GeneralDisorder

I've seen the adjustable rear struts on many early 4WD's - 85 and 86 for sure. Probably 87 as well. It's hard to say for sure as some have been replaced over the years with aftermarket that aren't adjustable. I doubt the Loyale's had them. GD

Ok - so what we need is what I asked for in my first post. There is (unfortunately!) no such thing as a "stock" Weber. They didn't come stock on anything - they are not DOT approved. And even if they did they are designed for engines between 1.2 and 2.8 litres - each engine is going to have different jetting requirements. So - what is it "set up" (better than saying "stock) for? You shouldn't need a regulator unless the pressure is too high which is unlikely. But you never know till you test it. Invest $10 in a gauge. GD

They all should interchange. The differences are likely pretty small - except of course for the air suspention car's. I'm not sure of the EA82's ever came with adjustable front struts for the 4WD's, but that might be a difference as well. Primarily the differences in height are due to the springs not the struts. GD

The carb base heater (coolant passage) is purely ancillery. Unfortunately the real reason coolant runs through the intake is that this is a primary coolant cross-over passage from head-to-head. You can't eliminate any of the coolant lines. The one under the intake that goes to the block should be replaced with some new hose if it's hard and brittle. GD

Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter? Test both windings in the coil - I'm curious to see if you have weak spark at all. Next you should check that the throttle posistion sensor sweeps cleanly when you actuate it by hand - the readings should be smooth. Clean the MAF with some brake cleaner - the wires may be dirty. What would really help is if you could put a wideband O2 sensor on it and see if you are getting a lean condition. Could be a bad injector or something. Sounds likely that you have a fuel or ignition problem but it's very hard to troubleshoot over the internet. You might have to invest in some tools to figure this one out unfortunately. GD

We need more info: 1. What is your jetting? 2. What is your fuel pressure? 3. Is the choke opening? etc. GD

Problems with your methodology: 1. You haven't taken temp readings with a known accurate shop gauge to verify anything. 2. You haven't verified the exact opening temperature of your thermostat. Boiling water will test if it actually does open, but you still don't know the upper and lower bounds of when it begins to open and is fully opened. 3. You haven't verified the resistance vs. temperature of the coolant temp sensors you tried, nor have you checked that the gauge reads accurately when given a known resistance value in place of the sensor. If you did each of these tests you would then have the knowledge to take appropriate corrective action if any is neccesary. Till then you are just spinning you wheels. GD

Don't know how much you have read about what you are doing but I'll impart what I've learned. Use ONLY intake manifold gaskets from the dealer. They are built like mini-head gaskets - graphite impregnated metal. Use new bolts - zinc coated. Chase the threads in the block with a tap. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs. Use anti-sieze obviously. GD

No press is required - just drive the axle shaft out of the bearings with a dead blow. If the fit is more than a dead-blow can handle then I'll thread the nut on and use a brass hammer. Just don't hit it without the nut in place and flush with the shaft or you will damage the threads. *If* you were going to use a press - there is no "special" press involved. It's just a normal shop press - you have to properly block up the knuckle so the press can get a straight shot at the axle but that's pretty easy with some peices of wood. We keep 1x, 2x, and 4x around in various lengths for such purposes. I have never done it though because I never remove the knuckle from the car - too much hassle. Just drive out the axle and pull the new one in. The fitment is quite loose actually. Often they slip in by hand. GD

You are correct on all accounts. The single prong CTS will work fine to run your gauge. GD

Head gaskets are blown, heads may be cracked. Engine is probably junk at this point unless it's completely torn down.... even then it might not be worth the time. Once they have been overheated a few times it becomes unlikely that just an "upper end" job will cure all their problems. Often the high mileage engines have worn out rod bearings and scored cylinder walls due to their advanced age and fixing them is really an excersize in futility unless you go whole-hog and tear them down for a complete overhaul. Read up on engine theory, get yourself a decent set of tools, an engine hoist and a stand - pull it out and tear it down. Best way to learn by far. It may be junk but at least you can learn something from it. Won't really be worth any less without the engine at this point. Hard to come by that kind of learning without sacrificing one or two vehicles in the beginning. GD

Yeah - you want the 90 amp unit. They used them from like 86 to the early 90's I think. '88 is a safe bet for getting the right one. You do have to change the pully to a v-belt pulley. Not that hard though. Very much like changing the pulley on the XT6 alt's but the fit is a direct bolt-in for your original. Other than changing the pulley it should basically bolt right up. GD

That's true but it doesn't make the plumbing any easier. First you have to understand what's going on between the turbo and the throttle body in order to make changes to that connection. The knowledge needs to happen first. GD

One of a couple things is happening - your radiator doesn't have enough flow, your head gaskets are leaking, the cooling system has air bubbles in it, or has leaks and can't get up to pressure. The AC was designed to run with on the hottest day with the engine only idleing. Something isn't right with the coolin system - fix it right or pay the eventual consequences of destroying that engine. GD

Replace your radiator and flush the system. It's not rejecting enough heat and it's being saturated by the AC evaporator core. GD

Completely different head design. The EA81's used siamesed intake and exhaust ports. They also used studs rather than bolts to hold them on. The entire problem with the EA82's is the head casting design, the head/block interface and the bolts. The bolts are one of the biggest problems for them holding head gaskets - that was done solely so replacing the head gaskets would be possible without pulling the engine. It is so wide with the timing belt arrangment that it would have been impossible to swap the head out without using bolts. It's the only Subaru engine that ever did that - all the EA81's and earlier used studs, and so do the EJ's. The timing belts are somewhat ancillery, but aren't a great point either. They just generally make a poor design suck that much harder. GD

Heh. I don't mind helping the good folks around here. Thus my group buy of yield in the OT forum recently. I try to help any locals when they need it around here. And I just find it really sad when a good member here has a pretty crappy ride just because that's what life dealt them. People are nearly throwing them away out here and I don't want them either.... may as well save one and send it east. I just have a short fuse for stupidity. GD

Actually the most direct swap replacement would be an alt for a mid-80's Nissan Maxima. They are essentially the same case as the stock Subaru alt but are 90 amps and internally regulated. If you want them to be a one-wire you just route the sensor wire back to the output lug with a short bit of wire and presto - one wire alt. GD

If you have access to the underside of the car the engine will stay hanging from the transmission cross-member and the firewall support while you pull the engine cross-member. It's not fun, but it's doable. Last one I pulled they charged me like $70 for it. GD

You can probably find one given some time and a few trips to the yards considering your location. That's where I've got all my Turbo PS systems. Takes about 2 hours to pull one though so be prepared. And the cross-member bolts are often a pain - 1/2" breaker bar time. GD

There's a runner/driver at my local yard right now for $550. 88 GL with D/R. Could probably walk away with it for $400 cash. They are VERY plentiful. Less than the cost of a nice flat-screen TV..... I like to have a fleet so I have backups and parts GD

I've beeen working on a fix for them. I may make new handles out of some steel sqaure tubeing. GD

I would sugest the junk yard but you won't find the gas struts that don't leak. Best bet is to buy a new pair. Try www.rockauto.com Be careful with the side-window latches. They break easily and are near impossible to find. Otherwise - that's a fine example of a hatch and very low mileage. The EA81's are routinely good for 300k with good maintenance. GD

Well - there's always next year. I understand. We have all been there. If you need any parts let me know - I'll do what I can. GD

I am only that guy about half the time anymore. Still drive my '83 hatch several days a week and it's definately a "beater with a heater". Rest of the time I'm in the sweeet '91 SS. I love my Turbo! GD