GeneralDisorder

I'll revise what's above with the correct info: EA81's with AC have two electric cooling fans. One only comes on with the compressor. EA81T's all have AC, and they have the same mechanical cooling fan as the EA82's have and the same primary electric fan as any other EA81. EA82(T)'s with AC have one electric fan and one mechanical fan. Non AC cars have an electric fan only.\ I *beleive* that EA71 cars with AC had a belt-driven mechanical fan that was not attached to the water pump. Someone in the historic section would know. GD

Engines don't just "stop" on the marks when you turn them off . YOU have to rotate it till the valve timing marks are lined up with the pointer on the bell-housing and THEN check the marks on the cams. GD

Head over to the "wanted" forum. You should start looking for a factory service manual on ebay and on here. There really aren't many good books on the subject. Depending on how knowledgable you are with mechanical subjects there is a (now out of print) book called "how to keep your Subaru alive". There are PDF copies floating around you could ask about as well. Best bet is the wanted forum. Being in NY you are probably going to have to ship one in from the west coast as this is the only place you will find a plentiful supply of good used parts and sheet metal. Only other EA81 seats without modifications. If you want decent seats get a set from a Legacy and modify them to fit. You will need a non-broken EA81 rail set and then you will have to make adaptor brackets to fit them. There are some other makes models that will fit with some modifications as well. Do a search on the Subject. Personally I usually try to find a set of decent EA82 seats and I weld adaptor brackets to the bottom of them and bolt the EA81 rails on. Works for me anyway and more comfortable than the EA81 seats. I go for the all-fabric ones and I steam clean them. GD

No the ring nut holds in the bearing. Just pound out the stub shaft like you would any EA front axle. GD

If you want to lift something, get an EA81 hatch. EA82's are not well suited to lifting. GD

Pound the stub out of the bearings and chuck it in a vice. Then you can get real heat on it. Get it cherry red with a nice big rosebud and it will fall off. You need to apply heat FAST so only the cup expands and not the stub-shaft with it. GD

It doesn't "just vary" - it is there on all models with AC. GD

'85 wagon would be an EA82 1.8 Liter (overhead cam with timing belts). It will be carbed (bad), MPFI (rare - not bad, but "difficult" due to parts availibility), or MPFI Turbo (really, really bad). Throttle body injection (prefered to all of those I just listed) was not introduced till '86. 5 speed's were standard if it's a manual. It could be a 5 speed 2WD, a 5 speed dual-range, or a 5 speed push-button single range. Or it could be a 3 speed Automatic (2WD or 4WD) (bad). '85's are a poor year to choose in the EA82's. If you must have an EA82, get an '88 or '89 GL with the 5 speed dual-range. GD

I would check to see if that cam still turns. That looks like major mechanical failure of some kind. If it still turns I would be looking real close at everything and taking the valve cover off etc. That's highly unusual - I would guess no one here has ever seen that failure mode. Flat blade screwdriver between two the of the 10mm mounting bolts will hold it while you loosen each one. Just loosen then - don't take them off as you go so you can use the loose nuts to hold the pulley in the aforementioned fashion for all of them. Then you should be able to remove them by hand and pull off the fan and the pulley. GD

You just make some adaptors from flat-bar, weld them to the EA82 rails and then bolt the new "adaptor rail" to the seat of your choice. It's not that difficult. GD

A simple right angle screwdriver will remove it. As are included in most sets these days. The IAC is likely not your problem though. Hessitation like that can be a lot of things with an automatic. Last time I dealt with one it was a stretched timing belt. Run a d-check and see if you pull any codes. GD

It must have had a blockage. My Brat runs 21 psi with the original return line and I know of others that are the same. GD

There *are* some easy-out type products that do work. Especially on larger stuff - good examples are broken off pipe nipple threads - they work excelent in that application. These are the style I'm talking about: And you HAVE to buy high quality ones. The cheap ones will break every time - as grossgary says. Mostly the useful ones are in the top row in that picture. Also the left-hand drill bits will often spin a broken bolt out just drilling the hole in them. GD

At this point I think your best bet is to drill it oversized and heli-coil it. If you hadn't done all that drilling and chiseling you could have got it out by welding a nut to it and working it out. Sometimes takes half a dozen tries but it's by far the easiest way to do it. GD

http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156 GD

If it's a 2WD it could be - I thought the 4EAT was only on the FT4WD models. I would stay FAR, FAR away from any EA82T with an automatic - especially the 3AT. That's a serious recipe for disaster. GD

All the 4WD manual's were 4 speed's in the EA81 era. It really doesn't make any difference from a regular driving perspective as they are ultimately geared the same on the top end. There's a lot of reasons to prefer the 5 speed, but I drive a 4 speed daily right now and it's no big deal. The conversion is straightforward - there's a member here that makes a custom transmission cross-member that will bolt it up to the body and then the only issue is changing in the driveline. I have one in my Brat and it works great. Yeah - you may have to look at a few before you find one in decent shape. The LKQ wrecking yards often have "runners" for sale that only need minor repairs to be driveable. There's an 88 GL, 5 speed D/R at the Sherwood yard right now for $550. I'm not one to reccomend an EA82, but it would be an great deal to throw an EA81 in (bolts right up and the car is already setup for fuel injection), or do an EJ22 conversion. Other than that, craigslist is your best bet by far. The last couple deals I've got on there have been great. I bought a '94 Legacy GT (5 speed, raised roof touring model) wagon for $750 from a little old lady - needed a water pump so I did a full timing belt and water pump job on it to the tune of about $200 and a weekend of work. Drove it for another 12,000 without a single issue - drove to Reno and back three times in it. Great deal. More recently (since I'm known as a Subaru nut around here), I was given a '93 Legacy wagon with a bad alternator - $130 later I drove it home. Replaced a damaged fender and door and gave it to my mother. I'm probably into that car about $300 total. She loves it. There's deals out there - just wait and one will happen for you. GD

Probably not. Clear coat's only make things shiny. They get real ugly when they start to flake off. It won't protect it any more than the paint will. Several layers of paint. Then the key is to keep the waxed. Wax will protect the paint and keep them shiny. And it's replaceable. GD

No - the turbo 5 speed is much more like the later WRX tranny. The clutch design makes it very difficult to use an NA tranny with them. The SS was the only Gen 1 Legacy that used the hydraulic pusher-type clutch as found in the later USDM turbo cars. Final drive ratio is 3.9 on the SS. GD

That would be a head job - so yes it can. GD

It won't foul the cat - it just won't work as well. Newer cat's don't require this extra oxygen supply like the old cat's in the 80's did. Biggest problem with the ASV's is down the road when the reed valve fails. Better to block them, gut the stock cat, and install a $50 aftermarket cat if you need one. Besides that - being you have the feedback ASV, it's probably vacuum actuated and isn't even doing anything without a vacuum signal to it's diaphram. GD

And that's an ER27 in the larger engine bay of the EA82. An EG33 in the tiny bay of the EA81 is a shoehorn from hell. Might not even have a grill. I'm not entirely sure it would even clear the frame rails. GD

Here's a spot about the Justy LSR. http://jalopnik.com/252682/super-salty-123-mph-subaru-justy The HP is variously reported - they claim 99 in that bit but on the article we used to have posted on the "main" USMB page it was stated as 120..... at 11,900 RPM IIRC. 40mm Mikuni's and a hot cam. They claim it even would idle.... barely. It ran up around 125 MPH. Held the land speed reccord for the 1.0 liter class for a very long time. GD

There are good reasons to do some of these things, but they were not well implemented with the EA82. The Justy engine is an excelent design - it does have a weak oil pump but other than that it's not bad at all. It's a 9 valve engine and has amazing performance for it's small size. The same performance as an EA71 (1.6) from a 1.2 liter. And the CVT was bad, but many, many Justy's were built with 5 speed's in both 2WD and 4WD. Subaru built a Justy for Bonneville with 120 HP.... from a 1.0 liter. You have to appreciate the Justy for what it was - an inexpensive, highly economical compact. Can you point out any other compacts with available 4WD and the ability to get 40 MPG or more? GD

Unscrew the ASV valve from the steel pipe and drop in a quarter. Or you can weld up the hole in the spacer under the head. As for the vacuum advance - just buy a new section of silicone vacuum line. It will stretch to accomidate the larger nipple and you won't need an adaptor. GD