GeneralDisorder

10 x 1.25 x 20 ought to do it for the bolts that hold the mounts to the block - you need 4 of them. 2 nuts of the same 10 x 1.25 to hold the mounts to the engine cross-member. GD

The dealership can get them for a couple $ GD

Cracked blocks on EJ22's are unheard of (really unheard of on ANY Subaru - they just don't do that).. Probably radiator - maybe head gaskets but not likely at that mileage. EJ22's are known to go 300k before major mechanical failures. GD

Can you modify the lift so it doesn't put strain on the bushing? Probably a PITA but I don't think anything "sealant" wise is going to stop 150 psi air getting between a poorly fitting rubber-to-metal interface. That's a LOT of pressure - hell sometimes I have trouble sealing NPT threads against that much GD

If they are being strained by the lift.... how is a sealant going to help? Maybe I'm not picturing it correctly.... GD

You have to use the EA82 flywheel to accommodate the XT6 clutch. The EA81 flywheel can be used but it requires that a specific clutch disc be used - not all of the one's made for the EA82 will fit the EA81 flywheel. Some had square(ish) damper spring housings and some are round. The small round one's will fit but thee square units will not and neither will the larger round units like the XT6, etc. Jerry (Bratsrus1) makes a nice kit for that exact purpose and his price is very reasonable for the professional level of workmanship in his x-member. I have used his kit for my Brat, and I also did a mount conversion to my wagon where I used 5 speed mounts on the 4 speed (might give you some ideas): http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html You will also have to lengthen the 4WD shift rod by 1" for it to bolt to the 5 speed. GD

Actually - here's a better post I made with pictures. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=826899&postcount=10 You need the 1/4" diameter line on the driver's side to act as a vacuum breaker for the PCV. GD

If the coupe is not a turbo and it has a 3.9 rear diff it should work fine. It's the turbo models with the 3.7 rear diff and the 1.2:1 low range that are to be avoided (for your type of project - there are people that kill for them for other uses). GD

Typically I like to see 140 to 160 on the comp. No more than 10% difference between cylinders. You have about 26% there. You should at least run it till you get everything normalized (oil pressure, coolant temp, no smoking, etc), And retest the comp. If you still have comp. issues, and you had the valves done? Then I would say you might have a couple scored cylinders or poor ring sealing. That's assuming that the smoke stops, etc. Perhaps the head gasket didn't get torqued down quite right - you did wire wheel the bolts, chase the threads in the block and oil them before torquing yes? GD

The point (in case you hadn't noticed) is that this thread is about EA81's - not EA82's. The EA82 is not in the same league of reliability nor does it share much in common with regards to the oiling system. And yes - I do know a lot. GD

So you going to make it up for the show you think? GD

On EA82's it is normal for the gauge to read zero at idle when warm. It's in the owners manual. You still had enough pressure. GD

Behind the front bumper - there are two - a high and a low. GD

Low/no oil pressure is the only thing I've found that will actually kill one completely dead. I did-in the first engine in my lifted wagon that way - it was originally a digi-dash car and had no oil pressure gauge. It had an idiot light. After a particularly nasty trip to the power-line/logging roads, I was driving back and at the last few stop lights I noticed the oil pressure idiot light was flickering on at idle. I resealed the pump and the light went away..... About 3,000 miles later I was doing 70 on Hwy 26 between hillsboro and portland - the severe knocking started and within 1/2 mile of the start of the knocking it threw a rod out the top of the block. For the reccord - they will NOT run with a thrown rod . When one lets go at 4,000 RPM it takes out the opposite one as well. Two cylinders down, no oil, and no coolant (it punctures the coolant passage under the manifold). No Es Bueno. Now on every EA81 I get I replace the oil pump and make DAMN sure I have a good oil pressure reading. You have probably never seen my wagon as I haven't posted pics in a long time - here's a shot: GD

I did this a LONG time ago (and looking at it, I was still quite the novice welder ). http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html But they are still in place and despite my ugly welds they have held up without issue. GD

Well - buyer beware I suppose. It's up to you to research your vehicular purchases and test drive any prospective purchases. If you didn't like the way it drove why did you buy it? Since I was 16 - so 14 years this coming September (I'll be 30 - yikes! ). Anyway in that time I've owned more vehicles that I can count - I currently have 6 - 5 Subaru's and a 72 VW Squareback. The Subaru's range from '83 to '94. With the exception of the VW (manual steering that I've never had aligned), they all have a right drift. The worst have always been the Fords I've had. I notice it more on the newer Subaru's I have - probably because they have more sensitive power steering than my older models. GD

Interesting - what are you doing that's blowing them up? GD

That is the evap solenoid. If you don't have a check engine light then don't worry about it. It doesn't do anything critical. GD

Most modern vehicles are designed to pull you AWAY from oncoming traffic (yes - to the right) in case of a driver falling asleep, losing consciousness, etc. The idea is that it is safer to go "out of control" with other cars going the same direction you are going - rather than to risk a head-on collision. It is not a Subaru specific design. The alignment *specs* will put it that way if you align it by the book. It *can*be aligned to perfectly straight but the dealer probably won't do it. You would have to find an independent shop willing to set the alignment to a non-standard adjustment. That is *WHY* Subaru (and many, many other manufacturers) have been setting alignment specs to pull to the right for a LONG time. This is nothing new and has been common practice since before I started driving. Sorry - they won't give you a refund. And even if they did - you aren't likely to find another brand or model that doesn't do the exact same thing to one degree or another. GD

I don't work on automotive professionally, but I do a lot of dissasembly and reassembly (industrial machinery). I prefer an impact with a sensitive trigger than I can use as a power ratchet - never much liked the air ratchets I've used. Not long ago I picked up a Rigid brand cordless drill, impact, flashlight, radio combo on sale for $179 at the depot. I must say that I mostly bought it for the impact and I am totally sold on the cordless option. While it doesn't have the power of my big air guns, it does 90% of what I need and can be used for assembly even around aluminium etc as the trigger is sensitive enough to spin stuff in without actually "impacting" it. I also have some big air guns - a 650 ft/lb gun of my personal collection and then in the shop we have some really huge stuff - 3/4" and 1" drive, and then there's the portable hydralic power packs . It can get rather interesting at times..... we were pulling a gear off a shaft a while back and had the porta-power maxed out putting 20,000 lbs on the thing, we had the biggest rosebud on the oxy-torch and the gear was cherry red - and another co-worker was whailing on it with a 20 lb sledge (babbit head). When it let go it shot off of the shaft and flew about 12 feet - landed on an air hose and melted through that - then rolled over to a wet spot on the floor (oil or grease soaked into the concrete) and lit that on fire :eek:. Huge bang and crash - air hoses swinging about wildly - flames and smoke - people yelling..... oh yeah! Needless to say people came running and for a few moments our whole world turned inside out. We have a good laugh about it now though. GD

I've seen a couple EA82's now where the wiring was bad between the sender and the gauge. On an old sedan I had I ran a new wire and it worked fine. I would ground the wire at the back of the cluster and see if the gauge moves before I went and replaced the cluster or pulled the sender. You can check the leads to the sensor for resistance without pulling it as well. It will be a hunting expedition. GD

Almost all of the Beck-Arnley parts are just repackaged OEM parts. I opened a Beck-Arnley engine mount for an EA81 and they had forgotten to remove it from the Fuji plastic GD

Headlights and turn signals on EA81's are separate switches - there is no "multi-function" switch as there are on 87+ EA82's. GD

There isn't really much build info on it. Although there should be . Without a doubt one of the top 5 EA series builds out there. Maybe someday he'll write more of it down and take more pics. He's (I think) still planning to be at the show and I'll try to get as many pics as I can when it's up here. We used to run some of the trails in my area when it lived here but there's been much done to it since I last saw it. I'll let Ian fill us in on a complete list of the mods..... Care to elaborate for the crowd man? GD

Your alt sounds fine to me - 14.3 is within spec. What you have is wiring problems. The voltage supply to the excitation pin on the alt is missing and the sensor line has high resistance. If you run it like this for long it will probably destroy the alt, but so far 14.3v sounds ok. GD