GeneralDisorder

It requires some special tools to assemble them. They are a real pain the butt. You have to apply pressure while turning them - a modified C clamp sort of affair. The parking brake mechanism makes them difficult to assemble due to the spring pressure. I would look for a good used one that only needs a boot. GD

That's not an '83. '85 or newer by the looks of it. Probably '85 given the grill style. Carbed EA82 2WD 5 speed?..... Maybe worth it for the low mileage engine. Probably $100. No other redeeming qualities. GD

They aren't popular enough for parts like that. You can of course get replacement stock exhaust and intake parts at the dealer. Anything else would need to be custom. No demand for non-turbo EJ22 aftermarket support. You won't gain much from either one anyway. If you want power swap it out to an EJ20 Turbo (WRX) or similar newer engine. GD

There's an o-ring on the distributor shaft. They don't usually leak though. GD

Test the coil and make sure there's power to it while cranking. It would be a Hitachi distributor - all Brat's are 4WD and that's the determining factor. GD

Replace the ball joints as well. GD

Not at all. Every Legacy I've owned so far has had warped rotor's to some extent - even my 91 SS which uses the 274mm rotors of the later 2.5GT's were severely warped. People use their brakes instead of dropping down a gear around here. Used to have some Ford Aerostar's - they would always warp after a time. It's a known problem. I've never had a warped set on an EA vehicle though. GD

The ND units don't tollerate much shaft play at all. I would send it to philbin manufacturing and have new bushings installed and the vac advance can rebuilt with a new rubber diaphram. Replace your existing distributor with it and use your old one as the spare. The cost to have it rebuilt is under $100. GD

Couple months ago I got a free '93 legacy with a bad alternator. Clean, straight, automatic. Gave it to my mom. Last EA82 I bought was an 86 4WD D/R sedan. I drove it home for $100 - it had a few mechanical issues but nothing that prevented it from being driven long distances in the hot sun - I drove it from Portland to Yakima and back in the summer. Just to give you an idea. I'm cheap though and I'll just wait for a deal that suits me. Problem is - people like us are your only market. With overheating problems like that you aren't going to attract buyers that are looking for reliable transportation and are willing to pay a little bit to get it. If you want a few dimes to rub together for this thing you need to fix it first. GD

I have never noticed a difference in spline length - it may simply be a manufactureing issue and not a difference that matters. The shorter axles are very likely EA81 units. Obviously being shorter they will not fit your car. Take them back. GD

The West Coast Subaru Show is every year around August. There will be threads about it all over this forum soon I'm sure. GD

Livin the dream ya know. I work on industrial machinery - working on the millwright skills that I always valued your assitance with. Still in Portland yeah. Got a house and a lawn now so that's pretty cool. I got an '83 hatch that's going to go BIG as soon as I get settled in the house and setup my metal working area. Need to get a bigger welder - I have a sweet compressor and bandsaw setup so far. Doing research and looking for deals on a Miller. Also thinking of building my own TIG setup. If you are ever up this way hit me up on here. Still have the wagon - keeping it as a backup and loaner wheeling rig. GD

"at rest" is not a meaningful measurement. You would have to measure them fully compressed. Other than compressed length, you can't easily tell the EA81 and EA82 axles apart. If you compress them you might find you actually have the same axles. Otherwise follow Twitch's guidelines - he is correct on the EA81's having shorter axles. GD

T into the fuel line with a 0 to 5 psi gauge. Put it where you can see it while driving. GD

There may be differen't offsets for pug rims out there. I would ask someone at a tire/wheel place or on a pug forum or something. GD

Put a dial indicator on the rotor and find out for sure. GD

Yep - that's correct. Just got home from work and checked on my Hatch. How's your hatch comming? GD

Depends on the engine you are putting it on - what are you planning to do with it? This system is designed for an MPFI application using a TPS voltage trigger. The fuel pressure can be adjusted via an aftermarket regulator if the stock unit isn't compatible. There is nothing wrong with nitrous if it's used properly. Unfortunately it often is not. GD

This is becoming intollerable that we can't get it figured out. I'm not on the scene so I'm at a disadvantage. Ok - lets assume for the moment that your issue IS fuel and not ignition. I propose that you add some new gauges. First though have you performed a comp. test? It would be nice to know that all your cylinders are similar at least. I would like to see manifold vacuum and fuel pressure. More to the point though I would like to see if there is any changes in either one as you approach the "problem" area of the power band. As for the coil resistance - if you have swapped the coil to an MSD then any numbers I could give you wouldn't match your coil anyway. But the idea is that you test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings to insure that your coil isn't shorted internally. It's usually less than 10 ohms on one side, and around 10,000 to 15,000 on the other. You test between the two posts (postitive and negative), and between either post and the coil tower. GD

Cross-member's might indeed be the same. I can't remember. I converted an EA81 to 4WD and another from 4WD to 2WD using the parts - basically I swapped the entire drive trains on 2 wagons except for the engine. That was probably 6 or 7 years ago though. GD

Spray everything you can find down with WD-40, put a big fan on the engine bay and wait. Something is wet. It will dry and all will be right. Sometimes we have to wait several days for open-frame electric motors to dry out after pressure washing at work. Airflow is your friend. It will take weeks to dry out if you don't get a fan on it. GD

Lets see here..... Have you checked: 1. Fuel pressure? 2. Ran it with/without the return line? 3. Plug gap? 4. Replaced the plug wires? 5. Any play (side to side) in the disty shaft? 6. Primary and secondary coil winding resistance? It does sound, from your description, that it's either super lean, or you have an ignition issue causeing it to not fire under load. I've seen similar problems from poorly gapped plugs but you say they are ok. I'm wondering if you have a weak spark.... GD

They are totally easy. Half any hour no problem. EA82's use a plastic block mounted to the cable sheath with two bolts that secure it to the pedal assembly. GD

It's only somewhat accurate, and only for the front axles. To unhook the axles from the tranmission, you drive out the roll pin, pull the inner control arm bolts and unbolt the sway bar from the control arm GD