GeneralDisorder

On the inboard side the seal rides against the outer joint cup, and on the outboard side it rides on the disc brake hub (the splined part that you slide over the axle splines). It does not touch the actual axle shaft on either side. You probably just haven't realized yet that when you reinstall the hub the space you see now is where the seal surface of the hub will be. You *have* removed the axle in order to replace the inner seals right? Just replacing the outer seals is not very effective. It is usually the inner's that fail. GD

Then shorten the EA82 tie-rods and re-thread them. Easily done with a vice and a die. Check some of the tool dealer's for a proper sized die (being metric it might be a bit obscure). GD

No - there were also Loyale Turbo wagons. I've seen a couple. Don't know about sedan's... GD

They were all turbo as far as I know. Push-button 5 speed's and automatic's I believe. They did not come with the FT4WD D/R w/locker that the RX had. I don't believe they were discontinued because they ran out of RX parts - they were discontinued because their "function" was replaced by the 91 Legacy SS - which became their rally platform till '93 when the Impreza came out.

They were only made in '90 GD

Just change the whole tie rod to an EA81 inner tie rod. They thread on the same and the overall length of the rack's are the same. GD

There is not a seperate coupler really on the 4 speed's like there is on the 5's. Tap the hole's in the sleeve and the shift rod and run a bolt through both of them. I made a post about it at one point - do a search. GD

It is likely fine. The knocking you heard was cylinder detonation due to excessive temperatures. I had the exact same thing happen once about 100 miles after doing a HG job - I had no choice but to drive it till I got to a freeway exit as there was no place to pull out. By the time I got it parked it would only go about 15 MPH under full throttle. I replaced the hose, filled it with coolant, and ran the engine for another 20,000 miles before I pulled it for an overhaul. It suffered seemingly no damage at all - fortunately these engines are almost as much oil and air cooled as they are water cooled so to some extent the oil will dissipate the heat from the bearing surfaces and the block being aluminum helps to dissipate it as well. If it had been an EA82 you would be doing HG's almost for certain. This is exactly why I avoid that engine. GD

Heater core hose will not withstand motor oil and gasses. If you need specific types of hose, you need to call someone that does exclusively hoses and fittings. Automotive parts places aren't going to have specialty hose types. You need high temp/oil rated hose for PCV. GD

Yeah - they are still around as far as I know. They do all kinds of stuff besides distributors. Someone I work with recently mentioned them in reference to some DC motors I think... http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

They were not imported to the US. AUS got them and probably parts of Europe. First touring wagon body for the US market was '89 GD

Nowhere - they are no longer manufactured. You could try the dealer, but your results may vary. Have it rebuilt. GD

What do you mean? Your choices are EA81, EA82, or EJ22 if you absolutely have to use the Weber. GD

Did you lose the check valve ball from the bottom of the accelerator pump cylinder? It goes under the spring - it's about 1/8" in diameter and made of a nylon (plastic) material. GD

Sell it - IMO. The EJ22's fuel injection is one of it's best features. But you could use the Weber with the EJ22. It requires a custom manifold and a Ford Escort distributor (runs off the back of the passenger head). It's been done - do a search. GD

You can just bring them a pipe (cut long) and tell them you need it bent at an angle of X degrees. Then you trim either end and weld the sucker on or have a friend with a welder do it. Exhaust is just tubing - no more, no less. It's not rocket science to replace a bad section of pipe. Screw all the exhaust shops. I would rather do it myself - they charge WAY too much for what they do. And have you seen a lot of these guy's idea of a weld?!? My grandmother could run a bead better from her power chair. GD

I am partial to the Korean war era colors - straight OD green with a white (or red ) star. Even when I was in the Army (joined in '98), we still had a few Korean era trucks in service that you could faintly see the outline of the white star on the side under the modern camo paint they wear now. The digital is also interesting but difficult to create with paint. I hate to say it, but the boat camo should stay on boats.... it IS cool, but putting it on a car defeats the purpose of the design, and with camo paint in general - the whole point is "function before beauty" - I think the concept is rendered baseless when used for the wrong type of vehicle like that. And I don't think it would be wise to try to "confuse" other driver's about the direction you are traveling - probably right up there with dip-chromeing an entire car. GD

Depends - EA82's came in carb, throttle body injection, multi-port injection, and multi-port injected turbo models. The carb versions (as well as the throttle body versions if you use a carb manifold) will accept Weber's. If you want to install it in an EA81 body then you will have to notch the drivers side frame rail as the engine is quite a bit wider (forget about taking the heads off with it in the car). The notch is needed to clear the rear of the valve cover on the driver's side as that bank of cylinders is just a bit farther toward the rear. You will also have to move the hill holder and cut down one of the master cylinder bleeder screws in order to clear the distributor. It can be done, but for the effort it's not worth the 10 HP. If you go with the throttle body injection retrofit and just happen to have an extra EA82 laying around (such as I did) then it makes an additional 17 HP over the EA81 and has increased driveability due to the injection..... it's a tough call with EJ22's being so cheap and a lot of folks making adaptor plate's availible to the community. For about the same amount of work that gets you 17 HP with the SPFI EA82 you can get 62 HP with the EJ22 swap - better and more reliable engine with increased fuel effeciency AND no notching of the frame rail or moving of the HH - the EJ engines are narrower than the EA82. GD

If it's a lifter you are safe to drive it - they are merely annoying. The causes can be various but in no case will it harm the engine in any major way. If it's a timing belt compoenent you could potentially snap the belt. Replacing the failed component and the belt would fix it though. These aren't interferance engines so you can't hurt them with a belt breakage. GD

I'll almost gaurantee it's not a rod. Subaru rod bearing failures are very rare. When they do occur they blow though the top of the block as it is relatively thin aluminium. It sounds like you have a lifter noise or something going south in one of the timing belt tensioners or idler. I don't live far from your work but I can't get over there today. GD

Green connectors should be connected for timing adjustment. Timing is set to 20 degrees BTDC. GD

You can always just cut off the bolt heads and replace them. The flange will seperate without the bolts holding it. I've had to do that even here in the PNW. GD

Nope - power brakes were used starting in the 70's.... possibly all the way back to the introduction of the EA series. GD

So lose the extra cat, and have someone with a bender put a slight bend in the replacement pipe. Cut the flange off the old cat and go with a straight section for that whole mess. If you want a cat - buy a $50 generic unit off ebay and add that to the mix. GD

The pump and reservoir and such are located under the driver's side fender I beleive..... GD