GeneralDisorder

For the power steering rack you have to change the whole cross-member, but yes it will work - there are no differences between 2WD and 4WD steering racks. But the power rack's take a different engine cross-member to mount up. For the cruise - you don't want the EA81 cruise system - it's a terrible affair with a gigantic vacuum pot and a double throttle cable with a big box spliced into the middle, etc. Use the EA82 system and just install the EA82 pedal assembly - the whole mess is under the dash that way and out of the engine bay. GD

Maybe '86, but I don't think the 3 door body was available in '85. I thought they came out in '87 but maybe I'm a year off. GD

Heat is sometimes the only way in my profession - getting it hot first then dowsing it with yield often wicks the stuff into the threads or helps to bust up the rust/corrosion/tar, etc. We work on all kinds of stuff - asphalt pumps are notorious for not coming apart - we had a 24" pump a while back that never did come apart - they had friction welded the shaft to the cast iron housing - had to send it out and have the shaft line-bored out of the housing because the housing was worth $18,000 and the customer wanted it saved and rebuilt. Sometimes not even a good penetrant is enough . It gets scary when you have a 50 ton hydraulic press pushing on red-hot parts that you know you can't lift even when they are cold..... GD

It's just gear oil - 75w90 will work fine. Get a couple of the squirt-bottle style quarts and fill it through some 1/2" clear tubing - use about 4 or 5 feet of tubing to clear the bumper and have a friend hold the bottle and squirt it in. There's a drain hole and a fill hole - you fill it to the bottom of the fill plug hole - just till it starts to run out then plug it. GD

That's not an RX so it's most likely a tranny-swapped Turbo GL. Probably was a push-button car originally. GD

Pictures would be helpful. GD

That's an ER27 but the issue with the radiator is similar. GD

Could be low on fluid, but if so you probably should just replace the diff. They rarely fail though - pull the rear cover and inspect it. GD

Well - if it's better than Kroil (which I haven't used) as you sugest, then it should score rather well. One thing I don't see is how long they allowed them to penetrate before performing the test. And it would be interesting to see how they perform with heat applied first or durring the application of the product. Sometimes how you apply it is just as important as what you apply. GD

Some sheet metal from the looks of it. Probably nothing else. Definately not what I would start with and not where I would end things if I was going to do up a forester. GD

You may have gone too large with that secondary jet - it sounds like it's having trouble at part throttle on the secondary side. You may be flooding it when the secondary first starts to open. What jets were in it before and what is in it now? I can tell you what may be happening better if I know what jets you are running. I think you are getting a lot of power at wide-open-throttle because the air-bleed is leaning it out just enough to counter the super-rich secondary main jet - it's still rich but it should be pretty rich at wide-open-throttle anyway. GD

The major problem is in relocating the radiator. The engine will be in the way. GD

Just about anything will fit with modification. I generally use EA82 or Legacy seats when I convert. Nothing out there is a straight bolt-in. If you are looking for more height (lower seat), the best I've found is from an 80's Isuzu Impulse. 3 of the 4 holes for the EA81 rails line up on them. That's about as close to bolt-in as you are going to get. EA82 seats are easy to adapt - you make 4 tabs to weld to the seat frame to offset the rails inward by 1.5" IIRC. I just wrap the seat in wet rags and weld the tabs on - bolt on the rails and bolt them into the car. Takes about an hour. GD

Honda and Toyota both have used starters with compatible contacts and brushes. There are posts about this over on NASIOC - IIRC there are links to some ebay auctions where you can get contact and brush sets for real cheap. Worth the 15 minutes to replace them yourself IMO. GD

I should think that any ECU for an EA82 Turbo XT should work. I know people have tried to retro-fit the "spider" manifold from the XT to their regular EA82 Turbo engines with mixed results - the major difference I believe is that the regular turbo uses a 3 pin TPS and the XT used a 4 pin TPS (something along those lines anyway - I'm no expert in EA82T's - I can tell you how craptastic of an engine they are, but the MPFI they used isn't my area of study you might say....). You might make a seperate post about asking about converting from a standard EA82T manifold to the spider manifold as that is really what you are going to be doing. The XT has it's ECU in the trunk - so the wiring harness is completely different and much larger. But there are much more knowledgable people on this board than myself with regards to the ins/outs of the EA82T's MPFI variations. GD

The "new" engine is from a Turbo XT. Not really "newer" per-se, just a different model. They were made alongside the regular turbo. The block and heads are the same so you could swap over to your old stuff. If you get an ECU from another hot-wire MAF turbo car you could use the manifold and electrical components from the XT engine..... you might need the ECU from the XT though for the TPS..... I'm not totally sure on that one. In my opinion it would be desireable to use the XT stuff if you can. There's definitely more work involved in doing that so it's a call you will have to make. GD

The accelerator pump boot is only there to keep dust out - it will not cause a problem if it's ripped. The seal for the pump is on the end of the shaft. GD

The FI distributors use needle bearings that are easily replaced - sadly the carb units (which didn't need the accuracy that the optical pickup in the FI units required) used bushings which are press-fit into the housing and may need to be reamed or line-bored to size. GD

The shaft bushings are failing - they can be replaced. There's some threads on here about the necessary part numbers, etc. I'm not sure if the old bushings need to be reamed out or if the new bushings need to be reamed to size or not. Replacing the bushings is not something I would attempt if you have never done such things but it is possible. Better to just pickup a used one - someone on this board will have one laying about. All the carb EA82 distributors are interchangeable. GD

Open it and replace the contacts. GD

All the scavenging you need is done in the stock header - before any cats. The cats should flow as freely as possible. If you think you might be down on mileage and can't find any other reasons - it's worth a look inside the cat. I picked up about 3 MPG when I opened up the cat on my '83 hatch. The contents were completely gone and the metal brackets and mesh screen were wadded up in the outlet. Bumped me up to 26 MPG from about 23 (engine has a low comp. cylinder). GD

There is no difference in how the two-row units connect. They are functionally identical - about 3/4" thicker is the only difference. There is no fitment issues with them. That said, you don't need it. Singe row is just fine for a non-turbo. Just remember to replace your coolant at least every two years. GD

If you want to clean your engine, run a quart of ATF and three quarts of inexpensive oil for 500 miles. Do this several times. Rislone has similar results but is more expensive. GD

If the engine should overheat for any reason, the thermostat will lock in the open posistion and will never close again. It's to insure that a severe overheat will not result in the thermostat failing in the closed posistion after it cools. GD

I don't think he's talking about swapping the whole DOJ - I think he's just swapping the outer race of the DOJ - the "cup" portion. Thus mixing wear components, but it will effectively yeild a working joint if you find the right size 25 spline cup to match the inner race of the stock EA81 DOJ. That way no shaft splines would come into play. GD