GeneralDisorder

Change your plugs and wires. Your are probably seeing it mostly on hills and "loaded" because that's when the engine try's to richen the mixture for power and your are not getting proper ignition. These engines seem to like annual plug changes - the wires are cheap so I generally do both. GD

It can be done but Brat's never had power windows so likely the harness plugs are not there. You need all the stuff from a power window equipped coupe as they were the only large door body ever equipped with PW's. Your glass will work with the PW tracks. GD

There were pictures posted a few years ago of a Gen 1 coupe or sedan that was converted to electric. Wasn't cheap IIRC, but it was pretty neat. Retained the 5 speed front wheel drive and adapted an electric motor to it. GD

I would caution against resealing EA81 oil pumps - by the time they need it they are generally totally worn out. Replace the pump and see where you are at. You did put the spring back in that controls the pressure right? Did you inspect and measure any of the tollerances in the pump? Most of them that I have torn down are badly scored from people not replaceing the oil filters soon enough and dirty oil bypassing the filter and eating the insides of the pump. I have thrown away probably half a dozen that were totally chewed. GD

'86 on 2WD GL's and possibly some CA models. GD

Sounds like either the bowl is emptying under full load (low pressure, float adjustment, clogged filter or screen, etc), or you have some blockage in the secondary circuit. Check the spray pattern of the secondary - it definitely sounds like you have a severe lean condition when you open the secondary. GD

No - it's legit. Used to be a fairly common practice to bob them like that. Helps the departure angle quite a bit. Probably in Austrailia by the looks of the bumper, etc. Plus the picture's file name says it's a Brumby - that pretty much pegs it for certain. GD

The 170 AC should be in the primary, not the secondary - larger AC's lean out the mixture which is not what you want for WOT operation and the secondary is larger - requiring more fuel. You probably won't have to change the pump jets, but check the emulsion tubes to be sure they are F50's. That's the common one for our application so they are likely to be correct. GD

It just depends on what you are looking for. Oddball stuff in metric sizes is hard to come by in the states. I live in a large city (biggest in OR), and I needed some simple (so I thought) 6mm steel tubing. Had to get it shipped up from CA.... no one has a lot of this stuff and it's very often a case of buying the tooling and making it yourself. GD

The 4 speed's have a lot of disadvantages and personally I wouldn't want to run one with near double the HP of what they were built for. I think you should definitely swap it out. You could even use the push-button trans you have for now - they bolt-up identical and the only difference in the linkage is the addition of the 4WD lever and rod - which IIRC will bolt to the push-button linkage tray. You can use the 4 speed's 4WD lever - you just lengthen it by 1" and it hooks directly to the 5 speed D/R - the interior looks completely stock. GD

The EA82 TO will not work with the EA81 trans. The reason you didn't see it mentioned is simple - in large measure people who are swapping out the EA's for EJ engines are not using the 4 speed transmissions. They have syncro and linkage issues, and the gearing in them isn't suited to lifted rigs, etc. Most folks are dropping in the EA82 5 speed D/R or FT4WD transmissions as they are better designed. I think having the flywheel surfaced to the EA81 specs is probably the best solution although I would be tempted, in your case, to find a 5 speed since you already have the flywheel for it. GD

IIRC, the issue is that the EA81 throwout isn't large enough to properly contact the pressure plate fingers on the EA82 pressure plate. You might have to cut some material off the back of the throwout bearing holder to get it to work.... I'm not sure. If you could take a picture of this Nissan TO bearing that would help me - I've heard of people using them but I haven't inspected one personally. GD

You mean they work for 5-lug swapped EA82's right? Being he's swapping 5-lug to an EA81 I can't see them even fitting (Assembly wise). GD

I don't think it would weaken the trailing arm, but without some rubber bushings in there..... it wouldn't be quiet anyway. You could weld the bar right to the trailing arms it you didn't care about ever disassembling it GD

Swap it to a 5 speed. You won't regret it. GD

Sounds like the flywheel step is too large and it isn't gripping the disc. But that's just conjecture. There's always the possibility the flywheel was ground to the wrong specs if it was resurfaced. GD

It does not attach to the car - it IS a sway bar, not a torsion bar. A sway bar simply acts to keep the trailing arms LEVEL. It accomplishes this by attaching to two points on each arm (the brackets you are referring to). As the arms move in unison (both up or both down) the sway bar has no effect. If one moves up and the other down however, the bar resists this motion as you are trying to twist it. All sway bars work on the torsion principle - they resist being twisted and that action is used to keep the control arms at the same relative height to the body - IE: parallel to the horizontal line of the car's body. Front bar's also have four mounts - the body mounts are simply there to keep the bar parallel to the body because there is only a single mount on the control arm - the arm being a strut control arm, does not move in-line with the sway bar arms - unlike the rear trailing arms that do. Thus it cannot act with the action of the sway bar ends and two of the mounts are moved to the car body. GD

The middle section of the bar ties into nothing - it mounts ONLY at two points on each trailing arm. There are no bolt holes for the mounts - they are welded to the trailing arms. If you don't have the mounts you either have to make them, cut them from another car and weld them on, or swap the whole trailing arm. GD

Actually, the Panasonic deck from that era is the only one of the two (Clarion being the other) that has the Aux jack. They switched to Clarion in 92 IIRC. So it's actually only the 90/91 LS+ double-din deck that has the AUX jack on the front. It is a direct swap into the 92 through 94 cars though - I have a couple spare units from the JY and I recently swapped one into a '93 LS wagon as the original deck had worn buttons and no AUX jack. Personally, for the price and hassle of the "kit" I would rather just buy an aftermarket deck that has the features I want etc. I bought a Sony deck over a year ago now and it's got the AUX jack and it has stereo bluetooth - I don't even have to use a cable. I play all my music through the bluetooth connection to the deck - streamed right from my phone. And if I get a call I can answer it through the stereo. This cost me about $150 back in '08 (they are cheaper now), and all I had to do was plug it in - Cruchfeild included the adaptor harness and I snagged a double-din pocket from the junk yard for my '91 SS. FWIW - my GF's '07 Impreza Outback has the AUX jack in the flip-open compartment below the stereo - came stock that way. GD

Sounds like they don't have any qualified tech's at that dealer to work on that system. Testing parts prior to replacement is the key - obviously none of them know how to run a DMM or an O-scope. Much of the system could be monitored through back-probing of various connection points using an O-Scope to check the signals to the climate control system, etc. GD

I'm sure the original poster doesn't care anymore - being this thread is over a YEAR old. :-\ Good luck finding an adapter for a cap. tube - you will probably have to make something. The electric gauge's (like the stock unit in the cluster) have much smaller sending units that fit better - they are simply thermistor devices and don't have a lot of depth. The oil pump has multiple ports for sending units or idiot lamp switches - the preferred port is 1/8" NPT on the EA82's and 1/8" BSPT on the EA81's. The stock sending unit can then be removed and the port plugged. I have a selection of the plugs for the larger port through buying new oil pumps over the years - they always come with the OP sending port plugged as the DL's didn't have OP gauges. You can also make a plug by cutting the end off the stock sending unit, tapping the hole in the brass to 1/8" NPT and inserting a standard pipe plug. GD

It attaches to the trailing arms - two mounts on each arm. GD

Right - I should have said "any non-turbo, hot-wire MAF, XT ECU's" GD

You can install the EA82 rear coil-overs - that will stiffen it up (too much IMO), but you can do it and if you *declock* the torsion bar you could adjust the stiffness by changing the springs on the coil-overs. You need to make adapter brackets to mount the coil-over to the stock shock mount. There's nothing you can do to change the stiffness of the stock torsion bar. You can change the height of it by clocking it or adjusting the nut but the stiffness is an inherent quality of the size of the bar and the length of the trailing arms (which I'm sure you don't want to change). GD

The adapter plates that have been designed thus far are only for going from the '81+ side-starter EA series bell-housing to the side-starter EJ bell-housing. They are actually VERY similar and the mod works because they went to a thin, flat flywheel on the EJ's and the EA flywheel is a thick, heavy affair. Thus you can add the 1/2" of adaptor plate, use the thick EA flywheel on the EJ engine, and come out with a combination that works very well. The top-mount starter bell-housing are simply not condusive to adapting - and those transmissions only came in single range. The only Gen 1 Brat to have a dual-range transmission was the (rare) '81 GL. All other's had 4WD high range only. A dual-range 4 speed would probably fit the best but there's good reasons to not want one of those. The 5 speed would be doable - it would almost certainly require some mods to the trans tunnel sheet metal to fit without a body lift. The turbo would be a pain to fit as there was never a Gen 1 engine cross-member that would allow the up-pipe to reach the turbo. You could do some really oddball exhaust work and make it function but it's going to be really strange - might have to locate the turbo on top of the engine or under it - maybe up front near the radiator. And I'm still pretty sure the radiator will not clear an EJ22 crank nose without mods as well. Side pipes? I'm not following what you are asking. The exhaust has to run to a collector and through the turbo so you are going to have a single outlet exhaust system with any single-turbo system you might come up with. If you are talking about running the exhaust out the side behind the wheels or something.... yeah you can do that but it doesn't buy you anything. All the exhaust problems are forward of the engine cross-member and inside the engine bay. After you exit the turbo it's down and straight out the back where the stock muffler is located now - that's the easy part. A gen II Brat would be MUCH easier. They made engine cross-members in '83 and '84 for turbo exhaust, and basically the EJ22(T) is a bolt-in with the right adapter. GD