GeneralDisorder

3.6 will make a lot more power but you will have to use like a LINK to run it. No way the factory ECU is going to be happy in a swap. Certainly can be done though. GD

No. They were removed in about 2008 or 2009. They never existed on EJ22T's either. The whole point of them was to trap bits of sealant or casting flash, etc from manufacture and prevent crib deaths of a small percentage of turbos. After the initial break in of the engine they serve no purpose at all and are a huge detriment to longevity not to mention difficult to service. We remove 100% of these and never use banjos with filters on our high performance engine builds. Never have had a single failure. If you must have an oil filter for the turbo then you need to swap to braided -3AN lines and install an inline filter that's serviceable. We have done that but we have also found it's pretty much unnecessary. The EJ22T's are well known for being very long term reliable with respect to the turbos and they never came with filter nor do 10+ models. Subaru realized it was a terrible idea. GD

Can't really find a TA with 250 for what that 96 Legacy is worth. The 3rd gens are rising in value....... LS 4th gens are way out of that price range..... might get an LT1 mid 90's rust bucket for a similar price. No one really wants those at the moment. GD

The 2.2 heads probably make even more torque due to their small intake ports. I doubt they develop the same HP as the high compression 25D. Probably less than a factory 25D honestly. It just feels like a lot because of all the torque and it's probably 20 HP over the 2.2 anyway given the increase in displacement. If I had to guess I would put the 2.5/2.2 hybrid at around 155 crank HP..... might be 180 ft/lbs though. GD

The LINK hardware does support CANBUS, yes. In fact they have plug-and-play boards for the '06 and '07+ WRX/STI. But it doesn't do OBD-II so if you do it on a 96+ you aren't going through emissions testing - they don't support that. Of course not an issue for many people and definitely not an issue for anything that's getting an engine swap. And for the WRX guys you can always throw your stock ECU back in with an open-source modification to get it through testing. Rick

Yes but it's nowhere near 200 HP. Especially with 2.2 heads. We built a full EJ25D with high compression (STI block, pistons, and rods), and used adjustable timing idlers to get the timing spot on. With the 25D ECU in a 98 5MT Forester we made about 145 AWHP. That's about 175 crank HP which is 10 HP over stock for a 25D. It made crazy amounts of torque with a very wide power band - something like 4500 RPM of nearly-peak torque. Pulls hills like a beast. It's not even close to 200 HP though. 2.2 heads will just severely restrict the RPM. It will die off on power above about 5k. Cams..... never had good luck with doing that on the NA Subaru fuel injected engines - it screws up the fuel injection and they throw misfire codes. About all you can do is shift the power up or down - you can't make more of it. And Subaru engines make such huge low end torque that the only worthwhile direction to shift it is up... unfortunately that means generally more overlap, low manifold vacuum and intake reversion which screws with the MAF and you get a rougher idle and misfire codes. It's totally not worth it without the ability to tune and that's not happening on a 96. GD

ESL is a joke, really. They aren't full time developers, and their support is terrible. On top of that it's based on 30 year old factory hardware that could fail at any time and is SLOW. They never did deliver the motorsports features they promised for the V1/2. I tried to work with them on the issues and get them into the US market but they never came through. They just don't want to get their product out there I guess. Robtune is much worse than ESL. Not tunable at all. All you get is an e-tune that's sorta close and still no motorsports features and based on OLD slow factory hardware. The LINK is lightyears ahead of either of those. It's 100% stand-alone hardware. And the have a lifetime warranty. GD

The 91 to 94 Legacy turbo models are not tunable using the factory ECU and other options very limited in features and ease of use. The guys swapping over EA chassis to EJ engines. Lots easier plumbing if you can delete the MAF. The Vanagon and sand rail crowd. Any swap situation where you want to simplify plumbing and not deal with speed sensors, neutral switches, and all that nonsense. The LINK doesn't care about any of that. Also alternative fueling or flex fuel - E85, methanol, Nitrous, and of course power adders. All supported easily. GD

You can't do anything for power unless you put in a 25D complete engine or use the 2.2 heads on a 25D bottom end.

The VP of LINK for North and South America (Jason Oefelein) personally tunes on my DynoJet and helps build our base maps, provides tech support, etc. He is local to us and formerly operated Portland Speed Industries - whom we bought our Dyno from when they closed their doors last year - he liked the product so much he became their VP. He has about 20 years tuning experience and has been using LINK since the early days. Look for a lot more applications such as a likely adapter harness for the 95 to 99 car harnesses, and I'll be bringing LINK to the Domestic vintage GM TBI and TPI applications such as third gen F body, TBI cars/trucks, and C4 Corvettes, etc. LINK has an amazing following and a superb product but has, till now, no presence in these markets and very little North American presence in the Subaru market. Tuning with a LINK is like a dream come true. Once you try it you will never want to go back to anything else. GD

There's nothing to get. The engine is already in the low-mid 90's for volumetric efficiency. Also don't. Rebuild it that is. Waste of time. Get a low mileage used replacement. Or install a 25D bottom end with the 2.2 heads. Rebuilding a Subaru short block is absolutely NOT for the amateur or the uninitiated. And it is WAY cost prohibitive to have it done right. GD

My suggestion is: don't replace either one. The plug wires are not a failure point unless run with bad plugs (excessive gap) or soaked in oil from plug well seals leaking. The coils almost never fail unless treated similarly or allowed to corrode from lack of dielectric grease. NGK for wires, OEM Subaru for coil pack. If you must. Don't fix it till it's broken - change the plugs, clean and lube the coil terminals. Done. GD

We have been working on this for a bit now, and have several units in the field along with a growing library of base maps for running the OBD-I harness EJ engines (turbo and non) on a plug-and-play LINK ECU. With minor changes to a few pins, and running a vacuum line to the ECU you can be up and running with no codes and modern full programmable stand-alone features in a matter of minutes. LINK developed this board for the V1-2 WRX/STI over in Europe, Australia, and Japan. It happens to share the same basic pinout as the USDM EJ22 and EJ22T cars (Legacy 90-94, and Legacy Sport 91-94). The LINK supports full motorsports features such as: G4+ PlugIn Key Features Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 32Mbit internal logging memory Staged injection Knock with "windowing" This is the ECU we use for this application: http://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX2Plus Our kits also include a 3-bar map sensor, and the expansion loom for adding inputs such as wideband O2 (highly recommended), fuel pressure, EGT, or any other input you would like to map to an ECU function, alarm output, etc. Included in our package is our dyno derived base map library for the EJ, as well as technical support, and 1 hour of remote tuning assistance to get you up and running and driveable to your local dyno shop or on the street tuning either professionally or personally. The tuning software is completely free and there are no licensing or other fees associated with the software. EVER! You can freely download the latest version from the LINK website anytime even if you don't own a LINK ECU. The software is very user friendly and has amazing documentation - right clicking on just about anything brings up a help window. Tired of those expensive MAF sensors? Throw it away forever. LINK can run speed density, or use any MAF from thousands of other newer vehicles - frequency MAF from an LS? No problem. Throttle body not large enough? Bad TPS? No problem - adapt a newer model. You can change any sensor to anything you like from any make and model supported in the software. Just pull from your choice of car in the junk yard and change a few ECU settings. NO LIMITATIONS. Tired of the limitations of the OBD-I factory ECU? The LINK ECU package with included MAP sensor, XS Loom, basemaps, and remote tuning assistance are $1499 Here's a Dyno sheet from our shop's 1991 Legacy Sport Sedan. This car is 100% stock with only 3" turbo-back exhaust. Factory rated at 165 crank HP on 8 psi. This is @ 16 psi with a LINK ECU, and redline bumped up to 7200: 176.11 AWHP, and 196.17 AWTQ. Corrected for drivetrain losses that's about 210 crank HP from the stock EJ22T with only exhaust mods. Please feel free to contact me either here, or through Facebook or email for any questions, etc. GD

We have been working on this for a bit now, and have several units in the field along with a growing library of base maps for running the OBD-I harness EJ engines (turbo and non) on a plug-and-play LINK ECU. With minor changes to a few pins, and running a vacuum line to the ECU you can be up and running with no codes and modern full programmable stand-alone features in a matter of minutes. LINK developed this board for the V1-2 WRX/STI over in Europe, Australia, and Japan. It happens to share the same basic pinout as the USDM EJ22 and EJ22T cars (Legacy 90-94, and Legacy Sport 91-94). These harnesses are popular for swaps as they are readily available and cheap from junk cars. They support full motorsports features such as: G4+ PlugIn Key Features Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 32Mbit internal logging memory Staged injection Knock with "windowing" This is the ECU we use for this application: http://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX2Plus Our kits also include a 3-bar map sensor, and the expansion loom for adding inputs such as wideband O2 (highly recommended), fuel pressure, EGT, or any other input you would like to map to an ECU function, alarm output, etc. Included in our package is our dyno derived base map library for the EJ, as well as technical support, and 1 hour of remote tuning assistance to get you up and running and driveable to your local dyno shop or on the street tuning either professionally or personally. The tuning software is completely free and there are no licensing or other fees associated with the software. EVER! You can freely download the latest version from the LINK website anytime even if you don't own a LINK ECU. The software is very user friendly and has amazing documentation - right clicking on just about anything brings up a help window. Tired of those expensive MAF sensors? Throw it away forever. LINK can run speed density, or use any MAF from thousands of other newer vehicles - frequency MAF from an LS? No problem. Throttle body not large enough? Bad TPS? No problem - adapt a newer model. You can change any sensor to anything you like from any make and model supported in the software. Just pull from your choice of car in the junk yard and change a few ECU settings. NO LIMITATIONS. Tired of the limitations of the OBD-I factory ECU? The LINK ECU package with included MAP sensor, XS Loom, basemaps, and remote tuning assistance are $1499 Here's a Dyno sheet from our shop's 1991 Legacy Sport Sedan. This car is 100% stock with only 3" turbo-back exhaust. Factory rated at 165 crank HP on 8 psi. This is @ 16 psi with a LINK ECU, and redline bumped up to 7200: 176.11 AWHP, and 196.17 AWTQ. Corrected for drivetrain losses that's about 210 crank HP from the stock EJ22T with only exhaust mods. Please feel free to contact me either here, or through facebook or email for any questions, etc. GD

We use copper washers. They are reusable. And cheaper. https://www.buyautosupply.com/products/bas03546-m20-copper-drain-plug-gasket.html As stated, you CANNOT reuse the factory crush washer. They are designed with a bubble that conforms only once and then must be thrown away. If you use them they will generally leak or if not they require much more torque than they should which can damage the pan. The copper washers will conform half a dozen times. After which you replace them. They can be annealed if you absolutely must by heating to cherry red and allowing to air cool. GD

It can be done, but I would recommend cutting in the middle, turning the OD down to match some seamless heavy-wall tubing with some plug-welding holes pre-drilled in it. Press it into the sleeve with a .001" interference fit then weld up the ends and all the plugs. You should keep the splined ends wrapped in a wet rag to prevent them from losing their heat treat. GD

Question - why in the world would you buy this heap of rust if you "don't know a thing about cars"? This is a terrible vehicle to start with. Parts are impossible to find, and I wouldn't characterize these as particularly simple to work on - 80's fuel injection being a terrible introduction to fuel systems. That said - these suffered from a pretty terrible wiring design flaw - they stuck the ECU in the trunk and so you have a LOT of wiring running to the engine through the door sills, etc. Subaru's wiring is not particularly resistant to moisture and their idea of a crimp splice (which is typically not shown in the diagrams at all, let alone a location for it) is a copper ferrule wrapped in a piece of rubber and then taped up. They tend to turn to green puss and are ENTIRELY hidden inside the harness, not listed in the diagrams, and can be a HUGE nightmare to track down. GD

I believe it's part of the phone app, or you can buy an actual key ring remote also if you would like one. I don't think there is any hardware that you have to buy but I'm not completely 100% familiar with this aspect of 2019's being I own an independent shop and don't see much of the newest models. GD

You subscribe to starlink and use the phone app. Aftermarket systems will not work due to the level of integration and key encryption Subaru uses. Welcome to the 21st century. Subaru doesn't want you being able to buy things like this from other sources. None of the auto manufacturers do. GD

You will have to get the core from Subaru if there are any available still, or have it repaired or re-cored. This is pretty much standard practice for 80's and many older vehicles at this point. I had a brass/copper unit re-cored for my 86 Trans Am and the cost was about $175. GD

In my opinion the way to do it would be to forget about the factory EZ30 harness and all the codes you will fight trying to swap it to a 96. Cut it on the body side of the bulkhead manifold harness plugs and wire up a LINK ECU to it. You can get a LINK and wire-in harness tor about $1500 and they have the trigger setup already programmed and they just work so well and are easy to tune. But if you aren't doing it yourself, it's going to cost far more than just buying a low mileage H6 Outback that already has this engine. GD

Limited budget simply isn't going to get the job done. Installing a 3.0 or a turbo engine is a MASSIVE undertaking and not being a mechanic is the end of this discussion. No one is going to do this for you for under $10,000 parts and labor. Last quote I did for a 90's era Antique to a 2.0 turbo swap was ~$16,000. You're simply living in a fantasy world thinking you can get more than about 135 AWHP from that vehicle.... and that's if you install a 25D. The stock engine makes about 110 to the wheels. GD

You're confused - the sensors you are talking about cleaning are the cam and crank sensors - the O2 sensor is the exhaust. GD

I've never tried. It's not uncommon for us to replace entire sections of supply line with nylon braided AN lines for higher volume applications. Mitsubishi EVO's have small feed/return lines and need to be upgraded at about 500 WHP or so. Look at the kits for this - they use braided AN hose for the supply and use the old supply as the return. Armored hose, properly installed and secured with grommets where needed, is perfectly acceptable in our opinion. GD

Yes - please just do as Subaru requests and put ATF in it. PS fluid is for Honda's. GD