GeneralDisorder

Harbor Freight has a set that goes up to 17mm for like $12. I wouldn't be surprised if the smaller ones broke easily but 14mm is pretty big so I wouldn't guess that strength would be an issue. I have a set that I've impacted quite a few times with my 650 lb gun and never broke the larger sizes (12, 14, and 17). GD

Typically you can get those nuts off with a breaker bar and a big hammer. Wear a glove and hit the breaker bar close to the neck. Just keep at it - it will take some time. It's a poor man's impact. But it does work. Hell I removed one the other day with a Harbor Freight 1/2" ratchet handle with the whole spindle off the car! I just kept hitting it and it eventually spun off. Took about 10 minutes. I was being lazy and didn't want to turn on the compressor GD

14mm allen socket and an impact (or breaker bar if you can't get an impact on it). GD

Yeah - that sounds like a typical Hitachi stumble Have you sprayed around for vac leaks? Having given it some thought - the feedback system would have nothing to do with an off-idle stumble like that. It's got to be with the carb itself - either there's a vacuum leak and the idle speed/mixture is out of adjustment (it would have to be to run with a vac leak), the accelerator pump isn't strong enough, or the throttle plate isn't sitting on the transition ports correctly. The feedback system is largely for idle and cruise operation - it's not capable of making adjustments fast enough to affect acceleration, and it's not going to be useful for WOT. What does it do when you just *barely* expose the transition port? Just slightly holding the throttle cracked away from the idle stop screw? Will it run with the throttle plate almost completely closed or do you have it "turned up" using the idle speed screw? If so that's indicative of a vacuum leak. GD

That fixes your problem because you aren't putting any torque on the ratchet. It is merely there to hold the removal tool - you strike the tool with a large hammer and it acts like an impact gun. The 1/2" drive hole in the tool is actually for a breaker bar to keep the tool from bouncing all over the place when you hit it. It is the BEST way to remove axle nuts if you don't have an impact. I carry one with me in my junk-yard tool kit. At home I have air so I don't need it, but it is indispensable for people that don't have air guns and need to work effectively on the cheap. Also - I know it's probably not in your budget, but a *quality* 1/2" ratchet would likely not have broken. I prefer the Snap-On stuff myself and you can pick them up reasonably on eBay. You can't lose on eBay for Snap-On since they are guaranteed anyway. If you break it just take it to a truck and have the guts swapped out. GD

Being that an EA81 only weighs about 175 pounds - you shouldn't have an issue. If you can, brace the one you are going to use by running 2x4's from it to the roof at 90 degrees to the roof line. This will allow the load to be distributed to the (much stronger) roof structure. GD

You need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Cooled-36mm-Axle-Removal-Tool/dp/B001CTJQLW GD

Actually you don't want to cap that third port on the solenoid - that's the vent port and allows the line from the solenoid to the EGR valve to vent to atmosphere when the solenoid closes - that breaks the vacuum in the line to the EGR and allows it to close if it happened to be open when the solenoid closes. GD

The EJ22 takes about 5 lbs of boost very well actually. There's a number of folks that have added a small EJ22T sized turbo and a WRX IC. At 5 lbs the engine gains about 60 to 70 HP owing to it's already high compression. Since the EJ engines were designed from the outset for turbo-charging, the N/A 22 handles it very well at low boost. You can easily break 200 HP (and be reliable) with one and it's cheap in comparison to other vehicles since most of the parts can be had as cast-offs from someone else's turbo upgrade. But do what you like. Without forced induction there's really almost nothing you can effectively do with an N/A engine that is worth the hassle. If I'm not going to get 20+ HP from it - I'm not taking the time to do it. GD

You just plumb one into the manifold and you try to keep the gauge as high as possible - manifold vacuum decreases as the throttle opens. High vacuum = closed throttle - Low vacuum = open throttle. A vacuum gauge can also tell you a lot about the condition of the engine - if you can read one.... GD

That's pretty typical for the Datsun crowd. Last one I sold to some guy in CA (for a 510) went for about $360 plus shipping. He was very happy. They aren't much good for anything but street vehicles anyway. Off-road they don't really cut it - they aren't designed for the big tires and slow speeds. GD

All the gaskets (including OEM) block that coolant passage. I beleive (although I can't remember the specific's for certain) that when I looked at it last time I noticed that the passage stops shortly after the head-block interface on one side or the other. It's not a critical flow point obviously. GD

I would make sure the entire system including the duty solenoids can flow freely. They only work with atmospheric pressure so any blockage or clogged filter can severely restrict their functionality. I know that's how it works on the non-feedback's, but I think the computer turns the EGR on/off via the aforementioned solenoid on the feedback systems. Thus the code you are getting. No problem - I hate to say it, but it may be cheaper and more reliable to swap out to the SPFI and then register it as an engine swap from an '87 or newer. Being an EA82 already, they wouldn't be able to tell you just swapped the manifold. GD

Check ebay for a radiator - there used to be listings where you could snag a brand new one for like $58 shipped. I got one a few years back for an '87 3-door. Also you should note that in 91 or 92 they changed the lower radiator hose and the angle of the connection at the radiator changed. So if you get a new radiator it *might* have the pre-91 lower hose, but then again it might not. Just be aware of the change and if you get a radiator with the newer style connection just go order a hose for a 93 Loyale. And when you are looking for radiators in parts catalogs also look for the late model Loyale pricing. Because of the hose change it might be a different part number and there's always the chance that it's cheaper. GD

So do you *need* the feedback system to pass your emissions tests? With the CEL on I would assume you don't.... but I ask anyway. When the carb was rebuilt did you remove the throttle shafts? And was there any play in them? I ask because setting the throttle plates in a touchy business and it's best if they are not disturbed.... if you can help it. The rich idle - is that warm or cold? I'm assuming warm as it would be normal for it to be rich when cold and I suspect you know that. On the feedback carbs there are two ports on the side - low speed and high speed "sensing" ports. The carb receives a metered amount of filtered air into these ports by way of the duty solenoids - they turn on and of at a frequency determined but the ECU. It's a sqaure wave signal and many modern DMM's will actually read duty-cycle so it's not impossible to troubleshoot the system. You may have an issue with a blockage on the low-speed circuit - less air gets you more fuel IIRC although it might be the other way around. At any rate this duty cycle is largely determined by the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor. That could be related to the low-speed circuit I was talking about above, or it could be worn throttle shafts, sticking linkage, bad throttle cable, etc. Surging is a good indication of a lean condition. Being that you are having a very rich idle and a super lean WOT..... is there a possibility that the electrical connectors for the low speed and high speed duty solenoids were switched at some point? Or the air lines going to/from then were swapped around? The EGR is probably just the solenoid. An easy fix - just replace the solenoid with any 12v solenoid you have around. The manifold pressure sensor ("boost" sensor) is a tough one. I've never actually found one that was *good*. In my experience they have all failed. The cost from the dealer is really astronomical and it probably wouldn't last any better than the original. This little gem was the death nail for my attempts at making the EA82 feedback system function as designed - and the fact that the engine was totally gutless with the feedback hitachi. My only reccomendation is to source an EA81 feedback ECU and wire it in. They didn't use the MAP sensor. That would seem to indicate that you might have issues with where the throttle plate is set with the choke pulled off. It should basically die if you cut off the idle circuit fuel supply. But then again it may be getting too much air from the low speed circuit - again I might be backwards on the duty solenoid operatioin. It's either more air or less though (as if you couldn't have figured that out ) I wouldn't be concerned about it. The PCV won't affect runnability - it will only cause you to foul the oil quicker if it's not functional. Wouldn't matter if it was. The EA series fuel pumps only put out about 1.5 to 2 psi - not enough to blow the float needle off the seat. I've run plenty of them with no fuel return line at all - Weber's too. It's not neccesary. In fact it's not even included on 80/81 models where the pump is located in the engine bay. I think it's primary purpose was to insure that the pump would have a good supply of fresh gasoline to cool it under all potential operating conditions. GD

Any EA81 radiator (including automatic') will fit. Other's could be made to fit with some fabrication but only EA81's are a direct bolt-in. GD

NOTHING on a Subaru is SAE - 3/4" would be very near 19mm, but 11/16" doesn't have an even equivelent - it's 17.46mm.... I hate parts stores that do that - it's a METRIC car. I wouldn't guess that it wouldn't matter. The size difference is negligible - I would just go with the larger one's seeing as you have an EA82 and I beleive the drums are a bit larger than the EA81's. GD

They have worn a groove in the drum and are binding on it. Get a big hammer. Likely some stuff will get bent and it may fly apart when it lets go..... I think there may be a way to release the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism from the back but I don't remember exactly how it works. GD

Remove the axle nut and pull. Some EA82's had self-adjusting shoe's - if there is no adjuster then they are self adjusting and there is no need to pull the drum except to replace it or the shoes. GD

It would be difficult, it would not reduce weight in the slightest, and it's not the weak link. Running in RWD will eat the transfer gears long before the 4WD engagement system will fail. It's well documented. Start looking for spare tranny's now.... GD

Is your '81 Brat a GL with an EA81? If so you can likely do it (it won't work with the EA71), but the 1981 Brat belongs to the Historic section of this board and as such most of the folks that hang out here in the old gen section have no idea what you need to do to swap in a 5 speed. I know a couple things - first you will have to lower the tranny (possibly the engine as well) or modify the floor-pan sheet metal to accommodate the larger diameter of the 5 speed. You will have to swap in the two-piece driveline from the '89 or have a custom driveline made, and you will have to fabricate a new transmission cross-member. There's very few out there that have done this swap due to the rare nature of the '81 GL with the EA81. In fact they are so rare I would hessitate to modify it at all unless you know what you are doing. GD

Very heavy car - they overheat easily and need rebuilding often. It is not likely to be an easy fix as the overheating causes the fluid to bake and clog up passages in the tranny. ATF is a great cleanser.... except when what you are trying to clean is *bad* ATF! With some modifications you can install a 5 speed (they only came stock with auto's). GD

You have more than I have and *I* have more than should be allowed. Hell I can't keep up with the Subaru projects I have - there's only so many hours to the day when you work a 40 hour week. Are you independently wealthy that you can devote your full time to this!?! I wish that were the case for me . Someday perhaps. GD

Where is it leaking? The vent should be plumbed to the charcoal canister under the hood.... Otherwise all the lines are solid steel except where they attach to the top of the tank - those can only be accessed by dropping the fuel tank out of the car - which is a terrible job :-\ GD

Coat the cork completely in a thin film of RTV and let it dry. The cork tends to absorb oil, which then cooks down and the gaskets end up shrunken and hard. If you coat them in RTV first you are *making* your own rubber gasket. They seal better and last longer. I do this for oil pans as well. GD