because no one wants to maintain them In fact the older the machine is, the more keen I am to work on it and expand my knowledge base and understanding. It's amazing the things you learn when your boss drops a 1960's peice of kit on you and says "tear it down". 50% of the time I'm without any kind of documention and about 10% of the time I'm not even sure what the "item" does or is being used for . I'm dead serious - sometimes we have to call the customer and ASK them what they are using it for and the approximate performance specs it should meet! It's a very different job for sure. I particularly enjoy the variety though - you never know what tommorrow will bring. GD

Old Subaru's in general command almost nothing around here. Under $1000 for a good running Gen 1 Legacy. It's downhill from there. My '83 hatch was $250, and I was recently given a '93 Legacy LS wagon for free - I drove it home after replacing the alternator ($130). The last Legacy I actually paid for (besides my SS which is another story entirely), I paid $750 - it needed a timing belt/water pump job. GL's and older are worthless here. I see ads on craigslist wanting $500 for good running EA82's - even '88/'89 D/R cars. The adds get reposted week after week - no one is buying them. I suppose eventually they drop the price or scrap them. No one wants them. I have no more room - 6 is my limit. I think primarily it's a supply and demand thing here - VERY large supply, and less demand due to the relatively mild winters. The only people buying old Subaru's are the poor ski bums and the board member types. GD

He has an '87 three door coupe if it's got the EA82. This "knock" - what does it sound like? Could it be a lifter tick? Could the belt be off a tooth? Just having a belt snap will not damage an EA82. This knock is either unrelated, pre-existing, or due to incorrect assembly/adjustment. GD

+1 - don't use the EA82. Use an EA81 or an EJ22. EA82's are nothing but problems. GD

Sheet metal vibrations - sometimes a well placed blow with a ball-peen hammer will cure it. We had a customer with a pump that made a "strange noise" - the tech listened carefully to it..... went out to the truck and got his ball-peen hammer - smacked the motor fan shround with it one time.... no charge. GD

Use lifting straps - chain is not the prefered method for overhead lifting these days. Nylon/synthetic straps are better. Typically for an unbalanced load I use one or two straps and a small come-along to level it. GD